Cabled Interlace Knitted Bag: Free Knitting Pattern

There is something deeply satisfying about carrying a bag you made yourself. Not a simple tote with a garter stitch border, but something with genuine structure and texture — a bag that makes people stop and ask where you bought it. The Cabled Interlace Knitted Bag is exactly that kind of project. It combines the timeless elegance of cable knitting with an interlace pattern that creates a rich, woven-looking fabric sturdy enough to hold your essentials while being beautiful enough to display on your arm like a piece of wearable art.

This free knitting pattern is suitable for knitters with some cable experience, though adventurous beginners who are comfortable reading a basic cable chart will find the pattern approachable and rewarding. The bag works up in a medium-weight yarn, uses a relatively small number of stitches per row, and comes together quickly once you get the rhythm of the cable repeat. By the end of this post, you will have everything you need to cast on and complete your very own Cabled Interlace Knitted Bag.

Why You Will Love This Pattern

Before we get into the yarn and needles, let’s talk about why this bag design works so well. Cables are one of knitting’s most beloved techniques, but they can sometimes create fabric that is too stretchy or soft for a structured bag. The interlace element in this pattern solves that problem beautifully. By weaving the cable columns through each other in alternating directions, the fabric locks itself into a denser, more stable structure than a simple traveling cable would produce. The result is a fabric that holds its shape without any lining or interior structure, though you can certainly add both if you prefer.

The bag’s dimensions are designed to be practical. The finished piece measures approximately 12 inches wide by 11 inches tall before seaming, giving you a bag body that comfortably fits a wallet, phone, keys, and a small notebook. The handles are knitted as part of the same pattern piece and reinforced with an i-cord bind-off that keeps them from stretching out during everyday use.

This is also a wonderfully portable project. Once you memorize the eight-row cable repeat, you can work on it almost anywhere without needing to consult the pattern at every row. Many knitters find cable projects meditative once that pattern sequence is locked into muscle memory.

Materials You Will Need

Getting your materials together before you cast on saves a lot of frustration. Here is everything you need for this project.

Yarn: Approximately 300 to 350 yards of a worsted weight or Aran weight yarn. A smooth, plied yarn works best here because the stitch definition in cables depends heavily on the yarn’s ability to hold crisp edges. Wool or a wool blend is ideal because it has natural elasticity and memory that helps the cables pop. Cotton can work but produces a heavier, less springy fabric. Avoid single-ply or loosely spun yarns as they tend to split when you work the cable needle.

Good yarn choices for this project include Cascade 220, Berroco Vintage, Lion Brand Fishermen’s Wool, or Malabrigo Rios if you want a luxurious single-skein splurge. For a vegan option, look at Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double, which gives you a similar weight with beautiful stitch definition.

Needles: US Size 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular needles for the main body. A cable needle or a spare double-pointed needle for working cables. Many experienced cable knitters skip the cable needle entirely and work the stitches directly off the left needle, so feel free to do that if you are comfortable with the technique.

Notions: Two stitch markers, a tapestry needle for finishing, scissors, and a ruler or tape measure. If you plan to add a lining, you will also need about a quarter yard of cotton fabric, a sewing needle, and coordinating thread.

Gauge: 20 stitches and 26 rows to 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US Size 7 needles. Because cable fabric naturally pulls in, your swatch will look narrower than a stockinette swatch with the same number of stitches. The gauge listed here refers to the blocked and finished fabric measurement. Always swatch and block your swatch before beginning the bag body, especially if you are substituting yarn.

Abbreviations and Glossary

This pattern uses standard knitting abbreviations alongside a few cable-specific terms. Here is a full glossary so you are never left guessing.

k — knit
p — purl
sl — slip stitch purlwise unless otherwise noted
cn — cable needle
C4F — cable 4 front: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, knit 2, then knit 2 from cable needle
C4B — cable 4 back: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in back, knit 2, then knit 2 from cable needle
C6F — cable 6 front: slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, knit 3, then knit 3 from cable needle
C6B — cable 6 back: slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold in back, knit 3, then knit 3 from cable needle
T3F — twist 3 front: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, purl 1, then knit 2 from cable needle
T3B — twist 3 back: slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold in back, knit 2, then purl 1 from cable needle
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
CO — cast on
BO — bind off

Understanding the Interlace Cable Pattern

The Cabled Interlace pattern in this bag is built from a 16-stitch panel that repeats across the width of the bag. The magic of the design comes from alternating C4F and C4B cables that cross over purl columns, creating the illusion that the knit columns are weaving over and under each other like a wicker basket or a woven leather belt.

Each pattern repeat is 8 rows tall. On the right-side rows, you work the cable crossings. On the wrong-side rows, you simply knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as they appear. This means every other row is a rest row, which gives your hands a break and makes the pattern easier to maintain over longer knitting sessions.

The first four rows establish the rightward lean of the cables, and the next four rows shift the crossings to create the leftward interlace. When these two sets of four rows alternate over the height of the bag, the visual result is a continuous lattice of interlocking cables that looks far more complicated than it actually is to execute.

The Pattern

Gauge Swatch Instructions

Before casting on the bag, knit a swatch using your chosen yarn and needles. Cast on 24 stitches and work as follows:

Row 1 (RS): k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Row 2 (WS): p2, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p2.
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat rows 1 and 2.
Row 5 (RS): k2, p2, C4F, p2, C4B, p2, k2, p2, C4F, p2, C4B, p2, k2.
Row 6 (WS): Repeat row 2.
Rows 7 and 8: Repeat rows 1 and 2.

Work this 8-row repeat three times, then bind off and block the swatch. Measure your gauge after blocking and adjust needle size if necessary.

Bag Body (Make 2 Pieces)

Cast on: Using the long-tail cast on, CO 58 stitches.

Setup Row (WS): p2, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2; repeat from to last 2 stitches, p2.

Begin Interlace Cable Pattern:

Row 1 (RS): k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2; repeat from to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2 (WS): p2, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2; repeat from to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 3 (RS): k2, p2, C4F, p2, C4B, p2; repeat from to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2.
Row 5 (RS): k2, p1, T3B, p2, T3F, p1, p2; repeat from to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 6 (WS): p2, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, k2; repeat from to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 7 (RS): k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, p2; repeat from to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 8 (WS): Repeat Row 6.

These 8 rows form the pattern repeat. Continue working rows 1 through 8 until the bag body measures 11 inches from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Handle Openings: The handles are created by working a simple bind-off and cast-on within the same row. On the next RS row, work 10 stitches in pattern, bind off 14 stitches, work 10 stitches in pattern to the center of the bag, bind off 14 stitches, work 10 stitches to end. On the following WS row, work in pattern to each gap and cast on 14 stitches over each bound-off section using the backward loop cast on. Continue in pattern for 8 more rows.

Top Border: Work 6 rows in 2×2 ribbing (k2, p2 across, adjusting as needed to fit your stitch count). Bind off in pattern.

Repeat all instructions to make the second bag panel.

Finishing and Assembly

Finishing is where a knitted bag truly comes together, and it is worth taking your time here. Rush the finishing and you end up with a beautiful fabric inside a lumpy, uneven shell. Take your time and the result looks professionally crafted.

Blocking: Soak both bag panels in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for about 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out the water without wringing, then roll the panels in a clean towel and press to remove excess moisture. Lay the panels flat on a blocking mat or clean surface, pin them to the correct dimensions (approximately 12 inches wide by 11 inches tall), and allow them to dry completely. Blocking evens out the stitches, opens up the cable structure, and helps the interlace pattern achieve its full visual impact. This step is not optional if you want a polished result.

Seaming: Once both panels are dry, hold them together with right sides facing each other. Using a tapestry needle threaded with a length of your project yarn or a coordinating smooth yarn, seam the side seams and bottom seam using the mattress stitch. Mattress stitch creates an invisible join on the right side of the fabric and is ideal for seaming panels that will be turned right-side out after finishing. Work slowly and consistently, catching one stitch from each side alternately, and keep your tension even.

Handle Reinforcement: Turn the bag right-side out. The handles will look like rectangular openings at the top of each side panel. To reinforce them, pick up stitches around each handle opening and work 3 rounds of i-cord using a set of double-pointed needles. Alternatively, cut two lengths of ribbon, fold each in half, and use a sewing needle and thread to tack each folded ribbon inside the handle opening for a clean, polished finish.

Optional Lining: A fabric lining transforms the bag from a purely decorative object into a fully functional everyday bag. Cut two pieces of cotton fabric to the dimensions of your bag panels plus a half-inch seam allowance on all sides. Sew the side and bottom seams of the lining using a sewing machine or by hand. Fold the top edge of the lining under by half an inch and press it flat with an iron. Insert the lining into the bag body with wrong sides together, and slip-stitch the top folded edge of the lining to the inside of the bag’s ribbed border. The lining prevents small items from slipping through the knitted fabric and gives the bag a more finished interior appearance.

Tips for Success

Cable knitting can feel intimidating at first, but a few simple strategies make it much more manageable. Always count your stitches at the end of every row, at least for the first several repeats. A dropped stitch in a cable section can be difficult to identify and fix several rows later. Place stitch markers between each 16-stitch repeat so you can identify problems row by row rather than searching the entire width of the bag.

If you find yourself losing track of where you are in the 8-row repeat, use a row counter or simply make small pencil marks on a printed copy of the pattern. Some knitters use sticky notes to cover the rows they have not yet worked, moving the note down as they progress.

When working the cable crossings, do not rush. Place your cable needle carefully and make sure all slipped stitches are fully on the needle before beginning to knit. Loose or uneven cable crossings are usually the result of stitches slipping off the cable needle mid-cross, which creates inconsistent tension in the finished fabric.

Weave in all your ends on the wrong side of the fabric before seaming. It is much easier to secure ends when the fabric is flat than after the bag is assembled. Use a tapestry needle to weave each end back and forth through the purl bumps on the wrong side for at least an inch in two different directions so the end cannot pull free.

Yarn Substitution Ideas

The beauty of a free pattern is that you can truly make it your own through yarn choice. While a classic cream or oatmeal-colored yarn allows the cable interlace to show at its absolute clearest, there is no rule that says your bag has to be neutral. A deep jewel-tone like burgundy, forest green, or navy makes the interlace feel rich and formal. A heathered tweed yarn adds a rustic, artisanal quality. A semi-solid hand-dyed yarn in warm terracotta or sage creates something that looks boutique and contemporary.

If you want to scale the bag up into a larger tote, simply add additional 16-stitch repeats to your cast-on and continue the pattern as written. The interlace pattern is highly scalable, and a larger bag would make an excellent farmers’ market tote, beach bag, or project bag for your own knitting supplies.

Caring for Your Finished Bag

Because this bag is knitted fabric, care instructions matter. If you used a wool or wool-blend yarn, hand wash the bag in cool water using a gentle wool wash and dry it flat to preserve the shape. Never wring or twist the bag, as this can distort the cables. If your yarn is machine washable, check the ball band and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Store the bag in a cool, dry place when not in use, and if you notice any pilling over time, use a sweater stone or fabric shaver to gently remove the pills and restore the surface.

Final Thoughts

The Cabled Interlace Knitted Bag is the kind of project that reminds you why you fell in love with knitting in the first place. It is tactile and engaging to make, beautiful and practical when finished, and endlessly customizable in terms of yarn, color, and size. Whether you are making it for yourself as a go-everywhere everyday bag, gifting it to someone who will recognize the craft and time that went into it, or adding it to your portfolio as a designer knitter, this pattern delivers something that feels genuinely special.

Take your time with the cables, enjoy the rhythm of the repeat, and do not skip the blocking step. The care you put into this bag at every stage will show in the finished piece, and you will end up with something you are genuinely proud to carry. Happy knitting.