Drawstring Purl Pouch Knitting Pattern: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a small pouch. It is quick enough to finish in a single sitting, useful enough to justify making a dozen, and forgiving enough that even a beginner can produce something genuinely lovely. The Drawstring Purl Pouch is one of those projects that manages to feel both meditative and purposeful — the purl stitch creates a beautiful textured fabric, the drawstring closure is practical and elegant, and the finished object is endlessly giftable.

Whether you are looking for a jewelry bag, a gift pouch, a coin purse, a knitting notions holder, or just a satisfying weekend project, this knitting pattern has you covered. In this post, you will find everything you need: materials, abbreviations, gauge, cast-on instructions, the full pattern, finishing details, customization ideas, and tips for troubleshooting along the way.

Why Knit a Drawstring Purl Pouch?

Before diving into the pattern itself, it is worth spending a moment on why this particular project deserves a place in your knitting queue.

The purl stitch, when used as the primary stitch on the right side of work, creates a fabric with a beautiful bumpy, matte texture that feels rich and substantial in the hand. Unlike stockinette, which tends to curl at the edges, a fabric worked primarily in purls (or reverse stockinette) has a pleasing drape without the frustrating curl. For a small pouch, this means the fabric behaves itself beautifully during finishing.

The drawstring closure is another reason to love this design. It requires no buttons, no zippers, no clasps, and no special notions beyond a bit of cord or ribbon. You can thread a length of I-cord knitted from the same yarn, a piece of satin ribbon, a leather cord, a twisted cord, or even a length of decorative twine. This makes the pouch infinitely customizable.

From a skill-building perspective, this pattern is an excellent introduction to working in the round on double-pointed needles or a short circular needle, decreasing toward the bottom of a bag, and picking up stitches for an I-cord drawstring channel. It is suitable for adventurous beginners and makes a satisfying quick project for experienced knitters who want something portable and productive.

Materials You Will Need

Yarn: Approximately 50 to 100 yards of any yarn weight, depending on the size of pouch you want. This pattern works beautifully in fingering weight (for a delicate, small pouch) through worsted weight (for a chunkier, more rustic pouch). A yarn with good stitch definition will really allow the purl texture to shine — smooth wool, wool blends, and cotton are all excellent choices. Fuzzy or highly textured yarns will obscure the stitch pattern, so save those for another project.

Needles: Double-pointed needles (DPNs) or a 9-inch circular needle in the size appropriate for your chosen yarn. As a general guide: US size 1–3 (2.25–3.25mm) for fingering weight, US size 3–5 (3.25–3.75mm) for DK weight, US size 5–7 (3.75–4.5mm) for worsted weight.

Notions:

• Stitch marker (1)
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors
• Optional: a small piece of cardboard or a coin for blocking the bottom
• Ribbon, cord, or I-cord for drawstring (approximately 24 inches)

Gauge

Gauge matters somewhat for this pattern, but because a pouch is not a fitted garment, you have more flexibility than you would with a sweater. The size of your finished pouch will vary based on your gauge and the weight of yarn you choose, which is actually a feature rather than a bug — you can make tiny pouches for rings and earrings, medium pouches for small gifts, and larger pouches for knitting notions just by adjusting your yarn weight and needle size.

As a reference point for a medium pouch in worsted weight: 18 stitches and 24 rounds per 4 inches in stockinette on US size 6 needles. The purl fabric will be very slightly denser.

To make a specific size, knit a small gauge swatch, measure your stitches per inch, and then calculate the number of cast-on stitches needed to achieve your desired circumference.

Finished Dimensions

Using worsted weight yarn and US size 6 needles at the gauge above, this pattern produces a pouch approximately 5 inches tall and 4 inches wide (circumference of about 8 inches). Adjust yarn weight and needle size to scale up or down.

Abbreviations

• CO — cast on
• k — knit
• p — purl
• pm — place marker
• sm — slip marker
• k2tog — knit two together (a right-leaning decrease)
• ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
• p2tog — purl two together
• rep — repeat
• rnd(s) — round(s)
• RS — right side
• WS — wrong side
• CO — cast on
• BO — bind off
• dpns — double-pointed needles

Pattern Notes

This pouch is worked from the top down, beginning with a simple eyelet round that creates the channel through which your drawstring will pass. The body is then worked in reverse stockinette (purl every round when working in the round) to create that signature purl texture on the outside. The bottom is shaped with simple decreases and then gathered and closed.

When working in the round, purling every stitch on every round creates reverse stockinette — that is, the bumpy purl side faces outward. This is intentional and gives the pouch its beautiful textured appearance.

If you prefer a smooth stockinette exterior, simply knit every stitch on every round instead of purling. The pattern structure remains exactly the same.

The Drawstring Purl Pouch Knitting Pattern

Setup

Using a long-tail cast on (or your preferred stretchy cast on), CO 36 stitches. Distribute evenly across your dpns (12 stitches per needle on 3 dpns, or 9 stitches per needle on 4 dpns) or place on your short circular needle. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round.

Eyelet Round (Drawstring Channel)

Round 1: K2, k2tog, yo; rep from to end of round. (36 sts)

This creates a series of small eyelets evenly spaced around the top of the pouch. The yarn-overs create holes through which your drawstring will pass. The k2tog balances the yarn-over so your stitch count remains the same.

Round 2: Knit all stitches.

Rounds 3–4: Purl all stitches.

These two rounds of purl form a small purl ridge that frames the eyelet row and provides a neat transition into the body of the pouch.

Body

Rounds 5 through 34: Purl all stitches.

Work even in purl (reverse stockinette) for 30 rounds. This is the main body of your pouch. If you want a taller or shorter pouch, simply add or subtract rounds here. Each round you add will add approximately 1/6 inch of height in worsted weight yarn.

As you work, the purl fabric will develop a beautiful pebbly texture. This is one of those satisfying stretches of knitting where you can let your mind wander because the work itself is rhythmic and predictable.

Bottom Decreases

Now you will shape the bottom of the pouch using a series of simple decreases. Before beginning the decrease rounds, rearrange your stitches if necessary so you have 6 stitches on each of 6 dpns, or simply note that you will be working decrease rounds that reduce the stitch count significantly each time.

Round 35 (Decrease Round 1): P4, p2tog; rep from to end. (30 sts)

Round 36: Purl all stitches.

Round 37 (Decrease Round 2): P3, p2tog; rep from to end. (24 sts)

Round 38: Purl all stitches.

Round 39 (Decrease Round 3): P2, p2tog; rep from to end. (18 sts)

Round 40: Purl all stitches.

Round 41 (Decrease Round 4): P1, p2tog; rep from to end. (12 sts)

Round 42: Purl all stitches.

Round 43 (Decrease Round 5): P2tog; rep from to end. (6 sts)

Closing the Bottom

Cut your yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Thread the tail through a tapestry needle and draw it through the remaining 6 live stitches, slipping them off the knitting needle as you go. Pull the tail firmly to close the bottom of the pouch. Pass the needle through the center of the gathered stitches once more to secure, then weave the tail to the inside of the pouch and trim.

Finishing

Weaving In Ends

Thread your cast-on tail onto a tapestry needle and weave it securely into the wrong side of the fabric near the top edge of the pouch. Trim neatly.

Making the Drawstring

You have several options for the drawstring:

Option 1 — I-cord: Using two dpns and the same yarn, CO 3 stitches. Work I-cord for approximately 20 to 24 inches (or whatever length you prefer). Bind off. An I-cord drawstring gives a cohesive, fully knitted look and is a wonderful skill to practice.

To work I-cord: Knit 3 stitches. Without turning your work, slide the stitches back to the right end of the needle. Pull the yarn firmly across the back and knit again. Repeat until the cord reaches your desired length. The pulling of the yarn across the back is what causes the tube to form.

Option 2 — Twisted Cord: Cut two lengths of yarn approximately three times the desired finished length of your drawstring. Hold them together, anchor one end, and twist the other end in one direction until the strands are tightly twisted. Fold in half, allow the cord to twist back on itself, and tie a knot at the end. This creates a pleasingly rustic, handmade cord.

Option 3 — Ribbon or Store-Bought Cord: A length of satin ribbon, leather cord, or decorative twine threaded through the eyelets can dress up the pouch beautifully and takes no additional knitting time at all.

Threading the Drawstring

Using a tapestry needle or a blunt safety pin attached to one end of your drawstring, thread it through the eyelets around the top of the pouch. Make sure both ends emerge from the same eyelet (or from eyelets right next to each other) on the same side of the pouch so that when you pull, the pouch closes evenly.

Tie a knot at each end of the drawstring to prevent it from pulling all the way through the eyelets.

Blocking

While not strictly necessary, blocking your pouch will even out the stitches and give the finished object a polished look. Wet blocking works beautifully for wool: soak the pouch in cool water for 20 minutes, gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring), and shape while damp. You can insert a small round object — a rolled-up sock, a ball of fiber fill, or even a small round container — to help the pouch keep its shape as it dries.

Customization Ideas

One of the great joys of a small, simple pattern like this one is how much room it leaves for personalization. Here are some ideas to spark your creativity:

Striping: Because this pattern is worked in the round with a simple, repetitive stitch, it is ideal for color work. Try stripes in two or three colors for a playful, cheerful effect. Carry the unused yarn loosely up the inside of the pouch to avoid cutting and weaving in extra ends.

Colorwork: If you are comfortable with stranded colorwork, the body rounds are a perfect canvas for a simple two-color motif — a row of hearts, stars, geometric diamonds, or even simple initials.

Adding a Lining: For a pouch that will hold jewelry or other delicate items, consider sewing a simple fabric lining. Cut a piece of lining fabric slightly smaller than the interior of the pouch, sew it into a tube, and slip stitch it to the inside of the top edge. This gives the pouch a couture feel and protects the contents from snagging on the knitted fabric.

Embellishment: Once your pouch is finished, the textured purl fabric takes embellishment beautifully. Try embroidering a small motif in a contrasting color using duplicate stitch, adding a few beads or buttons, or attaching a small charm to the drawstring ends.

Size Variations: Cast on 24 stitches for a tiny ring pouch, 48 stitches for a gift bag, or 60 stitches for a small project bag. Adjust your needle size and yarn weight alongside the stitch count to achieve different textures and densities.

Stitch Pattern Variations: While the purl texture is the star of this pattern, you could substitute seed stitch, moss stitch, or even a simple rib for the body. Seed stitch (alternating knit and purl stitches in a checkerboard pattern) gives a particularly beautiful textured fabric that looks wonderful in a smooth, single-ply yarn.

Tips for Knitting Success

Managing Double-Pointed Needles: If you are new to dpns, the first few rounds can feel awkward and fiddly. This is completely normal and passes quickly once you get into your rhythm. The trick is to ignore the needles you are not currently working with and focus only on the two in your hands. After a few rounds, the knitting itself will stabilize the needles and things will feel much more manageable.

Avoiding Laddering: Laddering refers to a column of loose stitches that can appear where you transition from one dpn to the next. To avoid it, give an extra firm tug on the first stitch of each new needle and occasionally rotate which needle you are on relative to the round join.

Keeping Track of Rounds: A simple paper and pen tally works perfectly for this project. Mark off each round as you complete it, especially during the decrease section, where it is easy to lose track of how many decrease rounds you have worked.

Yarn Tension: The purl stitch can be slightly tighter or looser than knit for many knitters. If your gauge seems off when working the purl rounds, try going up or down a needle size to compensate.

Joining Yarn: If you run out of yarn partway through and need to join a new ball (unlikely with this small project, but possible if you are using fingering weight and knitting a larger version), join at the beginning of a round rather than mid-round and weave both ends securely into the wrong side.

Yarn Recommendations

For the best results, choose a yarn that highlights the purl texture. Here are some qualities to look for:

A single-ply or lightly twisted yarn will show beautiful stitch definition. Smooth, plied wools in the worsted or DK weight range are a classic choice. Superwash wool is convenient because the finished pouch can be machine washed. Cotton gives a crisp, cool-feeling pouch that is lovely for warm-weather gifting and works beautifully for a jewelry or cosmetic pouch. Wool-cotton blends offer the best of both — warmth and drape from the wool, crispness and stitch definition from the cotton. Luxury fibers like cashmere, alpaca blends, or merino wool make the pouch feel genuinely indulgent, which is wonderful if you are making it as a gift.

Gift Giving Ideas

The Drawstring Purl Pouch makes an exceptional handmade gift, and part of its charm is that it can be filled or presented in so many ways. Fill it with a small bottle of essential oil, a bar of artisan soap, or a few specialty chocolates for a thoughtful hostess gift. Use it as a jewelry gift bag when presenting a piece of jewelry to a friend. Tuck a gift card inside for a more personal alternative to a paper envelope. Make several in different sizes and use