No Sew Chubby Pig Crochet Pattern Free: The Cutest Amigurumi You’ll Ever Make

If you’ve been scrolling through crochet inspiration boards lately, chances are you’ve stumbled upon the irresistibly round, squishy little pigs that seem to be taking the crafting world by storm. There’s something about a chubby amigurumi pig that just makes everyone smile — those little curly tails, the rosy snouts, the pudgy little legs that can barely hold up the weight of all that adorable roundness. Today, I’m sharing a completely free no sew chubby pig crochet pattern that’s perfect for beginners and experienced crocheters alike.

The best part? This pattern is truly no sew. Every piece is joined as you go or fastened off and attached through crocheting directly onto the body, minimizing the amount of needle and thread work you’ll need. A few minor attachment steps are simplified to make this as beginner-friendly as possible, and I’ll walk you through every stitch.

Grab your yarn, your hook, and maybe a cozy drink, because we’re about to make something incredibly cute.

Why You’ll Love This No Sew Chubby Pig Crochet Pattern

Before we dive into the actual pattern, let me tell you why this specific design stands out from the dozens of pig amigurumi patterns floating around the internet.

First, the shape. Most amigurumi pigs end up looking a little elongated or oddly proportioned. This pattern is specifically designed to give you that ultra-round, chubby silhouette that makes the finished piece look almost like a plush toy you’d find in a high-end boutique. The secret is in the increase and decrease ratios in the body — we go wider and fuller than a standard amigurumi sphere, creating that signature “overstuffed” look.

Second, the no sew approach. Traditional amigurumi patterns require you to sew individual pieces together using a yarn needle and a mattress stitch or similar technique. For beginners, this is often the hardest and most frustrating part. Seams can look uneven, pieces shift while you’re stitching, and the whole process can be time-consuming. This pattern eliminates most of that headache by using a join-as-you-go method and by crocheting smaller pieces directly onto the body.

Third, it’s genuinely free. No email sign-up required, no PDF to purchase. Everything you need is right here.

Materials You’ll Need

To make your no sew chubby pig, gather the following supplies before you start.

For yarn, you’ll want a worsted weight (size 4) yarn in pink for the main body. A soft, slightly matte yarn works beautifully for amigurumi because it doesn’t split easily and gives a smooth finish. You’ll also need a small amount of dark pink or dusty rose for the inner ears and snout, and a tiny bit of white and black for the eyes if you’re not using safety eyes.

For your hook, a 3.5mm crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn when making amigurumi, since we intentionally go down a hook size to create a tighter fabric that holds the stuffing well without gaps.

You’ll also need polyester fiberfill stuffing, a pair of 12mm safety eyes (or black yarn/felt for embroidered eyes if this is for a child under three), a yarn needle for weaving in ends and doing the minimal attachment needed for the curly tail, stitch markers, and scissors.

Optional but recommended: a little bit of blush-colored eyeshadow or chalk to add rosy cheeks to the finished pig. This tiny detail takes the cuteness factor from a ten to an eleven.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.

MR stands for magic ring. Ch means chain. Sl st is slip stitch. Sc is single crochet. Inc means increase, which is two single crochets worked into the same stitch. Dec means invisible decrease, which is working a single crochet through the front loops of two stitches together. BLO means back loop only. FLO means front loop only. St stands for stitch, and sts is the plural. R stands for round.

The Pattern: No Sew Chubby Pig

Body

The body is the heart of this project, and it’s where the chubby magic happens. We’re making a shape that’s a little flatter on the bottom and fuller around the middle than a standard sphere.

R1: Start with a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tight to close. (6 sts)

R2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

R4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

R5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

R6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)

R7: [Sc 5, inc] repeat 6 times. (42 sts)

R8: [Sc 6, inc] repeat 6 times. (48 sts)

R9: [Sc 7, inc] repeat 6 times. (54 sts)

R10: [Sc 8, inc] repeat 6 times. (60 sts)

R11 through R18: Sc in each st around. (60 sts) — This is 8 rounds of straight single crochet, which gives us that lovely wide belly.

R19: [Sc 8, dec] repeat 6 times. (54 sts)

R20: [Sc 7, dec] repeat 6 times. (48 sts)

R21: [Sc 6, dec] repeat 6 times. (42 sts)

At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, spacing them about 12 stitches apart. This placement might feel low, but remember — the top of the body will be the pig’s forehead, and the snout attaches to the front. Once your eyes are in, continue.

R22: [Sc 5, dec] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)

R23: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Now stuff the body firmly. Really pack it in — the chubby shape depends on good, dense stuffing. Keep stuffing as you continue.

R24: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

R25: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

R26: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)

R27: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to weave through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in the end.

Head

For this no sew chubby pig pattern, the head and body are worked as one continuous piece, so there’s no need to sew them together at all. However, if you prefer a separate head, you can work the body above and make a smaller sphere using the same increase and decrease formula but stopping at round 8 (30 stitches) instead of going to 60.

If you’d like to keep them as one piece, after round 18 (the last straight round on the body), you’ll want to change to working from the top of the body and shaping upward. The simplest approach for beginners, though, is to make a separate head of about 30 stitches at its widest point, stuff it firmly, and attach it to the top of the body by crocheting through both layers using a slip stitch join. This creates an almost invisible attachment that holds securely without traditional sewing.

To make a separate head, work as follows.

R1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)

R2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)

R3: [Sc 1, inc] x6. (18 sts)

R4: [Sc 2, inc] x6. (24 sts)

R5: [Sc 3, inc] x6. (30 sts)

R6 through R10: Sc around. (30 sts)

R11: [Sc 3, dec] x6. (24 sts)

R12: [Sc 2, dec] x6. (18 sts)

Stuff firmly.

R13: [Sc 1, dec] x6. (12 sts)

R14: Dec x6. (6 sts)

Close as before. To attach, hold the head on top of the body in the position you want, then use your hook to slip stitch through corresponding stitches of both pieces around the join. This is the closest thing to “sewing” in this pattern, but it’s done entirely with your crochet hook and takes just a few minutes.

Snout

The snout is a small flat oval that we’ll attach directly to the front of the head by crocheting it on.

Ch 4.

R1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, then 3 sc in the last ch. Working back along the other side of the chain: sc 1, then 2 sc in the first ch to finish the oval. (8 sts)

R2: Inc, sc 1, inc 3 times, sc 1, inc. (14 sts)

R3: Sc around. (14 sts)

Fasten off with a long tail. Position the snout at the center front of the head, between the eyes. Using the long tail and a yarn needle, whipstitch it in place, or for a more no sew approach, pin it in place and use your crochet hook to join with a slip stitch through both layers of the snout edge and the head surface. Embroider two small oval nostrils using dark pink or brown yarn.

Ears

R1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)

R2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)

R3: [Sc 1, inc] x6. (18 sts)

R4: Sc around. (18 sts)

Fold the circle in half and slip stitch across the open edge to close it, creating a half-moon ear shape. Do not stuff. Fasten off with a long tail.

For the inner ear, make a smaller version using dark pink or dusty rose yarn: MR, 6 sc, inc in each st (12 sts), then fasten off. Place this small circle on the flat side of the ear and either sew it on or use a slip stitch join around the edges.

To attach the ears to the head, position them on either side of the top of the head. Crochet them directly onto the head surface using a slip stitch join, working through the bottom edge of the ear and into the head stitches simultaneously. This creates a firm, neat attachment.

Legs (Make 4)

R1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)

R2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)

R3: Working in BLO, sc around. (12 sts) — This creates a visible ridge that defines the hoof.

Switch to pink yarn.

R4 through R7: Sc around. (12 sts)

Stuff lightly — not too firmly, as the legs look cuter when they’re slightly floppy and squishable.

R8: Dec x6. (6 sts)

Close and leave a long tail. To attach legs without sewing, position each leg on the underside of the body and use your hook to slip stitch through the open base of the leg and into the body stitches, joining them as you go. The invisible decrease used throughout creates a clean look on the outside of the leg.

Curly Tail

The tail is the one small element where a yarn needle does come in handy, but the method is simple enough that even beginners handle it easily.

Cut a length of pink yarn about 10 inches long. Thread it onto your yarn needle and insert it through the back of the body, leaving a short tail inside. Bring the needle back through the body about half an inch from where you entered. You should now have a small loop of yarn on the outside of the body. Twist this loop tightly several times in one direction, then fold it in half — it will naturally curl on itself to form a spiral. Stitch through the base of the curl to secure it and weave in the ends inside the body.

For an even more no-sew approach, you can chain 8 stitches, slip stitch back down the chain to create a natural curl, and then join this piece directly onto the body using a slip stitch join at the base.

Tips for Getting That Perfect Chubby Shape

The most common question I get about amigurumi pigs is how to make them look genuinely round and plump rather than kind of deflated or pointy. A few things make a significant difference.

Stuffing is everything. Use more fiberfill than you think you need. Push it into every corner of the body, getting particularly generous around the middle. If you press the finished piece against a flat surface and it flattens rather than staying round, add more stuffing before closing.

Hook size matters more than people realize. Going down to a 3.5mm hook with worsted weight yarn (rather than the recommended 5mm) creates a tight fabric with no gaps. This keeps the stuffing from poking through and gives the pig that smooth, velvety surface.

Tension consistency is key. Try to keep your tension even throughout. If you notice some rounds are looser than others, your pig will have lumpy patches. Take breaks if your hands start to fatigue, since tired hands often mean uneven tension.

Don’t skip the invisible decrease. The standard decrease creates small bumps on the surface of amigurumi. The invisible decrease (worked through the front loops only of two stitches) creates a nearly flat surface that looks polished and professional.

Finishing Touches That Elevate the Cuteness

Once your pig is assembled, a few small details make a huge difference. Take a small amount of pink or peach eyeshadow on a cotton swab and gently apply it to the cheeks, just below and slightly to the outside of each eye. This gives the pig an adorable blushing expression. You can also apply a tiny bit to the tips of the ears.

If you want to give your pig a little more personality, embroider a small curved smile below the snout using dark pink or brown yarn and a simple backstitch. This only takes about two minutes but transforms the expression completely.

For the eyes, if you’re making this pig for a child under three years old, skip the safety eyes entirely and use black felt circles glued on with fabric glue, or embroider French knot eyes using black yarn. Safety eyes, despite their name, can become a choking hazard if removed, and are not recommended for very young children.

Gift Ideas and Uses for Your Chubby Pig

This little pig makes a wonderful gift for so many occasions. A pair of chubby pigs in white and pink makes a sweet Valentine’s Day gift. A whole family of pigs in graduating sizes is an irresistible baby shower present. Single pigs in novelty yarn colors — think speckled, gradient, or even glittery yarn — make fun desk toys and fidget-friendly stress relievers for adults.

You can also adapt the basic body shape to make other chubby animals by changing the ear shape, snout placement, and color. The same body works for a bear (add round ears and a brown snout), a bunny (elongate the ears), or even a hippo (flatten the snout more and use grey yarn). Once you master this pattern, you have a versatile base for an entire farm’s worth of friends.

Storing and Caring for Your Crochet Pig

Finished amigurumi made with acrylic yarn are generally machine washable on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag. If you used natural fibers like wool or cotton, hand washing in cool water is safer to prevent felting or shrinking. Lay the finished piece flat or stuff it loosely into its original shape while it dries to keep the stuffing from shifting. Most amigurumi benefit from a gentle reshaping while still damp, since this is your opportunity to encourage that perfect round chubby silhouette once more.

One Last Thought

Crochet has this remarkable ability to take something as simple as yarn and a hook and turn it into something that genuinely brings joy to people. Every time someone sees one of these chubby little pigs sitting on a shelf or tucked into a gift bag, they smile. That’s the whole point