Free Pink Hoodie Bunny Crochet Pattern | Easy Beginner Amigurumi PDF

If you’ve been looking for the cutest little crochet project to add to your crafting lineup, you’ve just found it. This free pink hoodie bunny crochet pattern is everything you need to make an absolutely adorable amigurumi rabbit dressed in a tiny pink hoodie — and the best part is that it’s designed with beginners in mind. Whether you’re brand new to amigurumi or you’ve made a few stuffed animals before and want something fun and manageable, this pattern walks you through every step with clear instructions and simple techniques.

Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed animals and characters, and it has taken the crafting world by storm for good reason. The projects are small, they use minimal yarn, and the finished results look incredibly impressive even when the methods are straightforward. This pink hoodie bunny is a perfect introduction to the craft, combining a classic rabbit shape with a tiny removable or attached hoodie detail that gives the character so much personality. When you’re done, you’ll have a handmade toy that looks like it came straight from a boutique shop.

Let’s get into everything you need to know before you start crocheting.

What You’ll Need to Make This Pink Hoodie Bunny

Before diving into the pattern itself, gather your materials. You don’t need much, which is part of what makes amigurumi so appealing for beginners.

Yarn: You’ll need a light worsted weight or DK weight yarn in white or cream for the bunny’s body, and pink yarn for the hoodie. Soft acrylic yarns work beautifully for amigurumi because they hold their shape well, are easy to wash, and come in a wide range of colors. Some popular choices include Lion Brand Pound of Love, Red Heart Soft, or Paintbox Simply DK. You won’t need more than about 100 grams of body-colored yarn and 50 grams of pink yarn for the hoodie.

Crochet Hook: A 3.0mm or 3.5mm crochet hook works well with worsted or DK weight yarn for amigurumi. The goal is to crochet with a hook size slightly smaller than what the yarn label recommends. This creates tighter stitches so your stuffing doesn’t show through.

Stuffing: Polyfill stuffing (polyester fiberfill) is the standard for amigurumi. It’s lightweight, washable, and gives your bunny a satisfying, soft squish. A small bag goes a long way.

Safety Eyes: Most amigurumi makers use black plastic safety eyes. For this bunny, 8mm or 10mm eyes work perfectly. If you’re making this for a baby or very young child, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead, since safety eyes can pose a choking hazard.

Yarn Needle: You’ll need a blunt tapestry needle to weave in your ends and sew pieces together.

Stitch Markers: These are helpful for marking the beginning of each round, especially when you’re new to crocheting in the round.

Scissors: Any sharp pair will do.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This pattern uses US crochet terminology. Here are the abbreviations you’ll see throughout:

MR — Magic Ring
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook into front loops of next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st — stitch
rnd — round
rep — repeat

If you’re unfamiliar with any of these techniques, there are wonderful video tutorials available on YouTube that demonstrate the magic ring, the invisible decrease, and crocheting in the round. Watching even a five-minute video on the invisible decrease alone will transform the look of your finished amigurumi.

Pattern Notes for Beginners

Amigurumi is worked in a continuous spiral rather than joined rounds. This means you don’t slip stitch to close each round — you just keep going. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round. Move it up as you go.

Stuff the body and head as you work, not all at once at the end. This gives you more control over the shape and firmness.

If you find your stitches are too loose and you can see the stuffing through the fabric, try going down one hook size or holding your tension a bit tighter.

The hoodie in this pattern is worked separately and slipped over the bunny’s body before sewing the head on, or it can be made with an opening that slips over after assembly. Instructions are included for both approaches.

Free Pink Hoodie Bunny Crochet Pattern

Part 1: The Bunny Body

Round 1: Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Rounds 7–12: Sc in each st around. (36 sts) — 6 rounds even
Round 13: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 14: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 15: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the body firmly at this point.

Round 16: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 17: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail to weave in. The body is now complete.

Part 2: The Head

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Rounds 7–12: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Round 13: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 14: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)

Attach safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, about 8–10 stitches apart. For embroidered eyes, complete the head first and embroider after.

Round 15: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)

Stuff the head firmly before closing.

Round 16: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 17: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the head to the top of the body securely.

Part 3: The Ears (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–10: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — 8 rounds even
Round 11: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (9 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten the ear and sew to the top of the head, spaced a few stitches apart and slightly toward the back.

Optional: Before sewing, crochet the inner ear in pink. Simply single crochet a smaller oval using pink yarn and sew it onto the front of each ear before attaching them to the head.

Part 4: The Arms (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–7: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 8: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (9 sts)

Stuff the arms lightly — they should be a little floppy rather than firm.

Round 9: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the arms to the sides of the body at approximately round 14–15 of the body.

Part 5: The Legs (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4–6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Round 7: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rounds 8–12: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Stuff the legs firmly.

Round 13: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail. Sew the legs to the bottom of the body.

Part 6: The Tail

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–4: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 5: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail. Stuff lightly and sew to the back of the body at the center.

Part 7: The Pink Hoodie

The hoodie is crocheted flat and then seamed, or worked in the round with armhole openings. This version is worked flat for simplicity.

Hoodie Body:

Using pink yarn, chain 30.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (29 sts) Ch 1, turn.
Rows 2–10: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

At the end of row 10, divide for the armholes. Work across 7 sts, chain 3 for the armhole opening, skip 3 sts, sc across the center 9 sts, chain 3, skip 3 sts, sc across remaining 7 sts.

Row 11: Sc across, working 3 sc into each chain-3 space for armholes. (29 sts) Ch 1, turn.
Rows 12–15: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Fasten off. Fold the rectangle in half and seam the sides together using a slip stitch seam or whip stitch, leaving the armholes open. You now have a simple sleeveless hoodie body.

Hoodie Hood:

With pink yarn, pick up stitches around the neck opening. Work in the round:

Round 1: Sc evenly around the neck edge. (approximately 20–24 sts, depending on your tension)
Rounds 2–6: Sc in each st around.
Round 7: Sc in BLO of each st around. (this creates a folded edge for the hood brim)
Rounds 8–14: Sc in each st around.

Fold the hood in half and use a slip stitch or whip stitch to seam the top of the hood closed. This creates the rounded hoodie look.

Hoodie Pocket (Optional):

With pink yarn, chain 8.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and across. (7 sts) Ch 1, turn.
Rows 2–5: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn.

Fasten off and sew to the front center of the hoodie.

Hoodie Drawstring:

Cut two lengths of pink yarn, each about 20cm long. Thread them through the front bottom corners of the hood and tie small knots at each end to prevent fraying. This creates a cute drawstring detail.

Slip the hoodie onto the bunny before attaching the head, or work it over the body from the bottom if the opening is large enough.

Assembly Tips

Sewing the pieces together is half the battle in amigurumi, and it’s where a lot of beginners feel a little stuck. Here are some tips to make assembly go smoothly.

Use straight pins to position your pieces before sewing. This lets you step back, look at the placement, and adjust before committing to anything. Ears that are too far forward or arms that sit too low can throw off the whole look of your bunny.

When sewing the head to the body, work around the perimeter of the base of the head and the top of the body simultaneously, weaving your needle back and forth through both pieces. Pull gently but firmly to bring the pieces together without puckering.

For arms and legs, sewing through both layers of the piece and into the body creates a more secure join than sewing around the perimeter alone.

Don’t rush the sewing process. This step takes patience but it’s what turns a collection of crocheted balls into an actual character.

Adding the Face

The face brings your bunny to life, so take your time here. If you’re using safety eyes, they should already be in place. You’ll want to embroider a small nose just below and between the eyes. A simple Y-shape in pink thread or yarn works perfectly for a bunny nose. Some makers also add a tiny stitch mouth — a small curved line below the nose adds a sweet expression.

If you want to give your bunny more character, you can add a little blush to the cheeks using a pink makeup brush and craft chalk or even a pink colored pencil rubbed lightly onto the yarn surface. This gives a soft, rosy glow that photographs beautifully.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own amigurumi is that you can customize it however you like. Here are some ideas to make your pink hoodie bunny uniquely yours.

Change the hoodie color. While pink is the classic choice for this design, imagine a lavender hoodie, a mint green one, or even a rainbow striped version. Any worsted or DK yarn in a contrasting color will work beautifully against a white or cream bunny body.

Add a name or initial. If this is a gift, embroider a small letter on the front of the hoodie pocket in a contrasting color.

Make a set. Once you’ve mastered this pattern, try making a mama bunny and a baby bunny using different-sized hooks and yarn weights.

Try different textures. Using a fluffy or boucle yarn for the bunny body creates an incredibly soft, realistic fur effect. Just know that fluffy yarn is harder to work with and can make counting stitches difficult for beginners.

Give your bunny accessories. A tiny crocheted bow, a little basket, or a small crocheted carrot are all adorable additions that make this pattern even more special.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does this pattern take to complete?
Most beginners finish this bunny over two or three casual crafting sessions, totaling somewhere between 6 and 10 hours depending on experience. Experienced amigurumi makers may finish in 3 to 4 hours.

Can I sell items made from this pattern?
This is a free pattern for personal use. If you’d like to sell finished items made from this pattern, please credit the pattern source. Always check individual pattern licensing if you’re unsure.

What if my tension is too loose?
Go down a hook size and try again with a swatch. Amigurumi really benefits from tight, even tension. If you can see your stuffing through the stitches, your tension is too loose.

My bunny looks different from the photos. What went wrong?
Amigurumi often looks a little different depending on yarn weight, hook size, and individual tension. Don’t worry — small differences are part of the handmade charm. If your bunny is too big or too small, adjust your hook