Häkelanleitung: Jimothy the Raccoon Plush — Your Complete Step-by-Step Crochet Pattern
There is something deeply satisfying about pulling a finished amigurumi off your hook and holding it up to the light. After hours of counting stitches and weaving in ends, a soft, round-bellied little creature looks back at you, and for a moment the whole project feels like a small miracle. Jimothy the Raccoon is exactly that kind of project. He is charming enough to display on a shelf, sturdy enough to become a child’s favorite companion, and approachable enough for a confident beginner to tackle over a weekend. This complete crochet pattern walks you through every step of making Jimothy, from the materials you need to the final embroidered details that give him his signature masked expression.
Who Is Jimothy?
Before we get to the hook and yarn, let’s talk about the character. Jimothy is a plump, round-bodied raccoon standing roughly 22–25 centimeters tall when finished. He has a classic raccoon color palette — soft grey for the body, warm cream or off-white for the muzzle and inner ears, and charcoal or dark grey for the iconic mask around his eyes and the rings on his tail. His limbs are stubby and satisfying, his belly is slightly rounded, and his tail is long and fluffy-looking despite being made of the same smooth yarn as the rest of him. He is named Jimothy because every good plush animal deserves a name that is just slightly too formal for a stuffed raccoon.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials together before you start saves a lot of time and frustration. Here is everything you need for one Jimothy:
Yarn: You will need a medium-weight (worsted weight, roughly 4 mm) yarn in the following colors. The quantities are approximate and depend on your tension.
Grey — approximately 100 grams. This is the main body color.
Off-white or cream — approximately 30 grams. Used for the muzzle, inner ears, and belly patch.
Dark charcoal or black — approximately 25 grams. Used for the mask, paw pads, and tail rings.
A small amount of pink for the nose — one or two meters is plenty.
Black embroidery floss or very thin black yarn for the eyes and mouth.
Hook: A 3.5 mm or 4 mm crochet hook works well with worsted weight yarn. The finished fabric should be tight enough that the stuffing does not show through.
Other supplies: Polyester fiberfill stuffing, a yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends, stitch markers (at least two or three), a pair of 12 mm or 15 mm safety eyes, and scissors.
Optional but helpful: a set of plastic pellets in a small bag placed inside the body to add weight and help Jimothy sit upright without tipping.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern is written in standard US crochet terminology.
MR — magic ring
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook in front loop of next stitch, then front loop of following stitch, yarn over, pull through both, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
sl st — slip stitch
ch — chain
st(s) — stitch(es)
(x) — the number in parentheses at the end of a round indicates the total stitch count for that round
All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each new round.
The Head
The head is worked from the top down.
Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) repeat 6 times (24)
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) repeat 6 times (30)
Round 6: (sc 4, inc) repeat 6 times (36)
Round 7: (sc 5, inc) repeat 6 times (42)
Round 8: (sc 6, inc) repeat 6 times (48)
Rounds 9–17: sc in each st around (48) — 9 rounds even
Round 18: (sc 6, dec) repeat 6 times (42)
Round 19: (sc 5, dec) repeat 6 times (36)
At this point, attach the safety eyes. Place them between rounds 13 and 14, approximately 8–10 stitches apart. You will embroider the mask shape around them later, so do not worry about their exact position just yet — center them as best you can by looking at the face straight on.
Round 20: (sc 4, dec) repeat 6 times (30)
Stuff the head firmly with polyester fiberfill now, continuing to add stuffing as you close the piece.
Round 21: (sc 3, dec) repeat 6 times (24)
Round 22: (sc 2, dec) repeat 6 times (18)
Round 23: (sc 1, dec) repeat 6 times (12)
Round 24: dec 6 times (6)
Close the opening by weaving the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.
The Muzzle
The muzzle is a small flat oval worked separately and sewn onto the front of the face.
Using off-white or cream yarn:
Round 1: ch 4, sc in second ch from hook, sc 1, 3 sc in last ch; working along the opposite side of the chain: sc 1, 2 sc in last st (8)
Round 2: inc, sc 1, inc 3 times, sc 1, inc 2 times (14)
Round 3: sc in each st around (14)
Sl st to finish, leave a long tail for sewing. Using the pink yarn, embroider a small triangular nose at the top center of the muzzle before sewing it to the head. Position the muzzle in the center of the face, just below and between the safety eyes, and sew it down carefully, stuffing a tiny amount of fiberfill underneath as you go to give it a slightly puffy, rounded look.
The Ears (Make Two)
Each ear has an outer part in grey and an inner part in cream.
Outer ear (grey):
Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2: inc in each st (12)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
Round 4: sc in each st around (18)
Inner ear (cream):
Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2: inc in each st (12)
Round 3: sc in each st around (12)
Sl st to finish. Place the inner ear on top of the outer ear and sew around the edge to join them, leaving the bottom edge open. Pinch the bottom of the combined ear slightly and sew it to the top of the head, spacing the ears about 5–6 stitches apart.
The Body
The body is worked from the bottom up.
Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2: inc in each st (12)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) repeat 6 times (24)
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) repeat 6 times (30)
Round 6: (sc 4, inc) repeat 6 times (36)
Round 7: (sc 5, inc) repeat 6 times (42)
Rounds 8–15: sc in each st around (42) — 8 rounds even
Round 16: (sc 5, dec) repeat 6 times (36)
Round 17: sc in each st around (36)
Round 18: (sc 4, dec) repeat 6 times (30)
Round 19: sc in each st around (30)
Round 20: (sc 3, dec) repeat 6 times (24)
Stuff the body, adding the optional pellet bag at the bottom before filling the rest with fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you close.
Round 21: (sc 2, dec) repeat 6 times (18)
Round 22: (sc 1, dec) repeat 6 times (12)
Round 23: dec 6 times (6)
Close and weave in the end. Sew the head to the body, aligning the seam at the back. The neck join should be snug and secure — go around the attachment twice if needed.
The Arms (Make Two)
Using grey:
Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2: inc in each st (12)
Round 3: sc in each st around (12)
Switch to charcoal for the paw pad section:
Round 4: sc in each st around (12)
Switch back to grey:
Rounds 5–10: sc in each st around (12)
Leave the arms lightly stuffed or unstuffed — unstuffed arms have a floppy, natural hang that many makers prefer. Flatten the top of the arm and sew it closed with a few stitches before attaching it to the body at shoulder height, just below where the head meets the body.
The Legs (Make Two)
Using charcoal for the paw section:
Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2: inc in each st (12)
Round 3: sc in each st around (12)
Round 4: (sc 2, dec) repeat 3 times (9)
Switch to grey:
Rounds 5–10: sc in each st around (9)
Stuff the legs lightly. Flatten and sew closed, then attach to the lower front of the body so that Jimothy can sit stably.
The Tail
The tail is the most distinctive part of any raccoon, and Jimothy’s is no exception. It is worked in alternating bands of grey and charcoal to create the classic ringed look.
Using grey:
Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Round 2: inc in each st (12)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) repeat 6 times (24)
Rounds 5–7: sc in each st around (24) — grey
Switch to charcoal:
Rounds 8–10: sc in each st around (24)
Switch to grey:
Rounds 11–13: sc in each st around (24)
Switch to charcoal:
Rounds 14–16: sc in each st around (24)
Switch to grey:
Rounds 17–20: sc in each st around (24)
Round 21: (sc 2, dec) repeat 6 times (18)
Round 22: (sc 1, dec) repeat 6 times (12)
Round 23: dec 6 times (6)
Stuff the tail firmly and close the tip. Sew the base of the tail to the lower back of the body.
Adding the Mask
The raccoon mask is what turns a generic grey plush into an unmistakably Jimothy-looking raccoon. There are two approaches.
The embroidery method works beautifully if you are comfortable with a needle and floss. Using dark charcoal yarn or several strands of black embroidery floss, embroider around each eye in a rough teardrop or shield shape — wide above the eye, narrowing to a point near the muzzle. The two mask shapes should almost meet at the bridge of the nose. Fill in the shapes with satin stitch or closely packed running stitches until the area is fully covered.
The applied piece method involves crocheting a flat mask piece in charcoal and sewing it onto the face. To do this, chain 20 and work a row of single crochet back along the chain, shaping around each eye position as you go. This method takes a bit more trial and error but gives a cleaner, more graphic look.
Either approach is valid. The embroidery method is faster; the applied piece method is more precise. Choose the one that fits your skill level and aesthetic preference.
Finishing Details and Tips
Once all the pieces are assembled, take your time on the final details. These small touches are what elevate a good plush to a great one.
Tighten and recheck every sewn joint. A Jimothy that loses an arm mid-cuddle is a tragedy. Go back over each attachment with a few extra stitches if anything feels loose.
Trim all yarn ends cleanly and weave them in securely using your yarn needle. Thread the tail back through several stitches in different directions so it cannot work its way out.
Shape the face. A light squeeze and reshape while the piece is still fresh will help the head hold its round form. If the top of the head dimples inward slightly, you can massage it from the inside through the neck opening before sewing the head to the body.
Consider a light brushing. If you used a smooth acrylic yarn and want a slightly fluffier texture, very gently running a pet slicker brush over the body and tail can create a subtle fuzziness without distorting the stitches.
Making Jimothy Child-Safe
If this plush is intended for a young child, replace the safety eyes with embroidered or crocheted eyes before finishing the head. Safety eyes are firmly locked in but are still a small part, and for children under three the safest option is always an embroidered detail. Use black yarn and a satin stitch to create solid round eyes, or add a small white highlight stitch for a more expressive look.
Similarly, make sure that all yarn ends are very securely woven in and that the seams are reinforced. A well-made amigurumi can withstand a tremendous amount of affection.
Sizing and Gauge Notes
The finished size of your Jimothy depends on your hook size, your yarn weight, and your personal tension. Working tighter produces a smaller, firmer plush; working looser produces a larger, softer one. If you want a larger Jimothy — a cuddly version rather than a display piece — try going up to a 5 mm hook with a bulky weight yarn. The pattern structure works the same way; you simply scale up. A bulky Jimothy can reach 35–40 centimeters and makes an excellent pillow companion.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
The pieces look too small. Check your hook size and tension. If your stitches are very tight, try going up half a hook size.
The stuffing shows through the fabric. Your tension is too loose. Try going down half a hook size or switching to a slightly finer yarn.
The head wobbles. Make sure you are stuffing the body firmly enough, and use multiple passes when sewing the head joint.
The mask looks uneven. This is extremely common and almost always invisible from more than a foot away. Work the mask slowly, stepping back frequently to check the balance between the two sides.
Why Amigurumi Projects Like This One Are Worth the Time
Crochet plush patterns have become one of the most searched and shared categories of craft content for a reason. They combine a manageable skill curve with a deeply satisfying result. Jimothy the Raccoon specifically appeals to makers of all ages because raccoons have a cultural moment that shows no sign of ending — they are clever, a little mischievous, and almost universally beloved. A handmade Jimothy makes a meaningful gift, a charming nursery decoration, or a small personal project to decompress after a long week.
The pattern as written is designed to be completed in two to three sessions of focused work. If you are new to amigurumi, the head and body alone make a fine first attempt before you add the limbs and details. Experienced makers will move through the piece quickly and can spend their energy on the embellishments that make each Jimothy unique.
Every stitch you put into this little raccoon is a stitch well spent. When you hold him up at the end and his slightly solemn, masked face looks back at you, you will understand exactly why people keep coming back to this craft.
Happy hooking, and give Jimothy our warmest regards.
