Flat-Lay Drawstring Bag Free Crochet Pattern

There is something deeply satisfying about a project that is both beautiful and useful. A crocheted drawstring bag sits at the perfect intersection of those two things — it takes only a modest amount of yarn and time, it works up quickly enough to keep even an impatient crafter engaged, and when it is finished, you have something you will actually reach for every day. Whether you need a project bag for your yarn stash, a beach pouch, a gift bag, a gym sack, or a stylish accessory to hang off your tote, this flat-lay drawstring bag delivers on every count.

This free crochet pattern is written for intermediate beginners — meaning that if you have mastered the chain stitch, single crochet, and double crochet, you are ready to give this a go. The construction is straightforward, the stitch count is forgiving, and the end result looks far more complex than the work that goes into it. By the time you reach the drawstring channel at the top, you will already be imagining the next colorway you want to try.

Let’s get into everything you need to know.

What Is a Flat-Lay Drawstring Bag?

Before diving into the pattern itself, it helps to understand what makes a flat-lay construction different from other bag styles. A flat-lay bag is worked in flat panels — typically a front and a back — that are then seamed together rather than worked entirely in the round. This approach gives you a few distinct advantages.

First, it means the bag lies completely flat when empty, which makes it ideal for packing, gifting, and storing. Second, it creates clean, defined edges along the sides, giving the finished piece a more structured, intentional look. Third, because you are working flat rows, you can see both sides of your work as you go, which makes it easier to follow stitch counts and catch any errors before they compound.

The drawstring closure is the finishing detail that brings the whole thing together. Rather than a button, zipper, or flap, the drawstring is threaded through a channel crocheted into the top of the bag. Pull the cord tight and the bag cinches elegantly. Release it and the bag opens wide to receive whatever you need to put inside. It is one of the most practical closures in textile craft, and it has a timeless, handmade look that never feels dated.

Materials You Will Need

One of the great things about this pattern is that it does not require a lot of supplies. Here is what you will want to have on hand before you start.

Yarn: This pattern works beautifully in a worsted weight cotton yarn. Cotton is the ideal fiber choice for bags because it is sturdy, holds its shape, and does not stretch out the way acrylic can over time. Plan for approximately 200 to 250 yards for a medium-sized bag. If you want a smaller project bag or gift pouch, you can get away with as little as 150 yards. Popular cotton yarn choices include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton (held double), Paintbox Simply Worsted Cotton, WeCrochet Comfy Cotton Blend, and Cascade Ultra Pima. That said, any worsted weight yarn will work — use what you have and what you love.

Hook: A 5.0mm (H/8) crochet hook is recommended for worsted weight cotton. If you tend to crochet tightly, size up to a 5.5mm. If you tend to crochet loosely, try a 4.5mm. The goal is a fabric that is firm enough to hold its structure without being stiff or difficult to work with.

Notions: You will also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, a pair of scissors, and approximately 50 to 60 inches of cord, ribbon, or a crocheted chain for the drawstring. You can use a premade cord from a craft or fabric store, macramé rope, a leather cord, or simply crochet a very long chain in the same or a contrasting yarn.

Optional: Stitch markers are helpful for keeping track of row counts if you are newer to flat crochet work. A small safety pin or bodkin makes threading the drawstring through the channel much easier.

Gauge

Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows in single crochet = 4 inches x 4 inches using a 5.0mm hook and worsted weight yarn.

Gauge matters more for wearable items than it does for bags, but if your gauge is significantly off, your finished bag will end up a different size than described. Check your gauge with a small swatch before beginning if you want to match the dimensions listed below exactly.

Finished Dimensions

The finished bag measures approximately 10 inches wide by 12 inches tall (before cinching the drawstring). The gusset depth is minimal — this is a flat bag by design — but the cotton yarn will naturally expand slightly with use, giving you more room than you might expect from the initial measurements.

If you want a larger bag, you can add additional chains to your starting chain in multiples of the stitch repeat you are using. If you want a smaller bag, reduce your starting chain by the same logic.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
sk — skip
sp — space
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rep — repeat
st — stitch
sts — stitches
yo — yarn over
t-ch — turning chain

The Stitch Pattern: Simple Mesh with Solid Border

The body of this bag uses a simple open mesh stitch, which creates a lacy, breathable texture that looks elegant and works up quickly. The mesh is achieved with alternating double crochets and chain-one spaces. The bottom and side borders are worked in solid single crochet for structure. The top of the bag includes a solid band that forms the drawstring channel.

If you prefer a fully solid bag, you can substitute the mesh section with rows of simple single or double crochet and the bag will work out to the same general dimensions. The mesh version just has a particularly lovely drape and a more decorative appearance.

Pattern Instructions

Step One: The Bottom Panel

Begin by making a foundation chain of 37 chains. This will give you 35 working stitches plus 2 for the turning chain.

Row 1 (RS): Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc across. (35 sc) Turn.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc across. (35 sc) Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc across. (35 sc) Turn.

Work three rows of solid single crochet as described. This creates the firm base of the bag that will sit flat against whatever surface the bag rests on.

Step Two: The Mesh Body

Row 4 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), sk the first st, dc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in the next st, rep from to across to last st, dc in the last st. Turn. You should have 17 dc-ch1 spaces across the row with dc stitches at both edges.

Row 5 (WS): Ch 3, dc in the first ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp, rep from to across, ending with dc in the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Turn.

Repeat Row 5 until the mesh section measures approximately 9 inches from the bottom solid border, or until you have worked the number of rows you prefer. Because each row of the mesh works up a bit taller than a row of single crochet, you will reach your desired length faster than you might expect.

Step Three: The Top Solid Border

Once your mesh section is the length you want, return to solid single crochet for the top band.

Next row (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across. (35 sc) Turn.

Work 2 more rows of sc in this manner, for a total of 3 rows of solid sc at the top.

Step Four: The Drawstring Channel

The drawstring channel is formed by a simple row of dc and ch-1 spaces, just like the mesh body, except it sits at the very top of the bag and is then covered by a final row of single crochet. This creates a tunnel through which the drawstring can pass.

Channel Row 1: Ch 3, sk 1, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1, rep across to last st, dc in last st. Turn.

Channel Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp across. (35 sc) Fasten off and weave in end.

Make a second panel identical to the first.

Seaming the Panels

Lay both panels with wrong sides together. Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch or single crochet the two panels together along the two side edges and the bottom edge. Leave the top open, as that is your bag opening. As you seam, make sure to catch both layers securely, especially at the corners, to prevent any gaps or weak points.

If you want a cleaner interior finish, you can seam the panels with right sides together (so the seam is hidden inside), then turn the bag right side out when you are finished. Either method is perfectly valid — it just comes down to your aesthetic preference.

Adding the Drawstring

Cut two lengths of cord, each approximately 25 to 30 inches long. Thread one cord through a bodkin or attach it to a safety pin. Starting from the right side of the bag, weave the cord through every other opening in the drawstring channel, going all the way around and exiting back on the right side. Knot the two ends of this cord together, or tie them off decoratively.

Take the second cord and start from the left side of the bag, weaving it through the same channel but entering through the openings you skipped the first time. This second cord also exits on the left side. Knot or tie those ends together as well.

When you pull both cords simultaneously from each side, the bag will cinch evenly from both sides, creating that classic gathered drawstring closure.

If you prefer a single-cord drawstring that exits from only one side, use one longer cord, thread it all the way around the channel, and tie the two ends together in a bow or knot on one side.

Finishing Touches

Weave in any remaining ends with your yarn needle. If you used cotton yarn, you can lightly dampen the finished bag and shape it by hand, then allow it to dry flat. This process, called blocking, evens out any uneven stitches and gives the mesh a more uniform, polished appearance.

If you want to add a tassel, pom-pom, or charm to the bottom corners or to the drawstring ends, now is the time. A small tassel made from the same yarn as the bag gives it a pulled-together, boutique look. A simple pom-pom in a contrasting color is a fun, playful touch.

Tips for Success

Working with cotton yarn for the first time can feel a little stiff compared to acrylic, but this is a feature rather than a flaw when it comes to bags. The stiffness gives structure and means the bag will hold its shape beautifully over time.

If your mesh rows feel loose or uneven, try going down a hook size for that section. The mesh rows tend to grow bigger than the solid rows with the same hook, so some tension adjustment may be needed.

Pay close attention to the edges of your mesh rows. It is easy to accidentally skip the turning chain or the last stitch in a row, which can cause your bag panels to gradually narrow. Using stitch markers at each end of your rows can prevent this.

When seaming, use a consistent stitch length and try to match the tension of your crocheted stitches. A seam that is too loose will leave gaps; one that is too tight will pucker.

Size Variations

The pattern as written produces a medium bag well-suited for a project bag, a small gift bag, or an everyday carry pouch. Here is how to adjust it for other purposes.

For a small drawstring gift bag, start with 21 chains and work until the mesh section is about 5 inches. This produces a bag roughly 5.5 by 6 inches — perfect for jewelry, small gifts, or party favors.

For a large beach or gym bag, start with 55 chains and work until the mesh section is about 14 inches. Use a bulkier yarn (bulky weight, size 5 or 6) with a 6mm or 6.5mm hook for something that will hold towels, shoes, or gear.

For a market bag where you want the mesh to be more prominent and lacy, you can work the entire body of the bag — not just the middle section — in the mesh stitch, and skip the bottom solid border. This gives the bag a net-like quality that makes it great for produce or lightweight items.

Yarn Color Ideas

One of the most enjoyable parts of making a drawstring bag is choosing the color. Solid colors look crisp and modern. Variegated yarns create unexpected, beautiful patterns through the mesh openings. Self-striping yarns produce automatic color blocking without any extra effort on your part.

Some combinations that work particularly well: a dusty sage green with a natural cotton cord drawstring, a deep navy blue with a white macramé rope, a warm terracotta with a jute or leather cord, and a soft cream or off-white with colorful satin ribbon threaded through the channel.

If you want to make these as gifts, consider the recipient’s personal style. A bag made in their favorite color or in colors that match their kitchen, gym bag, or aesthetic will feel far more personal than a generic one.

Making This Pattern Your Own

Once you are comfortable with the basic construction, there are many ways to personalize it. You can add a crocheted surface detail or embroidered motif to the front panel before seaming. You can use two different yarns for the two panels to create a reversible or two-toned effect. You can line the bag with fabric for added structure or to make it suitable for carrying items that might snag on the mesh openings.

You can also combine stitch patterns — for instance, using a granny square motif for the body of the bag rather than the open mesh, then adding the same solid borders and drawstring channel at the top. The basic architecture of the pattern (a flat panel, seamed, with a top channel) is flexible enough to work with almost any flat crochet stitch.

Storing and Caring for Your Finished Bag

Cotton is wonderfully easy to care for. Most cotton yarns are machine washable on a gentle or delicate cycle, though checking the label of your specific yarn is always recommended. Lay the bag flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer, as heat can cause cotton fibers to shrink slightly and may also affect any cord or ribbon you have used for the drawstring.

Over time, cotton softens with washing and use, becoming even more pleasant to handle. A bag you make today will feel even better a year from now than it does the day you finish it.

Final Thoughts

This flat-lay drawstring bag is one of those patterns that earns its place in a crafter’s permanent repertoire. It is fast enough to finish in a weekend, customizable enough to never feel repetitive, and useful enough that you will find yourself making one after another in different colors and sizes. It works as a project bag, a beach pouch, a gym sack, a party favor bag, a gift wrap alternative, a produce bag, or simply a beautiful handmade accessory.

Because it is constructed flat and seamed rather than worked entirely in the round, it is also a great project for crocheters who are more comfortable with row-by-row work. The mesh stitch is satisfying to work and creates a finished object that looks impressively delicate and intentional without requiring any advanced techniques.

Make one for yourself, make a dozen as gifts, or make a small mountain of them in every color you love. However you use this pattern, happy crocheting.