Crochet Teddy Bear Pattern: Step-by-Step Written Instructions for Beginners and Beyond
There is something timeless about a handmade teddy bear. Whether you are making one for a new baby, a child who needs a snuggly companion, or simply for the joy of creating something with your own hands, a crocheted teddy bear is one of the most rewarding projects you can take on. This free crochet teddy bear pattern walks you through every step from the very first magic ring to the final sewn seam, and it is written in a way that works whether you are following along with your hook in hand or watching the companion video tutorial.
This pattern creates an adorable, classic teddy bear that stands approximately 10 to 12 inches tall, depending on your yarn weight and tension. It is worked in continuous rounds using the amigurumi method, which means no seams down the sides and a beautifully smooth finish. If you have ever made a granny square or a basic crochet hat, you already have most of the skills you need to complete this bear. Even if this is one of your very first amigurumi projects, the instructions below are detailed enough to guide you all the way through.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather everything so your workspace is organized and ready to go. Having your supplies in one place makes the process much more enjoyable, especially when you are learning a new pattern.
For yarn, you will want a medium weight worsted yarn, also known as size 4 yarn. Approximately 200 to 250 yards of your main color will be needed for the body, head, and limbs. A small amount of a contrasting color works beautifully for the muzzle and inner ear, though you can absolutely make the entire bear in a single color if you prefer a simpler look. Classic teddy bear colors like honey brown, caramel, cream, or warm gray give the most traditional result, but this pattern works just as well in any color you love.
For your hook, a 3.75mm or 4.0mm crochet hook pairs well with worsted weight yarn and keeps the stitches tight enough to hold the stuffing without gaps showing through. For the face, you will need a pair of safety eyes in 9mm or 12mm, which give the bear that classic shiny-eyed look. If you are making this bear for a child under three years old, please embroider the eyes instead using black yarn or embroidery floss, as safety eyes can be a choking hazard for very young children.
You will also need polyester fiberfill stuffing, a yarn needle for sewing pieces together, stitch markers, scissors, and optionally a small amount of black embroidery floss or black yarn for the nose and mouth.
Skill Level and Abbreviations
This pattern is rated as beginner to intermediate. It uses only a handful of basic stitches, but because it involves working in continuous rounds and assembling multiple pieces, a tiny bit of patience goes a long way.
The following abbreviations are used throughout the pattern. All stitches are written in US crochet terminology.
Magic ring (MR) is your starting point for nearly every piece. Ch means chain. Sl st is slip stitch. Sc means single crochet. Inc is an increase, which means you work two single crochets into the same stitch. Dec is an invisible decrease, which means you insert your hook through the front loops of two consecutive stitches and work them together as one. BLO means you work through the back loop only. St means stitch, and sts means stitches. Rnd means round.
Part One: The Head
The head is the most expressive part of your bear, so it is a great place to start. Working from the top of the head downward, the shape builds naturally into a nice rounded form.
Rnd 1: Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) repeat around. (48 sts)
Rnds 9 through 16: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — Work these eight rounds even, without any increases or decreases. This is where the round shape of the head develops.
Rnd 17: (Sc 6, dec) repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 18: (Sc 5, dec) repeat around. (36 sts)
At this point, attach your safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, spacing them approximately 10 to 12 stitches apart. If you are embroidering the eyes, you will add those at the very end when the head is fully assembled.
Rnd 19: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 20: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly with fiberfill. You want it to feel solid but not so packed that it distorts the shape. Continue stuffing as you complete the remaining rounds.
Rnd 21: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 22: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 23: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing. Use your yarn needle to weave through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in the end securely.
Part Two: The Muzzle
The muzzle gives your teddy bear its sweet, friendly face. If you are using a contrasting color, switch to it now.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnds 5 and 6: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Fasten off with a long tail. Do not stuff the muzzle. Flatten it slightly and pin it to the front of the head, centered between the eyes. Using your yarn needle and the tail, sew it in place with small, even stitches around the entire edge. Once attached, use black embroidery floss or black yarn to add a simple nose — a small vertical stitch at the top center of the muzzle, followed by a V-shape or an upside-down Y for the mouth just below it. This small detail makes an enormous difference in the bear’s personality.
Part Three: The Ears (Make Two)
The ears are quick and satisfying to make. If you used a contrasting color for the muzzle, you can repeat it here for the inner ear.
For the outer ear, work the following in your main color.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
For the inner ear, if using a contrasting color, make a smaller circle.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Fasten off the inner ear piece with a long tail and sew it flat onto the center of the outer ear. Then fold the outer ear in half (do not stuff it) and sew the flat edge together using your yarn needle. Leave a long tail for attaching to the head. Sew each ear onto the top of the head, one on either side, at approximately round 5 on the head. They should be placed so that there are about 12 stitches between the inner edges of the two ears.
Part Four: The Body
The body is worked from the bottom up. This piece is stuffed firmly to give your bear a nice rounded belly.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnds 8 through 20: Sc in each st around. (42 sts) — These even rounds create the tall, rounded shape of the body.
Rnd 21: (Sc 5, dec) repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 22: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 23: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly. You want it quite solid so the bear holds its shape well when sitting.
Rnd 24: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 25: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. (12 sts)
Fasten off with a long tail and close the opening using the same method as the head — weave through the front loops and pull tight. You will sew the head to this closed end.
Part Five: The Arms (Make Two)
The arms are long, slightly tapered tubes that hang naturally at the bear’s sides.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4 through 6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 7: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnds 8 through 18: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — Continue evenly for these rounds to form the arm length.
Stuff the rounded end (which will become the paw) lightly. Leave the top portion of the arm only partially stuffed or unstuffed so that it sews flat and lies naturally against the body. Fasten off with a long tail. Flatten the top of the arm and sew it to the upper side of the body, one arm on each side, at approximately round 8 from the neck edge.
Part Six: The Legs (Make Two)
The legs are worked from the sole of the foot upward and are slightly larger than the arms to give the bear a stable base when seated.
Rnd 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 3 sc in last ch, then working back along the other side of the chain: sc in 4 sts, 2 sc in last st. (16 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc, sc in 4 sts, inc 3 times, sc in 4 sts, inc twice. (22 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (22 sts)
Rnd 4: BLO: sc in each st around. (22 sts) — Working through the back loop only here creates a nice edge at the top of the foot.
Rnds 5 and 6: Sc in each st around. (22 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in 7 sts, dec 4 times, sc in 7 sts. (18 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in 5 sts, dec 4 times, sc in 5 sts. (14 sts)
Rnds 9 through 18: Sc in each st around. (14 sts)
Stuff the foot and lower leg firmly. Fasten off with a long tail, flatten the top, and sew each leg to the lower front of the body, spaced evenly so the bear sits upright naturally.
Assembling Your Teddy Bear
Now comes the most satisfying part of the process: putting your bear together. Lay all of your pieces out in front of you so you can see the full picture before you begin pinning and sewing.
Start by attaching the head to the body. Place the closed end of the body against the closed base of the head, centering it carefully. Use pins or locking stitch markers to hold it in position while you sew. Using your yarn needle and a length of your main color yarn, sew around the entire join with small, tight whip stitches, going around at least twice for a secure hold. Stuff a small amount of additional fiberfill into the neck area before you close the seam completely if you feel the head needs extra support.
Next, pin the arms to the upper sides of the body and sew them in place. When positioned correctly, the curved paw end should face slightly forward, mimicking the natural angle of a real bear’s arm. Sew through both the arm and the body a few times in different directions to make the join strong.
Finally, attach the legs to the bottom front of the body. The flat top of each leg should sit flush against the body. Position them so that when the bear is placed on a flat surface, the feet point forward and the bear sits upright without tipping. Sew through each leg and into the body several times for maximum security.
Finishing Touches
Once your bear is fully assembled, take a moment to look it over. This is when the small details make all the difference.
If you have not already added the nose and mouth embroidery, do it now using black embroidery floss. A simple satin stitch triangle or oval for the nose, followed by a small curved or V-shaped stitch for the mouth, gives the bear a cheerful, classic expression. You can use a photo of your favorite stuffed animal for reference if you want to get the placement just right.
Trim any loose yarn ends carefully and weave them in with your yarn needle so nothing unravels over time. If you want to give your bear extra softness, a gentle hand-wash in cool water with mild soap followed by a reshape and air dry will fluff up the yarn beautifully.
Tips for Getting the Best Results
Tension is the most important factor in amigurumi. If your stitches are too loose, the stuffing will show through and the pieces will lose their shape. Try going down half a hook size if you notice gaps between your stitches.
Always use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Because amigurumi is worked in a continuous spiral rather than joined rounds, it can be easy to lose track of where a round begins and ends. A simple plastic stitch marker or even a scrap piece of yarn looped through will save you from losing count.
When stuffing, use small pieces of fiberfill at a time and push them into the corners of the piece with a pencil or the blunt end of your crochet hook. Large clumps of stuffing tend to create lumps, while small pieces packed in evenly create a smooth, rounded surface.
If this is your first time attaching safety eyes, press them firmly into the fabric until the washer snaps fully onto the post on the back side. Tug gently to make sure they are secure before you finish stuffing the head, because they cannot be removed once locked in place.
A Pattern Worth Keeping
This crochet teddy bear pattern is one you will come back to again and again. Once you have made your first bear, you will start seeing all the small customizations that make each one unique — a different yarn color, a bow tied around the neck,
