Crochet Another Duffle Bag With Me: How to Do the Side Circles

If you’ve been following along with my crochet duffle bag journey, welcome back. And if this is your first time landing here, get ready to fall in love with one of the most satisfying bag-making projects you’ll ever try. Today we’re diving deep into one of the most iconic and structurally important parts of the entire bag: the side circles. These round panels are what give a duffle bag its classic cylindrical shape, and once you understand how they work, you’ll feel confident tackling any circular crochet project that comes your way.

So grab your hook, pull out your yarn, and let’s get into it.

Why the Side Circles Matter So Much

Before we get into the actual steps, let’s talk about why these side circles deserve their own dedicated tutorial. A lot of beginners breeze past the circle instructions, assuming they’re just a decorative end cap. But the side circles are actually load-bearing panels. They determine the diameter of your bag, they affect how much volume your finished duffle can hold, and if they’re not crocheted evenly, the whole bag can pucker, ruffle, or bow in ways that are really hard to fix once everything is sewn together.

Getting the side circles right also means understanding how increases work in the round, how tension affects your gauge, and how to count your stitches carefully without losing your place. These are foundational skills that will carry over into every circular project you make after this — from flat baskets to hats to granny squares and beyond.

So yes, the side circles matter. A lot. And you’re going to nail them.

What You’ll Need for This Section

For the side circles specifically, here’s what I recommend having on hand before you start.

You’ll want a sturdy yarn with good stitch definition. I love using a cotton-blend or a chunky acrylic for this type of project because both hold their shape well and show off the stitch pattern beautifully. The yarn I used for my current bag is a size 5 bulky weight in a rich terracotta color, and honestly, the way it photographs makes me want to cry happy tears every time.

For hooks, match your hook size to your yarn label recommendations and then go down one size. Yes, on purpose. For bags, you want a slightly tighter gauge than the label suggests so the fabric is dense enough to hold structure. I typically use a 5.0mm or 5.5mm hook when the label says 6.0mm.

You’ll also need a stitch marker, a tapestry needle for weaving in your ends and eventually joining the circles to the main body, and scissors. That’s really it for this section.

A tip before we start: always make a gauge swatch when you’re making a bag. I know, I know. No one wants to hear it. But the diameter of your finished circle directly determines how wide your duffle bag is, and even half a centimeter off can make a big difference over the entire circumference of the bag body. Take ten minutes to swatch. You’ll thank yourself later.

Understanding Magic Rings

Almost every flat circle in crochet starts with either a magic ring or a chain-2 or chain-4 starting setup. For this duffle bag, I strongly recommend the magic ring method because it closes up tightly with no hole in the center, which gives your circles a much cleaner, more finished look.

If you’re unfamiliar with magic rings, here’s a quick breakdown. You loop the yarn around your fingers to create an adjustable loop, insert your hook through the center of that loop, pull up a loop, chain one (or more, depending on your stitch height), and then work your first round of stitches into the center of that ring. Once you’ve completed round one, you pull the tail end of the yarn to close the ring tight. The result is a perfectly closed center with no gap.

Practice the magic ring a few times on scrap yarn if it’s new to you. It feels awkward at first but becomes second nature very quickly.

How to Crochet the Side Circles: Step by Step

Now let’s actually make the circles. I’ll walk you through each round with clear stitch counts and explanations of why we do what we do at each step.

Starting Out

Begin with a magic ring. Chain two. This counts as your first double crochet stitch. Work eleven more double crochets into the center of the ring — that gives you twelve double crochets total in round one. Slip stitch to the top of your beginning chain-two to close the round. Pull the magic ring tail to close the center. You should have twelve stitches at the end of round one.

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each new round so you always know where your round begins. This is non-negotiable when crocheting circles. Losing track of your starting point is the number one reason circles go sideways.

Round Two

Chain two (counts as first double crochet). Work one more double crochet into the same stitch as your chain. That’s an increase. Then work two double crochets into each remaining stitch around. Slip stitch to close. You should now have twenty-four stitches.

In round two, you’re doubling the stitch count by working two stitches into every single stitch from round one. This is what makes the circle grow evenly without ruffling or cupping.

Round Three

Chain two, one double crochet in the same stitch (increase). One double crochet in the next stitch (no increase). Continue this pattern of one increase followed by one regular stitch all the way around. Slip stitch to close. Stitch count: thirty-six.

Do you see the pattern forming? Each round, you add one more “plain” stitch between your increases. This is the magic formula for a flat circle in crochet. Round one has twelve stitches. Round two doubles to twenty-four with an increase in every stitch. Round three goes to thirty-six with an increase every other stitch. Round four will have an increase every third stitch, giving you forty-eight. And so on.

Round Four

Chain two, one double crochet in the same stitch. One double crochet in each of the next two stitches. Repeat around. Slip stitch. Stitch count: forty-eight.

Round Five

Chain two, one double crochet in the same stitch. One double crochet in each of the next three stitches. Repeat around. Slip stitch. Stitch count: sixty.

Round Six

Chain two, one double crochet in the same stitch. One double crochet in each of the next four stitches. Repeat around. Slip stitch. Stitch count: seventy-two.

For most standard duffle bag sizes, a six-round circle worked in bulky weight yarn will give you a circle roughly eight to ten inches in diameter, which is perfect for a medium-sized bag. If you’re working with a lighter yarn or you want a bigger bag, continue adding rounds following the same formula — each new round adds one more plain stitch between increases and twelve more total stitches.

Measure your circle at this point. Lay it flat on a hard surface and measure straight across through the center. If it matches your intended bag diameter, you’re done with the increases. If you need it bigger, keep going.

How to Finish the Edge of Your Circle

Once your circle has reached the right size, you have a choice to make about the edge. Some patterns just leave the last round as is and move on to joining. But I love adding a final round of single crochets around the perimeter, worked through the back loop only. This creates a neat, raised edge that makes it much easier to join the circle to the bag body later, and it also gives the circle a little bit of extra structure around its rim.

To do this final round, simply switch to single crochet, work one single crochet into each stitch all the way around without any increases. Slip stitch to close and fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

If you want a really crisp, defined edge, you can also work a slip stitch round as the very last step. Slip stitches are tight and flat and give the edge a clean, almost piped look that photographs beautifully.

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Let’s troubleshoot the things that go wrong most often when crocheting circles, because they will come up and it’s better to know what to look for before it’s too late.

Your circle is cupping (curving upward like a bowl). This means you’re not increasing enough, which is usually caused by working at a tighter tension than the pattern expects. Try going up half a hook size or consciously loosening your tension as you work. If the cupping is severe, you may need to frog back and restart.

Your circle is ruffling (wavy around the edges). This is the opposite problem — too many increases or too loose a tension. Try going down a hook size, tightening your tension slightly, or (if your circle is only slightly ruffled) blocking it aggressively after finishing.

Your stitch counts are off. This almost always comes back to losing your starting stitch marker. Be ruthless about replacing your stitch marker at the beginning of each round. Also, count every single round before moving on to the next. It’s much easier to catch a mistake one round in than five rounds later.

Your circle looks twisted or uneven. This often happens when the chain-two beginning is treated differently from the other stitches. Some crocheters prefer to start rounds with a standing stitch instead of a turning chain to keep the beginning and end of each round looking consistent. If your circles look messy at the seam where each round starts and ends, a standing double crochet is worth learning.

Making Two Identical Circles

Here’s the thing about duffle bags: you need two side circles that are exactly the same size. This sounds obvious, but it’s easy to let your tension shift between the first and second circle, especially if you take a break in between. By the time you pick up again, you might be holding your yarn slightly differently, sitting in a different position, or just crocheting in a different mood — and all of those things affect tension.

The best way to ensure consistency is to work both circles in the same sitting if possible, or at least to use the same hook, the same yarn from the same skein if you can, and to count your stitches obsessively. Before you set down your first circle and pick up for the second, write down your round count and final stitch count somewhere you won’t lose it.

When both circles are done, hold them together face to face and see if the edges line up. If they match, you’re golden. If one is noticeably larger, you can sometimes compensate by working a slip stitch border around the smaller one, or by blocking the larger one to match.

Joining the Circles to the Bag Body

We’re not doing the full join in this tutorial — that’s its own whole post — but I want to give you a preview so you know what you’re working toward and can set up your circles to make that step as easy as possible.

When you join the side circles to the main bag panel, you’ll typically pin the circle to one end of the rectangular body piece with the right sides together (or facing the outside, depending on your method), and then work a slip stitch or single crochet seam all the way around. The stitch count on the circle’s perimeter should match the short end of your bag body rectangle. This is another reason gauge matters so much — if your circle’s perimeter doesn’t match the bag body’s edge, the join will either have gaps or pucker badly.

Some patterns have you seam with the wrong sides together so the seam is visible on the outside as a design detail. I actually love this look for bags because it gives them a handmade, artisanal quality that I think is really charming. But if you prefer a clean seam, work with the right sides facing.

Leave your yarn tails long when you fasten off — at least six inches — so you have enough to work with when seaming.

Blocking Your Circles

Before you do anything else with your finished circles, block them. Even if you’re using acrylic yarn, a good wet block or a light steam block will even out your tension, open up the stitches, and make the circle sit flat and true. For cotton or cotton-blend yarns, soaking in water and pinning to your blocking mat is the way to go. For acrylic, a damp cloth pressed with a warm iron or a light pass with a steamer works beautifully.

Pin the circle to your blocking mat at multiple points around the circumference, not just at the cardinal directions. Use as many pins as you need to get it lying perfectly flat and round. Let it dry completely before removing the pins.

Blocked circles look so much more professional and they’re so much easier to seam. This step takes maybe fifteen minutes of active time and then a few hours of drying, and the payoff is enormous.

A Few Creative Variations to Consider

Once you’re comfortable with the basic circle, there’s a whole world of ways to make your side circles more interesting and personal.

You could work the circles in a contrasting color to the rest of the bag for a pop of visual interest. Think a navy bag body with burnt orange circles, or a cream bag with forest green panels. The contrast really highlights the circular shape and makes the whole bag feel intentional and designed.

You could also try working some of the rounds in a textured stitch. A round or two of front-post and back-post double crochet will add a raised ribbed texture around the circle that looks incredible and adds a little extra rigidity to the panel.

Another option is to add an embroidered or surface slip-stitch motif to the finished circle before joining it to the bag. Flowers, initials, geometric patterns — anything you can draw, you can translate into embroidery on a crocheted surface. This makes each bag feel truly one of a kind.

You’re Ready to Keep Going

If you’ve followed along to this point, you now have two beautiful, evenly crocheted side circles ready to become part of your duffle bag. Give yourself a real moment to appreciate what you’ve made. These circles represent a solid understanding of working in the round, managing increases, and making two identical pieces — skills that honestly take some crocheters months to feel confident about.

In the next part of this series, we’ll tackle the main bag body panel, figure out how long to make it based on the circumference of your circles, and talk about handle options. Whether you want braided yarn handles, leather strap inserts, or sewn-in webbing, we’ll cover it all.

Until then, keep crocheting, keep counting, and don’t forget your stitch markers.