Plush Frog Free Crochet Pattern: Your Complete Guide to a Squishy, Adorable Amigurumi Frog
If you’ve been searching for the perfect plush frog crochet pattern, your search ends here. This free pattern walks you through every stitch, every round, and every assembly step to create a wonderfully squishy, huggable frog that’s equal parts charming and satisfying to make. Whether you’re a confident beginner or an experienced amigurumi crafter looking for your next project, this plush frog is designed to be accessible, fun, and endlessly customizable.
Keep reading for the full free crochet pattern, complete with materials, abbreviations, tips, and step-by-step instructions for every piece of this delightful little creature.
Why You’ll Love This Plush Frog Crochet Pattern
Frogs have become one of the most beloved amigurumi subjects in the crochet community, and it’s easy to see why. Their round bodies, wide eyes, and cheerful expressions make them instantly loveable. This particular pattern is designed with “plush” as the guiding word — meaning this frog is a little bigger, a little squishier, and a little more huggable than a traditional small amigurumi.
Here are a few reasons this pattern stands out:
It’s completely free. No email signup, no Ravelry paywall — just a full, detailed pattern right here on this page.
It’s beginner-friendly. If you know how to make a magic ring, single crochet, increase, and decrease, you have everything you need to complete this project.
It uses widely available materials. No specialty yarn required. Worsted weight yarn and a standard hook are all you need.
It’s a wonderful gift. Plush frogs make incredible gifts for babies, toddlers, kids, and honestly any adult who appreciates a quality handmade toy.
It’s fully customizable. Want a blue frog? A pastel rainbow frog? A tiny pocket frog? The structure of this pattern makes it easy to adapt colors, sizes, and embellishments.
Materials You’ll Need
Before diving into the pattern, gather your supplies. Having everything on hand before you start makes the process much smoother.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (weight 4) in your choice of frog colors. You’ll need approximately 200–250 yards of your main color (traditionally green, but feel free to get creative), plus small amounts of a lighter color for the belly and accents. White or cream for the eyes is also helpful, though safety eyes can replace that entirely.
Hook: US Size G/6 (4.0 mm) or H/8 (5.0 mm). The slightly smaller hook helps create a tighter fabric so the stuffing doesn’t peek through.
Safety Eyes: Two 15mm safety eyes give this frog a classic, expressive look. If you’re making this for a child under three, embroider the eyes instead for safety.
Polyfill Stuffing: You’ll want enough to fill the body firmly but not rigidly — you want that plush, squishy quality. Approximately one to two bags of standard polyfill stuffing should be plenty.
Yarn Needle: For weaving in ends and sewing pieces together.
Stitch Markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of rounds.
Scissors: For cutting yarn.
Optional: Wire armature or pipe cleaners if you want poseable limbs (not recommended for children’s toys).
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout. Here’s a quick reference guide:
MR — Magic Ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip Stitch
sc — Single Crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook in front loop of first stitch, then front loop of next stitch, yarn over and pull through both, yarn over and pull through remaining loops)
BLO — Back Loop Only
FLO — Front Loop Only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
rep — Repeat
[x] — Repeat the instructions in brackets the number of times indicated
All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of each round unless instructed.
Pattern Notes
The finished plush frog measures approximately 8–10 inches tall when seated, depending on your tension and hook size. Gauge is not critical for this project since it’s a toy, but tighter tension is preferred to keep the stuffing from showing.
When using safety eyes, always attach them before closing up a piece, since you won’t be able to reach inside once it’s stuffed and sewn shut.
The frog is worked in pieces and then assembled. The order of assembly is: body and head (worked together), eyes (worked separately and attached), front legs, back legs, and optional accessories.
The Free Pattern: Plush Frog
Part One: Body and Head
The head and body of this frog are worked as one continuous piece, starting from the bottom and working upward. This creates a seamless look and saves you one major seaming step.
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [sc 3, inc] x6 (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [sc 5, inc] x6 (42 sts)
Rnd 8: [sc 6, inc] x6 (48 sts)
Rnds 9–16: sc around (48 sts) — 8 rounds even
Rnd 17: [sc 6, dec] x6 (42 sts)
Rnd 18: sc around (42 sts)
Rnd 19: [sc 5, dec] x6 (36 sts)
Rnd 20: sc around (36 sts)
This is a good point to begin stuffing the body. Continue adding stuffing as you close the piece.
Rnd 21: [sc 4, dec] x6 (30 sts)
Rnd 22: sc around (30 sts)
Now you transition into the neck and head.
Rnd 23: [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts)
Rnd 24: [sc 5, inc] x6 (42 sts)
Rnd 25: [sc 6, inc] x6 (48 sts)
Rnd 26: [sc 7, inc] x6 (54 sts)
Rnds 27–34: sc around (54 sts) — 8 rounds even
This is where you’ll place your safety eyes if using them. Attach the eyes between rounds 30 and 31, approximately 12–14 stitches apart for that wide, expressive frog look.
Rnd 35: [sc 7, dec] x6 (48 sts)
Rnd 36: [sc 6, dec] x6 (42 sts)
Rnd 37: [sc 5, dec] x6 (36 sts)
Rnd 38: [sc 4, dec] x6 (30 sts)
Stuff the head firmly. Make sure to push stuffing up into the top of the head so it holds its round shape.
Rnd 39: [sc 3, dec] x6 (24 sts)
Rnd 40: [sc 2, dec] x6 (18 sts)
Rnd 41: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)
Rnd 42: [dec] x6 (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Close the opening with your yarn needle by weaving through the front loops of the remaining six stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.
Part Two: Eye Bumps (Make 2)
One of the most charming features of a plush frog is the raised, bulging eye bumps on top of the head. These little domes give the frog that instantly recognizable silhouette.
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)
Rnds 5–7: sc around (24 sts) — 3 rounds even
Rnd 8: [sc 2, dec] x6 (18 sts)
If using safety eyes with eye bumps, attach the safety eye to the center front of the dome before continuing. If you’re embroidering the eyes, you’ll do that at the end.
Stuff the eye bump lightly — just enough to give it shape without making it hard.
Rnd 9: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)
Rnd 10: [dec] x6 (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The eye bumps are sewn onto the top of the head, roughly 8–10 stitches apart, before the head is fully closed if possible, or on the finished head once assembled.
Part Three: Front Legs (Make 2)
The front legs of this plush frog are short and slightly rounded at the bottom, giving the frog that cute “sitting” pose.
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Rnds 4–6: sc around (18 sts)
Rnd 7: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)
Rnds 8–15: sc around (12 sts) — 8 rounds even
Stuff the leg moderately — not too firm, as this keeps them poseable and cute.
Rnd 16: [dec] x6 (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not close the top of the leg — flatten it and sew it closed as a flat edge, which makes it easier to attach to the body.
Part Four: Back Legs (Make 2)
The back legs are larger and more angular than the front legs, giving the frog a natural crouching posture.
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)
Rnds 5–8: sc around (24 sts)
Rnd 9: [sc 2, dec] x6 (18 sts)
Rnds 10–14: sc around (18 sts)
Stuff the lower portion of the back leg well.
Rnd 15: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)
Rnds 16–20: sc around (12 sts)
Lightly stuff the upper portion of the back leg.
Rnd 21: [dec] x6 (6 sts)
Fasten off and leave a long tail. Flatten and sew the top closed as with the front legs.
Part Five: Belly Patch (Optional but Recommended)
A light-colored belly patch gives your frog a more realistic, polished look and is a lovely detail that elevates the finished toy.
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 (6 sts)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [sc 3, inc] x6 (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts)
Sl st to join, fasten off, and leave a long tail. This flat oval is sewn onto the front of the body with your yarn needle, using the tail end and matching thread to keep it neat and secure.
Assembly Instructions
Assembly is often the part crafters find most intimidating, but with a few simple steps it becomes intuitive.
Start by positioning the eye bumps on top of the head. Place them toward the front-top of the head, slightly off-center, so the frog has that wide-eyed, alert expression. Pin them in place with sewing pins if needed, then sew them down securely using the long tails and a yarn needle. Weave the ends inside the head.
If you’re embroidering a smile, now is a great time. Use a dark green or black yarn and a simple backstitch to create a wide, slightly curved mouth across the lower front of the head. Keep it subtle — a small smile goes a long way on a round frog face.
Next, sew the belly patch to the center front of the body, about a third of the way up from the bottom. Take your time with this step; neat, even stitches around the perimeter of the patch make a big visual difference.
Position the front legs on either side of the body, roughly at the widest point of the body’s middle section. The flattened tops of the legs should sit flush against the body. Sew them securely all the way around the flat top edge.
For the back legs, position them at the very base of the body on either side, angled slightly outward and downward so the frog appears to be crouching or sitting. Sew them firmly in place.
Once all pieces are attached, go back and check each join. Give the frog a gentle squeeze and tug at the limbs — everything should feel solid and secure. If anything feels loose, reinforce it with a few extra stitches before weaving in the remaining ends.
Tips for Getting the Best Results
Use a hook size slightly smaller than what your yarn label recommends. This creates a tighter fabric that hides stuffing and holds its shape better over time, which is especially important for toys that will be handled frequently.
The invisible decrease is your best friend in amigurumi. It creates a much smoother, less lumpy surface than a standard decrease and makes a noticeable difference in the finished look of the piece.
Stuff as you go, especially in the body. Trying to stuff a nearly closed piece leads to uneven distribution and lumpy results.
Block or steam your finished frog lightly if the fabric looks uneven. A quick pass with a steam iron held a few inches above the surface (never directly on acrylic yarn) can smooth out any inconsistencies.
Take photos as you assemble. If you ever want to make another frog — and you will — having reference photos of your own process is invaluable.
Customization Ideas
One of the most joyful parts of a free crochet pattern is how much creative freedom it gives you. Here are some ways to make your plush frog truly one of a kind.
Try a variegated yarn for the body to create a naturally mottled frog look. Tonal greens, earthy browns, and even galaxy-dyed yarns all look stunning.
Add a little hat by crocheting a simple circle and adding a brim — instant frog wizard or frog cowboy.
Give your frog a tiny lily pad to sit on by crocheting a large flat circle in green or yellow with textured leaf veins embroidered in a contrasting color.
Make a frog family by adjusting your hook and yarn weight. A bulky yarn and a larger hook creates a big mama frog, while fingering weight yarn and a smaller hook creates precious little froglets.
Swap out the safety eyes for embroidered closed eyes to
