Free Crochet Mabel Chicken Pattern: Your Complete Step-by-Step Guide

If you’ve been searching for the perfect crochet chicken pattern, you’ve just found your new favorite project. Meet Mabel — a charming, plump little hen with a personality bigger than her stitch count. This free crochet Mabel Chicken pattern is beginner-friendly, completely free, and results in an adorable stuffed animal that makes a wonderful gift, Easter basket addition, farmhouse decoration, or simply a cozy companion for a child you love. Whether you’re brand new to amigurumi or a seasoned crafter looking for a fun afternoon project, Mabel is here to brighten your hook hand.

In this post, you’ll find everything you need: materials, abbreviations, gauge information, and the full pattern written out row by row. Grab your favorite yarn and let’s get started.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Mabel the crochet chicken has become one of those projects that people make once and then immediately start making again for everyone they know. She’s the kind of project that moves quickly enough to feel satisfying but has just enough detail — the little comb, the beak, the wings — to feel like a real creative accomplishment when you’re done.

She’s also wonderfully versatile. Make her in classic white with a red comb for a traditional hen look, or go wild with variegated yarn for a funky, rainbow chicken that no one will expect. She works up beautifully in any worsted weight yarn, which means she’s an excellent stash buster. You can use up those half-skeins that have been sitting in your basket for months.

Beyond the fun of making her, Mabel is extremely giftable. She’s a hit at baby showers, Easter celebrations, birthday parties, and craft fairs. If you sell your crochet work, she’s the kind of small, quick-to-make item that photographs beautifully and draws people in.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you sit down with your coffee and your hooks, gather everything on this list. Having your supplies ready before you start will make the whole process smoother and more enjoyable.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in your main color for the body, a contrasting color for the comb and wattle, and a small amount of yellow or orange for the beak. You’ll need roughly 100 yards of your main color and much smaller amounts of the accent colors — likely less than 10 yards each.

Hook: Size 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook. The smaller hook helps create a tighter fabric that won’t let polyfill stuffing peek through.

Eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm safety eyes. Always use caution with safety eyes around children under three, and for very young children, consider embroidering the eyes with black yarn instead.

Stuffing: Polyfill fiberfill stuffing. You’ll need a small to moderate amount depending on how firmly you like your amigurumi stuffed.

Notions: Yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends, stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds, and scissors.

Optional: Wire armature if you want Mabel to stand on her own without tipping, though most makers find she stands well without it once firmly stuffed.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern is written in US crochet terms. If you’re used to UK terminology, please note that what this pattern calls a single crochet, UK crafters know as a double crochet.

MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
inc — increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook into front loops only of next two stitches, yarn over, pull through both, yarn over, pull through remaining loops)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)
rnd — round
rep — repeat
( ) — work instructions inside parentheses into the same stitch
[ ] x — repeat the instructions inside brackets the number of times indicated

Gauge

For this pattern, gauge is approximate rather than strict, since slight size variations won’t affect the finished piece structurally. A general target is about 18 stitches and 20 rows equaling 4 inches in single crochet with a 4.0mm hook and worsted weight yarn. Your Mabel may end up slightly larger or smaller than the sample, which is perfectly fine. The finished chicken stands approximately 5 to 6 inches tall and is about 4 inches wide at her plumpest point.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless the pattern specifically tells you to. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round and move it up as you go.

Mabel is made in several pieces that are assembled at the end: the body (which includes the head), two wings, the comb, the wattle, and the beak. Assembly is straightforward and the pattern walks you through it.

Read through the entire pattern once before you begin so you have a feel for how all the pieces connect.

The Full Free Crochet Mabel Chicken Pattern

Part One: The Body and Head

Mabel’s body and head are worked as one continuous piece from the bottom up, which gives her that lovely rounded, plump silhouette.

In your main color:

Rnd 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] x6. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] x6. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] x6. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] x6. (36 sts)

Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] x6. (42 sts)

Rnds 8–14: Sc in each st around. (42 sts) — 7 rounds even.

Rnd 15: [Sc 5, dec] x6. (36 sts)

Rnd 16: [Sc 4, dec] x6. (30 sts)

Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (30 sts)

Rnd 18: [Sc 3, dec] x6. (24 sts)

At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, spaced about 8 stitches apart. This is also a good moment to begin stuffing the body firmly. Continue adding stuffing as you close the piece.

Rnd 19: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)

Rnd 20: [Sc 4, inc] x4 around, then sc in remaining sts until end of round. You are now beginning to shape the neck transition. (28 sts)

Rnd 21: [Sc 3, dec] x4, sc to end of round. (24 sts)

Rnd 22: [Sc 2, dec] x6. (18 sts)

Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Rnd 24: [Sc 2, inc] x6. (24 sts) — This is where the head begins to expand.

Rnd 25: [Sc 3, inc] x6. (30 sts)

Rnd 26: [Sc 4, inc] x6. (36 sts)

Rnds 27–31: Sc in each st around. (36 sts) — 5 rounds even.

Rnd 32: [Sc 4, dec] x6. (30 sts)

Rnd 33: [Sc 3, dec] x6. (24 sts)

Rnd 34: [Sc 2, dec] x6. (18 sts)

Stuff the head firmly now. Make sure the neck area has enough stuffing to hold the head upright.

Rnd 35: [Sc 1, dec] x6. (12 sts)

Rnd 36: Dec x6. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining 6 stitches by weaving through the front loops and pulling snug. Fasten off and weave in the end.

Part Two: The Wings (Make Two)

The wings are small, flat-ish ovals that get sewn onto the sides of the body.

In your main color:

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] x6. (18 sts)

Rnds 4–6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts) — 3 rounds even.

Rnd 7: [Sc 1, dec] x6. (12 sts)

Do not stuff the wings. Flatten slightly and sl st across the opening to close, or simply leave the last round open and sew the wing closed while attaching it to the body. Either method works. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Make a second wing the same way.

Part Three: The Comb

The comb sits on top of Mabel’s head and gives her that instantly recognizable chicken silhouette. Work it in red or bright pink yarn.

In your comb color:

Ch 8.

Row 1: Starting in the second ch from hook: sc 1, hdc 1, (dc 2, hdc 1) in the next st, sl st 1, (hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1) in the next st, sl st 1, (hdc 1, dc 2) in the next st, sc 1, sl st 1.

You should now have three small bumps — these are the peaks of the comb. If your comb looks a little floppy at this stage, don’t worry. It firms up once sewn to the head.

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Part Four: The Wattle

The wattle is the small red piece that hangs below Mabel’s beak. It’s tiny but makes a big difference in making her look like a real hen.

In your comb color (same as the comb):

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 4: [Sc 1, dec] x4. (8 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Leave this piece unstuffed. It will be flat and small — exactly what you want. Pinch it slightly to give it a teardrop shape before sewing it on.

Part Five: The Beak

The beak is a small triangle worked flat.

In yellow or orange yarn:

Ch 4.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc across. Turn. (3 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, dec, sc 1. Turn. (2 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, dec. (1 st)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Fold the piece slightly to give it a 3D triangular shape before sewing.

Part Six: The Tail Feathers

Mabel’s tail feathers add a lovely finishing touch and are optional but highly recommended.

In your main color (or a contrasting color for flair):

Make three small pointed shapes by working a magic ring with 6 sc, then working 2 rounds of sc even, then working [sc, dec] around to close. Alternatively, you can make simple elongated pieces by chaining 6, then working sc across and decreasing at the tip. Make the feathers different lengths — one longer in the center, two shorter on the sides — for a natural look.

Sew these to the back of the body before you finish your assembly.

Assembly

Now comes the satisfying part: putting Mabel together.

Start with the comb. Position it along the top of the head, centered from front to back, sitting right on the seam at the very top. Use your yarn needle and the long tail to sew it down securely, catching a few stitches on each side of each peak to anchor the bumps and keep them upright.

Next, attach the beak. Position it on the front of the head, centered, roughly between rounds 28 and 30 of the head. Sew it down neatly, tucking the edges in slightly as you go to give it that cute, slightly 3D pointed shape.

Sew the wattle directly below the beak, letting it hang down naturally. Use a few secure stitches to anchor the top of the wattle and let the rounded bottom hang freely.

For the wings, hold one wing up against the side of the body with the closed edge facing forward and the wider part of the oval toward the top. Mabel’s wings sit roughly at rounds 10 through 16 of the body. Sew around the top edge, leaving the bottom of the wing slightly free — this gives the wing a natural look, as if it’s resting against her body rather than stitched flat.

Repeat on the other side, making sure both wings are level.

Finally, sew on the tail feathers at the back of the body, fanning them out slightly. If you made three feathers, sew the longest one in the center and angle the shorter ones outward on each side.

Weave in all remaining yarn ends. Give Mabel a gentle squeeze to even out the stuffing, and she’s done.

Sizing and Customization Ideas

One of the best things about this pattern is how easy it is to customize. Here are a few ideas to make your Mabel uniquely yours.

If you use bulky weight yarn and a larger hook, Mabel grows into a big, huggable hen that’s wonderful as a nursery decoration or large stuffed animal. Scale her down with fingering weight yarn and a 2mm hook for a miniature version that’s adorable as a keychain or bag charm.

Experiment with color for fun variations. A black Mabel with a bright red comb makes a convincing Australorp. A speckled or marled yarn suggests a Rhode Island Red. Pastel colors turn her into a sweet Easter chicken. Variegated yarn creates a wild, funky bird that doesn’t exist in nature but absolutely should.

You can also add embroidered details — little wings drawn on with yarn, polka dots, or even a tiny flower tucked under her comb for a cottage-garden feel.

Tips for Success

When working in continuous rounds, the beginning of your round can drift over time. Using a stitch marker is essential — don’t try to track it by memory.

For the tightest, cleanest amigurumi fabric, keep your tension snug but not so tight that you struggle to insert your hook. If you can see the stuffing through your stitches, go down a hook size.

Stuff firmly but not so hard that the yarn stretches out of shape. The finished chicken should feel solid but not hard as a rock.

When sewing pieces together, take your time. Sloppy seams are usually the only thing that stands between a good amigurumi and a great one. Pin pieces in place with straight pins or locking stitch markers before sewing so you can check the placement and adjust before you commit.

Share Your Mabel

There’s nothing more fun than seeing the chickens other makers bring to life with this pattern. If you make a Mabel, please share her — tag your photos and leave a comment below so other crafters can see your version. It’s genuinely one of the best parts of the crochet community: watching the same pattern become ten completely different chickens, each one reflecting the maker who created her.

If you run into any trouble with the pattern or have questions about a particular step, drop a comment and the community will help you work through it. This pattern is meant to be enjoyed, and no