Free Crochet Pattern: How to Make a Drawstring Bag
There is something deeply satisfying about making a bag from scratch. It starts as a skein of yarn and a hook, and ends up as something you can actually carry around — something functional, something beautiful, something made entirely by your own hands. Drawstring bags are one of those projects that never go out of style. They are quick enough to finish in a weekend, versatile enough to use for almost anything, and simple enough that even a confident beginner can tackle them without stress.
This free crochet pattern walks you through every step of making a drawstring bag that looks polished and professional. Whether you are making it as a gift, a project bag, a gym tote, or a little pouch for jewelry and trinkets, this pattern works for all of those purposes. The finished bag measures approximately 12 inches wide and 14 inches tall before the drawstring is pulled, which makes it a generous size without being overwhelming. You can absolutely scale it up or down depending on your yarn weight and hook size.
Let’s get into it.
What Makes This Drawstring Bag Special
Before you start hooking, it helps to understand what you are making and why this particular construction works so well. This bag is worked in the round from the bottom up, starting with a flat circular base and then building up the sides in a simple stitch pattern. The drawstring channel is crocheted directly into the design rather than added as an afterthought, which gives the bag a cleaner, more intentional look. The drawstring itself can be made from a crocheted chain, twisted cord, ribbon, or even a length of leather cord, depending on the aesthetic you are going for.
The stitch pattern uses a combination of single crochet and half double crochet that creates a dense, structured fabric. This means the bag holds its shape without needing any lining, though you can absolutely add one if you want. The texture is subtle — not so busy that it distracts from a beautiful yarn, but interesting enough that a simple solid color looks engaging rather than flat.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials together before you start is one of those small habits that makes the whole crochet experience more enjoyable. There is nothing more frustrating than running out of yarn halfway through a project or realizing you grabbed the wrong size hook.
For this pattern, you will need approximately 200 to 250 yards of worsted weight yarn (category 4). Cotton yarn is an excellent choice here because it is sturdy, it washes well, and it gives the bag great structure. That said, a wool blend or acrylic works perfectly fine too. If you want a softer, slouchier bag, a yarn with more drape — like a bamboo blend — will give you that effect.
You will need a 5.0 mm crochet hook (size H/8). This hook pairs well with worsted weight yarn and produces a fabric that is firm without being stiff.
Other materials include a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds, and approximately 60 inches of cord or ribbon for the drawstring. If you are crocheting the drawstring, you will need a smaller hook — about 3.5 mm or 4.0 mm — to create a tighter, more rope-like cord.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
inc — increase (two stitches worked into the same stitch)
BLO — back loop only
st — stitch
rnd — round
If you are newer to crochet and unfamiliar with any of these stitches, a quick search will turn up hundreds of video tutorials that demonstrate them clearly. The half double crochet is the trickiest of the bunch for beginners, but it is genuinely easy to pick up with a few minutes of practice.
Gauge
Gauge matters more for bags than people sometimes expect. Because there is no sizing involved the way there is with garments, many crocheters skip the gauge swatch — but getting your gauge close to the pattern recommendation ensures your bag ends up the right size and with the right density of fabric.
For this pattern, the gauge is approximately 14 stitches and 12 rows in a 4-inch by 4-inch square of single crochet using worsted weight yarn and a 5.0 mm hook. If your swatch is smaller than that, go up a hook size. If it is larger, go down a hook size. The goal is a fabric that is dense enough to hold its shape but not so tight that it feels stiff.
Pattern Instructions
The Base
Start by making a magic ring, or chain 4 and join to form a ring if you prefer not to use a magic ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of this round to mark the round end. (6 stitches)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch. Move your stitch marker up. (12 stitches)
Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next st. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (18 stitches)
Round 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (24 stitches)
Round 5: Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (30 stitches)
Round 6: Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (36 stitches)
Round 7: Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (42 stitches)
Round 8: Sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the next st. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
At this point you should have a flat circle with 48 stitches. It should measure approximately 5 to 5.5 inches in diameter. If you want a wider bag, you can continue adding increase rounds following the same pattern — add one more stitch between increases each round and add 6 stitches each time.
The Sides
This is where the bag transitions from the flat base into the body. Working in the back loop only for the first round of the sides creates a neat, defined edge between the base and the walls of the bag — it is a small detail that makes a big visual difference.
Round 9 (Transition Round): Working in BLO only, sc in each st around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
From this point forward, work through both loops as usual.
Rounds 10 through 12: Sc in each st around. Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round. (48 stitches)
Round 13: Hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
Rounds 14 through 16: Sc in each st around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
Round 17: Hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
Rounds 18 through 20: Sc in each st around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
Round 21: Hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
Rounds 22 through 26: Sc in each st around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
Continue working in sc until the body of the bag measures approximately 11 to 12 inches from the transition round. The alternating hdc rounds appear every few rows and give the bag a gentle horizontal texture. You can space these out differently if you prefer, or skip them entirely for a completely smooth fabric.
The Drawstring Channel
The drawstring channel is created by working a series of chain spaces that are evenly distributed around the bag. This creates the slots through which your cord will be threaded.
Round 27 (Drawstring Channel Round 1): Sc in the next 4 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. You will have 8 chain spaces evenly distributed around the bag.
Round 28 (Drawstring Channel Round 2): Sc in the next 4 sts, sc 2 in the ch-2 space. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
Rounds 29 through 30: Sc in each st around. Join with a slip stitch. (48 stitches)
These two rounds create a clean, reinforced channel. The chain spaces in round 27 are where the drawstring enters and exits the bag. Because there are 8 openings rather than just 2, the bag cinches evenly all the way around when the cord is pulled, which gives it a much more polished look than a bag with just two openings on opposite sides.
The Top Edge
Round 31: Sl st in each st around for a clean, finished edge. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Alternatively, you can work one or two more rounds of sc before finishing the top if you want the bag opening to be slightly taller. Some crocheters also like to finish the top with a row of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch), which adds a subtle decorative cord of texture along the rim.
Making the Drawstring
You have a few options here and all of them look great depending on the style you are going for.
The simplest option is to use a length of ribbon — grosgrain ribbon is a good choice because it is flat, has a slight texture that prevents it from slipping loose, and comes in hundreds of colors. Cut two lengths of about 30 inches each and thread them through the channel from opposite sides so that both ends of each ribbon exit from the same side. This is the standard drawstring construction — pulling both sets of ends closes the bag.
For a crocheted cord, use a length of the same yarn you used for the bag or a complementary color. Using a 3.5 mm or 4.0 mm hook, make a chain about 60 inches long, then slip stitch back down the chain to create a round, rope-like cord. This is faster than it sounds and creates a beautiful, sturdy drawstring that feels very cohesive with the bag itself. Thread it through the channel the same way as the ribbon.
You can also make a twisted cord by cutting four lengths of yarn, each about 80 inches long. Hold them together and knot one end. Attach the knot to a door handle or have a friend hold it, then twist the other end consistently in one direction until the whole length is tightly twisted. Fold the twisted length in half, hold both ends together, and let the cord twist back on itself. Knot both ends and trim. The result is a traditional twisted cord that has a lovely weight and texture.
Finishing Touches
Once the drawstring is threaded through the channel, tie a knot at each end of the cord to prevent it from slipping back through. You can also thread the cord ends through a wooden bead or button before knotting for a decorative touch that also makes the bag easier to open and close with one hand.
Take a moment to weave in all your ends securely. Cotton yarn in particular has a tendency to work its way loose over time, so weave the tail in multiple directions and pull it snugly.
If you are using cotton yarn and the bag feels a little stiff straight off the hook, blocking it will help enormously. Soak the finished bag in cool water for about 15 minutes, gently press out the excess water in a towel (do not wring it), and then shape it while it is still damp. Let it dry flat or stuffed with a plastic bag to hold its shape. Once it dries, the fabric will soften and the stitches will bloom slightly, and the whole thing will look even better.
Ideas for Customizing This Pattern
One of the real pleasures of a simple pattern like this is how easy it is to adapt. You might try striping the body of the bag by switching colors every two or four rounds — the slip stitch join at the end of each round makes it easy to change colors cleanly. A bag striped in two or three complementary colors makes a particularly striking gift.
You can also add a small embroidered motif to the side of the bag once it is finished — a flower, a leaf, a simple geometric shape. Surface crochet is another option, where you lay a design on top of the finished fabric using a hook and a length of contrasting yarn. It is easier than it sounds and adds a lovely handcrafted quality.
If you want to add a lining, cut a piece of fabric about an inch larger than the inside of the bag, fold the edges under, and hand-stitch it to the inside just below the drawstring channel. A lining is especially worth adding if you are going to use the bag to carry small items like jewelry, earbuds, or anything that might otherwise slip through the crochet fabric.
For a smaller version, try working the same pattern with fingering or sport weight yarn and a 2.5 or 3.5 mm hook. The result is a delicate little pouch perfect for holding a ring, a pair of earrings, or a single special piece of jewelry. These tiny versions are wonderful as gift pouches for jewelry, and they use so little yarn that you can make several from a single skein.
Gifting This Bag
Handmade gifts carry a weight that store-bought things simply cannot match. When you give someone a bag you have made yourself, you are giving them the hours you spent making it — the decisions about color, the care in finishing it neatly, the thought about what they might like to put inside it.
This drawstring bag is particularly giftable because it is useful for so many different things. Fill it with spa products for a birthday or holiday gift. Use it to wrap a bottle of wine or a small potted succulent. Package small children’s toys inside it. Give it as a project bag to a fellow crafter. Tie it closed with the drawstring and present a piece of jewelry inside.
If you are giving it as a gift package rather than the gift itself, the bag becomes part of the present — something beautiful and reusable that the recipient will keep long after the contents are gone. That is the kind of gift people remember.
A Few Tips for Beginners
If this is one of your first crochet bag projects, a few things will make the process easier. Use a stitch marker religiously — even if you think you can keep track of the round changes in your head, the stitch marker is faster and more reliable than counting back through your work. Move it up at the end of every single round and you will never lose your place.
Work at a tension that feels natural and consistent rather than forcing a particular tightness. Your hands will find their rhythm after the first few rounds. If your first attempt at the base comes out looking a little uneven, keep going — the sides usually look much more consistent than the base, and blocking will smooth out a lot of irregularities.
Finally, do not rush the finishing. Weaving in ends carefully, working a clean edge round, and blocking the finished piece are the steps that take a project from “handmade” to “beautiful.” They do not take long, but they make an enormous difference.
Happy crocheting. This little bag has been made in hundreds of variations by crafters all over the world, and every single one of them carries something a little different inside. Yours will too.
