8 Knot Bag Free Knitting Pattern — Page 2 of 2
Welcome back, knitters! If you’ve just arrived here, you may want to start with Page 1, where we covered the materials list, gauge information, and the first section of the bag body. On this page, we’re diving into the finishing details, the handle construction, and all the tips you need to complete your 8 Knot Bag with confidence. Whether you’re a seasoned knitter looking for a satisfying weekend project or someone who just finished their first swatch and is ready to tackle something beautiful, this pattern has everything you need to create a sturdy, stylish, and completely unique bag.
Let’s pick up right where we left off and get this bag finished.
Continuing the Bag Body — Completing the Knot Pattern
At the end of Page 1, you should have completed the first four knot sections and have your work resting comfortably on your needles. The fabric at this stage should already show that wonderful textured surface that makes this bag so eye-catching. Now we move into the upper half of the bag body, which mirrors the lower half but includes a few additional shaping rows near the top edge to prepare for the handle attachment.
Before you continue, take a moment to count your stitches. You should have the same stitch count you started with — if you’ve accidentally added or dropped any stitches, now is the time to correct them. Blocking or stretching the bag can hide small inconsistencies, but significant stitch count errors will affect the symmetry of your knot pattern and the overall shape of the finished bag.
Continue working the knot stitch pattern as established. For those who need a quick refresher, the basic knot stitch used throughout this pattern works as follows:
Knot Stitch (worked over 3 stitches): Knit 3 together but do not slip them off the left needle. Bring yarn forward and purl the same 3 stitches together, then bring yarn back and knit the same 3 stitches together once more. Now slip all 3 stitches off the left needle. This creates a tight, rounded cluster that is the signature texture of the 8 Knot Bag.
Work the knot stitch pattern for an additional 40 rows (or until your bag body measures approximately 12 inches total from the cast-on edge, not including the base), keeping the edge stitches as established to maintain a clean selvedge on both sides. If you prefer a deeper bag, you can work an additional 10 to 20 rows here without disrupting the pattern — just make sure to end on the same row of the repeat that you began on so both sides of the bag are symmetrical.
Top Edge Shaping
The top edge of the 8 Knot Bag is worked in a simple 2×2 rib, which serves two purposes. First, it gives the opening of the bag a neat, professional finish that doesn’t curl or roll. Second, the slight elasticity of ribbing helps the bag hold its shape over time, even with regular use. A bag that stretches out at the opening quickly starts to look worn and sloppy, and this ribbed border prevents exactly that.
Switch to your smaller needle size (if you’re using two sizes) or simply continue with your working needles if you’re working with a single size throughout.
Row 1 (RS): K2, P2; repeat from to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): P2, K2; repeat from to end of row.
Repeat these two rows for a total of 10 rows (approximately 1 inch of ribbing). Bind off loosely in pattern on the next right-side row, using a stretchy bind-off method. The Russian bind-off or the standard decrease bind-off both work beautifully here — the key word is loose. A tight bind-off will cause the bag opening to pucker and will make it difficult to reach inside the bag comfortably.
Repeat this entire process for the second panel of the bag body if you are working the two-piece version of this pattern.
Knitting the Base
If you are working the flat version of this pattern (two separate panels), you will now knit the base rectangle that joins the front and back of the bag. The base adds structure and allows the bag to sit upright when filled, which is one of the features that sets the 8 Knot Bag apart from simpler tote-style knitting patterns.
Using your main yarn and larger needles, cast on 20 stitches (or the number of stitches that matches your gauge over the desired width of the base — typically 4 to 5 inches wide).
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) until the base measures the same width as your bag panels from side seam to side seam. This is typically around 14 to 16 rows, depending on your yarn weight and tension. Garter stitch is ideal for the base because it lies completely flat without curling and creates a double-thick fabric due to the stacking of ridges, giving the bottom of your bag extra durability.
Bind off all stitches and set the base piece aside.
Seaming the Bag
Seaming is the step that many knitters dread, but with the right technique and a little patience, it becomes genuinely satisfying work. For the 8 Knot Bag, mattress stitch is highly recommended for the side seams because it creates an almost invisible join that lies flat against the inside of the bag without adding bulk.
Thread a blunt tapestry needle with a length of your main yarn (approximately 18 inches per seam). Working with the right sides facing you, insert the needle between the first and second stitch on one edge, then between the first and second stitch on the corresponding edge of the second panel. Draw the yarn through and repeat, working your way up the seam one stitch at a time. After every four or five stitches, gently pull the yarn snug — not tight, just enough to close the gap between the two pieces. You’ll notice the seam virtually disappears into the fabric.
Sew both side seams from the cast-on edge up to the top ribbing. Then sew the base piece to the bottom of the bag, centering it between the two side seams and whipstitching it into place around all four edges. When the base is attached, it should sit flat inside the lower portion of the bag, providing a firm floor for the finished object.
Turn the bag right-side out and gently press the seams with a damp cloth and warm iron (or steam iron, depending on your yarn fiber content — always check the yarn label first). This step makes a remarkable difference to the finished look of the seams and the overall shape of the bag.
Knitting the Handles
The handles of the 8 Knot Bag are one of its most distinctive features. They are worked separately in a twisted I-cord technique, then attached to the upper edge of the bag at four evenly spaced points — two per handle. The twisted construction gives the handles excellent strength and a polished, rope-like appearance that complements the knotted texture of the bag body beautifully.
To make I-cord handles:
Using double-pointed needles (or the magic loop method on a circular needle), cast on 5 stitches. Do not turn your work. Slide the stitches to the right end of the needle, bring the yarn firmly around the back, and knit the 5 stitches again. Continue in this way, never turning the work, until the cord measures 20 inches (or your preferred handle length — see the fitting notes below). Bind off and cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail for seaming.
Make two handles of equal length.
Fitting note: The ideal handle length depends on how you intend to carry the bag. A 20-inch handle works well as a shoulder bag for most adults. If you prefer a shorter, handheld grip, reduce the handle length to 12 to 14 inches. If you’d like a crossbody strap, you’ll want a much longer cord — around 40 to 50 inches. You can easily adjust this measurement without affecting any other part of the pattern.
To create the twisted effect:
Once both cords are knitted, fold each one in half and hold the two ends together. Allow the cord to naturally twist around itself — I-cord has a built-in tendency to coil when relaxed, and this natural twist creates the rope-like texture. Pin the folded end to a fixed point (a door handle, a chair back, or a hook works perfectly) and gently twist the doubled cord in the opposite direction of its natural curl until it begins to feel taut. Fold it in half once more at the center point, allowing it to twist back on itself. You’ll end up with a dense, four-ply twisted handle that is sturdy, attractive, and comfortable to hold.
Attaching the Handles
Measure and mark four attachment points along the top ribbing of the bag — two per handle, placed symmetrically on the front and back panels. A common placement is to position each pair of attachment points approximately 3 inches from each side seam, giving you a handle that sits centered on both panels.
Using a tapestry needle and the tail of yarn left from each handle end, sew each end of the handles firmly to the marked attachment points. Work several passes through the handle end and into the ribbing of the bag, then stitch horizontally across the attachment zone to distribute the stress load evenly. This is especially important if you intend to carry heavy items in the bag — a single-point attachment can pull loose over time.
Once all four handle ends are attached, weave in the remaining tails securely on the inside of the bag. Trim any excess.
Optional Embellishments
The 8 Knot Bag is beautiful exactly as it is, but many knitters love to add a personal touch with embellishments. Here are a few ideas that work particularly well with this pattern:
A simple twisted fringe along the base seam adds a bohemian, festival-ready look. Cut lengths of yarn approximately 10 inches long, fold them in half, and use a crochet hook to pull the folded loop through the edge of the base seam, then pass the ends through the loop and pull snug. Work fringes every half inch around the entire base for a dramatic effect, or just at the two bottom corners for something more subtle.
If you have leftover yarn in a contrasting color, consider working the top ribbing and handles in that color instead of the main yarn. A neutral bag body with a bold accent in the handle color is a classic and endlessly wearable combination.
Wooden or bamboo bag handles are another popular upgrade. Instead of knitting the I-cord handles, you can attach a pair of purchased bamboo ring handles to the top of the bag by folding the ribbed edge over the ring and sewing it in place. This gives the bag a more structured, market-tote aesthetic that pairs especially well with linen or cotton yarn.
A magnetic snap closure keeps the bag closed without adding visible hardware to the outside. Sew the snap components to the inside of the front and back panels, just below the bind-off edge, before attaching the handles. These are widely available at fabric and craft stores, and installation takes only a few minutes.
Blocking Your Finished Bag
Blocking is an often-skipped step that makes a genuinely significant difference to the finished appearance of this project. The knot stitch pattern in particular benefits from a good wet block, which relaxes the stitches slightly and allows the individual knot clusters to sit more evenly and show up more clearly against the background.
To wet block, submerge the finished bag in cool water and allow it to soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Gently press out the excess water without wringing or twisting the fabric, then roll the bag in a clean towel to remove additional moisture. Lay it flat on a blocking mat or dry towel, gently pat it into shape, and allow it to air dry completely. This can take anywhere from several hours to overnight depending on your yarn fiber content and the ambient humidity.
If you’ve used superwash wool or an acrylic yarn, the bag may not hold the blocked shape permanently, but it will still benefit from a good wet block for the initial set. Natural fibers like wool, cotton, and linen will take the blocking more effectively and hold their shape for the long term.
Yarn Suggestions and Substitutions
This pattern was originally designed for a worsted-weight wool yarn with good stitch definition, and that remains the recommended choice. The knot stitch pattern relies on clear definition between the clusters and the background fabric — yarns with a high sheen or a halo (like mohair or angora) can obscure the texture and make the knot pattern harder to read.
That said, this pattern is wonderfully adaptable. Bulky cotton yarn creates a sturdy, washable bag perfect for the beach or farmers’ market. A tweed or marled yarn adds visual interest to the background fabric without overpowering the knot clusters. A tightly plied linen yarn will produce a structured, durable bag that only gets better with wear and washing.
If you’re substituting yarn, swatch for gauge before you begin. The stitch pattern is worked over multiples of 3 stitches plus selvedge stitches, so when adjusting your cast-on for a different gauge, make sure your total stitch count remains a multiple of 3 after accounting for the edge stitches.
Finished Measurements
The finished 8 Knot Bag, worked to the gauge and dimensions given throughout this pattern, measures approximately:
Width across: 14 inches laid flat (28 inches in circumference)
Height from base to top edge: 13.5 inches including ribbing
Handle drop: 10 inches from top of bag to center of handle
These measurements are after blocking. Unblocked, the bag will typically measure slightly smaller and narrower.
Care Instructions
For wool yarn, hand wash in cool water with a gentle wool wash and lay flat to dry. Do not wring, tumble dry, or hang the bag while wet, as the weight of wet wool can cause it to stretch unevenly.
For cotton or linen, machine wash on a gentle cold cycle and lay flat to dry or tumble dry on low.
For acrylic or synthetic yarns, follow the label instructions — most can be machine washed and dried, which makes them a practical choice for a bag that sees heavy everyday use.
A Few Final Tips
Pin your seams before sewing them. It sounds like an extra step, but pinning ensures both panels align evenly along the entire length of the seam before you commit your yarn to a single path.
Check your handle length by cutting a piece of string to the planned handle length and holding it against the bag before you begin knitting. It takes ten seconds and can save you from having to frog and reknit.
If your knot stitches feel difficult to work — particularly the triple movement of knitting, purling, and knitting into the same three stitches — try working that step more slowly with a slightly looser tension. Many knitters find that the knot stitch becomes fluid and fast after just a few inches of practice.
Finally, enjoy the process. The 8 Knot Bag is the kind of project that looks impressive but is genuinely achievable for any knitter who has mastered basic stitches and isn’t afraid of a little textural technique. The finished bag is sturdy, beautiful, endlessly versatile, and something you’ll reach for again and again — whether you’re heading to the market, the beach, or simply carrying your next knitting project in style.
Happy knitting, and congratulations on completing your 8 Knot Bag!
