Crochet Mesh Tote Bag | Free Pattern & Video Tutorial

There is something undeniably satisfying about carrying a bag you made yourself. It holds your groceries, your beach towels, your farmers market finds — and every time someone asks where you got it, you get to say “I made it.” The crochet mesh tote bag is one of those projects that never goes out of style. It is practical, beautiful, beginner-friendly enough to finish in a weekend, and endlessly customizable. Whether you are just starting your crochet journey or you have been crocheting for years and want a quick, rewarding make, this pattern is for you.

In this post, you will find a complete free pattern with step-by-step written instructions, stitch counts, tips for customizing the size and yarn, and a video tutorial walkthrough to guide you through every section. Grab your hook and your favorite yarn, and let’s get started.

What Makes the Mesh Tote Bag So Popular?

The open mesh structure of this bag is its defining feature. The large holes created by chain spaces and double crochet stitches give the bag that airy, lightweight feel that makes it perfect for warm weather use. Unlike solid fabric bags, a mesh tote breathes — which is wonderful when you are filling it with fresh produce, storing yarn (meta, but true), or heading to the pool.

Beyond practicality, the mesh stitch has an elegant visual rhythm to it. Rows of evenly spaced diamonds or squares form a lattice that looks far more complex than it actually is. Most people who see this bag finished are surprised to learn how simple the construction really is.

This pattern uses a continuous round construction for the body of the bag, which means no seaming and a smooth, even fabric all the way around. The base is worked flat and then joined, and the handles are reinforced with slip stitch edging for durability. The whole thing comes together in a way that feels intuitive once you understand the mesh pattern repeat.

Materials You Will Need

Before casting on, gather everything you need so your work flows without interruption.

Yarn: Approximately 200–250 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn (size 4). Cotton is the classic choice for tote bags because it is sturdy, washable, and holds its shape well. It also has a beautiful drape that suits the open mesh structure. Popular options include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), or Paintbox Simply Cotton Worsted. You can also use jute twine or a cotton-jute blend for a more rustic look with added stiffness.

Hook: US Size J / 6.0mm crochet hook. You can go up to a 6.5mm if you prefer a slightly looser mesh or if your tension tends to run tight.

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (optional but helpful for marking the beginning of rounds), and a tape measure.

Gauge: Approximately 12 stitches and 7 rows in double crochet = 4 inches. Gauge is not critical for a tote bag, but keeping your tension consistent will ensure an even mesh. If your bag turns out smaller than expected, go up a hook size. If it is too large and floppy, go down a size.

Finished Size: Approximately 13 inches wide and 14 inches tall (before handles), with handles adding roughly 10–12 inches. This makes a generously sized everyday tote. For a smaller market bag, simply work fewer rounds.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

This pattern uses US crochet terminology.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
ch-sp — chain space
rep — repeat
rnd — round
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side

The mesh stitch in this pattern is created by alternating double crochet stitches with chain-2 spaces. Each chain-2 space counts as a stitch when working subsequent rounds. This creates the open grid pattern that gives the bag its signature look.

Free Pattern Instructions

Part One: The Base

The base of the tote is worked in flat rows and then joined into a circle to form the foundation for the body.

Foundation chain: Chain 31.

Row 1: Dc in the 4th chain from the hook (the skipped chains count as dc), dc in each chain across. You will have 29 dc total. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), dc in each stitch across. Turn. (29 dc)

Rows 3–6: Repeat Row 2. (29 dc per row)

After Row 6, do not turn. You will now work around the entire base, picking up stitches along both long sides and the short ends to create a rectangle.

Joining round: Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire perimeter of the base. Work 3 sc in each corner to keep the corners flat and prevent puckering. Join with a sl st to the first sc to complete the round. Do not turn.

The number of sc on each side will vary slightly depending on your tension, but aim for roughly 29 sc along each long edge and 6 sc along each short end. Adjust as needed to keep the base lying flat.

Part Two: The Body

The body is worked in continuous rounds in the mesh stitch pattern. You will join at the end of each round and begin the next with a chain. Do not turn your work; the right side always faces you.

Round 1 (setup round): Ch 3 (counts as dc), skip 1 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc; rep from around, ending with ch 2, sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Count your ch-2 spaces. You should have approximately 23–25 chain spaces across the round, depending on your exact stitch count from the base. Do not worry if your number differs slightly — what matters is that the spaces are evenly distributed.

Round 2: Sl st into the first ch-2 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2; rep from around, sl st to top of beginning ch-3 to join.

Rounds 3–18: Repeat Round 2. Each round builds the mesh lattice upward.

By Round 18 you will have a bag body that stands approximately 12–14 inches tall. If you want a taller bag, simply add more rounds. If you want a shorter bag, stop a few rounds earlier. The mesh pattern is infinitely stackable.

After the final body round, do not fasten off. You will proceed directly to the top edging.

Part Three: The Top Edging

The top edging stabilizes the opening of the bag and gives it a clean, polished finish. It also creates the anchor points for the handles.

Edging Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each dc and 2 sc in each ch-2 space around the entire top opening. Sl st to the first sc to join. This will fill in the mesh gaps and create a solid row of single crochet.

Edging Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Sl st to join.

Edging Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Sl st to join.

After three rounds of single crochet edging, your top border should be approximately half an inch to three-quarters of an inch deep. This gives the handles a solid base to attach to without adding excessive bulk.

Fasten off and weave in the end securely.

Part Four: The Handles

The handles are worked flat in rows and then attached to the bag using a slip stitch seam for durability. You will make two handles.

For each handle:

Foundation chain: Chain 7.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across. (6 sc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the handle measures approximately 20–22 inches, or your desired length. A 20-inch handle is a good length for carrying the bag over the shoulder or in the crook of the arm.

After completing the final row, do not fasten off.

Reinforcing slip stitch edge: Sl st along one long edge of the handle, then continue sl st across the short end and back up the other long edge. This wraps the edge of the handle with a firm, polished sl st border that makes it sturdier and more comfortable to grip.

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing.

Attaching the handles:

Fold the handle in half lengthwise (or simply hold it flat) and align the short ends on the inside of the bag, roughly 3–4 inches in from each side of the bag opening. The handles should be centered on the front and back panels of the bag, not placed at the very corners.

Using the long tail and your yarn needle, sew the short ends of each handle firmly to the inside of the bag’s top edging rows, stitching in a square or rectangle pattern and then sewing an X through the center of the square. This X stitch distributes the weight of the bag across more attachment points and is a classic handle-reinforcement technique used in bag making.

Repeat for the second handle on the opposite panel.

Weave in all remaining ends securely.

Video Tutorial

For those who prefer to follow along visually, there is a full video tutorial accompanying this pattern. The video walks you through each section in real time — the flat base construction, joining the base into the round, the mesh pattern repeat, the top edging rows, and the handle construction and attachment. You can pause, rewind, and follow at your own pace, which is especially helpful for the joining round on the base and for the transition between the edging and the mesh body.

The video tutorial is embedded below. If you are reading this on mobile and the embed is not displaying, you can find the tutorial on YouTube by searching the title of this post.

Tips for Customizing Your Mesh Tote

One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it adapts. Here are some ways to make it your own.

Change the color: A single-color bag has a clean, modern look, but you can also change colors after every few rounds of the body for a striped effect. Because the joins fall at the same place in each round, stripes are easy to manage with minimal ends to weave in.

Add a lining: If you plan to carry small items or anything that might fall through the mesh holes, consider sewing a simple fabric lining. Cut a rectangle of fabric slightly smaller than the finished bag dimensions, fold and press the edges, and hand-sew or machine-sew it to the inside of the bag along the top edging. A lining also protects the bag from stretching under heavy loads.

Adjust the mesh size: For a smaller, tighter mesh (better for small items), use ch-1 spaces instead of ch-2 spaces in the body rounds, and skip only one stitch between double crochets. For a larger, more open mesh (lovely as a produce bag or beach bag), use ch-3 spaces and skip three stitches.

Swap the yarn weight: A thicker yarn like bulky weight (size 5 or 6) worked with a 9mm or 10mm hook will create a stiffer, chunkier bag that works up incredibly fast. A finer weight yarn like fingering or sport worked with a 3–4mm hook will create a delicate, lacy-looking market bag perfect for farmers markets.

Try jute or twine: Natural jute or a cotton-jute blend gives the bag a beautiful earthy, handmade aesthetic. Note that jute is less elastic than cotton, so your stitches may feel tighter. Go up a hook size if you are transitioning from cotton to jute.

Use the bag as a gift: This pattern makes a wonderful handmade gift. A mesh tote filled with a bottle of wine, a jar of jam, some fresh produce, or a bundle of yarn makes a thoughtful and personal present. The bag itself becomes part of the gift.

Finishing and Blocking

Blocking a cotton crochet bag is optional but genuinely transformative. Wet blocking — soaking the finished bag in cool water, gently squeezing out the excess water without wringing, and then laying the bag flat to dry over a towel or foam blocking mat — opens up the mesh holes, evens out any tension inconsistencies, and gives the whole thing a crisp, professional look.

If you want the bag to hold a specific shape, stuff it with plastic bags or a small box while it dries. This is especially useful if you notice any bunching or gathering at the sides.

Cotton dries relatively quickly, so blocking is not a huge investment of time and the results are worth it.

Storing and Caring for Your Tote

Cotton crochet bags are wonderfully practical from a care standpoint. Most cotton yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in cool water. Check the label on your specific yarn to confirm. Lay the bag flat to dry rather than hanging it, as hanging a wet bag can stretch the straps and distort the shape.

Over time, cotton will soften with washing, which gives the bag an even nicer hand feel. A well-cared-for cotton tote can last for years and even decades.

A Few Words About Sustainability

Choosing to crochet your own tote bag is a small but meaningful step toward reducing reliance on single-use plastic bags. A sturdy handmade bag that you use again and again — for groceries, the library, the beach, the farmers market — has a much lower environmental footprint over its lifetime than disposable alternatives. When you make it yourself from natural cotton or jute, you also know exactly what it is made of, which matters to a lot of people thinking carefully about what they bring into their homes.

There is also something to be said for the simple pleasure of the making itself. An afternoon spent crocheting a bag that you will use every week for years is an afternoon very well spent.

Share Your Finished Bag

If you make this tote, please share your finished project! You can tag your photos and leave a comment below with any questions, modifications you made, or yarn choices you loved. Seeing how other makers interpret the same pattern — different colors, different yarns, different sizes — is one of the great joys of the crochet community.

Happy crocheting, and enjoy your beautiful new bag.