Halloween Witch Crochet Doll Tutorial — Step-by-Step Amigurumi Pattern 🎃

If you’ve been searching for the perfect spooky season crochet project, you’ve found it. This Halloween witch crochet doll tutorial walks you through every single step of creating an adorable amigurumi witch — complete with her pointy hat, flowing dress, little broom, and wild yarn hair. Whether you’re a beginner who has made a few amigurumi pieces before or an experienced crocheter looking for a fun seasonal pattern, this guide has everything you need to bring your little witch to life before October 31st arrives.

Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed characters, and it’s one of the most satisfying crafts you can dive into. The pieces are small enough to finish in a weekend, the yarn requirements are minimal, and the result is an irresistibly charming finished piece. A Halloween witch is the perfect amigurumi subject — she has personality, she’s festive, and she makes an amazing gift, shelf decoration, or photo prop for spooky season content.

Let’s grab our hooks and get started.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you begin crocheting, gather all of your supplies. Having everything on hand before you start means you won’t have to pause mid-project.

Yarn: You’ll need worsted weight yarn (size 4) in the following colors: black (for the hat and dress), purple or dark green (for the body/skin tone of your witch), orange (for accents or the broom), tan or brown (for the broom handle), and yellow or white for hair. You can absolutely swap colors to suit your vision — a green-skinned witch is classic, while a pale lavender witch feels a little more whimsical.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works well with worsted weight yarn for a tight amigurumi stitch. Tight tension is important in amigurumi so the stuffing doesn’t peek through.

Other supplies: Polyfill stuffing, two 9mm or 12mm safety eyes (black), a yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends, stitch markers, scissors, and optional craft wire if you’d like to pose your witch’s arms.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic ring (also called a magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook in front loop of next two stitches, pull up two loops, yarn over, pull through all three)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
rep — Repeat

All rounds are worked in continuous rounds (a spiral) unless otherwise noted. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Part One: The Head

The head is typically the first piece crocheted in amigurumi because it sets the scale for all the other parts.

Rnd 1: Start with your skin color yarn. MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc* rep 6 times. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc 2, inc* rep 6 times. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: *Sc 3, inc* rep 6 times. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: *Sc 4, inc* rep 6 times. (36 sts)

Rnd 7: *Sc 5, inc* rep 6 times. (42 sts)

Rnds 8–14: Sc around. (42 sts, 7 rounds even)

Rnd 15: *Sc 5, dec* rep 6 times. (36 sts)

Rnd 16: *Sc 4, dec* rep 6 times. (30 sts)

Before you close the head completely, insert your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, with about 10 stitches between them. This placement gives your witch a wide, expressive face. Once your eyes are secured, begin stuffing the head firmly.

Rnd 17: *Sc 3, dec* rep 6 times. (24 sts)

Rnd 18: *Sc 2, dec* rep 6 times. (18 sts)

Rnd 19: *Sc 1, dec* rep 6 times. (12 sts)

Rnd 20: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of the last 6 stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.

Part Two: The Body

The body is worked in black yarn to represent the witch’s dress. It’s shaped wider at the bottom to give the impression of a flowing skirt.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc 1, inc* rep 6 times. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc 2, inc* rep 6 times. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: *Sc 3, inc* rep 6 times. (30 sts)

Rnds 6–8: Sc around. (30 sts)

Rnd 9: *Sc 4, inc* rep 6 times. (36 sts)

Rnds 10–12: Sc around. (36 sts)

Rnd 13: *Sc 5, inc* rep 6 times. (42 sts)

Rnds 14–16: Sc around. (42 sts)

Now you’ll work in BLO to create a ridge at the hem of the skirt that makes it look more like a ruffled edge.

Rnd 17: Working in BLO, sc around. (42 sts)

Rnd 18: *Sc 5, dec* rep 6 times. (36 sts)

Rnds 19–21: Sc around. (36 sts)

Rnd 22: *Sc 4, dec* rep 6 times. (30 sts)

Stuff the body firmly as you work, adding more stuffing before you close it completely.

Rnd 23: *Sc 3, dec* rep 6 times. (24 sts)

Rnd 24: *Sc 2, dec* rep 6 times. (18 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.

Part Three: The Arms

Make two arms in your skin color yarn.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)

Rnds 3–5: Sc around. (12 sts)

Rnd 6: *Sc 1, dec* rep 4 times. (8 sts)

Switch to black yarn.

Rnds 7–14: Sc around. (8 sts)

Lightly stuff the top portion of each arm. You can leave the hand area un-stuffed or add a tiny bit of stuffing if you prefer. Flatten the top of the arm and close with a row of sc through both layers. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Part Four: The Legs and Shoes

Make two legs. Start with black yarn for the boots.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc in BLO around. (12 sts)

Rnds 4–6: Sc around. (12 sts)

Rnd 7: Dec 3 times across the front, sc remaining sts. (9 sts)

Switch to your skin color yarn.

Rnds 8–14: Sc around. (9 sts)

Stuff the leg as you go. Flatten the top and close with sc through both layers. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Part Five: The Witch Hat

This is one of the most iconic parts of the whole doll. The hat is worked in black from the tip down.

Rnd 1: MR, 4 sc. (4 sts)

Rnd 2: Sc around. (4 sts)

Rnd 3: Inc in each st. (8 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc around. (8 sts)

Rnd 5: *Sc 1, inc* rep 4 times. (12 sts)

Rnd 6: Sc around. (12 sts)

Rnd 7: *Sc 2, inc* rep 4 times. (16 sts)

Rnd 8: Sc around. (16 sts)

Rnd 9: *Sc 3, inc* rep 4 times. (20 sts)

Rnd 10: Sc around. (20 sts)

Rnd 11: *Sc 4, inc* rep 4 times. (24 sts)

Rnd 12: Sc around. (24 sts)

Rnd 13: *Sc 5, inc* rep 4 times. (28 sts)

Now you’ll make the brim of the hat by working increases to create a flat circle that fans out.

Rnd 14: Inc in each st. (56 sts)

Rnd 15: *Sc 1, inc* rep 28 times. (84 sts)

Rnd 16: Sl st around to finish. Fasten off, weave in ends.

You can add a decorative band to the hat using a contrast color. Simply cut a length of orange or purple yarn and use your needle to weave it in and out of stitches around round 12 or 13 of the hat cone, then tie it in a little bow.

Part Six: The Hair

For wild witch hair, cut approximately 30–40 lengths of yellow or white yarn, each about 20–25cm long. Fold each strand in half and use your crochet hook to attach them to the head with a lark’s head knot, working around the crown of the head from one side to the other. Leave the front of the head (the face area) clear of hair.

Once all the hair is attached, you can leave it loose and wild for a classic witchy look, braid it, or separate it into two pigtails secured with tiny yarn ties. Trimming the ends to an even length gives a neater look if you prefer that over the scraggly witch aesthetic.

Part Seven: The Mini Broom

A witch without a broom is just a woman in a black hat — so let’s make her a broom.

For the handle, cut a wooden skewer or craft stick to about 10–12cm in length. Alternatively, crochet a chain of about 25 stitches and sl st back along it to create a firm cord, then stuff it tightly.

For the broom bristles, cut about 20–25 strands of tan or brown yarn, each about 8cm long. Bundle them together at one end and tie them securely with a separate length of yarn. Attach this bundle to the bottom of the handle using more yarn wrapping, covering the tie. Spread the bristles out slightly at the bottom so the broom has a natural fan shape. Trim the ends evenly.

You can also wrap the top of the bristle area with orange yarn in a criss-cross pattern for an extra decorative touch.

Assembly: Putting Your Witch Together

This is the step where everything comes to life, and it’s deeply satisfying.

Sew the head to the body, lining up the face with the front of the body. Use the long yarn tail from the body and your yarn needle to stitch around the opening of the neck area, pulling tight and secure. Add extra stitches in several directions to make sure the head is firmly attached and doesn’t wobble.

Next, sew the arms to either side of the body at about rounds 22–23 (the shoulder area). Position them slightly forward if you want your witch to look like she’s reaching for her broom. Use the long tails from the arms and stitch back and forth several times before weaving in the end.

Sew the legs to the bottom of the body, centering them on the front half so the witch can appear to stand or sit. The spacing between the legs should feel natural — about two or three stitches apart.

Place the hat on top of the head. If you want it to stay put permanently, add a few stitches through the brim of the hat and into the head. If you want it removable (which is a fun option), leave it unattached or use a stitch of matching yarn just at the back.

Attach the hair if you haven’t already, working the lark’s head knots into the crown and sides of the head.

Finally, pose the broom in one of her hands and stitch it lightly in place if desired.

Finishing Touches and Embellishments

Now is the time to give your witch her personality.

Using black embroidery thread or thin black yarn, embroider a small smile below the safety eyes. A slight curve upward gives a friendly witch, while a flatter or slightly downturned smile creates a more mysterious expression. You can also add tiny nostrils or even a little curved line for a nose.

Add rosy cheeks by using a small amount of pink blush or chalk pastel, applying it in gentle circular motions to the cheek area with a cotton ball or makeup brush. This touch transforms the doll from a craft project into something that looks like a finished product from a boutique.

If you’d like, add a tiny orange or purple bow to the hat, stitch on a crescent moon or star shape in yellow yarn, or even add a small felt cape over the shoulders. Little felt stars glued or stitched to the dress look absolutely magical and take only a few minutes to cut and attach.

Tips for Success

Tight tension is the foundation of good amigurumi. If your stitches are loose and you can see the stuffing, try going down a hook size. It’s normal to feel like the work is very tight while crocheting — that’s exactly what you want.

Always use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. It’s very easy to lose track in continuous spiral rounds, and a stitch marker saves a lot of frustration and frogging.

Stuff your pieces as you go rather than waiting until the very end. It’s much easier to add stuffing through a larger opening than to try to push it in through a small closed gap.

When sewing pieces together, use the same yarn you crocheted with so the seams blend naturally. Stitch back and forth several times and in multiple directions to ensure a strong, durable join.

If you’re making this doll as a gift for a child under three, replace the safety eyes with embroidered eyes using black yarn or felt circles. Safety eyes, despite their name, can be pulled out by very young children.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own amigurumi Halloween witch is that you can customize her endlessly.

Try making a family of witches in different sizes by adjusting your hook size or yarn weight. A bulky yarn with a 6mm hook creates a chunkier, larger doll in roughly the same number of rounds. A fingering weight yarn with a 2mm hook creates a tiny miniature witch you could use as an ornament.

Change the skin color to green for a classic Halloween witch, lavender for a magical fairy-witch vibe, or keep it natural for a more