Free Crochet Amigurumi Pattern: How to Make an Adorable Stuffed Bear from Scratch
If you’ve ever fallen in love with those chubby, round-bodied stuffed animals that seem to pop up everywhere in handmade craft spaces, you’ve already met amigurumi. This Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed figures has captured the hearts of crafters around the world, and for good reason. There’s something deeply satisfying about turning a simple ball of yarn into a soft, squishy creature you can hold in the palm of your hand. Today I’m sharing a complete, free crochet amigurumi pattern for a classic stuffed bear — from the magic ring to the finishing knot — along with tips, tricks, and everything you need to know to make yours turn out beautifully.
Whether you’re brand new to amigurumi or you’ve made a few before and want a reliable go-to pattern, this one is designed to be beginner-friendly while still producing a polished, professional-looking result. Let’s get started.
What Is Amigurumi and Why Is It So Popular?
Amigurumi (pronounced ah-mee-goo-roo-mee) is a Japanese compound word combining “ami,” meaning knitted or crocheted, and “nuigurumi,” meaning stuffed doll. The style originated in Japan and gained worldwide popularity in the early 2000s, spreading through online communities, craft blogs, and eventually social media platforms where makers share their tiny creations with an enthusiastic global audience.
What makes amigurumi so appealing is the combination of accessibility and creativity. The core techniques are simple — mostly just single crochet, increases, and decreases — but the possibilities are genuinely endless. You can make bears, bunnies, cats, foxes, food items, fantasy creatures, holiday characters, and anything else your imagination conjures. The finished pieces make wonderful handmade gifts, nursery decorations, toys for children, and collector’s items for adults who appreciate fiber art.
The pattern I’m sharing today produces a bear that stands about 6 to 7 inches tall when complete, depending on your yarn weight and tension. It’s a classic style with a round body, chubby limbs, round ears, and an embroidered face that gives it that signature amigurumi charm.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you pick up your hook, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you start saves time and keeps your creative momentum going.
Yarn: You’ll need approximately 100 to 150 yards of worsted weight (size 4) yarn in your main color. I’m using a warm honey brown for this bear, but you can choose any color you like. Lighter colors can sometimes show the stuffing through the stitches, so if you’re using white or cream, opt for a tightly spun yarn. You’ll also need a small amount of a contrasting color for the muzzle if you’d like a two-toned look, and a very small amount of black or dark brown for the nose and any embroidered details.
Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook works well with worsted weight yarn. For amigurumi, it’s common to size down slightly from the yarn’s recommended hook size. This creates a tighter fabric with smaller gaps, which keeps your polyfill stuffing from showing through.
Polyfill stuffing: Any polyester fiberfill stuffing will do. Don’t overstuff to the point of stretching your stitches, and don’t understuff to the point of floppiness. You’re aiming for a firm but squeezable feel.
Safety eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes. These are plastic pieces with a post and washer backing that lock into place once inserted through your crocheted fabric. They’re called safety eyes because the washer mechanism makes them very difficult to pull out — however, if you’re making this bear for a very young child under age 3, I recommend embroidering the eyes instead to eliminate any choking hazard.
Yarn needle: A blunt-tipped tapestry or yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in your ends.
Stitch markers: Small locking stitch markers or even scrap yarn tied in a loop to mark the beginning of your rounds.
Scissors: For snipping yarn between pieces.
Key Abbreviations and Stitches Used
If you’re new to crochet patterns, abbreviations can look like alphabet soup at first. Here’s a quick reference for everything used in this pattern.
MR — magic ring (also called a magic circle or adjustable ring)
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook through the front loops of the next two stitches, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st — stitch
sts — stitches
rnd — round
( ) — work the stitches inside the parentheses the number of times indicated
All rounds in this pattern are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless the pattern specifically says to do so.
Pattern Instructions
Head
The head is worked from the top down, beginning with the magic ring.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc 6, inc repeat around. (48 sts)
Rnds 9–16: Sc in each st around for 8 rounds. (48 sts)
Rnd 17: Sc 6, dec repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 18: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)
Before continuing, this is the time to attach your safety eyes. Position them between rounds 12 and 13, approximately 10 to 12 stitches apart. The exact placement is a matter of personal style — placing them slightly wider apart gives a sweeter, more innocent expression, while placing them closer together creates a more focused look. Once you’re happy with the placement, push the posts through the fabric and snap the washers firmly on from the inside.
Rnd 19: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 20: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head now, and continue adding stuffing as you close the opening.
Rnd 21: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 22: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 23: Dec 6 times around. (6 sts)
Close the opening by weaving your yarn needle through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pulling tight. Fasten off and weave in the end inside the head.
Muzzle
The muzzle gives your bear that classic, sweet protruding snout.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the muzzle before attaching it to give it a slight three-dimensional puffiness. Sew it centered on the face, between rounds 14 and 17. Using black embroidery floss or a strand of dark yarn, embroider a small oval or teardrop shape for the nose at the top center of the muzzle, and optionally add a small vertical line and two gentle curves to create a little smile below it.
Ears (Make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. The ears are not stuffed. Fold each ear slightly in half to give it a natural curved shape and sew it to the top of the head, one on each side. Position them roughly over rounds 3 and 4 of the head, spaced several stitches in from the sides to keep them looking balanced.
Body
The body is worked from the bottom up.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnds 8–20: Sc in each st around for 13 rounds. (42 sts)
Rnd 21: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 22: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 23: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly.
Rnd 24: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 25: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Add any remaining stuffing and sew the body closed, then sew the head to the top of the body. The head should sit slightly toward the front to give your bear that charming slouchy posture.
Arms (Make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnds 7–18: Sc in each st around for 12 rounds. (12 sts)
Stuff the paw portion at the bottom of the arm lightly, but leave the upper arm unstuffed or only lightly stuffed so it remains flexible and floppy. Flatten the top of the arm and sew it closed through both layers. Attach each arm to the side of the body at roughly round 20 of the body, angling them slightly forward.
Legs (Make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, dec three times. (15 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 3, dec three times. (12 sts)
Rnds 8–16: Sc in each st around for 9 rounds. (12 sts)
Stuff the legs firmly. Flatten the top and sew closed. Attach the legs to the bottom of the body at the sides, pointing forward so your bear can sit upright in a natural position.
Tail (Optional)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Do not stuff the tail. Sew it to the back lower center of the body.
Assembling Your Amigurumi Bear
With all pieces complete, lay them out and take a moment to appreciate what you’ve made before sewing everything together. Assembly is often the step that feels the most satisfying, because the bear comes together quickly once all the pieces are crocheted.
Sew the muzzle to the face first, then attach the ears to the head. Next, attach the head to the body. Then sew on the arms and legs. Finally, if you made a tail, sew that to the back. Weave in all remaining ends thoroughly — running your needle through several stitches in different directions before trimming will help the ends stay secure and hidden inside the stuffed pieces.
Tips for Getting a Beautiful Result
Tension consistency matters more in amigurumi than in many other crochet projects because the fabric is so small and dense. If your tension is too loose, stuffing shows through; too tight and your hands cramp and your hook has difficulty moving. Most makers find a rhythm after a few rounds, so don’t worry if the first part of the head feels awkward.
The invisible decrease really does make a difference. Unlike a standard decrease, which creates a noticeable bump on the fabric, the invisible decrease produces a nearly seamless reduction in stitch count. Once you try it, you likely won’t go back.
Always stuff gradually. Pushing in a large amount of polyfill all at once creates uneven lumps. Adding small amounts of stuffing at a time as the opening narrows gives you much more control over the final shape.
Mark your rounds. This might seem tedious but it saves enormous frustration. Amigurumi rounds spiral continuously without a visible join, and it’s surprisingly easy to lose your place, especially during the repetitive middle rows of the body.
Customizing Your Bear
One of the real joys of having a solid base pattern like this is how easily you can personalize it. Change the yarn color to make a white polar bear or a charcoal gray bear. Add a small crocheted bow tie or hair bow sewn between the ears. Use a tiny piece of contrasting yarn to give your bear an inner ear detail. Make a miniature scarf by chaining 60 stitches and crocheting two rows of single crochet, then wrap it around the bear’s neck.
You can also adjust the size by changing your yarn weight. Using bulky yarn with a larger hook will give you a big, huggable bear, while fingering weight yarn and a 2mm hook will produce a tiny miniature you could perch on a shelf or hang as an ornament.
Caring for Your Finished Amigurumi
Most acrylic yarn amigurumi can be hand-washed gently in cool water with a mild soap, then gently squeezed (never wrung) and laid flat or hung to dry. If the yarn is machine washable, a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag works well. Avoid high heat, which can distort the polyfill stuffing and the yarn fibers.
If you’re giving this bear as a gift for a child, acrylic yarn has the advantage of being very durable and easy to clean. If you’re making it purely as a display piece or adult gift, you might enjoy working with cotton or a soft merino wool blend for a more luxurious texture.
A Note on Sharing Your Makes
If you use this pattern to make your own bear, I’d love to see it. Sharing your finished amigurumi on social media with photos and a tag or mention brings the crafting community together in one of the nicest ways — makers encouraging makers, beginners inspired by experienced crafters, and experienced makers reminded of the delight of doing something simple well.
Feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern. Please do not redistribute the pattern itself as your own or sell copies of it. Sharing the link
