How To Knit A Market String Bag
There is something deeply satisfying about walking through a farmers market or grocery store with a bag you made yourself. A knitted market string bag is one of those projects that sits right at the intersection of practical and beautiful — it stretches to hold heavy vegetables, collapses to nothing when empty, and looks charming hanging from a hook in your kitchen. If you have been wanting to try this project but are not sure where to start, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing your yarn to casting off the final stitch.
This pattern is designed for knitters who have the basics down — you should be comfortable with casting on, knitting, purling, and basic increases and decreases. If you are a complete beginner, you might want to work through a dishcloth or two first, but if you can knit in the round and you know what a yarn over is, you are ready for this project. The bag works up faster than you might expect, and the open mesh construction means you are not spending hours on dense fabric.
What You Will Need
Before you cast on a single stitch, gather everything together. There is nothing more frustrating than getting partway through a project and realizing you are missing a key tool.
Yarn: Cotton is the traditional choice for a market bag, and for good reason. It is strong, washable, holds its shape after repeated use, and does not stretch out permanently the way acrylic can. Look for a smooth, tightly plied cotton in a worsted or DK weight. A single skein of 200 to 250 yards in worsted weight will be enough for a standard-sized bag. Natural linen or a cotton-linen blend also works beautifully and adds a lovely texture. Avoid anything too fuzzy or fluffy — the open mesh of a string bag will not show off a halo yarn well, and the fibers can catch on produce or packaging.
Needles: You will need a set of US size 7 (4.5mm) circular needles in a 16-inch or 24-inch length, or a set of double-pointed needles if you prefer. The gauge is intentionally loose for this project because you want the mesh to be open and stretchy. Many knitters go up one needle size from what the yarn label recommends.
Additional tools: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (at least 8, preferably in two colors to distinguish your beginning-of-round marker from the others), and a tape measure. Optional but handy: a row counter or a small notebook to keep track of your rounds.
Understanding the Pattern Construction
This bag is worked entirely in the round from the bottom up. You start by casting on a small number of stitches for the base, increase outward in a hexagonal or circular shape to form the flat bottom of the bag, then work straight up the sides in a simple mesh pattern. The handles are created at the top using a combination of bind-offs and a small I-cord or twisted cord.
The mesh stitch used here is a simple yarn-over, knit-two-together repeat. It creates a lacy, open fabric that is elastic enough to hold a large watermelon one week and nothing but a bunch of herbs the next. The pattern is deeply intuitive once you get going — after the first few rounds, your hands will fall into the rhythm without you needing to think too hard.
Gauge
Gauge matters somewhat less for a bag than it does for a sweater, since you are not trying to fit a human body. That said, working too tightly will give you a bag that barely stretches and feels stiff, while working too loosely might leave gaps so large that small items fall through. Aim for approximately 16 stitches and 22 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch with your chosen yarn and needles.
Make a small swatch if you want to be precise, or simply cast on and check after the first few rounds. You can easily adjust needle size from there.
The Pattern
Finished Measurements
The finished bag measures approximately 12 inches wide and 14 inches deep when not stretched, and will expand significantly when loaded. The handles are each about 10 inches long.
The Base
Cast on 8 stitches. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist, and place a beginning-of-round marker.
Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2 (increase round): Knit 1, yarn over to the end of the round. You will have 16 stitches.
Round 3: Knit all stitches.
Round 4: Knit 2, yarn over to the end of the round. You will have 24 stitches.
Round 5: Knit all stitches.
Round 6: Knit 3, yarn over to the end of the round. You will have 32 stitches.
Continue in this pattern, adding one extra knit stitch before each yarn over every other round, until you have completed the following increase rounds and have 80 stitches total. The odd-numbered rounds between each increase round are plain knit rounds.
Once you reach 80 stitches, your base should measure roughly 5 to 6 inches in diameter. If you want a larger bag, continue the increases a few more rounds.
Transitioning to the Sides
At this point you stop increasing and begin working straight upward. This is where the mesh pattern begins.
Setup round: Place stitch markers every 10 stitches around if you would like to help yourself track the mesh repeats, though this is optional once you get comfortable with the rhythm.
Mesh round: Yarn over, knit 2 together to the end of the round.
Repeat this mesh round for every round until the bag measures approximately 12 to 13 inches from the base. Because every stitch is being worked as part of a yarn-over-knit-two-together pair, the stitch count stays consistent at 80 stitches throughout this section. The fabric will bias slightly as you work — this is normal for this kind of mesh and will block out easily.
Work this section until the bag feels deep enough for your purposes. A good market bag wants to be at least 12 inches deep so things do not tumble out, but if you are making it primarily for lighter items like bread or flowers, you might stop at 10 inches.
The Top Band
Once the bag reaches your desired depth, it is time to add a stabilizing band at the top before making the handles. This prevents the top edge from flopping around and gives the handles something sturdy to attach to.
Rounds 1 through 4: Knit every round (plain stockinette in the round, which creates a smooth band).
You can also work these four rounds as a 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2 to the end of each round) for a slightly more textured finish that grips the opening a bit. Either works well.
Creating the Handles
Now comes the part that makes the bag truly functional. You will create two handles, positioned on opposite sides of the bag.
Divide your 80 stitches into two halves of 40 stitches each. You will work the handles as two separate straps.
Bind off for handle opening: Knit to the center of the first half (20 stitches in), then bind off the next 20 stitches. Knit to the center of the second half (20 stitches in), then bind off the next 20 stitches. At the end of this round you will have 20 live stitches on each side of each handle opening — 40 total, with two gaps where you bound off.
Handle strap (work flat): Rejoin your yarn and work back and forth on the 20 stitches of the first strap section.
Row 1: Knit to the end.
Row 2: Purl to the end.
Repeat these two rows (stockinette worked flat) until the strap measures 10 to 12 inches, or whatever length feels comfortable looped over a shoulder or carried in the hand. Many people prefer a slightly longer strap — around 12 inches — so the bag hangs at a comfortable hip level.
Once you reach your desired strap length, decrease for the join: knit 2 together across the row until you have 10 stitches remaining, then use a three-needle bind-off or graft the strap stitches to the 20 bound-off stitches on the opposite side of the same handle opening to form a complete loop.
Repeat for the second strap.
Alternatively, if you find the worked strap handles too fiddly, you can skip the straps entirely and instead work a simple twisted cord handle. To do this, cut several lengths of yarn about three times your desired handle length, fold them in half, and twist them tightly in one direction before folding in half again and allowing them to twist back on themselves. You will have a sturdy, beautiful cord. Attach one end to each side of the handle opening using your tapestry needle.
Finishing
Weave in all ends carefully. Cotton yarn can be stubborn about staying put, so weave each tail in at least two directions and give them a gentle tug to make sure they are secure.
Wet block the finished bag by soaking it in cool water for about 10 minutes, then pressing out the excess moisture gently in a towel. Lay it flat or shape it over a round object — a bowl or a ball — to help it hold its shape as it dries. Blocking opens up the mesh beautifully and softens the cotton considerably.
Tips For Success
Tension consistency is your friend. Because the mesh pattern is all yarn-overs and decreases, inconsistent tension will be very visible. If you notice your tension tightening when you are tired or distracted, it is worth putting the project down and coming back to it. This is a meditative project that rewards a relaxed, even pace.
Mark your beginning of round clearly. Because every round looks nearly identical in the mesh section, it is easy to lose track of where you are. Use a locking stitch marker or a small piece of contrast yarn to mark the beginning, and check your round count frequently.
Try different yarns for different looks. A natural undyed cotton gives a farmhouse, artisanal look. A bright linen-cotton blend makes something that looks summery and cheerful. A jute twine bag is ultra-rustic and extremely sturdy for heavy produce. Each fiber behaves slightly differently, so your second bag will always come out better than your first.
Make it your own. This is a straightforward pattern, but it lends itself beautifully to personalization. You can add a round or two of a contrasting color at the top band. You can work the base in a different stitch for added texture. You can make the handles longer for a shoulder bag or shorter for a hand carry tote. Because the mesh section has no right or wrong side, you can add a simple embroidered initial or a small patch of contrast color without disrupting the structure.
Caring For Your Market Bag
One of the joys of a cotton knitted bag is how easy it is to maintain. Toss it in the washing machine on a gentle cycle with cold water and mild detergent. Reshape while damp and lay flat to dry. Do not put it in a hot dryer, which can cause cotton to shrink and stiffen. With proper care, a well-knitted cotton market bag will last for years and become softer and more beautiful with each wash.
If you notice any snags or small holes developing at stress points — usually near the handle joins — repair them promptly with a tapestry needle and a short length of matching yarn before they become larger problems.
Why Knit Your Own Bag?
There are practical reasons and personal ones. On the practical side, a handknitted cotton string bag is genuinely useful. It is stronger than most commercially available mesh bags, it breathes well so produce stays fresh, it is machine washable, and it compresses to almost nothing in a pocket or purse. On the personal side, there is something meaningful about showing up at a farmers market with something you made. It starts conversations. It connects you to a long tradition of making useful things by hand. And when someone asks where you got it, you get to say you made it yourself — which never gets old.
This project also makes a wonderful gift. A handmade market bag, especially one made in someone’s favorite color or with a thoughtful personal detail, is the kind of gift people actually use. It is practical, beautiful, and made with care. Paired with a small bunch of flowers or some homemade jam, it becomes something memorable.
Final Thoughts
Knitting a market string bag is one of the most rewarding quick projects you can take on. It teaches you to work in the round, to manage yarn-overs and decreases in a rhythmic repeat, and to think through the simple construction of a functional object from start to finish. By the time you cast off, you will have something genuinely useful, a better intuition for mesh and lace knitting generally, and very likely the urge to cast on another one immediately.
Start with a bright, sturdy cotton in a color that makes you happy. Work slowly enough to enjoy the process. And when it is done, fill it with something good — vegetables from the market, fresh bread from the bakery, a pile of library books — and appreciate what your hands made.
