Crochet Makeup Bag: Complete Steps for the Base, Sides & Zipper
If you’ve ever wanted to make a practical, beautiful crochet project that you’ll actually use every single day, a crochet makeup bag is one of the best places to start. It combines satisfying structure with creative freedom, and once you understand how the base, sides, and zipper all work together, you’ll find yourself making them as gifts, for travel, and for every corner of your home. This guide walks you through each part of the process in detail — from choosing your materials to sewing in that final zipper — so you can complete a polished, professional-looking makeup bag from start to finish.
Why Crochet a Makeup Bag?
Before diving into the steps, it’s worth appreciating why this project has become so popular among crochet makers of all skill levels. Unlike decorative items, a crochet makeup bag has real, everyday function. You can customize the size to fit a small lipstick collection or a full set of brushes and palettes. You can choose cotton yarn for a clean, washable finish, or use a sturdy acrylic blend for extra durability. And because you’re building it in three distinct stages — the base, the sides, and the zipper — the project feels manageable even when you’re new to structured crochet construction.
There’s also something deeply satisfying about the geometry. A flat base worked in rows or in the round creates a firm foundation, and then the sides rise up naturally from that foundation, giving the bag its shape and volume. The zipper finishes the whole thing with a clean closure that keeps your makeup secure. When all three elements come together, the result looks like something you’d buy in a boutique shop rather than something you made at your kitchen table.
Materials You’ll Need
Getting your materials right before you begin will save you a lot of frustration. Here’s what to gather:
Yarn: Cotton yarn is the most popular choice for makeup bags because it’s firm, holds its shape, and is easy to wash. Look for a medium weight (worsted or DK) cotton in whatever color or combination suits you. You’ll need approximately 150 to 250 yards depending on the finished size you want. Mercerized cotton gives a particularly smooth finish and a slight sheen that looks beautiful in the final product.
Hook: Match your hook size to your yarn’s recommended gauge. For most worsted cotton, a 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm hook works well. You want your stitches to be firm and tight so the bag holds its structure and doesn’t let small items fall through.
Zipper: A 7-inch or 9-inch zipper works well for most standard makeup bags. Nylon coil zippers are easy to sew and come in a wide range of colors so you can match or contrast with your yarn.
Lining fabric (optional but recommended): A simple cotton lining fabric prevents small items from catching on your stitches and gives the inside of the bag a clean, finished look. You’ll need a small piece — just slightly smaller than your bag dimensions.
Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends and, if you choose, hand-sewing the zipper.
Sewing needle and thread: Matching the color of your zipper tape will give you the cleanest finish when attaching the zipper.
Stitch markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of rounds if you’re working in the round.
Scissors and measuring tape: Always have these on hand.
Understanding the Structure
A crochet makeup bag is essentially a rectangular box with an open top that gets closed by a zipper. It has three structural components:
The base is the flat rectangular piece you work first. It determines the length and width of the finished bag. A base of roughly 8 inches by 4 inches will give you a medium-sized bag that fits most everyday makeup items.
The sides are worked directly off the base, picking up stitches along all four edges and building upward in rounds. This is where the bag gets its depth and where the fabric gains its final texture, depending on the stitch pattern you choose.
The zipper is attached last, hand-sewn or machine-sewn to the top edge of the bag after the sides are complete. It’s the finishing element that transforms your crocheted rectangle into a functioning pouch.
Step One: Crocheting the Base
The base is the foundation of your bag, so it’s worth taking your time to get it right. A slightly uneven base will cause the sides to grow unevenly, so consistency here pays off throughout the whole project.
Starting chain: Chain 21. This will give you a base of approximately 8 inches using worsted cotton on a 4.0 mm hook. Adjust your starting chain if you want a different length — always check your gauge swatch first.
Row 1: Single crochet into the second chain from the hook and into each chain across. You’ll have 20 single crochet stitches. Chain 1, turn.
Rows 2 through 12: Single crochet into each stitch across. Chain 1, turn at the end of each row.
After 12 rows, your base should measure approximately 4 inches in width. This gives you an 8 x 4 inch rectangle.
Finishing the base: Do not fasten off. You’ll be picking up stitches directly from the base to begin the sides.
A note on stitch tension: Many crocheters naturally work their turning chains a bit loosely, which can create a slight lacy edge along the sides of the base. To avoid this, try pulling your turning chain slightly tighter, or use a half chain (working into the back bump of the chain) to keep the edges crisp and even.
Step Two: Building the Sides
This is where your flat base transforms into a three-dimensional bag, and it’s also where many crocheters feel a rush of excitement as the structure literally rises in their hands. You’ll be working in continuous rounds around the perimeter of the base, picking up stitches along all four edges.
Setting up the first round: With your hook still in the last stitch of the base, rotate your work and begin picking up stitches along the short edge. Single crochet evenly along the 12 rows of the short edge — approximately 12 stitches. At the corner, work 2 stitches into the corner stitch to keep the angle clean. Continue along the bottom of the original foundation chain, working 20 single crochet stitches along this edge. Work 2 stitches into the corner, pick up 12 stitches along the remaining short edge, work 2 stitches into the final corner, and then work across the top edge of the base (the row you just finished), placing 20 single crochet stitches. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round.
You should have approximately 72 stitches in this first round, though your count may vary slightly depending on how evenly you pick up edge stitches. Don’t worry about a stitch or two of difference — just make sure the sides look even visually as you work.
Rounds 2 through 8: Work in continuous rounds of single crochet, moving your stitch marker up each round. For a bag with about 3 inches of depth, work approximately 7 to 8 rounds. If you want a deeper bag, add more rounds until you reach your desired height.
Choosing a stitch pattern for the sides: While single crochet gives you a dense, sturdy fabric that works very well for the sides of a bag, you might also consider:
Half double crochet, which works up faster and gives a slightly softer, more drapey fabric. This is a great option if you’re using a thicker yarn.
A moss stitch (alternating single crochet and chain stitches) creates a lovely texture that feels artisanal and shows up beautifully in photographs.
A simple ribbing created by working into only the back loop of each stitch throughout the side rounds. Back loop only ribbing stretches slightly and gives the bag a distinctive raised line texture that many people love.
Whatever stitch pattern you choose, maintain the same number of stitches in every round (no increases or decreases) to keep the sides perfectly straight.
Finishing the sides: When you’ve reached your desired height, slip stitch into the first stitch of the final round to close, chain 1, and fasten off. Weave in your ends carefully using your tapestry needle, working the tails back and forth through several stitches to secure them firmly.
Step Three: Attaching the Zipper
The zipper is where many crocheters feel a bit of hesitation, especially if they’re not confident with sewing. But this step is much more approachable than it seems, and even a slightly imperfect zipper attachment is usually well-hidden once the bag is in use. Here’s how to do it cleanly.
Preparing the zipper: If your zipper is longer than the opening of your bag, shorten it by sewing a few stitches across the zipper tape at the point where you want the new stop to be, then cutting off the excess about half an inch past your stitches. This prevents the zipper pull from coming off the end.
Pinning the zipper: Lay your bag flat and open the zipper fully. Place one side of the zipper tape face-down along the inside top edge of one long side of the bag, lining up the zipper coil with the very top edge of your crochet stitches. Pin it in place, keeping the coil as close to the top edge as possible. This positioning is important — if the zipper sits too low, the bag won’t close properly; too high and the crochet edge will bunch under the zipper pull.
Sewing the first side: Using a sewing needle and thread that matches the zipper tape (not the yarn), sew the zipper tape to the top edge of the bag using a simple whipstitch or backstitch. Stitch through the zipper tape and through the top loop of the crochet stitches, keeping your stitches even and snug. Work all the way from one end of the zipper to the other.
Attaching the second side: Close the zipper and flip the bag to work on the second long side. Align the second half of the zipper tape with the top edge of this side and pin it carefully, making sure the bag opening lines up evenly. Open the zipper slightly to check that the two sides meet symmetrically, then adjust if needed. Sew this side the same way as the first.
Finishing the ends: At each end of the zipper, take a few extra stitches through both the zipper tape and the corner edge of the bag to reinforce the attachment. These ends take the most stress each time the zipper is opened and closed, so a little extra reinforcement here will significantly extend the life of your bag.
Optional: Adding a Fabric Lining
A lining is optional but highly recommended. It gives the inside of the bag a polished look, prevents small items from snagging on the crochet stitches, and adds a layer of structure that helps the bag stand upright.
Cut two pieces of fabric to match the interior dimensions of your bag — the length and height of one long side, plus a seam allowance of about half an inch on all sides. Sew the pieces together along the bottom and both short sides using a sewing machine or by hand, leaving the top edge open. Fold the top edge down by half an inch and press it flat with an iron.
Slide the lining inside the bag, matching the top folded edge of the lining to the inside edge of the zipper tape. Pin the lining in place and hand-stitch it to the zipper tape using small, neat stitches. This conceals all the raw edges of the zipper attachment and creates a beautifully clean interior.
Sizing Variations
One of the best things about this pattern construction is how easily it adapts to different sizes.
For a lip balm and card holder style mini pouch, start with a chain of 12 and work only 6 rows for the base, with 4 to 5 rounds for the sides. Use a 5-inch zipper.
For a full-size travel bag that holds brushes, palettes, and skincare, start with a chain of 31 and work 16 rows for the base. Build the sides to 4 inches tall. Use a 12-inch zipper and consider working the sides in a sturdier half double crochet to handle the weight.
For a flat pencil case style, make the base longer and narrower — try a chain of 41 with only 6 rows of height for the base, and just 3 to 4 rounds for the sides.
Tips for a Clean, Professional Finish
Starting chain tension matters more than most crocheters realize. If your starting chain is too tight, the base will curl slightly. Try going up one hook size just for the starting chain, then switching back to your project hook for row 1.
Block your base before working the sides if it seems to want to curl. A quick spray with water and pinning it to a blocking mat for an hour will relax the fibers and give you a perfectly flat foundation.
Use locking stitch markers at the corners of your base as you work the first round of sides. This makes it much easier to keep track of where the corners are and ensures your increases are placed correctly each time.
Test your zipper attachment by opening and closing the zipper several times before you trim any thread tails. If the tension feels uneven or the bag puckers, it’s easier to restitch now than after everything is finished.
If you’re making multiple bags as gifts, mixing up the linings with coordinating fabrics while keeping the yarn color constant creates a beautiful matched set that feels intentional and cohesive.
Caring for Your Finished Makeup Bag
Cotton crochet items are wonderfully easy to care for. Your finished bag can be washed by hand or in a mesh laundry bag on a gentle machine cycle. Use cool water and a gentle detergent, reshape the bag while it’s still damp, and lay it flat to dry. Avoid tumble drying, which can shrink cotton yarn or distort the shape.
If the inside gets stained from makeup, a bit of dish soap on a damp cloth usually lifts cosmetic stains without any problem.
Final Thoughts
A crochet makeup bag made in three clear stages — base, sides, and zipper — is one of those projects that teaches you far more than just how to make a bag. It introduces you to three-dimensional crochet construction, working in the round from a flat base, and combining crochet with sewing for a truly finished result. Once you’ve made one, you’ll find yourself thinking about variations constantly: different yarn colors, different stitch textures, different sizes for different purposes.
Whether this is your first structured crochet project or your fiftieth, the process of seeing a flat rectangle of stitches rise into a proper, functional bag is one of the most satisfying feelings in the craft. Work through each step at your own pace, trust your tension, and don’t be afraid to adjust as you go. Your finished bag will be something genuinely useful, genuinely handmade, and genuinely yours.
