Free Chubby Moose and Reindeer Crochet Pattern: Adorable Amigurumi You’ll Love Making

If you’ve been searching for a free crochet pattern that combines whimsy, warmth, and that irresistible chubby charm, you’ve come to exactly the right place. This free chubby moose and reindeer crochet pattern is designed for crafters who want to create something truly special — whether it’s a holiday decoration, a nursery gift, a stuffed animal for a little one, or simply a delightful addition to your own handmade collection. These two woodland creatures are worked in a similar style, so once you’ve mastered one, the second comes together with satisfying speed and confidence.

Let’s dive into everything you need to know: the materials, the stitches, the full pattern instructions, and plenty of tips to help you along the way.

Why You’ll Fall in Love With These Chubby Woodland Critters

There’s something undeniably magical about chubby amigurumi. The round, plump bodies, the oversized heads, the tiny stubby limbs — everything about this style of crochet is designed to make you smile. Moose and reindeer are particularly perfect candidates for the chubby amigurumi treatment because their real-life counterparts already have such personality-packed faces, complete with those magnificent antlers and expressive noses.

The chubby moose in this pattern stands about 7 to 8 inches tall when finished, and the reindeer is similarly sized, making them ideal for display on a shelf, nestled in a holiday wreath, or tucked into a gift basket. Both animals share the same foundational body shape, which is great news if you want to make a matching set for a woodland-themed nursery or a holiday gift exchange.

These patterns are beginner-friendly in many respects — the basic construction relies on simple crochet in the round — but they do incorporate a few intermediate elements like antler shaping and color changes. If you’ve made amigurumi before, you’ll breeze through. If you’re newer to the craft, consider this a wonderful learning project that will leave you with something you’re genuinely proud of.

Materials You’ll Need

Before casting on, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you start makes the process smoother and more enjoyable.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn works beautifully for these patterns, giving the finished animals a nice sturdy structure. For the moose, you’ll want a medium brown (like a warm caramel or coffee shade) for the body, a lighter tan or cream for the muzzle and inner ears, and a small amount of dark brown or black for the antlers. For the reindeer, choose a warm tan or fawn color for the body, cream or white for the belly and muzzle, and either brown or a festive color like red or green for the antlers if you want a playful holiday twist.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook is recommended. Use the smaller hook if you want a tighter gauge and firmer fabric, which helps keep the stuffing from showing through. Amigurumi benefits from working at a tighter tension than you might use for a blanket or garment.

Stuffing: Polyfill stuffing is the go-to for amigurumi. Use enough to give your animals that satisfying chubby firmness, but don’t overstuff — you want them to hold their shape without looking strained at the seams.

Safety eyes: 12mm black safety eyes give these animals their sweet, expressive look. If you’re making this project for a baby or very young child, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead of using safety eyes, which can pose a choking hazard.

Tapestry needle: You’ll use this to sew pieces together and weave in your yarn ends.

Stitch markers: These are your best friends in amigurumi. Mark the beginning of each round so you never lose your place.

Wire (optional): If you’d like your moose or reindeer to have poseable antlers, you can insert thin floral wire into them before stuffing. This is completely optional but adds a wonderful sculptural quality.

Gauge and Abbreviations

Gauge: Approximately 4.5 stitches and 5 rows per inch in single crochet with worsted weight yarn and a 3.75mm hook. Gauge is not critical for amigurumi, but consistency matters — work at whatever tension gives you a tight, even fabric.

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

Magic ring = MR
Chain = ch
Slip stitch = sl st
Single crochet = sc
Increase = inc (2 sc in one stitch)
Decrease = dec (invisible decrease: insert hook in front loops of next two stitches, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops)
Back loop only = BLO
Front loop only = FLO
Round = Rnd
Stitch(es) = st(s)
Repeat = rep

The Full Pattern

Head (Make 1 — same for both moose and reindeer)

The head is worked in continuous rounds. Don’t join at the end of each round; instead, use a stitch marker to track your progress.

Rnd 1: Start with a magic ring, sc 6 into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc rep around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8–14: Sc in each st around. (42 sts, 7 rounds)
Rnd 15: Sc 5, dec rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 16: Sc 4, dec rep around. (30 sts)

At this point, attach the safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10, approximately 8 to 10 stitches apart. Take your time positioning them — the placement of the eyes defines the whole personality of your animal.

Rnd 17: Sc 3, dec rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 18: Sc 2, dec rep around. (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point.

Rnd 19: Sc 1, dec rep around. (12 sts)
Rnd 20: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and close the opening with your tapestry needle, weaving the tail through the remaining stitches and pulling tight.

Body (Make 1)

The body is that signature chubby shape — rounder and more pronounced than a standard amigurumi body.

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc rep around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc 6, inc rep around. (48 sts)
Rnd 9–16: Sc in each st around. (48 sts, 8 rounds)
Rnd 17: Sc 6, dec rep around. (42 sts)
Rnd 18: Sc 5, dec rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 19: Sc 4, dec rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 20: Sc 3, dec rep around. (24 sts)

Stuff firmly before closing.

Rnd 21: Sc 2, dec rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 22: Sc 1, dec rep around. (12 sts)
Rnd 23: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and close as with the head.

Legs (Make 4)

These stubby little legs are what give your moose and reindeer that extra dose of chubby charm.

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Working in BLO, sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 4–5: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, dec rep around. (10 sts)
Rnd 7–12: Sc in each st around. (10 sts, 6 rounds)

Lightly stuff the legs — you want them firm enough to hold shape but not so stuffed they can’t be flattened slightly for sewing.

Flatten the opening and close with a row of single crochets through both layers, or simply fasten off and sew the opening closed flat before attaching to the body.

Ears (Make 2)

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3–4: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 2, dec rep around. (9 sts)

Pinch the ear slightly to give it a natural cupped shape and sew closed at the base. Leave a long tail for attaching.

For the moose, make the ears slightly more elongated and oval. For the reindeer, a rounder ear works perfectly.

Muzzle (Make 1)

Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff the muzzle before sewing it to the face, centered just below the eyes.

For the reindeer’s classic look, use a small piece of red yarn or a red button to create that famous red nose at the center of the muzzle. Embroider two small oval nostrils in dark brown for the moose.

Antlers (Make 2 — Moose version)

Moose antlers are wide and flat with several points. This simplified version captures that iconic silhouette beautifully.

Main antler beam:
Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (11 sts)
Turn and sc back along the other side of the chain. (11 sts)
Sl st to join. Fasten off.

Antler tine (make 2 per antler):
Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (6 sts)
Fasten off.

Sew the tines to the main beam at angles to suggest the broad, palmate shape of moose antlers. Use wire inside if you’d like them poseable.

Antlers (Make 2 — Reindeer version)

Reindeer antlers are more branched and upright.

Main beam:
Ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (13 sts)
Sl st along the other side of the chain to give it body. Fasten off.

Branches (make 3 per antler in varying lengths):
Short: Ch 5, sc back along.
Medium: Ch 8, sc back along.
Long: Ch 10, sc back along.

Sew the branches to the main beam, spacing them evenly to create that classic multi-pointed reindeer look.

Assembly Instructions

Assembly is where your two dimensional pieces become a three-dimensional friend, and it’s genuinely satisfying to watch everything come together.

Start by pinning the head to the body before you sew anything permanently. This lets you adjust the angle — a slight forward tilt of the head gives your animal a friendly, inquisitive expression. Once you’re happy with the placement, use your tapestry needle and yarn to sew the head securely to the top of the body, working all the way around twice for a strong join.

Attach the legs to the underside of the body, spacing them evenly and making sure the animal can stand (or sit, if you prefer a seated pose). Sew the front legs slightly forward and the back legs slightly angled back for the most natural stance.

Pin the ears to the sides of the head, just behind the top, and sew them in place. For the moose, the ears sit a little lower and more to the side. For the reindeer, they angle upward and outward.

Attach the muzzle to the center of the face, below the eyes, sewing all the way around the edge after lightly stuffing it to give it that soft, plump look.

Finally, sew the antlers to the top of the head, just in front of the ears. This is the moment when your moose becomes definitively a moose and your reindeer becomes undeniably festive. Take your time here — the antlers are what people notice first, and a secure, well-placed pair of antlers makes the whole piece sing.

Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas

Once your animals are assembled, a few finishing details can really elevate the finished piece. Embroider a small smile with dark brown yarn just above the muzzle. Add a tiny nose for the moose using satin stitch in a dark color. Use a bit of blush or chalk pastel in a soft pink to add rosy cheeks to the reindeer’s face — just a light dusting with your fingertip makes them look wonderfully cozy and alive.

For holiday versions, consider tying a small ribbon or plaid bow around the neck of each animal. A tiny jingle bell on the reindeer’s bow adds a delightful touch. You can also crochet a simple sweater or blanket scarf for your moose by working a small rectangle in a contrasting color and wrapping it around the body.

If you’re making these as a set, consider varying the sizes slightly by going up or down a hook size, or by adding or removing a few rows from the body. A mama moose and a baby moose made this way are almost impossibly cute.

These animals also make wonderful ornaments if you scale them down using fingering weight yarn and a 2.0mm hook. At that size, they’re only about 3 inches tall and look magical hanging from a Christmas tree or tied to a gift package.

Tips for Success

Working at a tight gauge is the single most important tip for amigurumi. If you can see the stuffing through your stitches, go down a hook size. The finished fabric should be dense and even.

When doing the invisible decrease, always insert your hook through the front loops only. This creates a virtually invisible join compared to a standard sc2tog, and your finished piece will look so much more polished.

Stuff as you go rather than waiting until the end. It’s much easier to get an even, firm stuffing when you add it a little at a time during the final decreasing rounds.

Use pins generously during assembly. The few minutes spent pinning and stepping back to check the visual balance before committing to sewing will save you from unpicking and re-sewing later.

Label your yarn scraps after you finish. Moose and reindeer require very similar colors, and if you want to make more of these — and you will want to make more — having your yarn colors identified saves a lot of guessing next time.

Sharing Your Makes

If you make this chubby moose or reindeer, please share your finished project! There is nothing more encouraging for a fellow crafter than seeing the wonderful variations that come from the same pattern. Everyone’s tension is a little different, everyone makes slightly different color choices, and every finished animal has its own personality and charm as a result.

Tag your photos so the crochet community can celebrate your work