Free Crochet Pattern for Adorable Amigurumi Owl with Open Wings
If you have ever wanted to crochet a tiny owl that looks like it just glided in from an enchanted forest, this is the pattern for you. This free amigurumi owl crochet pattern walks you through every stitch of creating a round, wide-eyed owl complete with open wings that spread out on either side of its body. Whether you are a beginner who has finished a few basic amigurumi projects or an experienced crafter looking for a charming new addition to your collection, this pattern is written to be clear, approachable, and fun from start to finish.
Amigurumi owls are consistently one of the most popular crocheted animals, and it is easy to understand why. Their naturally round bodies translate perfectly into the sphere-based construction of amigurumi. Their large eyes make them expressive and instantly lovable. And the addition of open wings gives this particular pattern a dramatic, almost majestic quality that makes it stand apart from the typical sitting owl with folded wings. When you are finished, you will have an owl that measures approximately five to six inches tall with a wingspan of about eight inches — a perfect size for a nursery decoration, a gift for a bird lover, or a show-stopping piece in your next craft fair display.
Let us get into everything you need to know.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin crocheting, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you start makes the process much smoother, especially since this pattern involves working several separate pieces that get assembled at the end.
For yarn, you will need a main color for the body and head, a contrasting color for the belly and face details, a darker shade for the wings, and a small amount of yellow or orange for the beak. Worsted weight yarn (size 4) works beautifully for this pattern and gives the finished owl a satisfying weight and structure. Brands like Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, Red Heart Super Saver, or Paintbox Simply DK are all excellent choices and are widely available.
You will also need a 3.5mm crochet hook, which gives you a tighter stitch tension that prevents the stuffing from showing through the fabric. A 4.0mm hook works too if you prefer a slightly looser gauge, though you may want to use a bit more stuffing to compensate. Other supplies include a yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends, polyester fiberfill stuffing, two safety eyes in 12mm or 15mm size, stitch markers, and scissors.
Optional but helpful: a small piece of craft wire if you want the wings to hold a particular pose, and felting needle or fabric glue if you prefer to add decorative texture details.
Gauge and Finished Size
Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in single crochet using worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook.
Finished size: approximately 5.5 inches tall (body plus head) with wings spanning approximately 8 inches from tip to tip.
Gauge matters more with amigurumi than with many other crochet projects because the tightness of your stitches determines how firm and polished the finished piece looks. If your stitches are too loose, the stuffing peeks through and the shape becomes floppy. Do a quick swatch before you begin and adjust your hook size if needed.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.
MR — magic ring
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook into front loops of next two stitches, pull up two loops, yarn over and pull through all three loops)
st — stitch
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
rnd — round
Pattern Notes
All pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
The wings are worked flat and then sewn onto the body. If you want poseable wings, cut two pieces of wire slightly shorter than the finished wing measurement, bend the ends over to avoid sharp edges, and sandwich the wire inside the wing before sewing it closed.
When attaching safety eyes, insert them before closing the head completely. Once safety eyes are in place, they cannot be removed, so take your time positioning them.
Part One: The Body
Start with your main color yarn.
Rnd 1: Start with a magic ring, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] rep around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc 6, inc] rep around. (48 sts)
Rnds 9–18: Sc in each st around for 10 rounds. (48 sts)
Now begin the decrease section.
Rnd 19: [Sc 6, dec] rep around. (42 sts)
Rnd 20: [Sc 5, dec] rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 21: [Sc 4, dec] rep around. (30 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly at this point. Continue stuffing as you close the body.
Rnd 22: [Sc 3, dec] rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 23: [Sc 2, dec] rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 24: [Sc 1, dec] rep around. (12 sts)
Rnd 25: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the yarn needle to close the remaining 6 stitches by running the tail through the front loops, pulling tight, and weaving in the end.
Part Two: The Head
The head is worked the same way as the body but in a slightly smaller size. Use your main color yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] rep around. (42 sts)
Rnds 8–14: Sc in each st around for 7 rounds. (42 sts)
Before you begin the decrease rounds for the head, this is the time to position and attach your safety eyes. Place them on the front of the head, approximately between rounds 9 and 10, spaced about 8 stitches apart. The exact position is a matter of personal preference, but centering them on the slightly lower half of the head tends to give the owl a rounder, more expressive face. Attach the washers firmly on the inside.
Rnd 15: [Sc 5, dec] rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 16: [Sc 4, dec] rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 17: [Sc 3, dec] rep around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point.
Rnd 18: [Sc 2, dec] rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 19: [Sc 1, dec] rep around. (12 sts)
Rnd 20: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close as with the body. Set the head aside.
Part Three: The Belly Patch
This oval belly piece is worked in your contrasting color and gives the owl that classic layered look.
Ch 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Working back along the other side of the chain: sc 4, 2 sc in last st. (14 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc twice. (20 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc, sc 4, [sc 1, inc] three times, sc 4, [sc 1, inc] twice. (26 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc, sc 4, [sc 2, inc] three times, sc 4, [sc 2, inc] twice. (32 sts)
Sl st in next st. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Part Four: The Eye Patches (Make Two)
These little circles sit around the safety eyes and give the owl its distinctive wide-eyed look. Work in your contrasting color.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] rep around. (18 sts)
Sl st in next st. Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Part Five: The Beak
Work in yellow or orange yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 4 sc into ring. (4 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (8 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)
Sl st in next st. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff with a tiny pinch of fiberfill or leave unstuffed for a flatter look.
Part Six: The Ears (Make Two)
These small triangular tufts sit on top of the head and complete that classic owl silhouette.
Ch 2.
Row 1: 2 sc in second ch from hook. (2 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Inc in each st. (4 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (4 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc 2, inc. (6 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (6 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc 2, dec. (4 sts)
Do not turn. Work sc evenly along the side edge of the ear for a finished look. Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Part Seven: The Wings (Make Two)
This is the most exciting part of the pattern. The open wings are worked flat and shaped to look like spread feathers. Use your darker wing color.
Ch 16.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 15. (15 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc 12, 2 sc in last st. (17 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc 14, 2 sc in last st. (19 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc 16, 2 sc in last st. (21 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (21 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc 17, dec. (19 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc 15, dec. (17 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc 15, dec. (16 sts)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc 12, dec. (14 sts)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc 10, dec. (12 sts)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (12 sts)
Now create the feather tip detail along the outer edge. Do not turn. Work a slip stitch border along the shaped edge, then add feather texture by working a series of picots (ch 3, sl st in same st) at evenly spaced intervals along the outer wing edge — approximately every 4 stitches. This creates a lovely ruffled feather effect.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Make the second wing as a mirror image by simply reversing which end you work the decrease section.
Part Eight: The Feet (Make Two)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnds 3–5: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Sl st in next st. Stuff lightly. Flatten the opening and sc across to close (6 sts). Fasten off leaving a long tail.
You can add toe texture by using your yarn needle to embroider three straight stitches across the front of each foot.
Assembly
Assembly is where your owl truly comes to life. Take your time with this step and pin everything in place before committing to sewing.
Begin by centering the belly patch on the front of the body and sewing it down securely with your yarn needle, using the long tail and a whip stitch around the entire oval. Make sure the seam is even and the patch lies flat.
Next, position the eye patches on the head, centering them around the safety eyes you already attached. Sew them down flat, then use a contrasting yarn to add a few small stitches or a chain ring around each safety eye for an extra detail if desired.
Attach the beak between and just below the eye patches. Sew it down with the long tail, pulling the stitches snugly so the beak puckers slightly outward.
Sew the ears onto the top of the head, positioning them symmetrically and angling them very slightly outward. Secure them at both the base and the tips to keep them standing upright.
Now sew the head to the body. Position the head slightly toward the front of the body so the owl has a nice forward-facing posture. Using a whip stitch or mattress stitch, sew all the way around, ensuring the join is firm and the head does not tilt to one side.
Attach the feet to the base of the body, centering them on either side of the bottom seam. Sew through several layers for a secure hold.
Finally, position the wings. Hold them against either side of the body and spread them out to find the most appealing angle. Many crafters like the wings to angle slightly upward and forward, as though the owl is mid-glide. Pin them in place and then sew along the straight inner edge of each wing, securing the wing all the way from the top of the body to the midpoint. Leave the outer portion of the wing free so it extends outward naturally.
Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas
Once your owl is assembled, weave in any remaining yarn ends. Use a yarn needle or a crochet hook to tuck them fully inside the body where they will never show.
This pattern is a wonderful canvas for customization. You can change the yarn colors to create a snowy white owl inspired by winter landscapes, a warm tawny owl in golden browns, or a completely fantastical owl in purples and teals. Adding a tiny graduation cap with a scrap of black yarn turns this owl into a perfect gift for a student. A small crocheted book tucked under one wing transforms it into a charming library mascot.
For a more textured look, try using a brushed or mohair yarn for the belly patch to mimic the soft down feathers of a real owl. You can also add embroidered details like small V-shaped markings across the belly using a contrasting yarn and a yarn needle.
If you are making this owl for a baby or small child, substitute embroidered eyes for the safety eyes, as safety eyes can be a choking hazard for children under three. Simply use
