How to Crochet a Simple Granny Square Bag

There is something deeply satisfying about turning a ball of yarn into something you can actually use every day. The granny square bag sits at that perfect intersection of nostalgic charm and practical function — it is colorful, sturdy, durable, and endlessly customizable. Whether you are a complete beginner who has just learned to chain, or a seasoned crocheter looking for a weekend project that does not demand too much brain power, this tutorial will walk you through everything you need to make your very own granny square bag from start to finish.

This is one of those projects that looks far more complicated than it actually is. Once you understand the basic structure of a granny square, everything else clicks into place naturally. By the end of this post, you will know how to make the squares, join them together, add a lining if you want one, and attach handles so your finished bag is ready to carry to the farmers market, the beach, or wherever your next adventure takes you.

Let us get into it.

What You Will Need

Before you pick up your hook, gather your materials. Having everything ready before you start saves you from having to stop mid-project to hunt something down.

Yarn: For a structured bag that holds its shape, you want a medium-weight yarn, also called worsted weight or category 4 yarn. Cotton yarn is an especially popular choice for bags because it is durable, washable, and has almost no stretch, which means your bag will not sag and lose its shape over time. Acrylic yarn also works beautifully and comes in a nearly infinite range of colors. You will need approximately 200 to 400 yards of yarn depending on how large you want your bag, and you can use one color for a simple look or several colors for a classic multicolored granny square pattern.

Crochet Hook: A 5mm hook (US size H/8) pairs well with worsted weight yarn and gives you a firm, tight fabric that will not let small items fall through. If your tension tends to run loose, drop down to a 4.5mm hook.

Scissors and a yarn needle: You will need scissors to cut your yarn and a blunt-tipped yarn needle to weave in your ends neatly.

Stitch markers: These are optional but helpful for keeping track of your rounds, especially if you are new to working in the round.

Bag handles: You can purchase bamboo, wooden, or plastic ring handles from a craft store or online. Alternatively, you can make your own crocheted handles, or repurpose handles from an old bag. Two handles work best for a classic tote-style bag.

Lining fabric: This is optional, but a simple fabric lining makes your bag more polished and prevents small items from poking through the gaps in the crochet. Half a yard of cotton quilting fabric is more than enough.

Sewing needle and thread: For attaching the lining, if you choose to add one.

Understanding the Granny Square

The granny square is one of the most foundational motifs in crochet. It starts at the center and works outward in rounds, building clusters of double crochet stitches separated by chain spaces. The result is a square with a lacy, open texture and a visible corner structure.

A standard granny square uses the following stitches:

A slip stitch (sl st) to join rounds. A chain (ch) to create the base ring and the spaces between clusters. A double crochet (dc) as the main stitch that builds the fabric.

If you have never done a double crochet before, the technique is straightforward. Yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch or space, yarn over again and pull up a loop (you now have three loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through two loops (two loops remain), yarn over once more and pull through the final two loops. That is one complete double crochet.

How to Make a Classic Granny Square

For this bag, you will need to make eight granny squares of the same size. Four squares will form the front panel, and four will form the back panel, arranged in a two-by-two grid on each side.

Starting Ring: Make a slip knot and chain four. Join with a slip stitch to form a ring. Alternatively, you can use the magic ring technique if you prefer a tighter center with no visible hole.

Round 1: Chain three (this counts as your first double crochet). Work two more double crochets into the center ring. Chain two. Work three double crochets into the ring. Chain two. Repeat this cluster-and-chain sequence two more times so that you have four clusters of three double crochets total, with a chain-two space between each cluster. Join with a slip stitch to the top of your beginning chain-three. You now have a small square with four corners defined by those chain-two spaces. If you are using a new color for the next round, fasten off and join your new yarn in any corner space.

Round 2: Slip stitch or join yarn into any corner chain-two space. Chain three, work two double crochets into that same corner space. Chain two, then work three more double crochets into the same corner space. You have now made one complete corner, which looks like two clusters with a chain-two space between them. Chain one. Move to the next corner and work the same two-cluster-with-chain-two pattern. Chain one between corners. Repeat all the way around until you have completed all four corners and all four chain-one side spaces. Join with a slip stitch to the top of your beginning chain-three.

Round 3: Join your yarn into any corner space. Work the same corner pattern as before — three double crochets, chain two, three double crochets — into each of the four corners. In between corners, on each side, you will now have one chain-one space from the previous round. Work three double crochets into that chain-one space, then chain one before moving on to the next corner. As you add more rounds, the number of three-double-crochet clusters along each side will grow by one for every round you add.

Round 4 and Beyond: Continue in this manner for as many rounds as you need to reach your desired size. For a bag with four squares across each panel, your squares should be roughly six to seven inches across, which typically means working four to five rounds depending on your tension and yarn weight.

When you finish each square, fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming if you plan to join with the slip stitch method, or trim your ends short if you prefer to join as you go.

Choosing Your Color Scheme

Color choice is where you can really make this project your own. The classic granny square bag has a different color for each round — maybe a soft sage green in the center, then a warm rust, then a creamy white for the final round. This multicolor approach is the most traditional look and gives your bag a lively, handcrafted feel.

If you prefer something more modern and minimal, try making all your squares in a single solid color. A deep navy or a rich terracotta in 100% cotton looks sophisticated and contemporary. You could also do a color-blocked approach — all the squares on the front panel in one color family, and the back panel in a contrasting color.

For beginners, keeping to two or three colors makes managing yarn changes simpler. Each time you start a new round, you simply join a new color and fasten off the old one.

Joining Your Granny Squares

Once you have crocheted all eight squares and woven in your ends, it is time to join them into two flat panels. There are a few different methods, and your choice will affect the finished look of the bag.

Whipstitch seam: Hold two squares together with their right sides facing each other. Thread a yarn needle with a length of yarn in your main or accent color and sew through the outermost loops of both squares, working from one corner to the other. This method is simple, sturdy, and produces a neat seam on the right side.

Slip stitch join: With your hook and yarn, insert the hook through both outermost loops of both squares simultaneously and slip stitch across the edge. This creates a visible, raised ridge on the right side of your work that some crocheters love as a design detail.

Single crochet join: Similar to the slip stitch join, but using single crochet instead. This creates a more prominent decorative seam and adds a bit of extra thickness, which can help your bag hold its shape.

Arrange four squares in a two-by-two grid and join them along their shared edges. Repeat for the second set of four squares to create your two panels.

Assembling the Bag

With your two panels complete, hold them together with wrong sides facing each other so that the right side of each panel faces outward. Now join them along three sides — the bottom and both side edges — using your preferred seam method. Leave the top edge open so you have a bag opening.

At this point you have a recognizable bag shape. Turn it right side out if needed and give it a light press with a damp cloth to help the squares lie flat and even.

If you want your bag to have a small rectangular base rather than a flat bottom, you can create a simple foundation: join a strip of two single crochet squares or work a rectangle of single crochet rows directly and sew it to the bottom before joining the side panels. This gives your bag more structure and helps it stand upright on its own.

Adding Handles

There are two easy approaches to handles.

Purchased handles: This is the faster option. Simply fold the top edge of each panel over the straight edge of a handle ring and sew it down on the inside of the bag using a yarn needle and a length of yarn. Make sure you space the handles evenly across the front and back panels.

Crocheted handles: For a fully handmade look, chain a long foundation of about 60 to 70 chains and then work rows of single crochet back and forth until the strip is about an inch wide. Fold it lengthwise and seam the edges together to create a neat rope-like handle. Attach each end of the handle to the inside top edges of the front and back panels, spacing them evenly and sewing securely with a yarn needle.

Crocheted handles tend to stretch slightly over time with heavy use, so if you plan to carry a lot in your bag, purchased wooden or bamboo handles will hold up better in the long run.

Lining Your Bag (Optional but Recommended)

A lining is what takes a granny square bag from a craft project to a genuinely useful everyday accessory. It protects the contents of your bag, prevents small items from slipping through the open stitches, and adds a lovely professional finish.

Cut two rectangles of fabric that match the dimensions of your assembled panels, plus half an inch on all sides for seam allowance. If your joined panel measures eight inches wide and ten inches tall, cut your fabric pieces to nine inches wide and eleven inches tall.

Sew the two fabric pieces together along the bottom and side edges using a sewing machine or by hand with a running stitch, leaving the top open. Trim the corners diagonally to reduce bulk, then press the seams open with an iron.

Fold the top raw edge of the lining down by half an inch toward the wrong side of the fabric and press. Slide the lining inside your crocheted bag with the wrong sides of both the lining and the bag facing each other. Pin the folded top edge of the lining to the inside top edge of the bag, just below where the handles are attached. Hand stitch the lining in place using a whipstitch or a ladder stitch, keeping your stitches small and even so they are not visible from the outside.

Finishing Touches

Once your lining is in place and your handles are secure, weave in any remaining yarn ends using your yarn needle. Give the outside of the bag a light block if needed — simply dampen it gently with a spray bottle and pat it into shape, then allow it to dry flat. This step is especially satisfying with cotton yarn, which relaxes and blooms beautifully when wet.

You can also add a button closure if you want to keep the bag closed. Sew a large button to the center front panel near the top and crochet a small chain loop on the back panel to act as a button loop. Or attach a magnetic snap closure to the lining before you sew it in.

Tips for Getting a Neat, Even Result

Tension is the single biggest factor in how your finished squares look. If your squares are uneven or curling at the edges, try working with a slightly larger hook or consciously relaxing your grip on the yarn. Consistent tension comes with practice, so do not be discouraged if your first square looks different from your fifth.

Count your stitches at the end of each round to make sure you have the right number of clusters and corner spaces before moving on. It is much easier to catch a mistake in round two than to notice it once you are finishing round four.

Block each square individually before joining them. This makes the joining process much easier and ensures your panels lie flat and look tidy.

When choosing yarn for multiple squares, buy all your yarn from the same dye lot if you are using a single color. Yarn from different dye lots can have subtle color differences that become noticeable once the squares are joined.

Final Thoughts

Making a granny square bag is one of those projects where the process itself is just as enjoyable as the finished object. Each round is quick and repetitive in the best way — the kind of rhythmic, meditative work that crochet lovers keep coming back to. And because each square is small and portable, you can easily work on them during a commute, while watching television, or during any spare moment you find throughout the day.

The beauty of this design is that it scales effortlessly. Want a smaller bag? Use two squares per panel instead of four. Want a large market tote? Use six or nine squares per panel and make them larger. You can also experiment with different joining methods, different handle styles, and different yarn textures to create something that is entirely your own.

Once you have made one, you will likely want to make another. That is just how granny squares work — they have a way of multiplying pleasantly.

Happy crocheting.