Teddy Bear Crochet Pattern – Cute Amigurumi Plush Tutorial
There is something deeply satisfying about making a toy with your own hands. When you finish the last stitch on a crocheted teddy bear, stuff it with polyfill, sew on those little button eyes, and hold it up to the light, you feel the kind of pride that only handmade things can bring. This teddy bear crochet pattern walks you through every step of creating an adorable amigurumi plush that is soft, sturdy, and perfectly huggable. Whether you are a beginner who has just learned to single crochet in the round or an experienced maker looking for a reliable go-to bear pattern, this tutorial is written to help you succeed.
Amigurumi, the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed figures, has exploded in popularity over the last two decades, and the classic teddy bear remains one of the most beloved projects in the craft. This pattern produces a bear that stands approximately seven to eight inches tall, making it an ideal size for a nursery decoration, a baby shower gift, or a collectible stuffed animal that sits on a shelf and makes everyone smile.
Let’s gather our materials and get started.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin crocheting, having everything on hand will make the process much smoother. Here is what you will need for this amigurumi teddy bear.
You will need worsted weight yarn in your chosen bear color. The classic choice is a warm tan, honey brown, or caramel, but this pattern works beautifully in any solid color. You will also need a small amount of a contrasting yarn in a lighter shade for the muzzle, or you can use the same color if you prefer a more uniform look. A skein of dark brown or black embroidery floss is used for the nose and mouth details.
For your hook, a size E (3.5mm) crochet hook is recommended for worsted weight yarn. The tighter gauge that a slightly smaller hook produces compared to the yarn label recommendation gives amigurumi its characteristic firm, dense fabric that holds stuffing well and keeps the polyfill from poking through.
You will also need a bag of polyfill stuffing, a yarn needle for sewing pieces together, two safety eyes in either 9mm or 12mm size depending on the look you prefer, scissors, and stitch markers to keep track of your rounds.
If you are making this bear for a child under three years of age, skip the safety eyes entirely and use black embroidery floss to stitch the eyes directly onto the fabric. Safety eyes, despite their name, can become a choking hazard if a determined baby manages to pull them loose.
Understanding Amigurumi Basics
If you are new to amigurumi, a few foundational concepts will serve you well throughout this pattern and every amigurumi project you make afterward.
Amigurumi is worked almost entirely in continuous rounds rather than joined rounds. This means you do not slip stitch to close each round and chain one to begin the next. Instead, you work in a continuous spiral, which is why stitch markers are so important. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you complete each round so you always know where you are.
The magic ring, also called a magic circle or adjustable ring, is the standard way to begin amigurumi pieces. It creates a tight, closed center that does not leave a hole in the top of a piece the way a traditional chain ring can. If you have not worked a magic ring before, take a few minutes to practice it before starting the pattern. Once it clicks, you will use it constantly.
All increases in this pattern are made by working two single crochets into the same stitch. All decreases are invisible decreases, which means you insert your hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches and complete a single crochet. This technique creates a much neater decrease than a standard single crochet two together.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
MR – magic ring
SC – single crochet
INC – increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
DEC – invisible decrease (single crochet two together through front loops)
ST(S) – stitch(es)
BLO – back loop only
FO – fasten off
SL ST – slip stitch
CH – chain
Crocheting the Head
The head is the most important piece and the one you will work on first. Getting the head right sets the tone for the whole bear.
Start with a magic ring and chain one (this chain does not count as a stitch throughout the pattern).
Round 1: Work 6 SC into the magic ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. You will have 6 stitches.
Round 2: INC in each stitch around. You will have 12 stitches.
Round 3: (SC 1, INC) repeat around. You will have 18 stitches.
Round 4: (SC 2, INC) repeat around. You will have 24 stitches.
Round 5: (SC 3, INC) repeat around. You will have 30 stitches.
Round 6: (SC 4, INC) repeat around. You will have 36 stitches.
Round 7: (SC 5, INC) repeat around. You will have 42 stitches.
Rounds 8 through 14: SC in each stitch around. Work seven straight rounds with no increases or decreases. You will have 42 stitches per round.
Round 15: (SC 5, DEC) repeat around. You will have 36 stitches.
Round 16: (SC 4, DEC) repeat around. You will have 30 stitches.
At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, spacing them about 8 to 10 stitches apart. Once the eyes are positioned where you like them, press the washers firmly onto the backs. There is no undoing this, so take your time and make sure you are happy with the placement before committing.
Round 17: (SC 3, DEC) repeat around. You will have 24 stitches.
Begin stuffing the head firmly. You want it to hold its shape and feel solid, not squishy. Continue stuffing as you close the head.
Round 18: (SC 2, DEC) repeat around. You will have 18 stitches.
Round 19: (SC 1, DEC) repeat around. You will have 12 stitches.
Round 20: DEC repeat around. You will have 6 stitches.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and weave through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and weave in the end.
Crocheting the Muzzle
The muzzle gives your bear its sweet, distinctive expression, so take care with this small piece.
Round 1: MR, 6 SC. Pull closed. You will have 6 stitches.
Round 2: INC in each stitch around. You will have 12 stitches.
Round 3: (SC 1, INC) repeat around. You will have 18 stitches.
Round 4: SC in each stitch around. You will have 18 stitches.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the muzzle. Flatten it slightly as you pin it to the face, centering it between and just below the eyes. Sew it to the head using your yarn needle and the long tail, making sure the edges are smooth and even before you pull the yarn too tight.
Once the muzzle is sewn on, use three strands of embroidery floss to embroider the nose. Create a small, rounded triangular shape at the top center of the muzzle by working straight stitches close together. Then bring the floss down from the bottom point of the nose triangle, make a short straight stitch downward, and then branch each side out to form a smile. The smile stitches can curve upward slightly to give your bear a happy expression.
Crocheting the Body
The body is a slightly larger oval shape that will hold most of your polyfill.
Round 1: MR, 6 SC. You will have 6 stitches.
Round 2: INC in each stitch around. You will have 12 stitches.
Round 3: (SC 1, INC) repeat around. You will have 18 stitches.
Round 4: (SC 2, INC) repeat around. You will have 24 stitches.
Round 5: (SC 3, INC) repeat around. You will have 30 stitches.
Round 6: (SC 4, INC) repeat around. You will have 36 stitches.
Rounds 7 through 14: SC in each stitch around. Eight straight rounds. You will have 36 stitches per round.
Round 15: (SC 4, DEC) repeat around. You will have 30 stitches.
Round 16: (SC 3, DEC) repeat around. You will have 24 stitches.
Round 17: (SC 2, DEC) repeat around. You will have 18 stitches.
Begin stuffing the body now and continue as you work the next rounds.
Round 18: (SC 1, DEC) repeat around. You will have 12 stitches.
Round 19: DEC repeat around. You will have 6 stitches.
Fasten off and close as you did with the head. Leave a long tail if you want to use it for sewing the head to the body, or set the tail aside and use a fresh length of yarn for assembly.
Crocheting the Arms (Make Two)
Round 1: MR, 6 SC. You will have 6 stitches.
Round 2: INC in each stitch around. You will have 12 stitches.
Rounds 3 through 10: SC in each stitch around. Eight straight rounds.
At the end of round 10, flatten the opening of the arm and SC across through both layers to close it flat, creating a little paddle shape. This technique makes sewing the arms to the body much easier and gives the arm a natural angle. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Crocheting the Legs (Make Two)
Round 1: MR, 6 SC. You will have 6 stitches.
Round 2: INC in each stitch around. You will have 12 stitches.
Round 3: (SC 1, INC) repeat around. You will have 18 stitches.
Round 4: SC in BLO in each stitch around. Working through the back loop only in this round creates a defined ridge for the sole of the foot. You will have 18 stitches.
Round 5: SC in each stitch around. You will have 18 stitches.
Round 6: SC 6, DEC, SC 2, DEC, SC 6. You will have 16 stitches.
Round 7: SC 6, DEC, DEC, SC 6. You will have 14 stitches.
Rounds 8 through 13: SC in each stitch around. Six straight rounds.
Close the leg the same way as the arms, flattening and single crocheting across both layers. Fasten off and leave a long tail.
Crocheting the Ears (Make Two)
Round 1: MR, 6 SC. You will have 6 stitches.
Round 2: INC in each stitch around. You will have 12 stitches.
Round 3: (SC 1, INC) repeat around. You will have 18 stitches.
Round 4: SC in each stitch around. You will have 18 stitches.
Fasten off and leave a long tail. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten and fold the base slightly to give each ear a gentle curved shape before sewing them to the top of the head.
Assembling Your Amigurumi Teddy Bear
Assembly is where your individual crocheted pieces transform into a real bear, and it is worth taking your time here. Good assembly makes the difference between a bear that looks professionally made and one that looks a little wobbly.
Start by attaching the head to the body. Position the head so that the face is centered and looking straight ahead. Pin it in place with stitch markers before sewing to make sure it is level. Use your yarn needle and a long length of yarn to sew through the stitches around the neck opening, picking up stitches from both the body and the base of the head alternately. Pull firmly as you go to create a tight, clean join. Weave through the join a second time for extra security, then fasten off and hide the ends inside the body.
Attach the legs next. Position them on either side of the body base so that the bear will sit or stand evenly. The flat-closed top of each leg should sit flush against the body. Sew through the flattened top several times in different directions to create a strong attachment, then fasten off and hide the ends.
The arms go on the sides of the upper body, roughly level with where the neck meets the body. Angle them slightly forward and downward so the bear looks like it is ready for a hug. Sew them on securely the same way you attached the legs.
Finally, position the ears on the top of the head. Place them symmetrically, using stitch markers to check that they sit at equal heights and distances from center. Sew each ear on using its long tail, making sure the base of the ear is firmly anchored to the head fabric all the way around.
Finishing Touches
Once all pieces are assembled, do a final inspection of all sewn seams and pull any loose ends through to the inside of the pieces with your yarn needle. Hide the ends by running them through the stuffing and out a different exit point, then snip them close to the fabric. The stuffing holds the yarn in place so the ends do not come loose.
If you want to add extra character to your bear, there are several embellishments to consider. A simple bow tied from a contrasting ribbon and attached just below the chin is a classic detail that suits bears of all styles. You can also add small felt inner ears by cutting two small oval shapes from felt in a contrasting color and gluing or stitching them to the front of each ear. A tiny crocheted hat or scarf made from leftover yarn turns a plain bear into a seasonal decoration. Some makers like to lightly blush the cheeks and paws using a cotton swab and a small amount of chalk-based blush or powdered pigment, which gives the bear a rosy, lifelike glow.
Tips for the Best Amigurumi Results
Tension is everything in amigurumi. If your stitches are too loose, the fabric will have gaps and the stuffing will show through. Try going down one hook size if your tension is naturally loose. If the fabric feels stiff and difficult to work, try going up one hook size.
Count your stitches at the end of every round when you are working increases and decreases. It takes an extra thirty seconds per round, but catching a mistake early saves significant time compared to discovering an error ten rounds later.
Do not overstuff or understuff. Overstuffing creates a taut, slightly misshapen piece that can pull seams apart over time. Understuffing results in a limp, deflated look. Aim for a firm but slightly yielding feel, like a stress ball.
Blocking is not commonly done with amigurumi the way it is with flat crochet projects, but a light steam from an iron held several inches away from the finished bear can smooth out any slightly uneven areas.
Gifting and Caring for Your Handmade Bear
A handmade amigurumi bear is a meaningful gift for babies, toddlers, and adults alike. If you are gifting the bear to a young child, always use embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes, check all seams for security, and use a non-toxic, hypoallergenic stuffing. Wash the yarn before use if you know the recipient has sensitive skin.
For care, most worsted weight acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Natural fiber yarns like cotton or wool should be hand washed in cool water and laid flat to dry. Reshape the bear while still damp and allow it to air dry completely before giving it to a child.
Making This Pattern Your Own
Once you have made the basic pattern a few times and feel comfortable with the process, the creative possibilities open up enormously. Changing the yarn color produces a whole different character, from classic brown bears to polar bears in white, panda-style bears in black and white, or even fantasy bears in pink, lavender, or teal. Adding stripes, swapping the muzzle color, trying different eye
