Sloth Lovey Crochet Pattern | Easy Amigurumi Animal Lovey
There is something wonderfully ironic about crafting a sloth. These slow-moving, tree-hanging creatures have become one of the most beloved animals in the crochet world, and when you combine a sloth with a lovey design, you get one of the most adorable baby gifts imaginable. A sloth lovey is the perfect project for crafters of all skill levels — it brings together the charm of amigurumi with the practicality of a security blanket, creating a soft, snuggly companion that babies and toddlers absolutely adore.
In this post, you will find a complete, step-by-step sloth lovey crochet pattern with easy instructions, helpful tips, yarn recommendations, and all the information you need to make this project a success. Whether you are a beginner looking for your first amigurumi-style project or an experienced crocheter wanting a quick and satisfying make, this pattern is designed to be approachable and fun.
What Is a Lovey, and Why Are They So Popular?
A lovey is essentially a hybrid toy — part stuffed animal, part security blanket. It consists of a small stuffed animal head attached to a flat, square or hexagonal blanket base. The blanket gives babies something soft and textured to grip, snuggle against, and pull over themselves, while the animal head gives them a face to focus on and form an attachment to.
Loveys have been popular for decades because they serve a genuine developmental purpose. Many pediatric sleep consultants recommend introducing a lovey around four to six months of age, once a baby can roll over independently. The familiar scent and soft texture of a lovey can help comfort babies during sleep transitions, nap time, and moments of stress like doctor’s visits or new environments.
The sloth in particular has become a darling of the lovey world because of its round, expressive face and inherently sleepy vibe. A sloth lovey seems born to be a sleep companion. The closed or half-open eyes and peaceful expression feel perfect for bedtime, and the soft, fuzzy quality of a well-chosen yarn mimics the look and feel of a real sloth’s fur.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather everything you need so the process flows smoothly.
Yarn: You will need a soft worsted weight yarn (size 4) in medium brown, a lighter tan or cream for the face, and small amounts of dark brown or black for the features. Many crocheters love using Lion Brand Pound of Love, Paintbox Simply DK, or Bernat Baby Blanket yarn for the lovey body due to its softness against delicate skin. For the head, a smooth yarn in the same weight will give you the clearest stitch definition for the amigurumi portion.
Hook: A 4.0mm or 4.5mm crochet hook works well for worsted weight yarn. You want your stitches tight enough that the stuffing does not show through but not so tight that your hands cramp.
Other supplies: Polyester fiberfill stuffing, a yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends, stitch markers, two 9mm or 12mm safety eyes (or embroidered eyes for babies under three years old), and scissors.
Optional: A small piece of gray or dark felt or foam safety backing if you use safety eyes, and a tapestry needle for any embroidery details on the face.
Pattern Notes and Abbreviations
This pattern is written in American crochet terminology.
Magic ring = MR
Chain = ch
Slip stitch = sl st
Single crochet = sc
Half double crochet = hdc
Double crochet = dc
Increase = inc (two sc in the same stitch)
Decrease = dec (invisible decrease: insert hook through front loop of next two stitches, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops)
Round = rnd
Stitch = st
Beginning of round = BOR
Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round to keep your place.
The Lovey Blanket Base
The blanket portion is worked from the center outward in joined rounds with chains and double crochets to create a lacy, open design that drapes beautifully. You can also work a solid granny square or a simple flat square if you prefer a fully opaque base. The instructions below create a classic open-center square.
Foundation: With your main brown yarn, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, (3 dc in ring, ch 2) 3 times, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (4 groups of 3 dc with ch-2 corner spaces)
Round 2: Sl st to corner space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner space, ch 1. Repeat from the previous parenthetical around, ending with 3 dc in first corner space, ch 2, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (8 groups of 3 dc)
Round 3: Sl st to corner space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1. Repeat around, ending with 3 dc in first corner, ch 2, join. (12 groups of 3 dc)
Continue this pattern, adding one additional group of 3 dc and one ch-1 space between each corner in every round, until your blanket square measures approximately 10 to 12 inches from corner to corner, or until you are happy with the size. A 10-inch square is a good starting point for an infant lovey, while 12 to 14 inches works nicely for a toddler.
When you reach your desired size, fasten off and weave in the end. Set the blanket aside.
The Sloth Head
This is the amigurumi portion of the lovey, and it is worked in continuous rounds.
Color change note: The sloth’s face mask is a distinctive oval shape. You can either crochet the face mask separately and sew it on, or work in a contrasting color for the center rounds. The instructions below include the face separately for cleaner color work.
Main Head (in brown yarn):
Round 1: MR, 6 sc in ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) around. (18 sts)
Round 4: (Sc 2, inc) around. (24 sts)
Round 5: (Sc 3, inc) around. (30 sts)
Round 6: (Sc 4, inc) around. (36 sts)
Round 7: (Sc 5, inc) around. (42 sts)
Rounds 8–14: Sc around in each st. (42 sts, 7 rounds)
Round 15: (Sc 5, dec) around. (36 sts)
Round 16: (Sc 4, dec) around. (30 sts)
At this point, attach your safety eyes or embroider your eyes. Position them between rounds 10 and 11, spaced about 8 to 10 stitches apart. If you are making this lovey for a baby under three, always embroider the eyes rather than using safety eyes, as even safety eyes can present a choking hazard if removed.
Round 17: (Sc 3, dec) around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly with polyester fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you close the remaining rounds.
Round 18: (Sc 2, dec) around. (18 sts)
Round 19: (Sc 1, dec) around. (12 sts)
Round 20: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread onto a yarn needle and pull through the remaining 6 stitches to close. Weave in the end.
The Sloth Face Mask
Work this piece flat in tan or cream yarn.
Row 1: MR, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, do not join. Turn. (6 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, inc in each st. Turn. (12 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (12 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, (sc 1, inc) across. Turn. (18 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (18 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, (sc 2, inc) across. Turn. (24 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. This creates a rounded oval shape that you will position on the front of the sloth’s head, centered between the eyes. Use your yarn needle to whipstitch it in place, taking care not to flatten the head.
Once the face mask is sewn on, embroider the nose with a small V-shape or a simple circle in dark brown or black yarn at the center of the face, a couple of rounds below the eyes. Add a small curved smile if you like, or leave the expression minimal for that classic sleepy sloth look.
The Sloth Arms
Make two. These will be left unattached at the base so they can wrap around the blanket edge loosely, giving the lovey its signature hugging look.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc in ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4–6: Sc around. (18 sts)
Round 7: (Sc 1, dec) around. (12 sts)
Stuff lightly — you want the arms to feel soft and floppy rather than stiff.
Rounds 8–14: Sc around. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not close the opening at the end of the arm; this end will be sewn to the head and blanket assembly.
The Sloth Ears
Make two in brown yarn.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc in ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc around. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten each ear and sew them to the sides of the head at approximately round 4 or 5, positioned just above the face line on each side.
Assembling the Sloth Lovey
Assembly is the step that brings everything together, and taking your time here makes all the difference in the final result.
Begin by laying your finished blanket flat and finding the center of one edge. You will attach the sloth head to the center of any one side of the blanket, or to the center point of the blanket itself depending on your preference. Most loveys attach the head to the center of one side rather than the very middle, which makes it easier for babies to grip.
Using your yarn needle and a length of matching brown yarn, sew the bottom of the sloth head securely to the blanket. Work your way around the opening of the head in a circular motion, catching both the blanket stitches and the edge of the head opening so the join is strong. Pull gently as you go to ensure there are no gaps — the stitching needs to be secure enough that it will not pull loose during baby’s enthusiastic tugging.
Next, position the arms. Bring one arm up from below the blanket on each side of the head, so that the arms appear to be reaching around and hugging the center point. Sew the open end of each arm to the underside of where the head meets the blanket, and also tack each arm lightly to the back of the head and to the blanket surface so they stay in the hugging position rather than flopping around loosely.
Give the entire piece a gentle once-over. Check that all your safety eyes are firmly in place (or that all embroidery is tightly knotted on the inside), that all yarn ends are thoroughly woven in and trimmed, and that there are no loose loops or tails that could catch on tiny fingers.
Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas
One of the joys of making a handmade lovey is the ability to personalize it. Here are a few ideas to make your sloth lovey unique.
You can add a little texture to the sloth’s fur by surface slip stitching or brushing the brown yarn with a stiff bristle brush after the piece is complete, which gives the head a soft, fuzzy, furry look that closely resembles a real sloth. This works best with yarn that has some natural fiber content or a slightly looser twist.
Consider adding long claws to the arms using dark brown or black yarn. Simply embroider three or four long stitches at the end of each arm to represent the sloth’s characteristic long claws.
You can also change the color palette entirely. Gray sloths are equally popular, and a pale lavender or soft sage green sloth can look whimsical and beautiful. Newborn loveys often look especially sweet in neutral tones like oatmeal, soft gray, and cream.
If you want to make a more advanced version, you can add a small body beneath the head before attaching the blanket, giving the sloth a slightly three-dimensional torso. This is a nice touch if the lovey is intended more as a display piece or decorative toy rather than a true security blanket.
Care Instructions for the Finished Lovey
Loveys get used hard. They get dragged along floors, dribbled on, stuffed in diaper bags, and washed countless times. Making sure your finished piece holds up to real-world baby use is important.
Machine wash in a mesh laundry bag on a gentle or delicate cycle in cold water. This protects the stitches and keeps the amigurumi head from getting misshapen. Lay flat to dry or tumble dry on low. Avoid wringing the piece, as this can distort the head and flatten the stuffing unevenly.
If possible, choose yarns that are specifically labeled as machine washable, as this makes the care process much simpler for the parents. Acrylic yarns are an excellent choice for this reason, as they are durable, washable, hypoallergenic, and come in a wonderful range of soft, baby-friendly colors.
Tips for Beginner Crocheters
If this is one of your first amigurumi projects, a few general tips will help you get the most out of the experience.
Tension matters more in amigurumi than in almost any other crochet project. Work tightly and consistently so that the stuffing does not peek through your stitches. If you find your stitches are too loose, try dropping down a hook size.
The magic ring is a foundational technique for amigurumi, and if it feels tricky at first, practicing it a few times on scrap yarn before starting your actual project will build your muscle memory and make the process feel much smoother.
Using a stitch marker religiously is not optional in amigurumi — it is essential. Continuous rounds can become confusing very quickly without a marker to anchor your round beginnings. A simple piece of contrasting yarn works perfectly if you do not have stitch markers on hand.
Stuff the head more than you think you need to. Understuffed amigurumi heads look flat and sad, and the stuffing always compresses over time with use. A firmly stuffed head holds its round shape beautifully and gives the finished piece a professional, polished look.
Why a Handmade Lovey Makes the Perfect Gift
In a world of mass-produced baby goods, a handmade crochet lovey stands apart. It carries the time, care, and intention of the person who made it. When you give a handmade sloth lovey as a baby shower gift, a newborn gift, or even a first birthday present, you are giving something that cannot be bought in a store — a one-of-a-kind, made-with-love companion that may very well become one of the baby’s most treasured possessions.
Many crocheters find that sloth loveys become a go-to pattern for gifting precisely because they are quick enough to complete in a weekend but look impressive enough to feel truly special. The reaction from new parents when they unwrap a beautifully finished handmade lovey is almost always one of genuine delight, and knowing you made something that a child will carry with them for years is one of the most rewarding feelings in the craft.
Whether you
