Free Crochet Pattern: Toy Bunny — Your Complete Step-by-Step Guide
There is something undeniably special about a handmade toy. Whether you are crafting a gift for a newborn, a toddler, or simply feeding your love of amigurumi, a crocheted bunny hits every mark. It is soft, it is sweet, and it carries that irreplaceable quality that only comes from something made with your own two hands. This free crochet pattern will walk you through creating an adorable toy bunny from start to finish — no experience beyond basic crochet stitches required.
If you have been searching for the perfect free crochet toy bunny pattern, you have found it. This guide covers everything: materials, abbreviations, gauge, pattern notes, and a complete row-by-row breakdown for the body, head, ears, arms, and legs. Pour yourself a cup of tea, grab your favorite hook, and let’s get started.
Why Crochet a Toy Bunny?
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth talking about why a bunny is such a beloved choice among crochet makers. Bunnies are universally adored — they work as Easter gifts, baby shower presents, nursery decorations, or comfort toys for children of all ages. They are also an ideal project for anyone who has mastered basic amigurumi and wants something a little more structured and rewarding than a simple ball or bear.
This pattern produces a bunny that stands roughly 10 to 12 inches tall (depending on your yarn weight and tension), making it a satisfying size — not so small that the details get fiddly, and not so large that it takes weeks to finish. Most makers complete this project in a single weekend.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials sorted before you begin will make the whole process smoother. Here is what you need for this free crochet toy bunny pattern:
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in your chosen color. You will need approximately 200 grams for the main body color. A small amount of a contrasting color for the inner ears and tummy is optional but adds a lovely touch. Soft, plush yarn works beautifully for toys — Lion Brand Pound of Love, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), or Bernat Baby Blanket Yarn are all excellent choices.
Hook: 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook, depending on your tension. The goal is a fabric tight enough that the stuffing does not show through.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill, plenty of it. Do not skimp — a well-stuffed bunny holds its shape beautifully and feels wonderful to cuddle.
Safety eyes: 12mm black or colored safety eyes, two of them. If you are making this bunny for a child under three, please embroider the eyes with black yarn instead of using safety eyes, as small parts are a choking hazard.
Yarn needle: For sewing parts together and weaving in ends.
Stitch markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of each round.
Scissors
Optional: Pink or blush embroidery floss or yarn for the nose and cheeks.
Gauge
Gauge matters more in amigurumi than many beginners realize, because it directly affects the density of your fabric. If your fabric is too loose, the stuffing will peek through and the bunny will not hold its shape.
Using worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, aim for approximately 5 stitches and 5 rows per inch in single crochet worked in the round. If your swatch is larger than this, go down a hook size. If it is tighter, go up half a size.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next 2 stitches, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops)
BLO — Back loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
rep — Repeat
Pattern Notes
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Do not join at the end of each round — simply continue into the next round, using a stitch marker to keep track of where each round begins.
The bunny is made up of separate pieces that are sewn together at the end: head, body, two ears, two arms, and two legs. The tail is a small pom-pom or a crocheted bobble added at the end.
When sewing pieces together, use the yarn tail left at the end of each piece and a yarn needle with a blunt tip. Mattress stitch gives the neatest result for joining flat pieces like ears, while a simple whipstitch works well for attaching rounded pieces like the head and limbs.
The Pattern
Head
The head is worked from the top down and shaped into a round sphere with a slightly flattened front where the face will go.
Start with your main color yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc 6, inc] 6 times. (48 sts)
Rnd 9–15: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — 7 rounds even
Rnd 16: [Sc 6, dec] 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 17: [Sc 5, dec] 6 times. (36 sts)
At this point, attach the safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 10 to 12 stitches apart. If you are embroidering the eyes, you will do this after the head is fully closed.
Rnd 18: [Sc 4, dec] 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 19: [Sc 3, dec] 6 times. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point. Continue adding stuffing as you close the remaining rounds.
Rnd 20: [Sc 2, dec] 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 21: [Sc 1, dec] 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 22: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Use the yarn needle to close the remaining hole by threading the tail through the front loops of each remaining stitch and pulling tight. Weave in the end on the inside.
Body
The body is slightly larger and more oval in shape than the head.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc 6, inc] 6 times. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: [Sc 7, inc] 6 times. (54 sts)
Rnd 10–18: Sc in each st around. (54 sts) — 9 rounds even
Rnd 19: [Sc 7, dec] 6 times. (48 sts)
Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (48 sts)
Rnd 21: [Sc 6, dec] 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (42 sts)
Rnd 23: [Sc 5, dec] 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 24: [Sc 4, dec] 6 times. (30 sts)
Begin stuffing the body now. Pack it firmly for a bunny that will sit upright well.
Rnd 25: [Sc 3, dec] 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 26: [Sc 2, dec] 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 27: [Sc 1, dec] 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 28: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close as you did for the head. Leave a long tail for assembly.
Ears (Make 2 in Main Color and 2 in Contrast Color)
Each ear is made of two pieces — one in the main body color and one in a lighter or contrasting color for the inner ear — sewn together before attaching to the head. If you prefer a single-color ear, simply make two pieces in your main color.
Outer Ear (Main Color):
Rnd 1: MR, 4 sc into the ring. (4 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (8 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] 4 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 4–16: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — 13 rounds even
Do not stuff the ears. Flatten the opening and slip stitch across to close. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Inner Ear (Contrast Color):
Work exactly as the outer ear through Round 12. Do not add the additional even rounds — the inner piece should be slightly shorter so it sits nicely inside when sewn together.
Flatten and slip stitch closed. Sew the inner ear piece to the front of the outer ear piece using whipstitch around the edges, tucking the contrast color neatly inside the border of the main color.
Arms (Make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] 6 times. (18 sts) — this forms the paw
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 1, dec] 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 6–14: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — 9 rounds even
Lightly stuff the lower portion of the arm (the paw end). Leave the top portion unstuffed so the arm lies flat when attached. Flatten and slip stitch closed. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Legs (Make 2)
The legs are worked from the foot upward.
Rnd 1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, working back along the other side of the chain: sc 3, inc in last st. (14 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc, sc 3, inc 3 times, sc 3, inc 2 times. (20 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, sc 3, [sc 1, inc] 3 times, sc 3, [sc 1, inc] 2 times. (26 sts)
Rnd 4: Working in BLO: sc in each st around. (26 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (26 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 7, dec 6 times, sc 7. (20 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 7, dec 3 times, sc 7. (17 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc 6, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 6. (15 sts)
Stuff the foot firmly at this point.
Rnd 9–18: Sc in each st around. (15 sts) — 10 rounds even
Lightly stuff the leg. Flatten and slip stitch closed. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Tail
For a classic fluffy bunny tail, make a small pom-pom by wrapping white yarn around two fingers approximately 40 times. Tie tightly in the center, cut the loops, and trim into a round shape. Attach securely to the back of the body.
Alternatively, you can crochet a small bobble:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 1, dec] 6 times. (12 sts)
Stuff lightly.
Rnd 7: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Close and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Assembly
This is the step that brings your bunny to life, and it is worth taking your time here. Pin all pieces in place before sewing to make sure you are happy with the positioning.
Begin by sewing the head to the body. The head should sit centered on the top of the body, with the face pointing forward. Use the long yarn tail from the body and whipstitch all the way around, adding a bit more stuffing through the opening as you go before closing it completely.
Next, position the ears. Place them on the top of the head, slightly angled outward, between rounds 2 and 5. Pin them first, then sew securely using the ear yarn tails.
Attach the arms to either side of the body, at approximately round 5 from the top of the body. The paw should point slightly forward. Sew through the flattened top of each arm and into the body, going through the stitches several times for a secure join.
Sew the legs to the bottom of the body, facing forward, positioned slightly toward the outside so the bunny sits naturally. Again, go through the stitches multiple times so they can withstand enthusiastic play.
Finally, attach the tail to the center back of the body, between rounds 8 and 12 from the bottom.
Adding the Face
The face is where your bunny truly comes to life. If you have not already installed the safety eyes, do so now — or embroider them with black yarn using a satin stitch.
For the nose, use pink embroidery floss or a small length of pink yarn. Create a small triangle shape centered just below and between the eyes, at approximately round 12 from the top of the head.
For the mouth, create a small curved smile by anchoring a length of yarn at the bottom of the nose and stitching a gentle V-shape downward.
Optional blush cheeks can be added using a dry brush of chalk pastel or blush makeup powder in a soft pink shade, applied gently with a small brush.
Customizing Your Bunny
One of the greatest joys of making your own toys is how completely you can personalize them. Here are some ideas to make your bunny uniquely yours:
You can dress your bunny
