How to Crochet a Coastal Market Tote: Easy Summer Crochet Pattern with Step-by-Step Tutorial

There’s something undeniably charming about carrying a handmade bag to the farmers market, the beach, or a weekend brunch. A coastal market tote checks every box — it’s sturdy enough to hold groceries, open and breezy enough for a summer day, and beautiful enough to get compliments everywhere you go. Best of all, it’s a project that works up surprisingly quickly, even if you’re still building your crochet confidence.

This step-by-step tutorial will walk you through everything you need to make your own coastal market tote from scratch. Whether you’re an adventurous beginner or an intermediate crocheter looking for a relaxing weekend project, this pattern is designed to be clear, enjoyable, and completely achievable. By the end, you’ll have a gorgeous, functional bag with a beachy, textured look that feels like it came straight from a boutique shop.

Let’s get started.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Before we dive into the materials and stitches, let’s talk about what makes this tote special.

The coastal market tote is worked in the round from the bottom up, which means there are no seams to sew and no confusing construction jumps. The base is solid and structured, giving the bag its shape, while the body features an open mesh stitch that creates that light, airy look so perfect for summer. The handles are crocheted directly into the bag, so they’re strong and integrated — no worrying about them pulling loose over time.

This bag is also incredibly versatile. Made in natural cotton twine or jute-style yarn, it leans into full coastal cottage territory. Swap in a chunky cream cotton and it feels like a relaxed California beach town. Use a pastel or striped yarn and it becomes something cheerful and playful. The structure of the pattern stays the same; the personality shifts entirely based on your material choices.

Materials You’ll Need

Getting your supplies together before you start makes the whole process smoother. Here’s what you’ll need for this project.

Yarn: Approximately 250–350 yards of a worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Natural jute twine (if labeled as “crochet friendly”), macramé cotton cord in a thinner weight, or any yarn labeled as worsted or size 4 will work beautifully. Brands like Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply Cotton Worsted, or WeCrochet Dishie are all excellent choices.

Hook: A 5.0mm (H/8) or 5.5mm (I/9) crochet hook. The slightly larger hook helps create the open mesh texture in the body of the bag and keeps the cotton yarn from feeling too stiff.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (you’ll need at least two), and a measuring tape.

Optional: Lining fabric and a needle and thread if you want to add a fabric lining to the inside of the bag. This is purely optional but adds a polished, boutique finish and prevents small items from slipping through the mesh.

Finished Size: Approximately 12 inches wide by 13 inches tall, not including handles. The handles add about 8 additional inches.

Stitch Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference guide for the stitches you’ll be working with.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
sp — space
st — stitch
rep — repeat
rnd — round

If you’re comfortable with single crochet and double crochet, you have everything you need for this pattern. The mesh body section uses a simple chain-and-double-crochet combination that creates the open lattice effect without requiring any specialty stitches.

Gauge

Gauge matters more for garments than for bags, but if you want your tote to match the finished size listed above, aim for roughly 14 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches in single crochet using your chosen yarn and hook.

If your gauge is a little off, don’t stress too much. A slightly smaller bag will hold a bit less; a slightly larger one will be extra roomy. Neither is a disaster for a market tote.

Pattern Notes

This bag is worked entirely in continuous rounds for the base and lower body, then joins with slip stitches once you begin the mesh section. Read through the full pattern before you begin so you have a sense of how the construction flows.

When working the base, you’ll be increasing at regular intervals to create a flat oval shape. The transition from base to body happens naturally as you stop increasing and simply continue working up the sides.

The mesh section is where the magic happens — and it’s easier than it looks. You’ll be creating a series of chain spaces with double crochets that lock into the row below. Once you complete one round of mesh, the rhythm becomes very intuitive.

Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round to help you keep track of where you are.

The Pattern

Part One: The Base

The base of this tote is an oval, worked in single crochet. The oval shape gives the bag more real-world carrying capacity than a round base and helps it stand up on its own.

Foundation Chain: Chain 16.

Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next 14 chains. Work 3 sc in the last chain (this curves around the end of your oval). Now working back along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc in the next 13 chains. Work 2 sc in the first chain (the other end of your oval). Place a stitch marker at this point to mark the beginning of your round. You should have 32 stitches total.

Round 2: Work 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next 13 sts, work 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the last 2 sts. (38 sts)

Round 3: Work 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next 14 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 3 times, sc in the next 13 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) twice. (44 sts)

Round 4: Work 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next 15 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in the next 2 sts) 3 times, sc in the next 13 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in the next 2 sts) twice. (50 sts)

Round 5: Sc in each st around. No increases. (50 sts)

You should now have a flat, oval base that measures approximately 7 inches long by 4 inches wide. If it’s cupping upward rather than lying flat, your tension may be a little tight — try loosening up your grip or going up a hook size.

Part Two: The Solid Body

For the next several rounds, you’ll work straight up the sides of the bag without increasing. This creates the solid lower section of the tote, which gives the bag structure at the bottom before opening into the mesh.

Rounds 6–12: Sc in each st around for 7 rounds. (50 sts each round)

At the end of Round 12, join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round. This is where you transition from continuous rounds into joined rounds for the mesh section. Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet throughout the mesh section).

Part Three: The Mesh Body

This is the section that gives the coastal market tote its signature open, breezy look. The mesh is created by alternating double crochets with chain-2 spaces. Each round builds directly on the last.

Round 13 (First Mesh Round): Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, skip the next 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 2, skip next 2 sts; rep from around. Join with sl st to the top of the ch-3 at the beginning of the round. You should have approximately 16–17 dc and ch-2 spaces around the bag.

(Note: If your stitch count doesn’t divide perfectly into groups of three, adjust by working a dc into the last available stitch and joining. The mesh will still look even.)

Round 14: Sl st into the first ch-2 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2; rep from around. Join with sl st to the top of the ch-3.

Rounds 15–22: Repeat Round 14 for 8 more rounds.

By the end of Round 22, your bag body should measure approximately 11–12 inches tall from the base. If you want a slightly deeper bag, simply add more rounds of mesh before moving on to the top edge.

Part Four: The Top Edge

The top edge finishes off the body cleanly and gives the handles something stable to anchor into.

Round 23: Ch 1, work sc in each dc and 2 sc in each ch-2 space around the top of the bag. Join with sl st to the first sc. (You should have approximately 48–52 sts.)

Round 24: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st. Fasten off and weave in the end for now. You’ll come back to pick up for the handles.

Part Five: The Handles

The handles are worked as separate flat strips that are then crocheted directly onto the top edge of the bag. This method creates handles that are strong, integrated, and easy to customize in length.

Making the First Handle:

Count the stitches along the top edge and find the center front of the bag. Count 6 stitches to the left and 6 stitches to the right of center — these 12 stitches will anchor your first handle.

Join your yarn to the stitch that is 6 stitches to the right of center.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 11 sts (working toward the left). Turn. (12 sts)

Rows 2–30: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn.

Row 30 brings your handle to approximately 8 inches. If you want longer handles (for wearing over the shoulder), work up to Row 40 or 45.

After completing your final row, do not fasten off. With the right side of the handle facing outward, fold the handle strip over to the inside of the bag. Count 12 stitches along the back top edge that correspond to the same position as your starting stitches (center back, 6 stitches to each side). Use a slip stitch to join the end of the handle to those 12 stitches along the back interior edge.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Making the Second Handle:

Repeat the same process on the opposite side of the bag (the back), joining yarn 6 stitches to the right of center back and attaching the end of the handle to the corresponding 12 stitches along the front interior edge.

Fasten off and weave in all remaining ends.

Finishing Touches

Once your handles are attached and all ends are woven in, give your tote a little finishing love.

If you used cotton yarn, a light hand-wash in cool water and a gentle reshape while damp will help even out the tension and give the bag a more polished look. Lay it flat or stuff it loosely with a plastic bag while it dries to help it hold its shape.

If you’d like to add a fabric lining, cut two rectangles of cotton fabric to match the interior dimensions of your bag, stitch them together along the sides and bottom with a sewing machine or by hand, fold the top edge down about a half inch, and slip stitch the lining to the inside of the bag just below the top edge. A lightweight canvas, a cheerful stripe, or even a classic gingham all look beautiful peeking out from the top.

You can also add a large button or wooden toggle to the center front and create a simple loop closure by working a chain of about 15 stitches at the center back, then slip stitching it into a loop. This keeps the bag closed on breezy days or when you’re hauling lighter loads.

Tips for Success

A few things that will make your experience with this pattern smoother and more enjoyable.

Cotton yarn has very little stretch compared to acrylic, so if you find your tension is uneven, slow down and focus on keeping consistent pressure on the yarn as you work each stitch. It gets easier with every round.

Count your stitches at the end of each base round. Oval bases are one of the trickiest parts of bag construction because they require specific increases at specific points. If something looks off, count before you continue.

When working the mesh rounds, always enter each new round in the chain-2 space, not in the top of the double crochet. This is the most common mistake beginners make with mesh stitch, and it causes the rounds to drift off-center over time.

Use a longer hook than you think you need. For cotton bags especially, a looser gauge creates a more beautiful, drapey mesh and prevents the finished bag from feeling stiff or board-like.

Variations to Try

One of the best things about a simple pattern like this is how much room there is to make it your own.

Try working the base and solid body in one color and switching to a contrasting color for the mesh section. A navy base with a natural ecru mesh is striking and classic. A terracotta base with a cream mesh leans into the desert-meets-coastal trend beautifully.

Add a stripe by switching colors every two rounds of mesh. Simple alternating stripes are effortless and eye-catching, especially in beach-inspired colors like coral, seafoam, sand, and white.

Work the entire body in single crochet instead of transitioning to mesh if you want a more structured, fully opaque bag that’s better for carrying items that might slip through an open stitch. The oval base and handle construction stay exactly the same.

Use a smaller hook and finer twine to make a miniature version of this bag as a gift bag, a plant holder, or a wine tote.

Caring for Your Tote

Most cotton yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in cold water, but always check the label of your specific yarn before tossing it in the wash. If in doubt, hand-wash gently and air dry. Avoid putting a cotton tote in the dryer repeatedly, as it can cause the fibers to shrink and stiffen over time.

Store your tote stuffed loosely with newspaper or a folded towel to help it keep its shape between uses.

Final Thoughts

Crocheting your own market tote is one of those projects that feels incredibly satisfying from the very first round to the moment you sling the finished bag over your shoulder and head out the door. It’s practical, it’s beautiful, and it’s something you made entirely with your own hands — which honestly makes everything you carry in it feel a little more special.

This coastal market tote pattern is designed to grow with you as a crocheter. Your first one might take a lazy weekend; your fifth one, you’ll knock out in an afternoon while watching your favorite show. It makes a wonderful gift for teachers, mothers, friends, and anyone who loves the beach, the market, or simply a well-made handmade thing.

If you make this tote, share a photo — there’s something endlessly inspiring about seeing all the different colors and yarn choices people bring to the same simple pattern. Now grab your hook, find that skein of cotton you’ve been saving, and start crocheting. The market (and the beach) awaits.