Crochet Bag Pattern – Zero Waste Tote Made from Scrap Yarn & Old Clothes

There is something deeply satisfying about finishing a project and knowing that nothing went to waste. If you have been crocheting for any length of time, you probably have a basket — or three — overflowing with yarn scraps, partial skeins in colors you barely remember buying, and odds and ends that feel too small to do anything meaningful with. And if you have been alive for any length of time, you probably also have a drawer full of old t-shirts, worn-out jeans, or fabric scraps that you cannot quite bring yourself to throw away. This project is the answer to both problems.

This zero waste tote bag pattern is designed specifically to use up what you already have. No pattern-perfect yarn required. No matching colors. No precise yardage calculations. Just creativity, a hook, and a commitment to making something beautiful out of materials that might otherwise end up in a landfill. The result is a sturdy, one-of-a-kind bag that tells a story — your story — in texture and color.

Let’s talk about everything you need to know to make this bag from start to finish.

Why Zero Waste Crocheting Matters

The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Fast fashion floods thrift stores with more clothing than can be resold, and even well-meaning crocheters contribute to waste when they toss short yarn ends or discard worn garments. Zero waste crocheting is a small but meaningful way to push back against that cycle.

When you transform old t-shirts into yarn, you are keeping fabric out of a landfill. When you join scrap yarn ends together instead of throwing them away, you are reducing the demand for new material. And when you carry a handmade tote to the grocery store instead of grabbing a plastic bag, you are making a statement with every errand.

This pattern embraces the patchwork aesthetic that comes naturally from mixing materials. Uneven color blocks, slight texture variations, and the visible seams where one yarn joins another are not flaws — they are the design. Think of it as wabi-sabi crocheting: the beauty of the imperfect and the incomplete made whole.

Materials You Will Need

One of the best things about this pattern is that the materials list is intentionally flexible. Here is what to gather before you begin.

Yarn scraps of any weight. Worsted and bulky work best for structure, but you can hold thinner yarns together to bulk them up. Aim for a combined total of roughly 300–500 yards, though the exact amount depends on your desired bag size. Colors, fiber types, and textures can all be mixed freely.

T-shirt yarn, either purchased or made at home from old cotton t-shirts. T-shirt yarn adds incredible durability and a beautiful stretchy texture that pairs wonderfully with traditional crochet yarn. You will need approximately 50–100 yards depending on how much you incorporate.

Fabric strips cut from old jeans, linen shirts, flannel, or any woven fabric. Cut these into strips about half an inch wide and join them end to end for a rugged, structural element that holds its shape beautifully when crocheted tightly.

A crochet hook in size 6 mm to 8 mm works well for most combinations of these materials. If you are working with very bulky fabric strips or multiple strands held together, go up to a 9 mm or 10 mm hook.

A yarn needle for weaving in ends and joining sections.

Scissors and optionally a rotary cutter and cutting mat if you plan to cut a lot of fabric strips.

Stitch markers to mark rounds and key placement points.

How to Make T-Shirt Yarn at Home

If you do not have purchased t-shirt yarn on hand, making your own is surprisingly simple and oddly satisfying. All you need is an old cotton t-shirt — the larger the shirt, the more yarn you will get.

Lay the t-shirt flat on a table and cut off the hem at the bottom and the sleeves and neckline at the top, leaving you with a rectangular tube of fabric. Fold the tube in half lengthwise, then cut horizontal strips about an inch wide all the way across the folded fabric, stopping about an inch from the folded edge so the strips stay connected. Unfold the tube, and you will see a connected ladder of loops. At the uncut spine along one side, cut diagonally between each strip to create one long, continuous piece of fabric. Stretch it gently between your hands and it will curl inward on itself, creating a smooth, rounded strand of yarn.

One adult large t-shirt typically yields 50 to 70 yards of yarn. The thicker you cut the strips, the bulkier the yarn and the faster it works up. For this bag, slightly thicker strips — around 1 to 1.5 inches wide — give the best structural results.

How to Prepare Fabric Strip Yarn

For woven fabrics like denim or flannel, the technique is slightly different because the fabric does not stretch and curl the same way jersey knit does. Cut your fabric into strips roughly half an inch wide, then join them end to end by cutting a small slit near the end of each strip and threading the next strip through, pulling the tail back through itself to create a lark’s head knot. This creates a continuous length of fabric yarn with small knots at regular intervals, which actually adds charm and texture to the finished fabric.

Wind your fabric strips into balls or small cakes for easy use. These tend to be bulkier than yarn, so a little goes a long way.

Pattern Notes and Gauge

Because this is a stash-busting, zero waste pattern, gauge is intentionally relaxed. The goal is a dense, sturdy fabric — you want your stitches tight enough that the bag holds its shape and does not stretch excessively when filled with groceries. If your swatch feels limp or see-through, go down a hook size. If it feels stiff and difficult to work, go up a hook size.

A rough target gauge using worsted weight yarn on a 6.5 mm hook is about 11 single crochet stitches and 12 rows per 4 inches. But since you will be mixing materials throughout, this is truly just a starting reference, not a strict requirement.

Abbreviations used in this pattern follow standard US terminology. Ch = chain. Sl st = slip stitch. Sc = single crochet. Hdc = half double crochet. Dc = double crochet. BLO = back loop only. St = stitch. Rnd = round.

The Pattern: Zero Waste Tote Bag

This bag is worked in the round from the bottom up, with a flat oval base that expands into straight sides and finishes with simple strap construction. The finished bag measures approximately 13 inches wide, 14 inches tall, and 5 inches deep before handles — a perfect grocery or market bag.

Part One: The Base

The base is a classic oval foundation, often called an oval magic ring or foundation oval. It creates a flat ellipse that forms the bottom of the bag.

Begin with your most structural yarn — this is a good place to use t-shirt yarn or thick fabric strips, since the base takes the most wear.

Chain 20. This forms the length of your oval.

Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc in each chain across — 19 sc. At the end of the chain, work 3 sc into the last stitch to curve around the bottom. Now work back along the other side of the foundation chain, sc in each chain across — 19 sc. Work 2 sc into the first stitch to complete the oval. Place a stitch marker. You now have 43 stitches in your first round.

Round 2: Work 2 sc into the first st, sc across 19 sts, work 2 sc into each of the 3 corner sts, sc across 19 sts, work 2 sc into the last 2 sts. You now have 49 stitches.

Round 3: Sc 1, 2 sc in next st, sc across 19 sts, [sc 1, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc across 19 sts, sc 1, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. You now have 55 stitches.

Round 4: Sc evenly around, working 2 sc into each of the 6 increase points from the previous rounds to continue the oval expansion. You now have 61 stitches.

Round 5: Continue to increase at the same 6 points. You now have 67 stitches.

At this point your oval base should measure approximately 13 inches by 5 inches. If you want a wider base, continue increasing for one or two more rounds. When you are happy with the size, stop increasing and begin the sides.

Part Two: The Sides

This is where the fun begins. The sides of the bag are where you will blend your scrap yarn together, change colors freely, and incorporate different textures. There are no rules here about color placement — work with whatever is at hand and let the bag develop its own personality.

Round 1 of sides: Work in BLO across all stitches. This creates a clean, defined ridge that separates the base from the sides. Single crochet all the way around. 67 stitches.

From this point, continue working in the round in both loops, changing yarn whenever you like or whenever one strand runs out. When joining a new yarn, simply hold the tail of the old yarn alongside your work for a few stitches and crochet over it to secure it, then trim. No weaving in required during the main construction if you do this carefully.

Work even (no increases or decreases) for approximately 30 to 35 rounds, or until your bag sides measure about 13 to 14 inches tall. The more varied your materials, the more textured and interesting these rounds will become.

Here are some ideas for adding interest to the sides without changing the basic stitch count. Work 3 to 4 rounds in single crochet, then switch to a round of half double crochet for a slightly taller, denser row. Try a round of back loop only single crochet every 5 to 6 rounds for subtle horizontal ridges. If you have enough of one yarn type, work a full color block of 5 or 6 rounds in a single shade before transitioning to scraps again. Use your denim or flannel strips in short sections of 2 to 3 rounds for a rugged band that adds structure.

There is no wrong approach here. The finished bag should look like a deliberate patchwork, so the more variation you incorporate, the better.

Part Three: The Top Edge

Once your sides have reached the desired height, it is time to stabilize the top opening. Using your most stable, consistent yarn (or a doubled strand of lighter scrap yarn), work 3 rounds of single crochet around the top opening without any increases or decreases. Pull slightly more firmly than you have been throughout the bag to create a sturdy rim that holds its shape.

Finish with a slip stitch and fasten off. Weave in this end carefully, as it will show at the top of the finished bag.

Part Four: The Handles

Simple rope handles work beautifully with this bag because they can be made entirely from scrap yarn using a braided or twisted cord technique, with no additional materials required.

For each handle, cut 12 strands of yarn, each approximately 60 inches long. Use a mix of colors and textures if you like, or choose two or three complementary shades. Hold all 12 strands together and tie a knot at one end. Divide the strands into three groups of four and braid firmly for the full length. Tie a knot at the other end. This creates a handle approximately 20 to 22 inches long.

To attach the handle, fold it so the two knotted ends meet. Using your yarn needle and a length of sturdy yarn, sew both ends securely to the inside of the top rim of the bag, centering them approximately 4 inches from the side seam. Make sure to stitch through several layers of the top rim and pass back and forth through the knot at least 4 to 5 times for security. Repeat for the second handle, placing it on the opposite side of the bag at the same measurements.

Alternatively, if you prefer crocheted handles, you can work two chains of approximately 80 stitches each, fold them in half lengthwise, and slip stitch them together along their length. This creates a flatter, more finished-looking handle. Attach the same way.

Finishing and Care

Once your handles are attached, give the bag a gentle inspection. Tuck in any remaining tails using your yarn needle. If any fabric strip knots are visible in a distracting way, you can nudge them to the inside of the bag with the tip of your needle.

To block the bag lightly and help it hold its shape, fill it with a plastic bag stuffed with towels or packing paper, mist the outside lightly with water, and let it air dry completely. This relaxes the stitches and helps the oval base lie flat.

For washing, hand wash in cool water with a gentle soap, squeeze gently, and reshape while wet. Since the bag contains mixed fiber types — cotton t-shirt yarn, possibly wool or acrylic scrap yarn, and fabric strips — machine washing is not recommended, as different fibers behave differently when wet and heated.

Customization Ideas

This pattern is as much a framework as it is a finished design. Once you understand the structure, you can take it in dozens of directions.

Add a lining by cutting a simple cotton fabric lining to fit the inside of the bag and stitching it in by hand with a needle and thread. This gives the bag extra durability and covers any interior yarn tails.

Create a pocket by crocheting a small rectangle separately — approximately 20 stitches wide and 15 rows tall — and sewing it to the inside of the bag before or after lining.

Change the shape by using a circular foundation instead of an oval for a rounder bag, or a straight rectangular base for a boxy, structured tote.

Make a mini market bag by cutting the base oval in half — chain 10 instead of 20 — and working only 20 rounds on the sides for a compact produce bag that rolls up for storage.

Incorporate embellishments like surface slip stitch stripes in a contrasting color, sewn-on buttons, or a simple crochet flower made from leftover yarn tails.

A Few Final Thoughts on the Process

There is a kind of meditative pleasure in working through a stash. Each color you pull out carries a memory — the hat you made your nephew, the blanket that never quite got finished, the yarn you bought at a market in a city you loved. Crocheting those pieces into something new and useful is not just crafting. It is a small act of preservation, a way of honoring the materials and the moments they came from.

This zero waste tote bag will not look like anyone else’s zero waste tote bag. It will not look like a pattern photo or a Pinterest image. It will look like your yarn and your old shirts and your choices, and that is exactly what makes it worth making.

Carry it proudly. It is entirely one of a kind.