How to Make a DIY Laundry Tote: The Only Guide You’ll Ever Need

There’s something deeply satisfying about carrying your laundry in a bag you made yourself. Whether you’re heading to a shared laundry room, the laundromat down the street, or simply moving clothes from room to room, a well-made laundry tote is one of those functional items that earns its keep every single week. Unlike the flimsy mesh bags that come apart after a few trips or the plastic hampers that crack in the cold, a handmade laundry tote is sturdy, washable, customizable, and — best of all — you made it yourself.

This guide walks you through everything you need to know to create your own DIY laundry tote from scratch, including the materials you’ll need, step-by-step instructions, helpful tips for beginners, ideas for customization, and answers to the most common questions people have along the way.

Why Make Your Own Laundry Tote?

Before we get into the how, let’s talk about the why. You might be wondering if it’s really worth the effort when you could just buy a laundry bag for a few dollars at any big-box store.

The truth is, store-bought laundry bags are almost always made from the cheapest possible materials, with weak seams and handles that give out right when you’re carrying a full load down a flight of stairs. A homemade tote, on the other hand, is built to your specifications. You choose the fabric, the size, the handle length, and the style. You reinforce the seams the way you want them. And when it eventually wears out — which will take much longer — you know exactly how to make another one.

There’s also the sustainability angle. Making your own tote from canvas, denim, or upcycled fabric keeps material out of landfills and reduces your dependence on disposable or low-quality products. Many people use this project as a great introduction to sewing, since it requires only basic skills but produces something genuinely useful.

Finally, a handmade laundry tote makes a wonderful gift. Personalize it with someone’s initials, their favorite colors, or a fun print, and you’ve got a practical, thoughtful present for a college student heading off to their first apartment, a newlywed, or anyone who would appreciate something made with care.

What Kind of Fabric Works Best?

Choosing the right fabric is the single most important decision you’ll make for this project. Laundry totes need to handle weight, friction, washing, and repeated use. Here’s a breakdown of the most popular options.

Canvas is the gold standard for laundry totes. It’s heavy, durable, holds its shape, and comes in a wide variety of weights and colors. A 10 to 12 ounce canvas is ideal — heavy enough to carry a full load without sagging, but not so stiff that it’s hard to sew. Canvas washes beautifully and gets softer with each use without losing structural integrity.

Denim is another excellent choice, especially if you have old jeans you’d like to repurpose. Heavy denim has the same weight-bearing qualities as canvas and adds a casual, stylish look to your finished tote. Upcycling denim is one of the most satisfying ways to use this project as a zero-waste exercise.

Duck cloth is essentially a tighter-woven, slightly heavier version of canvas. It’s extremely durable and has a slightly smoother surface, which makes it easier to print or paint on if you want to add designs later.

Burlap works in a pinch and has a charming rustic look, but it frays easily and doesn’t wash as cleanly as canvas or denim. If you go with burlap, you’ll want to finish all raw edges carefully.

Upholstery fabric or heavy home décor fabric can also produce beautiful totes with interesting textures and patterns, though these fabrics can be more expensive and occasionally trickier to work with.

For this tutorial, we’ll use canvas as our primary fabric since it’s the most accessible, forgiving, and durable choice for most sewers.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Gathering everything before you start makes the process much smoother. Here’s your complete list.

For the fabric and structure, you’ll need about one and a half yards of canvas fabric in a weight between 10 and 12 ounces. If you want a lined tote, pick up an additional yard of lighter-weight cotton fabric for the lining. You’ll also need about two yards of nylon webbing or sturdy cotton canvas strapping in one and a half to two inch width for the handles.

For sewing, you’ll want heavy-duty thread in a color that matches or complements your fabric. All-purpose polyester thread works, but upholstery thread is even better for the stress points around the handles. You’ll need sewing pins or fabric clips, a fabric marker or tailor’s chalk, a ruler or measuring tape, fabric scissors or a rotary cutter with a cutting mat, and an iron with an ironing board.

For the sewing machine, make sure yours can handle multiple layers of canvas. A denim or heavy-duty needle — size 16 or 18 — is essential. If your machine has a walking foot, use it. Walking feet are designed for thick fabrics and prevent the layers from shifting as you sew.

Optional but helpful: a seam ripper for fixing mistakes, beeswax to run along your thread to prevent tangling and strengthen it, wonder clips instead of pins for thick layers, and a bodkin or safety pin if you plan to thread any elastic or drawstring.

Cutting Your Fabric: Getting the Dimensions Right

A standard laundry tote that works well for one person’s weekly wash typically measures about 18 inches wide, 22 inches tall, and 10 inches deep. This gives you enough room for a full load without being so large it becomes unwieldy. Feel free to scale these dimensions up or down based on your needs.

From your canvas, cut two rectangles measuring 18 by 22 inches for the front and back panels. Then cut two rectangles measuring 10 by 22 inches for the side panels. Cut one rectangle measuring 18 by 10 inches for the bottom panel.

If you’re making a lining, cut the same pieces from your lining fabric.

For the handles, cut two pieces of webbing or strapping, each measuring 24 to 28 inches. Longer handles let you carry the tote over your shoulder; shorter ones are better for hand-carrying. If you’re unsure, 26 inches is a comfortable middle ground.

Press all your fabric pieces with a hot iron before you start sewing. Pressing removes wrinkles, makes it easier to line up edges accurately, and actually helps the finished bag hold its shape better.

Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

With your pieces cut and pressed, you’re ready to start sewing. Take your time with each step, and don’t skip the pressing between stages — it makes a real difference in how clean and professional the finished tote looks.

Step one: Sew the side panels to the front and back panels. With right sides facing together, pin one 10-by-22-inch side panel to one long edge of an 18-by-22-inch front panel. Sew along that edge using a half-inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the other side panel to the opposite long edge of the front panel. Then attach both free edges of the side panels to the back panel in the same way. When you open this up, you’ll have a long rectangular strip with the front, back, and two sides connected.

Step two: Attach the bottom panel. With right sides still facing together, pin the 18-by-10-inch bottom panel to the bottom edge of the front panel. Sew along that edge. Then sew the adjacent bottom edges to the side panels, clipping into the seam allowance at the corners so the fabric lies flat. Finally, attach the remaining bottom edge to the back panel. You now have a box shape with an open top.

Step three: Clip and trim the corners. At each bottom corner, trim across the seam allowance diagonally to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut through your stitching. This step makes the corners crisp and square when the bag is turned right side out.

Step four: Finish the seams. If your machine has a zigzag stitch or you have a serger, run all the raw seam edges through to prevent fraying. Canvas can fray significantly over time and with washing, so this step adds years to your tote’s life.

Step five: Turn right side out and press. Reach inside the bag and pull it right side out through the open top. Use a blunt tool like a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil to push the corners out fully. Press the entire bag with your iron, taking extra care at the seams and corners.

Step six: Prepare the top hem. Fold the raw top edge of the bag down by one inch toward the inside. Press this fold. Then fold it down again by another inch and press again. Pin or clip this double fold in place all the way around the opening.

Step seven: Attach the handles. Position one handle strap on the front panel of the bag, centering it so the two ends are each about four inches in from the sides. Tuck each end of the strap down into the folded hem by about one inch so that the strap end is sandwiched between the layers of the hem. Pin the ends securely. Repeat with the second handle on the back panel.

Step eight: Topstitch the hem and secure the handles. Sewing through all layers, topstitch around the entire top hem close to the bottom folded edge. This closes the hem and anchors the handle ends in place. Then go back and stitch a second row close to the top edge of the hem for extra reinforcement. For additional strength at the handles specifically, stitch a small rectangle or an X pattern over each handle end through all the layers of fabric. This is the stress point that will take the most weight, so it’s worth being thorough here.

Adding a Lining

If you cut lining pieces, now is the time to put them to use. Construct the lining the same way you constructed the outer bag, but leave a gap of about four to five inches along one side seam — you’ll use this gap to turn everything right side out at the end.

With the outer bag right side out and the lining inside-out, slip the lining over the outer bag so the right sides face each other and the top raw edges are aligned. Pin them together around the opening. Sew around the entire top opening with a half-inch seam allowance.

Now pull the outer bag through the gap you left in the lining. The whole thing will come right side out. Push the lining down inside the outer bag, poke the corners out neatly, and press the top opening so the seam sits right at the edge. Slipstitch or machine stitch the gap in the lining closed, tuck the lining inside, and topstitch around the top opening of the bag to finish everything cleanly.

The result is a polished, professional-looking tote with no exposed raw edges inside and a much cleaner finish overall.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own laundry tote is the opportunity to make it entirely your own. Here are some ideas worth trying.

Iron-on vinyl or fabric paint lets you add names, monograms, or graphics to the outside of the bag before you assemble it, which is much easier than trying to decorate a finished three-dimensional object. Bleach pen designs on dark canvas create beautiful tie-dye-like patterns. Fabric stamps and fabric ink can cover an entire panel with a repeating motif.

Pockets are another popular addition. A zippered or slip pocket on the inside of the tote is perfect for storing a laundry card, detergent pods, dryer sheets, or coins for machines. Sew the pocket onto one of your lining panels before assembling the lining.

If you want a drawstring closure to keep clothes contained during transport, skip the simple hem at the top and instead sew a channel by folding the top edge down twice and leaving two small gaps in your topstitching. Thread a length of nylon cord or cotton rope through the channel using a safety pin, and knot the ends together or attach cord stops.

For a different handle approach, you can create fabric handles from the same canvas as the bag rather than using webbing. Cut two strips four inches wide and about 28 inches long. Fold each strip in thirds lengthwise, press well, and topstitch along both long edges. These fabric handles have a softer, more woven-looking finish compared to webbing.

Tips for Beginners

If this is one of your first sewing projects, a few extra pointers will help you get a cleaner result and avoid the most common frustrations.

Go slowly when sewing through multiple layers of canvas. Many home machines can handle it, but forcing the fabric through too quickly can cause skipped stitches or even break your needle. Let the machine do the work at its own pace. If your machine has a hand wheel, use it to manually lower the needle through particularly thick spots at seam intersections.

Press everything, always. Ironing between steps sounds tedious, but it genuinely changes the quality of the final product. Pressed seams lie flat and make subsequent sewing more accurate. A well-pressed bag looks professionally made even if your sewing isn’t yet perfect.

Backstitch at the start and end of every seam. Canvas and webbing carry real weight, and you don’t want any seams coming open after a few weeks of use. A few extra stitches of backstitching at stress points costs nothing and adds significant durability.

Test your stitch length and tension on a scrap of doubled canvas before you start sewing the actual pieces. For heavy canvas, a slightly longer stitch length — around 3 to 3.5mm — often gives cleaner results than a shorter one.

Caring for Your Handmade Laundry Tote

Once your tote is finished, caring for it properly will keep it looking great and functioning well for years. Canvas laundry totes can go right in the washing machine on a cool or warm cycle — just turn the tote inside out first if you’ve added any painted or iron-on decorations. Use a gentle detergent and avoid bleach unless your canvas is white and you intentionally want to brighten it.

Air dry whenever possible. Tumble drying on high heat can shrink canvas and weaken the stitching over time. Hang the tote by its handles or lay it flat to dry. Once dry, a quick press with the iron restores its shape perfectly.

If a seam starts to come open, repair it immediately before it unravels further. A small repair done quickly stays small. Left alone, a little fraying becomes a big problem.

Making Your First One Won’t Be Your Last

Once you complete your first DIY laundry tote, you’ll almost certainly want to make more. The project is fast enough that you can knock one out in an afternoon, but satisfying enough that it feels like a real accomplishment. You’ll start seeing fabric and thinking about what it could become, and friends who see your tote will ask where you got it and be surprised to learn you made it yourself.

That’s really the magic of making things by hand. The object itself is useful, but the practice of making — the problem-solving, the measuring, the slow accumulation of skill — is something that stays with you and grows. A laundry tote is a humble starting point, but there’s nothing humble about mastering it.