Celtic Weave Zippered Purse: Free Crochet Pattern
There is something undeniably special about the Celtic weave stitch. It carries the feeling of ancient craftsmanship — interlocking cables that seem to weave over and under each other in a way that looks almost impossibly complex until you sit down and actually work the stitch. The truth, as any crocheter who has tried it will tell you, is that the Celtic weave is far more approachable than it looks. And when you combine that textured beauty with a structured zippered purse, the result is a finished project that looks like it came from a high-end boutique rather than your own hook and yarn.
This free crochet pattern will walk you through every step of making your own Celtic Weave Zippered Purse from start to finish. Whether you are a confident beginner who has already tackled a few stitch patterns or an experienced crocheter looking for a project that shows off your skills, this purse hits the sweet spot. It is functional, durable, and absolutely stunning in person. Let’s get into everything you need to know.
A Little Background on the Celtic Weave Stitch
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it helps to understand the stitch you will be working with. The Celtic weave stitch — sometimes called the woven stitch or Celtic stitch — creates a series of interlocking panels that mimic the look of woven fabric or traditional Celtic knotwork. It is achieved primarily through a combination of front post double crochets and back post double crochets worked in alternating sequences over multiple rows.
What makes the stitch so visually impressive is that the raised ridges cross over each other, creating that signature woven or plaited look. Unlike traditional cable knitting, which requires complex needle work, the Celtic weave in crochet is built entirely with post stitches worked around previous rows — meaning the complexity is all visual. Once you understand the rhythm of the rows, your hands will begin to feel it naturally.
The stitch is also wonderfully sturdy. Because the post stitches wrap around the body of the fabric rather than just sitting on top, the resulting textile is thicker and more structured than plain crochet. This makes it ideal for bags, clutches, and purses that need to hold their shape.
Materials You Will Need
Gathering your materials before you start will make the whole process much smoother. Here is what you will need for this project:
Yarn: Approximately 200–250 yards of worsted weight yarn (size 4). Cotton or a cotton-blend yarn works especially well for bags because it holds its shape and wears well with daily use. Wool and acrylic blends are also lovely and will give the texture a slightly softer, more plush appearance. Choose a color you love — this stitch looks striking in a single solid or tonal color because the texture itself becomes the design.
Hook: A size 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook. Some crocheters prefer to go down half a size to 4.5 mm for a tighter, more structured fabric. If your gauge is loose, try the smaller hook.
Zipper: A 7-inch or 8-inch zipper in a color that complements your yarn. You can find these at fabric stores, craft stores, or online. A metal zipper has a beautiful weight and durability, but any standard zipper will work.
Lining fabric (optional but recommended): About a quarter yard of cotton fabric in a coordinating color or pattern. Lining your purse protects the inside and gives it a polished, professional finish.
Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, straight pins or clips for assembling the zipper, and a hand-sewing needle and thread for attaching the zipper and optional lining.
Stitch markers: Helpful for keeping track of your row counts and stitch pattern repeats.
Gauge and Finished Measurements
Gauge: 14 stitches and 10 rows in double crochet = 4 inches x 4 inches
Finished size: Approximately 8 inches wide by 5.5 inches tall (before seaming). After seaming, the purse will measure roughly 7.5 inches wide by 5 inches tall.
Always check your gauge before starting, especially for a bag. A slight variation in tension can change the final size enough to affect how well your zipper fits. If your gauge is off, adjust your hook size accordingly.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
FPdc — front post double crochet
BPdc — back post double crochet
sk — skip
sp — space
rep — repeat
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
beg — beginning
Understanding Post Stitches
If you are new to post stitches, a quick refresher will help enormously before you begin.
A front post double crochet (FPdc) is worked by inserting your hook from front to back to front around the post (the vertical body) of the indicated stitch in the row below, rather than through the top loops. You then yarn over and complete the double crochet as normal. The stitch leans toward you, creating a raised ridge on the front of your work.
A back post double crochet (BPdc) is the opposite — you insert your hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated stitch. The stitch leans away from you, creating a ridge on the back of the fabric.
Working these stitches in the right order and around the correct posts is what creates the Celtic weave illusion. Take your time on the first couple of rows until the pattern becomes clear, and you will find it clicks into place quite naturally.
The Pattern
Foundation
Chain 35. (This creates a starting chain for one panel of the purse. You will make two identical panels and seam them together.)
Row 1 (WS): Dc in the 4th chain from hook and in each chain across. (32 dc + 3 skipped chains count as first dc = 33 dc total). Turn.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout). FPdc around each of the next 2 sts, BPdc around each of the next 2 sts, FPdc around each of the next 2 sts; rep from across. Turn.
Row 3 (WS): Ch 2. BPdc around each of the next 2 sts, FPdc around each of the next 2 sts, BPdc around each of the next 2 sts; rep from across. Turn.
These two rows establish the basic ribbed texture that you will begin to layer into the Celtic weave.
Row 4 (RS): Ch 2. FPdc around the post of the FPdc two rows below (skipping the BPdc directly below it), BPdc around the post of the BPdc in the current row; rep from across, working the pattern as established. Turn.
This is where the magic starts happening. By reaching down to the stitches two rows below, you begin to pull the columns of post stitches across each other, creating that interlocking appearance.
Row 5 (WS): Ch 2. Work BPdc and FPdc as established, maintaining the pattern across. Turn.
Rows 6–7: Continue the Celtic weave pattern, working your post stitches around the posts from two rows below on every RS row to maintain the crossing effect. The key is to always work your FPdc stitches around the posts that are beneath the BPdc stitches of the previous row — this creates the over-under appearance.
Rows 8–20: Continue repeating the Celtic weave pattern as established. Your fabric will grow into a rich, textured panel with interlocking ridges running diagonally or in a grid-like pattern depending on your exact stitch sequence.
The total number of rows you need will depend on your gauge, but aim for a panel that measures approximately 5.5 inches tall before seaming. This typically falls somewhere between 18 and 22 rows for most crocheters working at worsted weight.
When you have reached the desired height, fasten off and weave in your ends.
Make a second identical panel.
Assembling the Purse Body
Lay your two panels with wrong sides together (right sides facing outward on both sides). Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch or single crochet along the bottom edge and both side edges. Leave the top edge open — this is where your zipper will be attached.
If you prefer an invisible seam, use the mattress stitch along the sides. This takes a bit more time but gives a very clean finish that looks almost seamless.
Press your finished seamed panels gently with a steam iron (or wet block them, depending on your yarn fiber) to open up the texture and set the shape. This step makes a remarkable difference in how the finished purse looks — the Celtic weave pattern will bloom and the interlocking ridges will stand out beautifully.
Attaching the Zipper
This is the step that often makes crocheters the most nervous, but it is genuinely much simpler than it seems once you take it one small step at a time.
Open your zipper. Lay one side of the zipper face-down along the inside of the top edge of one purse panel, with the zipper teeth facing toward the edge of the fabric. Pin or clip it in place, making sure the ends of the zipper are aligned with the side seams of the purse.
Using your hand-sewing needle and thread (matching the color of your zipper or your yarn), use a backstitch to sew the zipper tape to the inside edge of the purse. Work slowly and try to stitch through the crochet fabric consistently — catching just the backs of stitches so your sewing thread does not show through to the right side.
Repeat this process for the other side of the zipper, attaching it to the inside top edge of the second panel.
Once both sides are sewn, close the zipper and check that everything is lined up correctly. Open and close it a few times to make sure it moves smoothly. If any sections pucker, simply remove the stitching in that area and re-sew with slightly more ease.
Adding a Fabric Lining (Optional)
A lining gives your purse a professional, boutique-quality finish and helps it hold its shape during everyday use. Cut two pieces of fabric slightly smaller than your crochet panels — approximately 7.5 inches wide by 5 inches tall, or sized to fit your actual finished panels.
With right sides together, sew around three edges of your lining pieces (the bottom and both sides), leaving the top open. Press the seam allowances open and then fold down the top edge of the lining about half an inch and press.
Slip the lining inside the purse with the wrong side of the lining facing the wrong side of the crochet fabric. The folded top edge of the lining should sit just below the zipper tape on the inside. Pin it in place and then hand-sew the lining to the zipper tape using small, neat stitches.
This completely covers all the zipper sewing from the inside and makes the interior of your purse look beautiful.
Adding a Handle or Strap
The basic pattern gives you a fully enclosed zippered clutch, which is beautiful on its own. But if you want to carry your purse as a wristlet or crossbody, adding a strap is easy.
For a wristlet loop: Cut a length of ribbon, leather cord, or make a short crochet chain. Attach it to one side seam using a loop through the seam, knotted securely or stitched to the zipper end.
For a crossbody strap: Purchase a ready-made adjustable strap with swivel clasps and attach D-rings or O-rings to each side seam during the assembly step. This elevates the purse into a versatile everyday bag.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it adapts to different styles and uses.
Try it in a rich jewel tone — deep emerald, sapphire blue, or burgundy — for a color that lets the Celtic weave texture take center stage. Neutrals like cream, taupe, and charcoal are equally stunning and endlessly versatile.
You can scale the pattern up by adding more chains to your foundation and working more rows to create a larger bag or even a small tote. Scale it down for a coin purse or lipstick holder. The stitch pattern is the same regardless of size.
Adding a decorative button or brooch to the front panel is a beautiful finishing touch, especially if you choose something with Celtic-inspired detailing like a knotwork or triskelion design. This small detail ties the whole aesthetic together in a way that feels intentional and considered.
Tips for Success
Work your post stitches snugly but not tightly. Post stitches have a tendency to pull the fabric in if worked too tight, which can distort the Celtic weave pattern. A relaxed tension gives the best results.
Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of each section of the repeat, especially in the first few rows while you are learning the pattern rhythm.
Count your stitches at the end of every row. Because post stitches are worked around previous rows rather than into the standard top loops, it is easy to accidentally skip a stitch or add an extra one without noticing. A quick count keeps you on track.
Block your finished panels before seaming. Wet blocking or steam blocking will make a huge difference, particularly if you use a plant fiber like cotton or linen. The stitches will relax into their proper positions and the texture will be more defined.
Final Thoughts
The Celtic Weave Zippered Purse is one of those projects that you will be genuinely proud to carry, give as a gift, or display in your craft portfolio. It is the kind of finished object that stops people in their tracks and prompts them to ask where you bought it — and there is nothing quite as satisfying as saying you made it yourself.
The beauty of the Celtic weave stitch is that it rewards attention. The more carefully you work the post stitches around the correct posts, the more clearly the interlocking pattern emerges, and the more extraordinary the finished fabric looks. It is a pattern that improves with practice, and this purse is small enough that you can complete it in a weekend or two without feeling overwhelmed.
Save this pattern, share it with a fellow crocheter, and enjoy the process. Happy hooking!
