Drawstring Bag Knitting Pattern: Your Complete Guide to Knitting a Bucket Bag Purse, Easy Knit Pouch, Vintage Reticule, and Small Crossbody Handbag
There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a bag. Unlike a sweater that takes months or a shawl that demands endless rows of counting, a knitted bag comes together quickly, looks impressive when finished, and actually gets used every single day. Whether you are brand new to knitting or have been at it for decades, a drawstring bag knitting pattern is one of the most rewarding projects you can cast on. It is portable, practical, and endlessly customizable — and the finished object doubles as a handmade accessory that people will stop and ask you about.
This guide walks you through everything you need to know about knitting a drawstring bag from start to finish. We will cover the yarn and needles you need, the step-by-step pattern for a classic knit bucket bag purse, tips for turning it into a vintage reticule bag or a small crossbody handbag, and advice for beginners who want an easy knit pouch they can finish in a weekend. By the time you reach the end of this post, you will have all the knowledge you need to cast on, knit up, and carry your very own handmade bag with pride.
Why Knit a Bag? The Case for This Classic Project
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth talking about why a knitted bag deserves a place on your project queue. Knitted bags have been around for centuries. The vintage reticule — a small drawstring pouch carried by women in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries — is one of the earliest examples of functional knitted accessories. These small, elegant bags were often knitted in silk or fine cotton and embellished with beads, embroidery, or lace edgings. They were status symbols as much as they were practical objects, and they represent a long tradition of craft meeting fashion.
Today, knitted bags are experiencing a genuine revival. You see them in high-end boutiques, on fashion runways, and in the hands of makers who have rediscovered the pleasure of carrying something they made themselves. The bucket bag silhouette — roomy, round-bottomed, cinched at the top with a drawstring — is especially popular right now, and it translates beautifully into knitting. A knit bucket bag purse has the kind of slouchy, textured look that feels both contemporary and timeless.
For beginners, a drawstring bag or easy knit pouch is an ideal first project because it requires very few techniques. You need to know how to cast on, knit, purl, and cast off. If you can do those four things, you can make a bag. More experienced knitters can use the same basic structure and elevate it with cables, colorwork, lace, or intricate textures. The bag grows with your skills.
Materials You Will Need
One of the best things about this pattern is that it is genuinely flexible. You can adjust the yarn weight, needle size, and dimensions to get a bag that suits your exact needs. Below is what you will need for the classic version of this drawstring bucket bag.
Yarn: Approximately 200 to 250 yards of worsted weight yarn (Category 4). Cotton, linen, or a cotton-blend yarn works beautifully for bags because these fibers have very little stretch, which means your bag will hold its shape. Wool is also lovely if you want a softer, more flexible bag. For a vintage reticule look, consider a silk-blend or a fine merino. For a sturdy everyday tote, a cotton or jute yarn is ideal.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) circular needles, 16 inches long, or double-pointed needles in the same size. You will also need a set of double-pointed needles in US size 6 (4.0mm) for the bottom of the bag if you want a tighter base.
Additional supplies: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers, a measuring tape, scissors, and approximately one yard of ribbon, cord, or I-cord in a coordinating color for the drawstring. If you are making a small crossbody handbag, you will also need a swivel clasp and a length of chain or a pre-made bag strap.
Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Gauge matters more for bags than many knitters expect, because a bag that is too loose will sag and stretch out of shape, while one that is too tight will be stiff and uncomfortable to use.
Understanding the Structure of a Knit Drawstring Bag
Before you begin knitting, it helps to understand how the bag is constructed. This pattern works from the bottom up. You begin by casting on stitches for the circular base, increase outward in rounds to create the flat bottom disk, then pick up and work upward along the sides in a tube. Near the top, you create eyelets for the drawstring, work a simple hem or picot edge, and then thread your cord or ribbon through to cinch the bag closed.
This construction method is forgiving, intuitive, and gives you a great deal of control over the finished size of your bag. Want a larger bucket bag? Simply increase the number of cast-on stitches and add more rounds to the sides. Want a tiny vintage reticule? Work fewer rounds and use a finer yarn. The logic stays the same regardless of scale.
The Pattern: Classic Drawstring Bucket Bag
Finished Dimensions
Approximately 10 inches wide and 9 inches tall (before drawstring is cinched), with a base diameter of about 6 inches. This is a generous everyday bag. See the modification notes below for sizing up or down.
Abbreviations
CO = cast on, K = knit, P = purl, K2tog = knit two together, M1L = make one left, PM = place marker, SM = slip marker, BO = bind off, RS = right side, WS = wrong side, st(s) = stitch(es), rnd(s) = round(s).
Part One: The Base
Using double-pointed needles or the magic loop method with your circular needles, CO 8 stitches. Distribute evenly across four needles if using DPNs, or place a stitch marker and join to work in the round.
Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: (K1, M1L) repeat to end of round — 16 stitches.
Round 3: Knit all stitches.
Round 4: (K2, M1L) repeat to end of round — 24 stitches.
Round 5: Knit all stitches.
Round 6: (K3, M1L) repeat to end of round — 32 stitches.
Round 7: Knit all stitches.
Round 8: (K4, M1L) repeat to end of round — 40 stitches.
Round 9: Knit all stitches.
Round 10: (K5, M1L) repeat to end of round — 48 stitches.
Round 11: Knit all stitches.
Round 12: (K6, M1L) repeat to end of round — 56 stitches.
Round 13: Knit all stitches.
Round 14: (K7, M1L) repeat to end of round — 64 stitches.
Round 15: Knit all stitches.
Round 16: (K8, M1L) repeat to end of round — 72 stitches.
You should now have a flat circular base with 72 stitches. If your gauge is correct, this base will measure approximately 6 inches in diameter. If it is too small, work one or two more increase rounds in the same pattern (adding one more knit stitch before the M1L each time).
Part Two: The Sides
Switch to your 16-inch circular needles if you have not already. You will now work straight up in stockinette (knit every round) to create the body of the bag.
Continue knitting every round until the sides measure approximately 8 inches from where the base ends and the sides begin. This is the point where the bag transitions from the flat disk to a vertical tube. If you prefer a taller bag, continue to your desired height. If you want a shorter, wider pouch, stop a little earlier.
At this stage you can introduce texture if you like. A simple seed stitch pattern (alternating K1, P1 and offsetting every other round) gives the bag a lovely nubbly texture and makes it look more substantial. Ribbing along the sides will draw the bag in slightly and give it a neat, structured look. Stockinette left to its own devices will roll at the top unless you add a border treatment, which we will address next.
Part Three: The Drawstring Channel
The drawstring channel is worked over 8 rounds and creates the casing through which your cord or ribbon will pass. This section also stabilizes the top of the bag and prevents rolling in stockinette.
Round 1: Purl all stitches (this creates a turning ridge).
Rounds 2 through 4: Knit all stitches.
Round 5 (eyelet round): (K6, K2tog, yarn over) repeat to end of round. You should have one eyelet approximately every 8 stitches around the top of the bag.
Rounds 6 through 8: Knit all stitches.
Round 9: Purl all stitches (second turning ridge).
Bind off all stitches loosely. A stretchy bind-off such as the yarnover bind-off or the Russian bind-off will give you a cleaner, more elastic edge.
Fold the drawstring channel inward at the turning ridges and use your tapestry needle to whipstitch the bound-off edge to the inside of the bag, being careful to keep your stitches aligned with the eyelets so that the channel is open and the cord can pass through freely.
Part Four: The Drawstring
Cut two lengths of cord, ribbon, or I-cord, each approximately 30 inches long. Thread one through every eyelet around the bag, starting and ending at the same eyelet so that both ends of that cord emerge from the same hole. Thread the second cord through the same eyelets in the opposite direction, starting and ending at the eyelet directly opposite. When you pull both cords simultaneously, the bag will cinch closed evenly from two directions, which is the hallmark of a well-made drawstring bag. Tie the ends of each cord together in a simple overhand knot or add a bead or button to the ends for a decorative touch.
Variations and Modifications
The Easy Knit Pouch
If you are new to knitting and want a simpler version of this pattern, skip the circular bottom entirely. Cast on 72 stitches, join in the round, and knit straight up for 7 or 8 inches. Then work the drawstring channel as described above. For the bottom, thread your tapestry needle with a long tail of yarn and use a gathering technique: weave the needle in and out of each live stitch, then pull tight to gather the bottom closed. This method eliminates the need for any shaping or circular bottom construction and results in a charming gathered pouch that is just as functional and even faster to knit.
The Vintage Reticule Bag
To recreate the look of the historical reticule, use a much finer yarn — a fingering weight or laceweight in silk, cotton, or a fine merino blend. Reduce your needle size accordingly (US size 1 or 2) and work the same pattern at a smaller scale. A reticule typically measures about 5 to 7 inches wide and 4 to 6 inches tall. You can also add a beaded edging by stringing small seed beads onto your yarn before you begin and sliding them into position as you work the eyelet round. A silk ribbon in a contrasting color makes a gorgeous drawstring for a reticule and gives it that authentic nineteenth-century charm.
The Knit Bucket Bag Purse
For a larger, more structured bucket bag that can genuinely replace an everyday handbag, scale everything up. Use bulky weight yarn (Category 5 or 6) on US size 10 or 10.5 needles. Work more increase rounds at the base to get a wider, flatter bottom — aim for a diameter of about 8 inches. Knit the sides to a height of 10 or 12 inches. The result is a roomy, sturdy bucket bag that holds everything you need for a day out. Linen or cotton in a bulky weight gives this bag an especially clean, modern look. You can also add interior pockets by sewing in a small piece of fabric or a ready-made zipper pouch before attaching the lining.
The Small Crossbody Handbag
To convert this drawstring bag into a small crossbody handbag, you need to make a few simple adjustments. First, instead of threading a drawstring through the eyelets, sew two small D-rings or O-rings securely to opposite sides of the bag at the top edge. Thread your cord through just the top layer of eyelets and tie it off so that it acts as a decorative ruffle rather than a functional drawstring. Then clip a length of chain or a pre-made adjustable bag strap to the D-rings. You can find these hardware pieces at any craft store or online for just a couple of dollars. The result is a small, structured crossbody bag that sits neatly against the hip and closes securely at the top.
Tips for a Beautiful Finished Bag
Blocking makes an enormous difference to a knitted bag, especially one worked in cotton or linen. Wet the finished bag thoroughly, squeeze out the excess water in a towel, and then shape it firmly over a bowl or bag form of the appropriate size. Allow it to dry completely — this can take 24 to 48 hours — and you will find that the fabric opens up, the stitches become more even, and the bag holds its shape much better.
If your bag is worked in wool and you are worried about it stretching, you have a couple of options. You can felt the finished bag by running it through a hot wash cycle, which will shrink and mat the fibers into a dense, sturdy fabric. Alternatively, you can sew a simple fabric lining and tack it to the inside of the bag. A lining prevents stretching, covers any untidy yarn ends, and gives the bag a professional, polished finish.
For the drawstring, avoid anything too slippery. Satin ribbon looks beautiful but tends to loosen and slip out of knots. A waxed cotton cord, a twisted cotton rope, or a hand-knitted I-cord all hold their knots well and have enough texture to stay in place.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does this bag take to knit? For an average knitter working in worsted weight yarn, the bag takes roughly 6 to 10 hours from cast-on to finished object. That is easily achievable over a couple of evenings or a lazy weekend.
Can I use this pattern for a knitting video or tutorial? Absolutely — this pattern lends itself beautifully to video content because each stage is visually distinct and easy to demonstrate. The base, the sides, the drawstring channel, and the finishing are four natural segments that make a satisfying tutorial video.
Can I sell items made from this pattern? This is a pattern you have worked from for personal use, and the items you knit are yours to sell, gift, or keep. Always check the terms of any commercial pattern you purchase, but handmade items produced from a free pattern like this one are generally yours to do with as you please.
What if my gauge is off? If your bag is coming out too large, go down a needle size. If it is coming out too small, go up a needle size. Gauge in bags is more forgiving than in garments, but a significant gauge difference will affect both the size and the drape of the finished object.
Final Thoughts
A drawstring bag knitting pattern is one of those projects that quietly becomes a staple. Once you have knitted one, you will find yourself returning to the basic structure again and again — adjusting the yarn, playing with the texture, trying a new colorway, or scaling it up into a full-sized knit bucket bag purse. It is the kind of project that teaches you a great deal about construction in a short amount of time, and the finished object is something you will genuinely use.
Whether you are drawn to the practicality of an easy knit pouch, the historical romance of a vintage reticule bag, the modern ease of a small crossbody handbag, or the satisfying heft of a proper knit bucket bag, this pattern has something for you. Cast on, enjoy the process, and wear your finished bag with the particular pride that only comes from making something beautiful with your own hands.
