Free Amigurumi Good Witches Crochet Pattern: Stitch Your Own Magical Friend

There is something wonderfully enchanting about crocheting a tiny witch with a pointy hat, rosy cheeks, and a little broom tucked under her arm. Amigurumi good witches have become some of the most beloved figures in the crochet community, and it is easy to understand why. They are cheerful, whimsical, and surprisingly quick to make once you get the hang of the basic shapes. Whether you are crocheting one for Halloween, a birthday gift, a nursery decoration, or simply because you love making magical little creatures, this free amigurumi good witches crochet pattern will walk you through every step of the process.

This pattern is designed with beginners and intermediate crocheters in mind. If you know how to crochet in the round, work a magic ring, single crochet, increase, and decrease, you have everything you need. If some of those terms are new to you, do not worry — there is a quick reference guide within this post to get you started.

Let us dive into the magic.

What Is Amigurumi?

Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small, stuffed yarn creatures. The word comes from the Japanese words “ami,” meaning crocheted or knitted, and “nuigurumi,” meaning stuffed doll. Amigurumi figures are typically made in the round using single crochet stitches, which creates a tight, dense fabric that holds stuffing well and gives the finished figure a smooth, rounded appearance.

Good witches make a perfect amigurumi subject because their simple rounded body shapes translate beautifully into the classic amigurumi style. The pointy hat, the flowing dress, and the round head are all basic geometric forms — cones, spheres, and cylinders — that you can build entirely with single crochet increases and decreases.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin crocheting your good witch, gather the following supplies. Having everything on hand before you start will make the process feel smooth and enjoyable.

Yarn: You will need worsted weight yarn (size 4) in the following colors: skin tone (peach, beige, brown, or any shade you prefer), a main dress color (purple, teal, green, or black work beautifully), black or dark navy for the hat, and small amounts of white, red or pink for facial details, and any accent color you like for hair. Acrylic yarn works wonderfully for amigurumi because it is affordable, easy to care for, and comes in a spectacular range of colors.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn when making amigurumi. Using a hook slightly smaller than the yarn label recommends creates a tighter stitch that keeps the stuffing hidden and gives your witch a clean silhouette.

Safety eyes: 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes are the most popular choice. If you are making this witch for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead of using safety eyes, which can be a choking hazard.

Polyfill stuffing: Any polyester fiberfill stuffing works well. Stuff your pieces firmly enough that they hold their shape but not so tightly that the stitches stretch apart.

Yarn needle: A blunt tapestry needle or yarn needle is essential for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.

Stitch markers: These help you keep track of the beginning of each round. Even a small piece of contrasting yarn looped through a stitch works perfectly.

Scissors: A small, sharp pair of scissors makes clean cuts and keeps your work neat.

Optional embellishments: Small buttons, miniature ribbon bows, tiny flowers, or a little twig from your garden can serve as a broom handle. A few loops of dark yarn make a simple but effective broomstick.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle): Create an adjustable loop, work your stitches into it, then pull the tail to close the center hole.

ch — Chain stitch

sl st — Slip stitch

sc — Single crochet

inc — Increase: work two single crochet stitches into the same stitch

dec — Decrease (invisible decrease): insert hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then the front loop only of the stitch after that, yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and pull through the two loops on your hook

BLO — Back loop only: work the stitch into the back loop of the stitch below only

FLO — Front loop only: work the stitch into the front loop of the stitch below only

R — Round

st(s) — Stitch(es)

Pattern: The Head

The head is worked in continuous rounds. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you go.

Color: Skin tone yarn

R1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts)

R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)

R3: (sc 1, inc) repeat around (18 sts)

R4: (sc 2, inc) repeat around (24 sts)

R5: (sc 3, inc) repeat around (30 sts)

R6: (sc 4, inc) repeat around (36 sts)

R7–R12: sc in each st around (36 sts) — work these 6 rounds even without increasing or decreasing

Before continuing with the decreases, attach your safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9, spacing them about 6 stitches apart. If you are embroidering the eyes, you can add them after the head is fully assembled.

R13: (sc 4, dec) repeat around (30 sts)

R14: (sc 3, dec) repeat around (24 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point.

R15: (sc 2, dec) repeat around (18 sts)

R16: (sc 1, dec) repeat around (12 sts)

R17: dec around (6 sts)

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Use your yarn needle to weave through the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close the gap, then weave in the end.

Pattern: The Body

The body is worked from the bottom up in continuous rounds.

Color: Main dress color

R1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts)

R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)

R3: (sc 1, inc) repeat around (18 sts)

R4: (sc 2, inc) repeat around (24 sts)

R5: (sc 3, inc) repeat around (30 sts)

R6–R8: sc in each st around (30 sts)

R9: (sc 3, dec) repeat around (24 sts)

R10: sc in each st around (24 sts)

R11: (sc 2, dec) repeat around (18 sts)

R12–R14: sc in each st around (18 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail. Stuff the body firmly before closing. This piece does not need to be fully closed — the opening at the top will be used to attach the head. Set aside.

Pattern: The Arms (Make Two)

Color: Skin tone for the hand portion, main dress color for the sleeve

R1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts) — skin tone

R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)

R3–R4: sc in each st around (12 sts)

R5: (sc 2, dec) repeat around (9 sts)

Switch to dress color.

R6–R10: sc in each st around (9 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the arm — you want it to feel soft but not too firm, so it hangs naturally from the body.

Pattern: The Legs (Make Two)

Color: Skin tone or black for shoes, then skin tone for lower leg

R1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts)

R2: inc in each st around (12 sts)

R3: sc in BLO around (12 sts) — this creates a flat sole edge

R4–R5: sc in each st around (12 sts)

R6: (sc 2, dec) repeat around (9 sts)

Switch to skin tone if you used a different color for the shoe.

R7–R12: sc in each st around (9 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Stuff lightly.

Pattern: The Pointy Witch Hat

The hat is one of the most satisfying pieces to make because watching the cone shape come together is genuinely delightful.

Color: Black or dark navy yarn

R1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts)

R2: sc in each st around (6 sts)

R3: (sc 1, inc) repeat around (9 sts)

R4: sc in each st around (9 sts)

R5: (sc 2, inc) repeat around (12 sts)

R6: sc in each st around (12 sts)

R7: (sc 3, inc) repeat around (15 sts)

R8: sc in each st around (15 sts)

R9: (sc 4, inc) repeat around (18 sts)

R10–R11: sc in each st around (18 sts)

Now work the brim of the hat:

R12: inc in each st around (36 sts)

R13: sc in BLO around (36 sts)

R14: sc in each st around (36 sts)

Sl st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. You can add a small ribbon or a band of a contrasting color yarn around the base of the cone where it meets the brim to give the hat extra charm.

Pattern: The Hair

For simple hair, cut about 20 to 30 strands of yarn in your chosen color, each approximately 15 to 20 centimeters long. Use your crochet hook or a yarn needle to loop each strand through the stitches around the top of the head, pulling the ends through and tying them in a simple lark’s head knot. Trim the ends to your desired length. You can leave the hair straight, braid it, or gather it into two little bunches tied with ribbon.

For curlier hair, wrap yarn around a pencil or your finger, then carefully remove and sew the loops to the head. This creates charming ringlets that give your witch extra personality.

Pattern: The Broom (Optional but Adorable)

A tiny broom is the perfect finishing touch for your good witch.

For the handle, cut a thin twig from your garden or use a bamboo skewer trimmed to about 10 centimeters. Alternatively, crochet a simple chain of about 20 stitches, fold it in half, and join the ends.

For the bristle end, cut about 20 short strands of brown, golden, or rust-colored yarn. Bundle them together, fold the bundle in half, and use a separate length of yarn to tie them tightly around the fold point. Attach this bundle to one end of your handle, then trim the loose ends to even them out into a little bristle shape.

Stitch the finished broom to one of your witch’s hands with a few loops of yarn.

Assembly

Assembling your amigurumi witch is where all the individual pieces come together and the magic really happens. Take your time with this step and use plenty of pins to position everything before you commit to sewing.

Attaching the head to the body: Position the head on top of the body opening, centering it carefully. Use your yarn needle and the tail from the body to sew around the base of the head, joining the two pieces firmly. Work the yarn through the edge stitches of both pieces alternately until the head feels secure, then knot and weave in the end.

Attaching the arms: Pin both arms to the sides of the body at about round 11 or 12 of the body, positioning them symmetrically. The hands should point slightly forward or downward. Sew each arm in place using its yarn tail, stitching through several stitches to anchor them securely. Weave in the ends.

Attaching the legs: Pin the legs to the bottom of the body, spacing them symmetrically. Sew them in place with their yarn tails.

Placing the hat: Set the hat on the head and adjust the angle — a slight tilt to one side looks wonderfully playful. Sew around the inside edge of the hat brim to secure it to the head.

Adding the hair: Attach your hair strands before placing the hat so you can tuck some of them under the brim for a more natural look.

Adding the Face

The face is what gives your good witch her personality. Take a little time here and try a few different expressions before committing.

If you used safety eyes, they are already in place. Use a strand of pink or red yarn and your yarn needle to embroider a small curved smile between rounds 10 and 11, just below the eyes. A few stitches in a gentle upward arc are all you need. Some crocheters like to add tiny rosy cheeks using a small circle of pink felt glued on, or by lightly blending pink eye shadow or chalk pastel directly onto the yarn.

You can also embroider small eyebrows above the eyes using a single strand of dark yarn — just two small diagonal stitches give your witch a cheerful, knowing expression.

Color and Customization Ideas

One of the greatest joys of this pattern is how easily it adapts to different aesthetics. Here are some ways to make your good witch feel truly unique.

A harvest witch looks beautiful in warm autumn tones — burnt orange dress, deep brown hat, golden hair, and a little bundle of dried flowers in her hand instead of a broom.

A fairy-tale witch comes alive in soft pastels — lavender dress, pale pink hat, white hair, and iridescent yarn accents along the dress hem.

A Halloween witch is a classic for a reason — deep purple or black dress, midnight blue hat, wild orange or silver hair, and bold features with extra dramatic eyebrows.

A garden witch feels earthy and peaceful in mossy green, with brown hair woven with tiny flower embellishments and a small clay pot or bundle of herb sprigs sewn to her hand.

You can also dress your witch in colors to represent specific birthstones, astrological signs, or simply a child’s favorite color palette.

Tips for Beginners

Crocheting amigurumi for the first time can feel a little challenging, but a few simple habits make a noticeable difference in your results.

Always use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. It is very easy to lose count when crocheting in continuous rounds, and a stitch marker eliminates that frustration entirely.

Stuff as you go. Once a piece gets too small to reach inside easily, adding more stuffing becomes difficult. For larger pieces like the head and body, begin adding stuffing once the piece is about halfway closed.

The invisible decrease creates a smoother surface than the standard decrease, which can leave a small visible gap. It takes a moment to learn but makes a lovely difference in the finished appearance.

Weave in ends as you finish each piece rather than leaving them all for the end. It keeps your workspace tidy and makes assembly feel far less overwhelming.

Caring for Your Finished Witch

Amigurumi made with acrylic yarn can be gently hand washed in cool water with a mild detergent, then reshaped and laid flat to air dry. Avoid wringing or twisting the figure, as this can distort the shape. If your witch will be a displayed decoration rather than a toy, you can also spot clean her as needed.

Why We Love Good Witches

There is something deeply comforting about the image of a good witch. Unlike the frightening witches of old fairy tales, the good witch is wise, warm, and full of gentle magic. She knows the names of herbs and stars. She keeps a tidy garden and a warm hearth. She might cast a small spell to help lost things be found, or whisper something encouraging to a struggling seedling.

Crocheting a good witch is a way of honoring that archetype — of creating a small, tangible reminder