10+ Coin Purse Knitting Patterns: Your Complete Guide to Crafting the Perfect Small Accessory (Page 2 of 3)

Welcome back to our ongoing collection of coin purse knitting patterns! If you’ve been following along from the first page, you already know how satisfying it is to knit up a small, functional accessory that makes a wonderful gift or keeps your own essentials organized. On this second page, we’re diving into more intermediate and creative designs that will challenge your skills just enough to keep things exciting without leaving you frustrated.

Whether you’re looking for a new technique to try, a pattern that uses up your yarn stash, or a thoughtful handmade gift idea, you’ll find something to love in the patterns and ideas below. Let’s get started.

Why Coin Purses Are One of the Best Knitting Projects

Before we jump into the patterns, it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate why coin purses deserve a special place in every knitter’s project queue.

First, they’re fast. Most coin purses can be completed in an evening or two, which means you get that satisfying “finished object” feeling without committing weeks of your life to a single project. For knitters who struggle with project fatigue on larger items like sweaters or blankets, small accessories like coin purses are genuinely therapeutic.

Second, they’re a wonderful way to experiment. Want to try stranded colorwork but not ready to commit to a full Fair Isle sweater? A coin purse is the perfect canvas. Curious about working with a luxury fiber like cashmere or alpaca but hesitant to invest in a large quantity? A coin purse only uses a small amount of yarn, so the investment is minimal.

Third, they’re universally useful and appreciated. A handknit coin purse makes a lovely gift for birthdays, holidays, graduations, and everything in between. People use them for coins, lip balm, earbuds, medication, keepsakes, and countless other small items. Their practicality makes them one of those rare handmade gifts that people actually use rather than tuck away in a drawer.

Pattern 6: The Garter Stitch Envelope Clutch

This pattern is ideal for knitters who love a clean, simple aesthetic. The envelope-style flap gives the purse a polished look that feels modern and intentional rather than rustic or casual.

Yarn: Worsted weight, approximately 50 yards. A smooth, plied yarn works best here to show off the texture cleanly.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular needles.

Gauge: 18 stitches and 36 rows per 4 inches in garter stitch. Gauge matters less here than in garments, but keeping it consistent will ensure your purse has the right dimensions.

Finished size: Approximately 4.5 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall when closed.

Notes: This purse is worked flat from the bottom up. The flap is knitted as a continuation of the back panel, then folded down over the front. A simple button closure finishes the look beautifully.

Cast on 22 stitches. Knit every row (garter stitch) for 3.5 inches. This forms the front panel. Place a removable stitch marker at each end of your next row to mark the bottom of the purse. Continue in garter stitch for another 3.5 inches to form the back panel. For the flap, decrease one stitch at each end of every right-side row five times, creating a gently tapered point. Bind off remaining stitches.

Fold the piece at the stitch markers so that front and back panels meet. Seam the sides using mattress stitch or whip stitch. Weave in all ends. Sew a decorative button to the front panel, and use the last bind-off stitch or a small loop of yarn to create a button loop on the underside of the flap point.

This pattern is incredibly adaptable. Try it in a bulky yarn for a chunkier version, or use a fine fingering weight for something more delicate. Adding a simple knit-purl border around the flap edge is an easy way to add visual interest without complicating the pattern.

Pattern 7: Colorwork Coin Purse With Nordic Motif

Stranded colorwork is one of knitting’s most beloved techniques, and a coin purse is one of the best ways to practice it. The small scale means you’re managing only a few inches of floats at a time, which makes it much easier to keep your tension even compared to working on larger colorwork projects.

Yarn: Fingering weight in two contrasting colors. You’ll need about 30 yards of the main color (MC) and 20 yards of the contrast color (CC). Wool or wool-blend works best for colorwork because it has a slight grip that helps floats stay put.

Needles: US size 1.5 (2.5mm) double-pointed needles or a short circular needle suitable for small circumferences.

Gauge: 32 stitches and 36 rounds per 4 inches in stranded stockinette.

Finished size: Approximately 4 inches wide and 3 inches tall.

Cast on 64 stitches in MC using a long-tail cast-on. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Work 4 rounds of k1, p1 ribbing in MC for the top edge. Begin the colorwork chart, which features a simple Nordic snowflake or geometric motif repeated four times around. Work the chart for approximately 24 rounds. Work 4 rounds of k1, p1 ribbing in MC. Bind off using a stretchy method like the sewn bind-off or Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off.

After blocking, fold the piece flat and seam the bottom edge using Kitchener stitch or a three-needle bind-off if you prefer a slightly raised seam. Insert a zipper by hand-sewing it to the inside of the top opening. A 4-inch zipper is typically the right length for this purse.

Blocking is especially important for colorwork knitting. Wet the finished piece, gently press out excess water in a clean towel, and lay it flat to dry. You’ll be amazed at how much the stitches even out and the colors pop once the piece is blocked.

Pattern 8: Simple Striped Coin Purse for Beginners

If you’re newer to knitting or want a project that comes together almost mindlessly while watching a film, this striped pattern is exactly what you need. The simple two-row stripe repeat creates a cheerful, graphic look with virtually no extra effort.

Yarn: Worsted weight in two or more colors. About 25 yards of each color.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight needles.

Gauge: Approximately 18 stitches per 4 inches in stockinette.

Finished size: Approximately 4 inches wide and 3 inches tall.

Cast on 18 stitches in color A. Work in stockinette stitch (knit right side, purl wrong side) in the following stripe sequence: 2 rows color A, 2 rows color B. Repeat this stripe sequence until the piece measures 12 inches from cast-on edge. Bind off.

Fold the piece in thirds, with the bottom third folding up to create the front pocket and the top third folding down to become the flap. Seam the two side edges through all three layers at the sides of the pocket section. When you reach the flap, seam only the back and flap layers so that the opening remains accessible. Weave in ends, being careful to catch them cleanly since stripes mean more ends than usual.

Finish with a snap closure or a simple button and loop. You can also use a small piece of Velcro sewn to the interior of the flap and the exterior of the front panel for a clean, modern look.

One great tip for managing yarn ends in striped projects is to carry the unused color up the side of the work rather than cutting it at every stripe change. This works particularly well with a two-row stripe repeat and significantly reduces the number of ends you need to weave in.

Pattern 9: Textured Seed Stitch Coin Purse

Seed stitch is one of those versatile knitting patterns that looks impressive but requires only the most basic knowledge of knits and purls. The alternating knit and purl stitches create a bumpy, pebbly texture that lies flat, making it perfect for a structured coin purse that holds its shape beautifully.

Yarn: DK weight in any fiber. About 60 yards. A solid or semi-solid colorway really lets the texture shine.

Needles: US size 5 (3.75mm) straight or circular needles.

Gauge: 22 stitches and 32 rows per 4 inches in seed stitch.

Finished size: Approximately 4 inches wide and 3 inches tall.

For seed stitch on an even number of stitches, the pattern is simply: Row 1: k1, p1; repeat from to end. Row 2: p1, k1; repeat from to end. This creates the characteristic offset texture.

Cast on 22 stitches. Work in seed stitch for 3 inches. Next row (turning row for base): Knit across. Continue in seed stitch for another 3 inches. This forms a two-panel piece that folds at the knit turning row. Bind off in pattern.

Fold at the turning row and seam the sides. For the closure, work a small i-cord of about 3 inches and attach one end to the inside front panel and the other end as a loop that wraps around a button. This rustic tie-style closure suits the organic texture of seed stitch perfectly.

Seed stitch is also a great starting point for adding embellishments. Try knitting a small flower or leaf in stockinette and sewing it to the front panel, or use duplicate stitch to add a simple letter or monogram once the purse is complete.

Pattern 10: Cabled Coin Purse

If you’ve been wanting to try cables but haven’t yet taken the plunge, a coin purse is one of the most approachable ways to start. Cables look complicated but they’re really just stitches worked out of order using a cable needle. The result is a stunning twisted rope effect that makes your finished object look like you spent hours more than you actually did.

Yarn: Worsted weight, approximately 55 yards. Wool or wool-blend is ideal because it holds the definition of cables beautifully.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight needles plus one cable needle.

Gauge: 20 stitches and 28 rows per 4 inches in stockinette. Cable panels pull in width, so swatching is helpful.

Finished size: Approximately 4 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall.

The central cable panel for this purse uses a simple six-stitch cable. The cable abbreviation used here is C6F: slip 3 stitches to cable needle, hold to front, k3, then k3 from cable needle.

Cast on 28 stitches. Set-up row (wrong side): k2, p6, k4, p6, k4, p6, k2. Row 1 (right side): p2, k6, p4, k6, p4, k6, p2. Row 2: k2, p6, k4, p6, k4, p6, k2. Row 3: p2, C6F, p4, C6F, p4, C6F, p2. Row 4: same as row 2. Repeat rows 1 through 4 until the piece measures 7 inches from cast-on. Bind off in pattern.

Fold in half and seam the sides. The cable pattern creates a naturally structured, slightly firm fabric that gives the purse a wonderful shape. Add a zipper or button closure of your choice.

Once you’re comfortable with a basic front cable (C6F), try experimenting with a back cable (C6B) for a twist that leans the other direction, or combine both on the same panel for a classic rope cable.

Tips for Finishing Your Coin Purse Like a Pro

No matter which pattern you choose, the finishing steps are what elevate your project from “homemade” to “handcrafted.” Here are some essential finishing tips that apply to virtually every coin purse pattern.

Block before you seam. Blocking evens out your stitches, relaxes the fabric, and makes the pieces easier to seam accurately. For wool, wet blocking works beautifully. For acrylic, a light steam works better.

Use the right seaming method. Mattress stitch creates an invisible seam on stockinette fabric. Whip stitch is faster and creates a visible seam that can be decorative if you use a contrasting color. Choose based on your aesthetic preference and the texture of your fabric.

Choose a zipper that matches your yarn. Metal zippers look stunning with rustic or natural-fiber purses. Nylon coil zippers are more flexible and work well with softer, more fluid fabrics. When in doubt, nylon is the more forgiving choice for hand-sewing.

Reinforce the zipper attachment. The points where a zipper is attached to the fabric take the most stress, so take extra stitches there. Running your thread through these junction points two or three times prevents the zipper from pulling loose after regular use.

Lining is optional but worthwhile. A simple fabric lining in a complementary cotton print protects the inside of the purse from keys and coins scratching the knit fabric, and it makes the purse look polished when it’s opened. Cut a rectangle of lining fabric slightly smaller than the finished purse, fold under the edges, and slip-stitch it to the inside.

Adapting Any Coin Purse Pattern to Your Yarn

One of the beautiful things about small projects is how easy they are to adapt when you don’t have the exact yarn called for in a pattern. Here’s a quick reference for adjusting needle sizes and cast-on numbers based on your yarn weight.

If you’re substituting a lighter yarn (say, fingering weight in place of DK), go down approximately one needle size and increase your stitch count by about 15 to 20 percent. If you’re substituting a heavier yarn, go up a needle size or two and reduce your stitch count by the same proportion. For a coin purse, exact gauge matters less than it would for a fitted garment, so a slight size variation is perfectly acceptable and often charmingly unique.

Always buy a small extra amount when substituting yarn. Since the quantities for coin purses are already small, running out is frustrating but all too easy when you’re winging the math.

Continuing Your Coin Purse Journey

The patterns on this page represent just a fraction of what’s possible when it comes to knitted coin purses. On the next page of this series, we’ll explore more adventurous techniques including double-knitting for reversible purses, incorporating beads for a glamorous sparkle, and working with unusual materials like wire and ribbon yarn for truly one-of-a-kind results.

In the meantime, cast on one of the patterns above and enjoy the process. Small projects like these are where knitters often discover new techniques, fall in love with new yarns, and find their rhythm in ways that larger projects simply don’t allow. There’s no wrong place to start, and there’s no such thing as too many coin purses in your finished object pile.

Keep your needles moving, enjoy the rhythm of the stitches, and we’ll see you on the next page.