Easy Crochet Laundry Tote Basket With Long Handles You’ll Actually Use
There’s something deeply satisfying about making something useful with your own hands. When that something also happens to be beautiful, durable, and solves an everyday problem you’ve been quietly annoyed by for years, well — that’s the sweet spot of crafting. This crochet laundry tote basket with long handles is exactly that project. It’s roomy enough to carry a full load of laundry, sturdy enough to hold its shape when full, and the long handles mean you can actually sling it over your shoulder like a bag instead of hugging it awkwardly to your chest while you navigate a narrow hallway to the washing machine.
If you’ve been crocheting for a little while and you’re ready for a project that feels practical and rewarding, this is the one. And if you’re newer to crochet and wondering whether you can pull it off — yes, you can. The stitches here are simple. The challenge is mostly in the size and the attention to consistency, not in complicated techniques. Let’s get into everything you need to know.
Why Make a Crochet Laundry Basket Instead of Just Buying One?
Fair question. You can find plastic laundry baskets at any big box store for under ten dollars. But here’s what those don’t give you: the exact size you need, the colors that match your bathroom or laundry room, the ability to toss it in the wash when it gets funky, or that particular pleasure of using something you made yourself. A crocheted laundry tote made from cotton rope or chunky cotton yarn is actually washable, which is more than you can say for most wicker alternatives. It’s also lightweight, foldable for storage, and customizable in every way.
People who make this project once tend to make it again — for a college student heading off to a dorm, as a housewarming gift, or simply because the first one got claimed by someone else in the household.
What You’ll Need
Before we start, let’s talk materials. The beauty of this project is that the supply list is short.
Yarn: You’ll want a chunky cotton rope yarn or a thick single-strand cotton yarn. Look for something labeled as bulky (weight 5 or 6) or a cotton macramé-style rope in the 3mm to 5mm range. Cotton is ideal for laundry baskets because it’s breathable, washable, and strong. You’ll need approximately 400 to 500 yards depending on the final size you choose. Some popular choices are Ganxxet cotton cord, Bobbiny recycled cotton rope, or any thick cotton tube yarn you can find at your local craft store.
Hook: Use a crochet hook that is one to two sizes larger than what the yarn label recommends. For a chunky cotton rope, you’ll typically be working with a 10mm to 12mm hook. Going up a size from the recommendation creates a slightly looser, more flexible fabric that works beautifully for a basket.
Tapestry needle: You’ll need one large enough to thread your yarn for weaving in ends.
Scissors: Just a good pair of craft scissors.
Stitch markers: Optional but helpful, especially for marking the beginning of rounds.
Measuring tape: Because you’ll want to check your dimensions as you go.
Gauge and Sizing
With a 10mm hook and chunky cotton rope, aim for approximately 7 stitches and 8 rows equaling about 4 inches in single crochet. That said, gauge matters less for a basket than it does for a wearable, so don’t stress too much about hitting it exactly. What matters more is that your fabric feels dense and structured rather than floppy. If your basket feels too loose, go down a hook size. If it feels stiff and hard to work, go up.
The finished dimensions for this pattern are approximately 14 inches wide and 12 inches tall (before the handles), with long handles of about 20 inches each. This gives you a tote you can comfortably carry over one shoulder or in the crook of your arm.
Stitches You’ll Use
This pattern uses only a small handful of stitches, all of which are foundational crochet basics.
Chain (ch): The starting point for most crochet projects.
Slip stitch (sl st): Used to join rounds and at the base of the handles.
Single crochet (sc): The workhorse stitch of this entire pattern. If you’re comfortable with single crochet, you can make this basket.
Single crochet two together (sc2tog): A basic decrease used only during the shaping of the basket base. This is the only “technique” beyond single crochet and it’s very beginner-accessible.
Working in the round: The basket body is worked in continuous rounds, which means you won’t be joining and turning the way you would for flat squares. You’ll just keep spiraling upward, which many people actually find easier and more meditative than working in rows.
Pattern Instructions
Part One: The Base
Start by making a magic ring or, if you prefer, chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a small ring.
Round 1: Work 6 single crochets into the ring. Pull the tail to tighten the ring closed. You’ll have 6 stitches. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round so you can track where each round begins.
Round 2: Work 2 single crochets in each stitch around. You’ll have 12 stitches.
Round 3: Sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat from to around. You’ll have 18 stitches.
Round 4: Sc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat around. You’ll have 24 stitches.
Round 5: Sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat around. You’ll have 30 stitches.
Round 6: Sc in the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat around. You’ll have 36 stitches.
Round 7: Sc in the next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat around. You’ll have 42 stitches.
Round 8: Sc in the next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat around. You’ll have 48 stitches.
At this point, your base should measure approximately 8 to 9 inches in diameter. If you want a wider basket, continue adding rounds in the same pattern (adding one more sc between increases each round) until you reach your desired width. If your base is curling up rather than lying flat, your tension may be too tight — try loosening your grip slightly.
Part Two: The Walls
This is where the basket starts to take shape, and honestly, this is the most meditative part of the project. You’re going to work single crochets in a continuous spiral, and there’s nothing to count except the rounds themselves.
Round 9 (Transition round): Working through the back loops only (BLO) of each stitch, single crochet all the way around. Working through the back loops creates a defined ridge that marks the transition from the base to the walls and gives the basket a crisp, professional-looking corner.
Rounds 10 through 30: Work single crochet in both loops around and around through all stitches in each round. This is your wall section. Keep going until the walls measure approximately 10 to 12 inches tall. If you want a shorter basket, stop at round 25. If you want something deeper to accommodate larger laundry loads, keep going a few extra rounds.
Check in with yourself periodically. Is the basket holding its shape? Is it standing up on its own when you set it down? If it’s collapsing, your tension is too loose. If the sides are curling inward, check that you’re not accidentally decreasing stitches somewhere.
At the end of your final wall round, slip stitch into the next stitch to create a clean edge, then fasten off and weave in that end. You’ll add the handles separately, and many crafters prefer to leave the top edge without any additional rounds so the fabric stays flexible and easy to stuff with laundry.
Part Three: The Long Handles
This is the feature that takes this basket from ordinary to genuinely useful. Long handles change how you interact with the basket entirely. Instead of carrying it pressed against your body, you can carry it over your shoulder, hang it on a door hook, or set it on a laundry cart without the handles flopping down.
Each handle is worked flat, as its own separate strip, then attached to the basket at both ends. You’ll make two handles.
For each handle:
Chain 8.
Row 1: Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. You’ll have 7 stitches. Chain 1 and turn.
Rows 2 through 70: Single crochet across all 7 stitches. Chain 1 and turn after each row. Continue until the handle measures approximately 20 inches long, or your desired length. Twenty inches gives a comfortable shoulder carry for most adults. If you want handles you can carry in your hand rather than over your shoulder, 14 to 16 inches will work just as well.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail of at least 12 inches for attaching the handle to the basket.
Repeat to make the second handle.
Attaching the Handles
This step takes a little patience, but it makes all the difference in the durability of your finished tote. Handles that are attached sloppily will pull away from the basket over time, especially when it’s loaded with wet laundry. Handles attached thoroughly and evenly will outlast the basket itself.
Mark two spots on the basket rim, approximately 5 to 6 inches apart from each other, on the front of the basket. Then find the corresponding spots on the back. These four points are where your handles will attach — two points per handle.
Using your tapestry needle and the long tail left at the end of your handle, sew one end of the handle securely to one of the marked spots. Stitch through the handle and basket multiple times, moving in different directions to create a strong bond. Then sew the other end of the same handle to the second marked spot, making sure the handle isn’t twisted. Repeat for the second handle on the back of the basket.
If you want to go the extra mile, you can use a coordinating piece of fabric or leather as a reinforcement patch on the inside of the basket behind each handle attachment point. This distributes the weight of a heavy load and helps prevent tearing over time. It’s especially worth doing if you plan to use this basket regularly with heavy items.
Weave in all remaining ends securely.
Finishing Touches
Once your handles are attached and your ends are woven in, give your basket a good look. Set it on a flat surface and see how it stands. If it’s leaning to one side, blocking can help. To block a cotton basket, simply wet it thoroughly with cool water, squeeze out the excess (don’t wring), shape it by hand into the form you want, and let it dry completely. This usually takes 24 to 48 hours depending on your yarn thickness and the humidity in your home. Once dry, the basket will hold its shape much more reliably.
If you want to add a decorative touch, consider adding a few rows of a contrasting color at the top of the basket walls before you fasten off, or weaving a long length of contrasting yarn through the stitches near the top as a visual stripe. You can also add a simple crochet flower or initial as a tag near one handle attachment point to personalize the basket as a gift.
Tips for Success
Working with chunky cotton rope is different from working with standard yarn, and there are a few things that will make the process smoother. Keep your tension consistent throughout — this is the single most important factor in how the basket turns out. If your tension varies, the walls may look uneven or have visible bulges. If you find yourself tensing up as you work, take breaks and shake out your hands.
The stitch marker is your best friend in this pattern. Because you’re working in a continuous spiral, it’s easy to lose track of where one round ends and another begins. Move the marker up at the start of every round and you’ll never lose your place.
Count your stitches at the end of the base rounds. It’s easy to accidentally add or skip a stitch during the increase rounds, and a small error in the base will throw off the stitch count for every wall round that follows. Better to catch it early than to count 48 stitches per round and come up with 47 or 49 twenty rounds into the walls.
If you run out of yarn mid-project, try to join new yarn at the end of a round rather than in the middle of one. The join will be less visible and easier to weave in.
Caring for Your Crochet Laundry Tote
One of the best things about making this basket from cotton is that it’s machine washable. Toss it in on a gentle or delicate cycle with cold water and mild detergent. Skip the dryer — lay it flat or hang it to air dry, reshaping it as needed while it’s still damp. Cotton can shrink slightly with heat, and dryer heat can also make the fibers stiffer over time.
If you’re using a macramé-style cotton rope, the basket may look a little scruffier after washing as the fibers fluff slightly. This is completely normal and actually gives the basket a cozy, well-loved look that many people prefer.
Gifting This Basket
A crochet laundry tote with long handles makes an incredibly thoughtful gift that almost anyone would genuinely use. For a college student, pair it with a small laundry travel kit — detergent pods, a mesh lingerie bag, dryer sheets — and you have a practical, personal send-off present. For a housewarming, choose colors that coordinate with the recipient’s known aesthetic. For a new homeowner, make two baskets — one for lights and one for darks — and tie them together with a ribbon.
Because the pattern is straightforward and relatively quick to work up (most crafters complete this basket in two to four sessions), it’s also a great pattern to make in multiples when you have several gifts to prepare at once.
A Final Note
Crochet has a beautiful way of turning time into objects. Every round of this basket is a few minutes of your attention, accumulated into something you’ll reach for multiple times a week for years. The handles will carry your laundry through Saturday mornings and late-night wash cycles, through apartments and houses and maybe a few moves. That’s not a bad return on an afternoon of crocheting.
Pick up your hook, grab your cotton rope, and make something you’ll actually use. The washing machine is waiting.
