How To Crochet Penguin Amigurumi For Ornaments & Keychains
Few things are as satisfying as finishing a tiny crocheted creature that you made entirely with your own two hands. Penguin amigurumi are especially beloved because they’re compact, expressive, and versatile enough to become holiday ornaments, bag charms, zipper pulls, or gifts for just about anyone on your list. If you’ve made a few amigurumi before and want a project that’s charming without being overly complicated, this is the one for you. And if this is your first time, don’t worry — I’ll walk you through everything from materials to the final knot.
By the end of this guide, you’ll have a finished penguin that stands roughly 3 to 4 inches tall, perfect for hanging on a Christmas tree or clipping to a backpack. Let’s get into it.
What You’ll Need
Before you cast on a single stitch, gathering your materials makes the whole process much smoother. Here’s a full list of what you’ll need to crochet your penguin amigurumi.
Yarn: You’ll need three colors. Black (or very dark navy) for the body and head, white for the tummy and eye patches, and orange or yellow for the beak and feet. A small amount of each is all you need — worsted weight (size 4) yarn works well and gives good stitch definition, but you can also use sport weight if you want a smaller finished piece. Acrylic yarn is ideal for ornaments and keychains because it’s lightweight and holds up to handling.
Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook pairs well with worsted weight yarn. You want the fabric to be tight so the stuffing doesn’t show through. If your tension runs loose, go down a hook size.
Safety eyes: Two 6mm black safety eyes are the standard choice. If you’re making this ornament for a child under three, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead to avoid any choking hazard.
Stuffing: A small amount of polyfill stuffing. For keychains, you can stuff it a little lightly so it sits flat, or go full and round for an ornament.
Yarn needle: You’ll use this for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch marker: A locking stitch marker helps you track the beginning of each round when crocheting in the round.
Scissors.
For the ornament version: A small metal ornament hook or a length of ribbon.
For the keychain version: A keychain ring and a short jump ring, or a lobster clasp keychain hardware set from a craft store.
Stitch Glossary
This pattern uses US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference:
Magic ring (MR): A starting loop that allows you to pull the center closed. You can substitute a ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook if you find the magic ring tricky.
sc: Single crochet.
inc: Increase — 2 single crochets in the same stitch.
dec: Decrease — invisible decrease worked by inserting your hook through the front loops only of the next two stitches and working them together.
sl st: Slip stitch.
ch: Chain.
FO: Fasten off.
BLO: Back loops only.
All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of each round unless the pattern specifically says to.
Understanding Amigurumi Construction
Penguin amigurumi are made in separate pieces — the body, the wings, the feet, and the beak — which are then assembled at the end. The eyes go in before you fully close the head section, so keep that in mind as you work.
The body and head are crocheted as one continuous piece from the bottom up, which saves you a seam. The tummy patch is crocheted separately and sewn on before the body is stuffed, or you can work it in as a color change. The method below keeps it simple by making the tummy patch as a separate flat oval and sewing it on, which gives you more control over placement.
Pattern: Penguin Amigurumi Body & Head
Color: Black
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30)
Rounds 6–8: Sc in each st around. (30) — 3 rounds
Round 9: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24)
Round 10: Sc in each st around. (24)
Round 11: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18)
At this point, sew on your white tummy patch (instructions below) before continuing. Then stuff the body firmly.
Round 12: Sc in each st around. (18)
Round 13: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24)
Round 14: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30)
Rounds 15–17: Sc in each st around. (30) — 3 rounds
Now insert your safety eyes, placing them between rounds 15 and 16, about 5 to 6 stitches apart. If you made white eye patches (optional, described below), attach them first, then push the safety eyes through the patch and into the head.
Round 18: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24)
Round 19: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18)
Round 20: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12)
Stuff the head firmly. Add a little extra stuffing so the head feels full and round.
Round 21: Dec around. (6)
FO, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to pull the tail through all 6 remaining stitches and cinch closed. Weave in the end on the inside.
Tummy Patch
Color: White
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18)
Row 4 (optional for an oval shape): Turn, ch 1, sc across 9 stitches, turn, ch 1, sc back across 9 stitches. FO leaving a long tail.
Pin the oval to the front of the body with the widest part centered around rounds 6 through 10. Use the long tail to whip stitch it in place, then weave in the end. The patch should sit flat against the body without puckering.
Eye Patches (Optional)
These give your penguin that classic look with white circles around the eyes.
Color: White
Make two. MR, 6 sc, sl st to join, FO leaving a long tail. Position each circle on the head where the eyes will go, sew on, then push the safety eye post through the center of the crocheted circle and secure with the washer.
Wings (Make 2)
Color: Black
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18)
Rounds 4–6: Sc in each st around. (18)
Round 7: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12)
Round 8: Sc in each st around. (12)
Fold the wing flat and sl st across the opening to close it. Do not stuff. FO leaving a long tail for sewing.
Pin the wings to the sides of the body, positioned somewhere around rows 13 to 15. The flat sealed edge should face forward slightly, angled downward. Sew in place securely using the yarn tail, going through the body stuffing and back out a few times to anchor it. Weave in ends.
Beak
Color: Orange or yellow
Round 1: MR, 4 sc. (4)
Round 2: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (6)
Round 3: Sc in each st around. (6)
FO leaving a long tail. Do not stuff. Pinch the beak into a slight point and sew it onto the face between the eyes, centered. The beak should sit right between the two eye patches if you used them, pointing slightly downward for maximum cuteness.
Feet (Make 2)
Color: Orange or yellow
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rounds 3–4: Sc in each st around. (12)
Round 5: BLO, sc 1, dec repeat around. (8)
FO leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff or leave unstuffed. Flatten and sew to the bottom of the body. Position them pointing forward and outward slightly to give your penguin a stable stance and that classic waddle look. If you’re making a keychain, the feet are optional since the penguin will be hanging, but they add a lot of charm.
Finishing & Assembly Tips
Assembly is where the penguin comes to life, and a little patience here makes a huge difference. Use pins to place every piece before you sew anything permanently. Step back and look at it from different angles — sometimes a beak that looks right from straight on looks too high when you see it from the side.
When sewing pieces on, go back and forth through the joint several times before knotting. Amigurumi take a lot of handling, especially keychains, and you want those seams to hold. Always knot your ending tail and then bury it inside the body by inserting the needle into the body, pulling the tail taut, and snipping it flush so it disappears.
For a cleaner finish, use a strand of black yarn to embroider a tiny smile just below the beak. Two small straight stitches angled upward from a center point create a simple smile. You can also add a blush to each cheek using a pink colored pencil or chalk pastel — rub a little color onto a cotton swab and dab gently. This small detail transforms the face from blank to expressive.
How To Finish As an Ornament
Once your penguin is fully assembled, cut a 6-inch length of ribbon or yarn. Fold it in half and thread the loop through the top of the penguin’s head using a crochet hook or tapestry needle — insert the hook between stitches near the top, catch the loop, and pull it through just far enough to thread the tails through and pull snug. This creates a lark’s head knot that’s secure and tidy. Thread the ends through a metal ornament hook and twist the hook closed.
Alternatively, when you’re closing round 21 of the head, leave a small loop before fastening off and use that loop directly as your hanging point. This is seamless and very secure.
For a holiday feel, you can use sparkly yarn for the body or add a tiny bow tie made from a scrap of ribbon tied in a bow and sewn at the neck. A Santa hat crocheted from red and white yarn is another popular addition — ch 3, 6 sc in second chain from hook, then work a small cone shape decreasing every other round.
How To Finish As a Keychain
For a keychain, you’ll attach a small jump ring to the top of your penguin. Use a tapestry needle to thread a 4-inch length of yarn or thin cord through the top of the head, double it, and tie it securely around a jump ring or D-ring. Then attach your keychain hardware — a lobster clasp chain works beautifully and is available at any craft or hardware store for very little cost.
If you want a cleaner look, sew a small ribbon loop to the top of the head before closing it, thread the ribbon loop through the jump ring, and seal it with a small dab of fabric glue on the knot.
Because keychains get jostled, make sure all your sewn pieces are extra secure. Consider using a small dab of fabric glue at each joint after sewing — it won’t show, but it adds durability.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about this pattern is how easy it is to personalize. Here are a few ways to make your penguin unique.
Scarves: Cut a strip of contrasting yarn about 8 inches long, fray the ends slightly, and tie it around the neck with a loose knot. Red and white for Christmas, teal for a cute everyday look, or rainbow for pride.
Hats: A tiny beanie is just a small tube crocheted in a contrast color, with a bit of decrease at the top and a slightly wider brim. Slip it onto the head before sewing the wings in place so you can get the angle right.
Bow ties and ties: A simple rectangle of felt or woven ribbon folded and pinched at the center makes a dapper little bow tie. Glue or sew it at the neck just above where the tummy patch begins.
Color variations: Fairy penguin amigurumi look adorable in blue-gray rather than black. For a fantasy twist, use deep purple and gold. Holiday versions in red and green are guaranteed to be a hit.
Names and dates: If you’re making these as gifts or keepsakes, embroider a name or date in tiny letters on the tummy patch using a contrasting color and a yarn needle. It takes patience but the result is incredibly personal.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
My stitches are too loose and the stuffing shows through. Try going down one hook size, or double strand a lighter weight yarn. Tighter tension creates a denser fabric that hides the stuffing.
The pieces won’t stay attached. Make sure you’re going through the body of the amigurumi when you sew — not just catching the surface. The needle should go in, pass through some stuffing, and come out the other side before returning to the joint.
My magic ring keeps coming undone. Pull the tail end firmly and immediately before starting round 2. Some people also add a small knot at the pull end for extra security on very small pieces.
The head looks too big or too small for the body. This usually comes down to tension. If the head is bigger than expected, try going down a hook size for the head rounds only. If it’s smaller, go up. A slight mismatch can also be disguised by how you position the head during assembly.
I can’t get the eyes to sit right. Place them before you close the head so you still have enough access to move them around. Use pins to test placement first. The eyes should be on the front-facing portion of the head, at the same height, and evenly spaced on either side of where the beak will go.
Making a Batch for Gifting or Selling
If you plan to make several of these — for holiday gift bags, craft fairs, or an Etsy shop — a few workflow tips will save you a lot of time. Crochet all your bodies first, then all your wings, then all your beaks, then all your feet. This production-line approach means you’re not constantly switching tasks. Keep a small tray or divided container to hold the tiny pieces for each penguin so nothing gets lost.
For consistent sizing across a batch, use the same hook throughout and try to crochet at the same time of day — believe it or not, tension can vary with fatigue. Weight your finished unstuffed pieces before closing them to make sure they feel similar.
If you plan to sell these, check the regulations for your country or region regarding safety eyes on items sold as toys, especially items intended for young children. Many sellers include a note specifying that items with safety eyes are decorative and not suitable for children under three, which is a good practice regardless.
Final Thoughts
Crocheted penguin amigurumi are one of those projects you’ll return to again and again. They’re fast enough to finish in an evening, small enough to take on the go, and just detailed enough to feel like a real accomplishment when they’re done. Whether you hang yours on a tree, clip it to your bag, or give it to someone who needs a little smile, there’s something genuinely lovely about a tiny creature made entirely by hand.
Save this pattern, bookmark it, share it with a friend who crochets. And if your first penguin doesn’t come out perfect, keep it anyway — sometimes the wonky ones have the most character.
