Free Classic Crochet Teddy Bear Pattern: Make an Adorable Stuffed Bear from Scratch
There is something timeless about a handmade teddy bear. Long before toy stores filled their shelves with mass-produced plush animals, crafters were stitching and crocheting beloved companions by hand — bears that were treasured for decades, passed from one generation to the next, and loved until their seams wore thin. If you have been wanting to create something truly special with your hooks and yarn, this free classic crochet teddy bear pattern is exactly the project you have been looking for.
Whether you are crocheting a bear for a new baby, a child’s birthday, a holiday gift, or simply for the joy of making something beautiful, this pattern will walk you through every step. It is written for intermediate crocheters who are comfortable with basic stitches, though adventurous beginners who know how to work in the round will find it very achievable with a little patience.
Let’s get started.
What You Will Need
Before you pick up your hook, gather all of your materials. Having everything within reach before you begin makes the process much smoother and more enjoyable.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in your desired bear color. A warm honey brown, classic tan, or soft cream all work beautifully. You will need approximately 200 to 250 yards for the body. A small amount of contrasting yarn — dark brown or black — is needed for the nose and mouth embroidery.
Hook: A 3.75 mm or 4.0 mm crochet hook. Using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label recommends helps create a tighter stitch so the stuffing does not show through.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill, enough to firmly stuff all body parts.
Safety Eyes: Two 12 mm black safety eyes. If you are making this bear for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with yarn instead of using safety eyes, as they can pose a choking hazard.
Yarn Needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch Markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of each round.
Scissors
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook through the front loops of the next two stitches and single crochet them together)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)
rnd — round
All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise stated. Do not join rounds unless the pattern specifically tells you to.
Pattern Notes
The finished bear measures approximately 12 to 14 inches tall when made with worsted weight yarn and a 4.0 mm hook. This is a beautifully huggable size — substantial enough to feel like a real stuffed animal but not so large that it becomes unwieldy to make.
When working the amigurumi-style pieces, always use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round. It is easy to lose your place, especially as the piece grows larger.
Stuff each body part firmly as you go rather than waiting until the end. A firmly stuffed bear holds its shape much better and looks more polished.
The Head
Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 8: Sc 6, inc repeat around. (48 sts)
Rounds 9 through 16: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — 8 rounds even.
Round 17: Sc 6, dec repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 18: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)
Now is the time to attach your safety eyes. Position them between rounds 12 and 13, spaced about 10 to 12 stitches apart. Take your time with this step — the placement of the eyes has a huge impact on your bear’s personality. Eyes placed slightly closer together give a sweeter, more innocent look. Eyes placed a little wider apart give a more playful, curious expression. Once you are happy with the placement, push the safety eye posts through the fabric and attach the washers firmly on the inside.
Round 19: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 20: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head now. Add fiberfill and continue to add more as you close the head, making sure the shape is round and firm.
Round 21: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 22: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 23: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and weave it through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in the end securely.
The Snout
The snout gives your bear that classic teddy bear face. It should be a slightly flattened oval shape.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rounds 5 and 6: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Before you attach the snout to the head, embroider the nose and mouth. Using your dark brown or black yarn and a yarn needle, stitch a small oval or triangle shape in the center of the snout for the nose. Then, bring the needle down from the bottom center of the nose and stitch a small inverted V shape to create the mouth. Keep the stitches neat and consistent for the most polished look.
Pin the snout to the center front of the head, just below the eyes, and sew it on using the long tail. Stuff the snout lightly as you sew to give it a slight puff.
The Ears (Make Two)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Do not stuff the ears. Flatten the piece and fold it slightly to form a rounded ear shape. Fasten off with a long tail and sew the ears onto the top sides of the head, positioned between rounds 3 and 7. Pinning them before sewing is highly recommended so you can check that they are even.
The Body
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 8: Sc 6, inc repeat around. (48 sts)
Rounds 9 through 20: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — 12 rounds even.
Round 21: Sc 6, dec repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 22: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 23: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly.
Round 24: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 25: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 26: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 27: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close as you did with the head. Leave a long tail before closing if you prefer to sew the head on from this end.
The Arms (Make Two)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rounds 5 and 6: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Round 7: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 8 through 18: Sc in each st around. (18 sts) — 11 rounds even.
Stuff the arm, leaving the top portion slightly understuffed so the arm can be flattened when you sew it onto the body. This makes attachment easier and gives the arm more natural movement. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.
The Legs (Make Two)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rounds 6 through 9: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — 4 rounds even.
Round 10: Sc 9, dec 6 times, sc 9. (24 sts)
Round 11: Sc 9, dec 3 times, sc 9. (21 sts)
Round 12: Sc in each st around. (21 sts)
Round 13: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 14 through 24: Sc in each st around. (18 sts) — 11 rounds even.
Stuff the leg firmly all the way through. Fasten off with a long tail.
The Tail
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Round 5: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Stuff lightly. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.
Assembling Your Teddy Bear
Assembly is where everything comes together, and it is the step that requires the most patience. The way you attach and position the pieces will determine how professional and charming your finished bear looks.
Start by attaching the head to the body. Position the head so it sits centered on the top of the body, slightly toward the front. Use your yarn needle and a length of matching yarn to whipstitch around the entire opening, sewing the head firmly in place. Go around twice for extra security.
Next, attach the ears to the head if you have not done so already. They should sit on the top sides of the head, slightly behind the center line.
Sew the arms onto the sides of the body, positioned at the upper portion between rounds 3 and 8 from the top. Flatten the top of each arm before sewing so the attachment is flush against the body. This gives the arms a natural draping position.
Attach the legs to the bottom of the body, positioning them so the bear can sit upright if balanced correctly. You can also position the legs angled outward slightly for a classic seated pose.
Finally, sew the tail onto the back of the body, centered between rounds 10 and 14.
Tips for a Beautiful Finished Bear
Tension matters enormously in amigurumi. If your stitches are too loose, the stuffing will show through and the bear will look lumpy. If this is happening, try going down a hook size.
Invisible decreases are worth learning if you have not already. They create a much neater decrease than the standard method and significantly improve the overall look of your work.
When sewing pieces together, using the same yarn you crocheted with makes your seams invisible. Take your time with this step and use plenty of pins to hold everything in place before committing.
If you want to add extra character to your bear, you can use a wire brush or pet slicker brush to gently fluff the yarn after assembly. This gives the bear a soft, fuzzy texture that looks incredibly charming.
Giving your finished bear a gentle squeeze on all sides helps redistribute the stuffing evenly and smooths out any lumps or flat spots.
Customizing Your Classic Crochet Teddy Bear
One of the greatest joys of making a handmade bear is how easily you can personalize it. Here are a few ideas to make your bear truly one of a kind.
Consider adding a small crocheted bow or ribbon around the neck. A simple rectangle of contrasting color yarn, folded and tied, takes only minutes and adds a lovely finishing touch.
You can dress your bear in a tiny crocheted sweater or vest. There are many free miniature clothing patterns available that are sized to fit standard amigurumi bears of this size.
Changing the yarn color entirely opens up a whole world of possibilities. A white bear with pale pink inner ears and a light pink nose has a distinctly different personality from a classic honey-brown bear. Dark chocolate brown yarn creates a beautiful and sophisticated bear that photographs beautifully.
For a vintage or heirloom look, try using a textured yarn with a slight halo, such as a brushed alpaca blend. The resulting bear has a soft, dreamy quality that looks like something found in an antique shop.
Caring for Your Handmade Bear
If this bear is intended as a gift, especially for a child, it is worth thinking about how it will be cared for over the years.
Handmade crochet bears made with acrylic worsted weight yarn are generally machine washable on a gentle cycle in cold water. Place the bear in a mesh laundry bag to protect it during washing. Reshape the bear while it is damp and allow it to air dry completely before use.
Bears made with natural fiber yarns like cotton, wool, or alpaca should be hand washed in cool water and laid flat to dry.
If the safety eyes become loose at any point, remove them and replace them with new ones or replace them entirely with embroidered eyes.
A Final Word
Making a crochet teddy bear by hand is one of those projects that feels genuinely magical from start to finish. You begin with a skein of yarn and a hook, and a few hours later you hold in your hands a complete, huggable little companion. There is real craft here — the careful tension of each stitch, the patience of assembly, the thoughtfulness of customization — and the result is something that no store-bought toy can replicate.
This free classic crochet teddy bear pattern has been designed to be thorough, accessible, and rewarding. Whether this is your first amigurumi project or one of many, we hope this bear brings as much joy to the person who receives it
