Basic Crochet Drawstring Pouch | Free Pattern & Video Tutorial

There is something deeply satisfying about making your own pouches and bags from scratch. Whether you are brand new to crochet or returning to the craft after a long break, a drawstring pouch is one of those projects that teaches you foundational skills while producing something genuinely useful at the end. This free crochet drawstring pouch pattern is perfect for beginners, works up quickly, and can be customized in so many ways that you will likely want to make several once you finish the first one.

In this post, you will find the complete free pattern with written instructions, notes on materials, step-by-step guidance through each section of the pouch, finishing tips, and ideas for how to use or gift your finished project. A video tutorial is also linked to walk you through the process visually if that is how you learn best.

Why Make a Crochet Drawstring Pouch?

Before diving into the pattern itself, it is worth thinking about why this particular project deserves a spot on your to-do list.

First, it is practical. A drawstring pouch has dozens of uses in everyday life. You can use it as a jewelry bag when traveling, a gift bag for a small present, a coin purse, a dice bag for tabletop games, a sachet filled with dried lavender, a holder for crystals or keepsakes, or a small project bag to store a WIP. Once you start making them, you start seeing opportunities to use them everywhere.

Second, this pattern teaches real skills. Even though it is labeled a beginner project, you will practice the magic ring, working in the round, maintaining stitch counts, and creating a drawstring channel. These are skills that will serve you in more complex patterns later on, from hats and bags to amigurumi and baskets.

Third, it is fast. Depending on your yarn weight and how focused you are, you can finish this pouch in one or two hours. That makes it ideal for when you want the satisfaction of a completed project without a multi-week commitment.

Finally, it is affordable. This pouch uses a very small amount of yarn, so it is a great stash buster. You can make a whole set of pouches using up scraps that would otherwise sit in a bin.

Materials You Will Need

This pattern is written for worsted weight yarn, which is the easiest weight to learn with because the stitches are easy to see and the fabric works up quickly. That said, you can adjust the yarn weight and hook size to create a smaller or larger pouch.

Yarn: Approximately 50 to 75 yards of worsted weight yarn (Category 4). Cotton yarn is especially nice for this project because it creates a sturdy fabric that holds its shape, but acrylic works beautifully too. If you want a softer, more flexible pouch, a soft acrylic blend or a wool-acrylic mix is a lovely choice.

Hook: 5.0mm (H/8) crochet hook. If your tension runs tight, go up to a 5.5mm. If your tension runs loose, try a 4.5mm. The goal is a fabric that is somewhat firm so the pouch holds its structure.

Drawstring: You have several options here. You can use a length of the same yarn doubled up, a piece of ribbon, a length of paracord, a leather cord, or even a twisted cord you make yourself from leftover yarn. The drawstring will need to be approximately 24 to 30 inches long, depending on how you want the bow to look when the pouch is closed.

Other supplies: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch marker (optional but helpful for keeping track of rounds).

Finished size: With worsted weight yarn and a 5.0mm hook, the finished pouch measures approximately 4 inches wide and 5 inches tall before the drawstring channel. This is a generous size for a coin purse or small gift bag. Adjust hook and yarn weight for a smaller or larger result.

Gauge

Gauge is less critical for this project than for something like a garment, but it is still worth noting. With worsted weight yarn and a 5.0mm hook, you should get approximately 14 single crochet stitches and 16 rows to a 4-inch square. If your finished pouch is significantly larger or smaller than described and that matters to you, simply adjust your hook size.

Abbreviations

This pattern uses US crochet terminology.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
sc2tog — single crochet two together (decrease)
inc — increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
MR — magic ring
BLO — back loop only
st — stitch
rnd — round
rep — repeat

Pattern Notes

This pouch is worked in continuous rounds from the bottom up. You start with a flat circle for the base, then work the sides straight up to create the body of the bag, and finish with a drawstring channel at the top. The drawstring is threaded through the channel at the end.

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round if you find it difficult to keep track of where rounds begin and end. Move the marker up as you work.

The body of the pouch is worked in single crochet through both loops unless the pattern specifies otherwise. The drawstring channel row is worked in back loops only, which creates a natural ridge that helps the drawstring pull closed neatly.

The Free Pattern

Part 1: The Base

The base is a simple flat circle worked in continuous rounds. Take your time here to make sure your circle lies flat, as this will determine the shape of your finished pouch.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc rep around. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc rep around. (36 sts)

After Rnd 6, you should have a flat circle with 36 stitches. Lay it on a flat surface and check that it is not curling up at the edges. A little natural curl is fine and will work itself out as you begin working the sides, but if it is significantly cupped, you may want to try a slightly larger hook.

If you want a larger pouch, you can add more increase rounds. Each additional round follows the same pattern: add one more single crochet between increases per round. For example, Rnd 7 would be sc 5, inc repeated around for 42 stitches.

Part 2: The Body

Now you will transition from working flat to working the sides of the pouch. This transition creates the distinct bottom edge of the bag.

Rnd 7: Working in back loops only for this round, sc in each st around. (36 sts)

Working in back loops only for this single round creates a ridge on the outside of the pouch that defines the base from the sides, giving the finished bag a clean, structured look. From this round onward, you are building the walls of the pouch.

Rnds 8 through 20: Sc in each st around. (36 sts each round)

This is the main body of the pouch. You will simply work single crochets in a continuous spiral for 13 rounds. This is a lovely meditative section of the pattern because there is no shaping to worry about — just stitch after stitch, watching the walls of the bag grow.

Continue until the body measures approximately 4 to 4.5 inches from the base ridge. If you want a taller pouch, simply work more rounds. If you prefer something shorter, stop a few rounds early. The exact number of rounds is flexible.

Part 3: The Drawstring Channel

The drawstring channel is the feature that turns this simple crocheted tube into an actual drawstring pouch. It is made by working a round of chains and skipped stitches to create eyelets, which the drawstring will thread through.

Rnd 21: Sc 2, ch 2, skip 2 sts rep around. (9 ch-2 spaces created)

This creates the eyelets. Make sure to skip exactly 2 stitches each time you work a ch 2, or your stitch count will be off.

Rnd 22: Sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-2 space around. (36 sts)

This round fills in the gaps so the channel is enclosed on both sides, leaving just the eyelets for threading.

Rnd 23: Working in back loops only, sc in each st around. (36 sts)

Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)

Rnd 25: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)

Slip stitch into the next stitch to finish the round. Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail, and fasten off.

Part 4: Finishing the Top Edge

Weave in your tail using your yarn needle. If you would like a slightly more polished top edge, you can add a simple slip stitch border around the rim of the pouch by joining yarn at any stitch and working a slip stitch in each stitch around before fastening off. This is optional but gives the bag a tidy, intentional finish.

Part 5: Adding the Drawstring

Cut your drawstring material to approximately 28 inches. Thread it onto a large yarn needle or a safety pin and weave it through the eyelets you created in Rnd 21. Go in and out of each ch-2 space all the way around the pouch.

Once you have threaded the drawstring all the way through, tie both ends together in a knot or bow. Alternatively, if you are using ribbon or cord, you can create two separate drawstring ends that pull in opposite directions — simply cut two lengths of cord, thread one through half the eyelets from one side and the other through from the other side, and knot or tie each end.

Pull the drawstring to test that the pouch closes smoothly. Adjust as needed.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

My base is cupping instead of lying flat. This usually means your tension is too tight or your hook is too small. Try going up a hook size or relaxing your grip slightly.

My pouch looks twisted. When working in continuous rounds without a slip stitch join, a very slight spiral is normal. If the twist is noticeable, try working with a stitch marker and checking that you are consistent about where each round begins.

My stitch count keeps changing. Check that you are not accidentally working into the chains at the top of a stitch or skipping the last stitch before your marker. Stitch markers are your best friend for keeping count in the round.

The drawstring is hard to thread. Try using a blunt tapestry needle with a large eye, or fold a small piece of thin wire into a loop to use as a drawstring threader, similar to a bobby pin method.

My eyelets are too small for my drawstring. You can use ch 3 instead of ch 2 for larger eyelets if your drawstring is a thicker cord or ribbon. Adjust accordingly in Rnd 22 as well.

Customization Ideas

One of the most enjoyable things about a basic pattern like this is how easily it adapts to different looks and purposes.

Change the yarn weight. Use fingering weight yarn and a 2.5mm hook for a tiny jewelry or earring pouch. Use bulky yarn and a 6mm hook for a generous-sized bag that could hold a phone, small wallet, and keys.

Add texture. Try working the body in a shell stitch, a moss stitch, or even just alternating rounds of back loop only and regular single crochet for a subtle ribbed effect.

Use self-striping or variegated yarn. Because this pattern is simple and worked in the round, variegated yarn gets to be the star of the show. The colors stack and shift in beautiful ways without any extra effort on your part.

Embellish the finished pouch. Sew on a button or a small crocheted flower. Add fringe to the bottom. Use a contrasting color for the last few rounds or the drawstring channel. The simplicity of the base design gives you plenty of room to play.

Make it a gift set. A group of drawstring pouches in two or three coordinating colors makes a wonderful handmade gift. Fill them with small treats, bath salts, loose tea, or jewelry and you have a thoughtful, personalized present that costs very little to make.

Video Tutorial

If you are a visual learner, watching someone else work through a pattern can make all the difference. A video tutorial for this basic crochet drawstring pouch walks through each section in real time, showing the magic ring, the base increases, the transition to the sides, and the drawstring channel row up close. Watching the eyelet round worked slowly before trying it yourself is especially helpful, since that is the step where beginners most often lose their stitch count. Look for the video linked in this post or search for a basic crochet drawstring bag tutorial on YouTube to find a visual walkthrough that matches your learning style.

Storing and Caring for Your Pouch

If you made your pouch in cotton yarn, it is generally machine washable on a gentle cycle in cold water. Lay it flat to dry to keep its shape. Acrylic pouches can usually be machine washed and dried, but always check your yarn label first.

For pouches made with delicate fibers like mohair or hand-dyed wool, hand washing in cool water with a gentle soap is the safest approach.

Final Thoughts

A basic crochet drawstring pouch is genuinely one of the most rewarding beginner projects you can work on. It introduces you to working in the round, shaping a base, and creating functional details like a drawstring channel, all while producing a finished object you will actually use. The pattern is forgiving, adaptable, and fast enough that you can see real progress in a single sitting.

Whether you are making one for yourself, filling a few with lavender as gifts, or using up scraps from a larger project, this little pouch punches well above its weight. Once you have made one, you will have the skills and the confidence to start experimenting — trying different yarn weights, adding texture, playing with color, and making the pattern your own.

Happy crocheting, and enjoy the process!