Panda Bear Crochet Pattern – Cute Amigurumi Panda Tutorial

There is something undeniably magical about turning a simple ball of yarn into a soft, round little panda bear. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for your next weekend project or a beginner ready to try your first amigurumi, this panda bear crochet pattern is the perfect place to start. With its chubby body, signature black-and-white coloring, and those irresistible dark eye patches, an amigurumi panda has a way of melting hearts the moment it is finished. This tutorial will walk you through every step of the process, from the materials you will need to the final finishing touches, so you can create your very own cuddly panda plushie with confidence.

What Is Amigurumi?

Before we dive into the pattern, let’s take a quick moment to talk about amigurumi for anyone who might be new to the craft. Amigurumi is the Japanese art of knitting or crocheting small, stuffed yarn creatures. The word itself is a combination of the Japanese words “ami,” meaning crocheted or knitted, and “nuigurumi,” meaning stuffed doll. These adorable little figures typically have oversized, round heads; small, compact bodies; and simple facial features that give them an endearing, childlike appearance.

The amigurumi style originated in Japan and grew into a global crafting phenomenon, with crocheters all over the world sharing patterns for everything from classic animals and food characters to mythical creatures and beloved fictional characters. The panda bear is one of the most popular amigurumi subjects, and it is easy to see why. The panda’s natural black-and-white markings translate beautifully into crochet, and the finished result always looks impressive even though the technique itself is surprisingly approachable.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather everything on this list so you won’t have to stop mid-project to search for supplies.

Yarn: You will need worsted weight yarn in white and black. The amounts are modest — roughly 100 grams of white and 50 grams of black will more than cover most standard-sized amigurumi pandas in the 6–8 inch finished range. If you want a mini panda, you can work with DK weight yarn and a smaller hook.

Crochet Hook: A 3.5mm (size E/4) hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn when working amigurumi. You want a tighter fabric than you would normally crochet so the stuffing doesn’t show through the stitches.

Safety Eyes: Two 12mm black safety eyes work beautifully for a panda of this size. If you are making this toy for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead of using plastic safety eyes.

Polyfill Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill stuffing is the standard choice. Use enough to make the finished pieces firm and round without overstuffing to the point where seams are strained.

Yarn Needle: A blunt tapestry needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.

Stitch Markers: These are essential for amigurumi. You will be working in continuous rounds, and a stitch marker placed at the beginning of each round will save you a lot of counting frustration.

Scissors: Any pair will do.

Optional: Pink yarn or embroidery floss for a little blush on the cheeks, and black embroidery floss for stitching the nose and mouth.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic Ring (also called a magic circle)
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (two single crochets into the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook into the front loops of the next two stitches and single crochet them together)
st(s) — stitch(es)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
Rnd — round
Rep — repeat

All pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless the pattern specifically says so. Move your stitch marker up each round as you go.

Pattern Notes

Gauge: Approximately 5 sc × 5 rows = 1 inch with a 3.5mm hook and worsted weight yarn. Gauge is not critical for amigurumi as long as your fabric is tight enough that stuffing won’t show through.

Finished Size: Approximately 7 inches tall when made with the materials listed above.

Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate. If you know how to single crochet, increase, decrease, and work in the round, you can make this panda.

Construction Overview: The panda is made in separate pieces — head, body, ears, eye patches, arms, legs, and tail — which are then assembled using a yarn needle and whip stitch. Start with the head and body, then make the smaller pieces while your main pieces dry or set. Assembly is the final step and often the most satisfying one.

The Pattern

HEAD

The head is the largest and most important piece, so it gets all the attention first. Work in white yarn.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, sc 6 into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) repeat around. (48 sts)
Rnds 9–16: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — 8 rounds even
Rnd 17: (Sc 6, dec) repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 18: (Sc 5, dec) repeat around. (36 sts)

Before continuing, this is the time to insert your safety eyes. Place them between rounds 13 and 14, spaced about 12 stitches apart. The eye patches will be attached after assembly, but placing the eyes now while the head is still open makes the process much easier. If you are embroidering the eyes, wait until the head is stuffed and closed.

Rnd 19: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 20: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. (24 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly. Continue adding stuffing as you close the last few rounds.

Rnd 21: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 22: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 23: Dec 6 times around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Close the hole by threading your yarn needle through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pulling tight, and weaving in the end.

BODY

Work in white yarn.

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnds 7–15: Sc in each st around. (36 sts) — 9 rounds even
Rnd 16: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (30 sts)
Rnd 18: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 19: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Rnd 20: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. (18 sts)

Stuff the body firmly before closing.

Rnd 21: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 22: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)

Fasten off as with the head, closing the hole with your needle.

EARS (Make 2)

Work in black yarn.

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Sl st to join and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears — they look best when flat and slightly floppy.

EYE PATCHES (Make 2)

These oval-shaped black patches give the panda its most recognizable feature. Work in black yarn.

Rnd 1: Ch 4, sc in the second ch from hook, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working along the opposite side of the chain: sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st, sl st to join. (10 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc, sc 2, inc 3, sc 2, inc 2, sl st to join. (16 sts)

Fasten off with a long tail for sewing. These will be placed around the safety eyes once the head is assembled.

ARMS (Make 2)

Work in black yarn.

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnds 3–10: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Flatten the arm and stuff lightly, or leave unstuffed if you prefer poseable, floppy arms. Sc through both layers to close the top. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.

LEGS (Make 2)

Work in black yarn.

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 7: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnds 8–12: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Stuff the legs firmly. Flatten and sc through both layers to close. Fasten off with a long tail.

TAIL

Work in white yarn.

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Sl st to join, fasten off with a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

SNOUT

Work in white yarn.

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Sl st to join. Fasten off with a long tail. Do not stuff. This will be pinned flat against the lower front of the face before sewing.

Assembly

This is where your panda comes to life, and the process is incredibly satisfying. Take your time with assembly — neatly sewn pieces make a huge difference in the finished look.

Start by sewing the body to the head. Use your yarn needle and a length of white yarn to whip stitch around the opening of the neck area, joining the two main pieces securely. The head should sit slightly forward on the body for that classic amigurumi look.

Next, position the eye patches around the safety eyes and pin them in place before sewing. The patches should be centered horizontally around each eye, sitting between rounds 11 and 15 on the face. Use your long black tail and yarn needle to stitch them down neatly, going around the entire edge of each oval.

Sew the snout onto the lower center of the face, between roughly rounds 16 and 20. Once it is secured around the edges, use black embroidery floss or black yarn to stitch a small oval or triangular nose at the top of the snout, then add a simple “Y” shape below it for the mouth.

Sew the ears to the top of the head, one on each side, using your black yarn tails. Position them between rounds 1 and 5 at the top of the head, spaced evenly.

Attach the arms to either side of the body, roughly between rounds 5 and 8. The arms should angle very slightly downward and forward. If you want a sitting panda, position the legs pointing forward from the base of the body rather than hanging down.

Sew the tail to the back center of the body, low near the base.

If you want to add rosy cheeks, use a small amount of pink yarn or embroidery floss to make a few small stitches in a circular pattern on either side of the snout, below the eye patches.

Tips for the Best Results

Working in a continuous spiral rather than joined rounds is one of those techniques that feels counterintuitive at first but makes a huge difference in the seamless look of amigurumi. Always use a stitch marker and move it up every single round without exception.

The invisible decrease (inserting your hook through only the front loops of the next two stitches before completing your single crochet) gives a much cleaner, less visible decrease than the standard method. Once you get the hang of it, you will use it for every amigurumi you make.

When stuffing, resist the urge to use too much fiberfill at once. Add small amounts gradually and shape the piece as you go. Overstuffed amigurumi tend to look lumpy and misshapen, while pieces stuffed thoughtfully have smooth, round surfaces.

If your stitches feel too loose and you can see the white stuffing peeking through the black yarn, try going down one hook size. Black yarn in particular has a tendency to look gappy because the dark color makes the gaps stand out more.

For a professional finish, always weave in your ends securely with at least two different directions of weaving. Amigurumi gets handled a lot, especially if it is a gift for a child, and loose ends have a way of working themselves free over time.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own amigurumi is the freedom to customize. Here are a few ways to put your own spin on this panda pattern.

You can make a giant panda by doubling the hook size and using super bulky yarn. The construction is identical, but your finished panda will be closer to 14 or 15 inches tall — perfect as a floor-sitting stuffed animal.

A baby panda version works beautifully in fingering weight or sport weight yarn with a 2.5mm hook, resulting in a tiny 3-inch panda that makes a sweet keychain or ornament. Just skip the safety eyes and embroider tiny dot eyes instead.

You can dress your panda in a little crocheted outfit — a simple rectangle sewn into a tube makes a tiny dress or shirt. A small bow attached to one ear gives your panda an instant personality upgrade.

For a more expressive face, experiment with the placement of the eye patches. Tilting them slightly creates different expressions, from curious to sleepy to mischievous.