How to Crochet a Mesh Tote Bag: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Whether you’re heading to the farmers market, the beach, or just running errands around town, a crocheted mesh tote bag is one of those projects that blends practicality with handmade charm. The open mesh design is not only beautiful but also stretchy and surprisingly strong, making it perfect for carrying groceries, books, or anything else you need to tote around. Best of all, this is an accessible project for beginners who have mastered basic stitches and a satisfying quick win for experienced crocheters.

In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know to crochet your own mesh tote bag from scratch, including the materials you’ll need, the stitches used, and a complete pattern with step-by-step instructions. By the end, you’ll have a stylish, eco-friendly bag you’ll be proud to carry everywhere.

Why Crochet a Mesh Tote Bag?

Before diving into the how-to, it’s worth appreciating why this particular project has remained a beloved staple in the crochet community for decades. A mesh tote bag is made using an open lace-style stitch pattern, which creates a lightweight yet sturdy fabric full of small gaps or holes. Those gaps are part of what makes the bag so functional — the design allows air to circulate around produce, makes it easy to see what’s inside the bag at a glance, and gives the structure a natural stretch that accommodates bulky or awkwardly shaped items.

From a crafting perspective, mesh bags are also wonderfully efficient. They use less yarn than solid fabric projects, which means they work up faster and cost less to make. A single skein of cotton yarn is often enough for a full-sized tote, and the repetitive stitch pattern makes the project meditative and enjoyable to work up while watching a movie or chatting with friends.

Crocheted tote bags are also an environmentally conscious choice. Replacing plastic or single-use bags with a reusable cotton tote is a small but meaningful step toward reducing waste, and when you make it yourself, you get the added satisfaction of knowing exactly what went into it.

Materials You’ll Need

Getting started with the right materials makes all the difference. Here’s what you’ll want to gather before casting on your first stitch.

Yarn: The best yarn for a mesh tote bag is 100% cotton. Cotton is durable, washable, and holds its shape beautifully over time. It doesn’t stretch out of control the way acrylic can, and it softens with every wash. Look for a worsted weight (size 4) cotton yarn for a sturdy everyday tote, or use a bulky weight (size 5 or 6) if you want a bag that works up even faster. Some popular choices include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, or any kitchen cotton yarn you have on hand. You’ll need approximately 200 to 300 yards for a medium-sized tote.

Crochet Hook: Match your hook size to your yarn weight. For worsted weight cotton, a 5mm or 5.5mm hook works well. For bulky yarn, try a 6mm or 6.5mm hook. The mesh pattern tends to look best when worked slightly looser than you might for a solid fabric, so if your tension runs tight, consider going up half a hook size.

Scissors and a Tapestry Needle: You’ll need scissors to cut your yarn and a tapestry needle for weaving in ends when the project is complete.

Stitch Markers (Optional): These are helpful for marking the beginning of rounds, especially if you’re new to working in the round.

Stitches and Techniques Used

This pattern uses just a handful of basic crochet stitches and techniques, making it accessible to anyone who has learned the fundamentals.

Chain Stitch (ch): The foundation of your bag and a key part of the mesh pattern itself.

Slip Stitch (sl st): Used to join rounds and move to the next section without adding height.

Single Crochet (sc): Used in the base of the bag to create a solid, sturdy bottom.

Double Crochet (dc): The main stitch used in the body of the bag alongside chain spaces.

Working in the Round: The body of this bag is worked in continuous or joined rounds, giving you a seamless tube shape that becomes the bag’s body.

Chain Space (ch sp): The gaps created by chaining between stitches are what give the mesh its characteristic openwork appearance.

If you’re comfortable with these techniques, you’re ready to begin. If you’re newer to crochet, it may help to practice a small swatch of the mesh pattern before diving into the full project.

Pattern Notes and Abbreviations

Before you start, here’s a quick reference for the abbreviations used throughout this pattern.

ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
ch sp = chain space
rep = repeat
st = stitch
rnd = round

This pattern is worked from the bottom up. You’ll begin with a solid oval or round base, then transition into the mesh body, and finish with a reinforced top edge and handles.

Finished size (approximate): 14 inches wide by 15 inches tall, not including handles. This can be adjusted easily by working more or fewer rounds in the body section.

Step One: Make the Base

The base of the bag is worked in a solid single crochet fabric to give the bottom structure and durability. Without a solid base, the bag would be floppy and items might sag through the mesh.

Start by chaining 16.

Round 1: Work 3 sc in the second chain from the hook. Sc in each chain across until you reach the last chain, then work 3 sc in that last chain. Now rotate your work and sc along the other side of the foundation chain. Join with a sl st to the first sc. You should have an oval shape with increases at each end.

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each of the first 3 stitches (the increases at one end). Sc in each stitch across the flat side. Work 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches at the other end. Sc in each stitch across the remaining flat side. Join with a sl st.

Round 3: Ch 1. Continue to increase at each rounded end by working 2 sc in every other stitch at the ends, and sc in each stitch along the sides. Join with a sl st.

Rounds 4–5: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around without any increases. Join with a sl st.

Your base should now be a firm oval, approximately 7 to 8 inches long and 4 to 5 inches wide. If you’d prefer a wider base, simply add one more increase round before the flat rounds. If you want a perfectly round base instead of an oval, you can start with a magic ring and work increases in the round until you reach your desired diameter of about 7 inches across.

Step Two: Work the Transition Round

Now you’ll transition from solid single crochet into the open mesh pattern. This round helps even out your stitch count and sets up the chain spaces you’ll be working into throughout the body.

Transition Round: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Skip 1 stitch. Dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st. Repeat from around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

This round creates the foundation of evenly spaced chain-1 spaces that your mesh rounds will build upon. Count your chain spaces to make sure you have an even number before moving on.

Step Three: Work the Mesh Body

This is the heart of the pattern and the part that creates the beautiful open fabric of the bag. The mesh is made by working double crochet stitches into the chain spaces from the previous round, with a chain stitch between each one.

Mesh Round: Ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1). Dc into the next ch sp, ch 1. Repeat from around. Join with a sl st to the third chain of the beginning ch-4.

That’s the entire mesh round. Repeat this round over and over until your bag body measures approximately 13 to 15 inches from the transition round, or until you’ve reached your desired height. The repetitive nature of the stitch makes this section surprisingly quick and enjoyable.

Tips for the mesh body section:

Work at a relaxed, consistent tension throughout. If some rounds feel tighter than others, the mesh won’t lie flat, and the openings will look uneven. It helps to pause every few rounds and gently stretch the work to check the fabric.

If you lose your place, remember that every dc goes into a chain space, not into a dc stitch. The double crochet stitches from the previous round are essentially decorative pillars, and the chain spaces between them are where you do all your work.

If you want a taller bag, simply keep repeating the mesh round. If you want a shorter market bag or produce bag, stop a few rounds earlier. This is your project, and there are no rules about height.

Step Four: Work the Top Edge

Once the body of the bag has reached your desired height, it’s time to add a reinforced top edge. This stabilizes the opening of the bag and gives you a neat, professional-looking finish.

Top Edge Round 1: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into every dc and 1 sc into every ch sp around the top of the bag. Join with a sl st. This fills in the mesh and creates a solid ring of single crochet at the top.

Top Edge Round 2: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st.

Top Edge Round 3: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st.

Three rounds of sc creates a band that’s sturdy enough to support the handles. If you want an even more reinforced edge, work one or two additional rows of single crochet before moving on.

Step Five: Make the Handles

The handles are what transform this from a bag into a true tote. You’ll make two handles, each attached at two points on opposite sides of the bag opening.

Decide where you want your handles to attach. For a bag that sits comfortably on your shoulder, you’ll want to position each handle attachment point roughly 4 to 5 inches apart from each other, centered on each side of the bag.

For each handle:

Attach your yarn to the top edge at the first attachment point. Chain 50 (or more if you want a longer handle — 50 chains gives you a handle of roughly 10 to 11 inches when folded, which is good for a hand-carry or elbow bag. Chain 65 to 70 for a shoulder bag).

Skip along the top edge to your second attachment point (about 4 to 5 stitches over) and sl st into that stitch to anchor the handle. Now crochet back along the chain you just made, working 1 sc in every chain stitch across the entire length. This creates a reinforced, double-layer handle.

When you reach the starting point, sl st to secure. Work another row of sc along the handle in the opposite direction for maximum strength, then fasten off and weave in the ends.

Repeat this process on the opposite side of the bag to make the second handle, being careful to position it symmetrically to the first.

For an extra-durable handle, you can work a third row of sc, or work a row of slip stitches over the handle to give it a braided appearance.

Finishing Your Bag

Once both handles are complete, all that’s left is finishing up. Use your tapestry needle to weave in any remaining yarn tails, working the ends through several stitches in different directions to secure them. With cotton yarn, it’s worth taking extra care here because cotton doesn’t grip as naturally as wool, and loose ends can work their way free over time.

Give your finished bag a gentle wash by hand or in the washing machine on a delicate cycle with cold water. Lay it flat or hang it to dry rather than putting it in the dryer, which can cause cotton to shrink. As it dries, gently shape it into the form you want. This first wet blocking will help the mesh open up beautifully and give the bag a polished, even look.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about this pattern is how easy it is to make it your own.

You can experiment with color by working the base in one color and the mesh body in another, or by striping through the mesh rounds every few rows. Changing yarn color in the middle of a round is simple — just pull up the new color on the last pull-through of the final stitch before the color change.

Adding a lining is another popular modification. Cut a piece of fabric to match the interior of the bag, sew the edges under, and hand-stitch it inside the bag. This turns your mesh tote into a solid bag that can carry smaller items without them slipping through the holes.

You can also play with stitch spacing. Working a ch-2 space between double crochets instead of ch-1 creates a more open, lacier mesh. Working sc stitches instead of dc creates a denser, tighter fabric that holds its shape differently. Each variation produces a unique look and feel.

For a produce bag or reusable shopping bag on the smaller side, simply start with a shorter foundation chain and work fewer mesh rounds. A bag about half this size is perfect for holding fruits and vegetables at the market.

Caring for Your Crocheted Tote

Cotton mesh tote bags are wonderfully low-maintenance. Machine wash them in cold water on a gentle cycle, or wash by hand with a small amount of mild detergent. Reshape while damp and lay flat or hang to dry. Avoid high heat, which can shrink or distort cotton fibers. With proper care, a well-made cotton tote will last for years, softening and becoming more beautiful with every wash.

If a stitch ever comes undone or you notice a small hole forming, it’s easy to repair with a tapestry needle and a short length of matching yarn. The open mesh structure means small repairs are almost invisible once complete.

Final Thoughts

Crocheting a mesh tote bag is one of those projects that delivers so much reward for relatively little effort. In just a few hours of enjoyable, rhythmic crochet, you end up with something genuinely useful, sustainable, and beautiful. The skills you practice here — working in the round, creating chain spaces, shaping a base and handles — are foundational techniques that will serve you in countless future projects.

Whether you make this bag for yourself or as a handmade gift, it’s the kind of object that gets used every single day and lasts for years. There’s something deeply satisfying about carrying your groceries home in something you made with your own hands. So gather your cotton yarn, pick up your hook, and enjoy every stitch.