Crochet Mesh Tote Bag | Free Pattern & Video Tutorial
There is something deeply satisfying about making your own bag. It starts as a skein of yarn, transforms through your hands into something both beautiful and useful, and then goes out into the world carrying your groceries, your library books, your beach towel, your everything. The crochet mesh tote bag is one of those projects that feels like a gift you give yourself — it works up faster than you expect, it looks far more impressive than the skill level demands, and when someone stops you on the street to ask where you got it, you get to say you made it yourself.
This free pattern will walk you through every step of creating a classic open-mesh tote bag with sturdy handles and a satisfying drape. Whether you are a beginner who has just learned your basic stitches or an experienced crocheter looking for a quick, satisfying make, this project is a perfect fit. Keep reading for the full written pattern, notes on yarn substitutions, tips for customizing the size, and links to the step-by-step video tutorial.
Why You Will Love This Crochet Mesh Tote Bag
Before we dive into the pattern, let’s talk about why the mesh tote bag has become such a beloved staple in the crochet community.
First, it is incredibly functional. The open mesh structure means the bag stretches to accommodate whatever you are carrying, whether that is a head of lettuce and a bunch of kale or a pair of sandals and a paperback novel. It is breathable, which makes it ideal for produce since your fruits and vegetables won’t sweat the way they would inside a plastic bag. It is also lightweight, so you can stuff it into your purse or pocket before heading to the farmers market and pull it out when you need it.
Second, it is eco-friendly. Every time you use your handmade tote instead of a single-use plastic bag, you are making a small but meaningful choice for the environment. Cotton yarn, in particular, is a natural fiber that is biodegradable and far gentler on the planet than synthetic alternatives.
Third, it is a gorgeous project. The mesh stitch creates an open, lacy fabric that looks elegant while remaining sturdy. It drapes beautifully and shows off the natural texture of your yarn. Made in a solid color, it looks clean and modern. Made in multiple colors, it looks playful and bold.
And fourth, it is a genuinely achievable project for crocheters at almost any level. If you know how to chain, make a single crochet, and work a double crochet, you have everything you need to complete this bag.
Materials You Will Need
To make this crochet mesh tote bag, you will need the following supplies.
Yarn: Approximately 200 to 250 yards of a worsted weight cotton yarn. Cotton is the classic choice for tote bags because it is durable, washable, and holds its shape over time. Some wonderful options include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), Paintbox Simply Aran, or any similar cotton or cotton-blend yarn. You can absolutely use a recycled cotton yarn if sustainability is a priority for you — the texture tends to be slightly more rustic, which many people find charming.
Hook: A 5mm (H/8) crochet hook works well with most worsted weight cotton yarns. If your tension runs tight, size up to 5.5mm or even 6mm to achieve a looser, more open mesh. If your tension runs loose, size down to 4.5mm. Always swatch when in doubt.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and stitch markers if you like to use them. Optional but helpful is a row counter, especially if you are prone to losing track.
Gauge: Gauge matters slightly for this project in terms of final size, but it is not critical the way it would be for a fitted garment. Approximately 14 stitches and 8 rows in a 4-inch square in double crochet is a reasonable target. The bag is easy to adjust in size simply by working more or fewer chains at the start and more or fewer rows in the body.
Pattern Notes
This bag is worked in the round from the bottom up. The base is a flat oval, and the body is worked in a simple chain-space mesh that creates the open, stretchy structure of the tote. The handles are worked separately and joined at the end, or you can work them as an extension of the bag body — both methods are explained below.
The pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout. A quick reference: ch means chain, sl st means slip stitch, sc means single crochet, dc means double crochet, sp means space, and rep means repeat.
The Free Pattern
Foundation: The Oval Base
Begin by creating the base of your bag. This flat oval will form the bottom, giving the bag structure and stability.
Chain 21. This is your foundation chain.
Row 1: Work 3 dc in the 4th chain from the hook. Then dc in each of the next 16 chains. Work 7 dc in the last chain. Now rotate to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain: dc in each of the next 16 chains. Work 3 more dc in the same chain where you started. Join with a slip stitch to the top of your first dc. You should have an oval with rounded ends.
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in the same stitch. Work 2 dc in each of the next 3 stitches (these are the increases at the first curved end). Dc in each of the next 16 stitches across the long side. Work 2 dc in each of the next 7 stitches (the increases at the second curved end). Dc in each of the next 16 stitches across the remaining long side. Work 2 dc in each of the remaining 3 stitches. Join with a slip stitch. You are building the oval wider with each increase round.
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next stitch. Repeat [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] three times across the first curved end. Dc in each of the 16 stitches along the first long side. Repeat [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] seven times across the second curved end. Dc in each of the 16 stitches along the second long side. Continue to match increases across remaining stitches. Join with a slip stitch.
Work one more increase round following the same logic, staggering your increases so they fall evenly and the base lies flat without buckling. If your base starts to ruffle, you have increased too many times. If it cups upward, work another increase round. A flat oval base is what you are aiming for before moving into the body.
Body: The Mesh Section
This is where the magic happens. The mesh body is worked in a simple chain-two space pattern that creates the open, stretchy, beautiful fabric of the tote.
Round 1 (Transition Round): Ch 5 (counts as dc plus ch 2), skip 2 stitches, dc in next stitch, ch 2, skip 2 stitches — repeat from * around the entire round. Join with a slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning ch 5.
Rounds 2 through 15: Ch 5 (counts as dc plus ch 2), dc in next dc, ch 2 — repeat from * all the way around. Join with a slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning ch 5.
That is truly all there is to the mesh body. Each round you are working a dc into the dc of the previous round, with a chain-2 space between each. The fabric grows quickly, and after a few rounds you will find a satisfying rhythm. Continue working these rounds until the body of your bag measures approximately 10 to 12 inches from the top of the base to the top of the last round, or until you are happy with the depth of your bag.
If you want a shallower bag, stop at 10 inches. If you want a deep market bag, keep going to 14 or even 16 inches — just make sure you have enough yarn.
Top Edge
Before working the handles, you want to create a firm, clean top edge that will stabilize the bag and give the handles a solid place to attach.
Edge Round 1: Ch 1, sc in every dc and 2 sc in every chain-2 space around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc.
Edge Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Handles
The handles are the most important structural element of the bag because they carry all the weight of your load. You have two good options here.
Option A — Attached Handles: Identify the center front of your bag and count approximately 10 to 12 stitches to the left of center. Join your yarn here with a slip stitch. Ch 55 (or more if you want longer handles — 55 chains gives you a comfortable shoulder-length handle). Skip 20 to 24 stitches along the top of the bag and attach the other end of the chain to the bag with a slip stitch. Work back along the chain: sc in every chain stitch all the way back to the start. Work a second round of sc along the same handle to reinforce it. Join with a slip stitch and fasten off. Repeat the entire process on the back of the bag to create the second handle, centering it on the back as you did on the front.
Option B — Longer Shoulder Handles: If you prefer a longer handle that hangs more like a market bag you can sling over your shoulder, chain 70 to 80 instead of 55 and follow the same process.
Reinforce the attachment points by weaving your yarn tail back through several stitches at both ends of each handle. This is especially important if you plan to carry heavy loads. For extra security, you can use your yarn needle to work a few extra stitches through the base of each handle attachment by hand.
Finishing
Weave in all remaining ends securely using your yarn needle. If you used cotton yarn, you can wet block the finished bag to even out the stitches and open up the mesh beautifully. Simply soak the bag in cool water for about fifteen minutes, gently press out the excess water in a towel, and lay it flat or shape it over a bowl to dry.
Sizing Guide and Customization
One of the best things about this pattern is how easy it is to customize. Here are some common adjustments.
To make a smaller produce bag, use a DK weight cotton yarn and a 4mm hook, and reduce your foundation chain to 11 and your body rounds to 8 or 10. The finished bag will be delicate and lovely and perfect for carrying a few apples or a head of garlic.
To make a large beach bag, use a bulky cotton rope yarn and a 6mm or 6.5mm hook. Increase your foundation chain to 31 or more and work 18 to 20 body rounds. The finished bag will be substantial enough to hold a beach towel, sunscreen, a water bottle, and all the other essentials.
To add color, you can change yarn colors at the beginning of any round in the body section. Even a simple two-color stripe pattern creates a striking effect in the mesh fabric. Try alternating every two rounds between two complementary colors for a classic market bag look.
To add a lining, cut a piece of fabric to match the interior dimensions of your finished bag, fold over and hem the top edge, and hand-stitch it inside the bag. A lining helps the bag hold its shape and prevents small items from slipping through the mesh.
Video Tutorial
If you are a visual learner, the accompanying video tutorial walks you through every step of this pattern in real time. Watching the foundation oval being built, seeing how the mesh rounds develop their rhythm, and observing the handle construction from start to finish can make all the difference, especially if you are newer to working in the round or to oval bases.
The video covers how to hold your tension for an even mesh, how to count your chain-two spaces as you go around to avoid accidentally adding or losing stitches, and how to reinforce the handles for maximum strength. It also shows how to block the finished bag and what a difference blocking makes to the final appearance. You will find the video linked at the top and bottom of this page.
Tips for Success
A few things worth knowing before you cast on.
Tension is everything with mesh projects. If you pull your chains too tight, your mesh will pucker and the spaces will be small and uneven. Try to maintain a loose, relaxed tension through your chain stitches specifically. Some crocheters find it helps to hold the hook slightly differently during the chain portions of the mesh — whatever it takes to keep those chains airy and open.
Count your stitches at the end of every few rounds, especially while you are getting the hang of the mesh pattern. It is very easy to accidentally work into a chain space instead of the dc stitch above it, which throws your count off. If you get to the end of a round and something feels off, count back and find where the error happened rather than continuing on and hoping it resolves itself.
Use stitch markers liberally. Placing a marker at the beginning of each round saves so much confusion, especially once the bag is a few inches tall and the beginning of round is harder to identify visually.
Caring for Your Bag
Cotton yarn bags are wonderfully easy to care for. For most cotton yarns, machine washing on a gentle cycle with cold water is perfectly safe. Lay the bag flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer, which can cause shrinkage and distortion in the mesh. If the bag gets a bit misshapen after washing, simply re-block it while it is still damp.
Final Thoughts
The crochet mesh tote bag is one of those projects that reminds you why you fell in love with crochet in the first place. It is portable enough to take anywhere, quick enough to finish in a weekend, practical enough to use every single day, and beautiful enough to make you proud every time you pull it out of your closet. It makes an exceptional gift for anyone who appreciates handmade items — and the fact that it costs just a few dollars in materials and a few hours of your time makes it one of the most generous projects in your crafting repertoire.
If you make this bag, I would love to see your finished project. Share a photo in the comments below, tag me on Instagram, or post it in our community crochet group. And if you found this pattern helpful, please consider sharing it with a friend who crochets or saving it to your favorite Pinterest board so you can find it again later.
Happy hooking — and may your mesh always lie flat on the first try.
