Crochet Teddy Bear Pattern | Free Crochet Pattern
There is something timeless about a handmade teddy bear. Whether you are crafting one for a new baby, a toddler who needs a snuggly companion, or simply because you love making adorable amigurumi-style plushies, a crochet teddy bear sits at the top of the list of most-loved makes. This free crochet pattern will walk you through every step of creating your very own stuffed bear from scratch — no experience beyond basic crochet stitches required.
This pattern is beginner-friendly, clearly written, and designed to produce a bear that stands approximately 10 to 12 inches tall when finished, depending on your yarn weight and tension. Read through the entire pattern before you begin so you can familiarize yourself with the construction sequence and any techniques that might be new to you.
Materials You Will Need
Before you pick up your hook, gather everything on this list. Having your supplies organized before you start makes the whole process much smoother.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (size 4) in your chosen bear color — approximately 200 yards. You will also need a small amount of a contrasting color for the muzzle if you want a two-toned look, and a bit of black or dark brown for embroidered facial features. Any soft, durable yarn works beautifully here. Cotton-acrylic blends are wonderful for toys because they are easy to wash, while a plush or chenille yarn will give your bear an extra-cuddly texture.
Hook: 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook. A slightly smaller hook than the yarn label recommends will create a tighter fabric and prevent the polyfill stuffing from showing through the stitches.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill stuffing, enough to firmly fill the body, head, and all limbs.
Safety eyes: Two 12mm black safety eyes. If you are making this bear for a child under three years old, skip the safety eyes entirely and embroider the eyes instead using black yarn or embroidery floss, as safety eyes can be a choking hazard.
Yarn needle: A blunt tapestry or yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch markers: At least two, to mark the beginning of rounds.
Scissors
Optional: A small piece of felt or a button for a nose, or you can embroider the nose directly onto the muzzle.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
This pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring (also called a magic circle)
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (2 single crochets worked into the same stitch)
dec — decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook through front loops only of next 2 stitches, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)
rnd — round
( ) — work the stitches inside the parentheses the indicated number of times
[number] — the number in brackets at the end of a round is your stitch count for that round
All parts of this bear are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of each round unless the pattern specifically tells you to. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where each new round begins.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for this pattern, but to achieve a bear close to the described finished size, aim for approximately 4 sc = 1 inch and 4 rounds = 1 inch using worsted weight yarn and a 3.75mm hook. A tighter gauge will produce a smaller, firmer bear. A looser gauge will produce a larger, softer bear.
Pattern Notes
All pieces are worked from the bottom up or from the center outward. The head and body are the largest pieces and will take the most time. The ears, arms, and legs are small and work up quickly. Stuff each piece firmly as you go — it is much easier to add stuffing before closing a piece than to try to force it in at the end.
When sewing pieces together, take your time to position each part symmetrically before securing it permanently. Pin or hold pieces in place with stitch markers to check placement before stitching.
The Pattern
Head
Start with a magic ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. [30]
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. [36]
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around. [42]
Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) repeat around. [48]
Rnds 9–16: Sc in each st around. [48] (8 rounds even)
Rnd 17: (Sc 6, dec) repeat around. [42]
Rnd 18: (Sc 5, dec) repeat around. [36]
At this point, attach your safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, spaced approximately 10 to 12 stitches apart. If you are embroidering eyes instead, you will do that after the head is fully assembled.
Rnd 19: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. [30]
Rnd 20: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. [24]
Begin stuffing the head now. Continue adding stuffing as the opening closes.
Rnd 21: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 22: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. [12]
Rnd 23: Dec around. [6]
Fasten off and close by running the yarn tail through the remaining front loops and pulling tight. Weave in the end. Set the head aside.
Muzzle
Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. [24]
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. [24]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the muzzle. Flatten it slightly — it should look like a small round disc. Sew it onto the center front of the head, centered between and just below the safety eyes. Before closing the seam entirely, you can lightly stuff the muzzle with a pinch of fiberfill to give it a bit of dimension if you prefer. Embroider a nose and mouth using black yarn or embroidery floss. A classic teddy bear nose is a small horizontal satin stitch oval at the top center of the muzzle, with a short vertical line coming down from the center and then two diagonal lines spreading out like a small “Y” for the mouth.
Ears (make 2)
Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. [24]
Rnds 5–6: Sc in each st around. [24]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the ear — do not stuff it. Fold the bottom edge slightly inward to create a natural cupped shape and sew the folded edge closed with a few stitches. Sew the ears to the top of the head, one on each side, with the bottom of each ear placed at approximately round 7 or 8. The ears should sit roughly 8 to 9 stitches apart, measured across the top of the head.
Body
Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. [30]
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. [36]
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around. [42]
Rnds 8–18: Sc in each st around. [42] (11 rounds even)
Rnd 19: (Sc 5, dec) repeat around. [36]
Rnd 20: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. [30]
Rnd 21: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. [24]
Begin stuffing the body firmly now.
Rnd 22: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 23: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. [12]
Rnd 24: Dec around. [6]
Fasten off and close. Weave in the end. Sew the head onto the top of the body, positioning it slightly toward the front so the bear’s face looks forward naturally. Take your time with this step — the placement of the head makes a huge difference in the overall look of the finished bear.
Arms (make 2)
Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. [18]
Rnds 4–6: Sc in each st around. [18] (3 rounds even)
Rnd 7: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. [12]
Rnds 8–16: Sc in each st around. [12] (9 rounds even)
Stuff the paw end of the arm firmly and the upper arm portion lightly so it can be positioned more naturally when sewn to the body.
Rnd 17: Dec around. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Close the opening and sew the arms to the sides of the body at approximately round 20 to 22 (near the top of the body). The arms should hang slightly forward and downward for a natural pose.
Legs (make 2)
Rnd 1: 6 sc into MR. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. [24]
Rnds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [24] (3 rounds even)
Rnd 8: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. [18]
Rnds 9–18: Sc in each st around. [18] (10 rounds even)
Stuff the foot firmly and the leg portion moderately.
Rnd 19: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. [12]
Rnd 20: Dec around. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Close and sew the legs to the bottom of the body, one on each side of the center front. Positioning the legs so they face slightly outward will give your bear a charming, natural sitting stance.
Assembling Your Crochet Teddy Bear
Assembly is where your bear truly comes to life, and it is worth slowing down here to get the placement right. Lay all of your finished pieces out in front of you before you start sewing anything permanently.
Pin the head to the top of the body and view it from the front, back, and both sides. Adjust until the angle looks natural and the face is centered the way you want it. The neck join should be secure — use a whip stitch or mattress stitch all the way around the opening and then go around a second time for extra strength, especially if the bear is destined for a child who will carry it everywhere.
For the arms, position them at the upper sides of the body so that the paws hang slightly in front. You can angle them forward or leave them straight down — both look adorable. Sew through the body and back through the arm several times before knotting off for a strong joint.
For the legs, sew them firmly to the very bottom sides of the body. If you want your bear to sit on its own, make sure the bottoms of the feet are flat and the legs are angled slightly outward. A bit of extra stuffing in the feet will help them stay flat and stable.
Once all the major pieces are attached, go back and check that all your ends are woven in securely. Yarn ends have a way of finding their way out of a toy over time, so weave each one in at least two different directions through the fabric before trimming.
Customization Ideas
One of the most wonderful things about making your own crochet teddy bear is how easily you can personalize it. Here are some ideas to make yours completely unique.
You can dress your bear in a tiny crocheted outfit — a simple sweater or a little dress only takes an hour or two and transforms the bear’s personality entirely. You can also change the yarn color to make a polar bear in white, a panda using black and white yarn, or a sun bear in deep chocolate brown.
Adding a contrasting inner ear color is a small detail that makes a big visual impact. Simply crochet a smaller circle in a contrasting color and sew it onto the front of each ear before attaching the ears to the head.
If you want a more vintage look, consider skipping the safety eyes and embroidering large, expressive button-style eyes instead. A slightly off-center placement and a touch of white yarn for a highlight can give your bear a wonderfully characterful expression.
For a baby-safe version, use all embroidered features, choose a yarn that meets toy safety standards, and check that all seams are reinforced to withstand enthusiastic chewing and tugging.
Care Instructions
Acrylic and cotton blend yarns can typically be machine washed on a gentle cycle in cold water and laid flat to dry. Avoid the dryer, as heat can distort the shape of a stuffed toy. If you used a specialty yarn like chenille or velvet, hand washing is safer. Always check the care label on your specific yarn before washing the finished toy.
Tips for Beginners
If this is your first time crocheting a stuffed animal, a few extra tips will make the process much less frustrating. First, always use a hook size slightly smaller than recommended on the yarn label when making toys, so your stitches are tight enough to hold the stuffing in. Second, the invisible decrease is your best friend for amigurumi — it creates a much smoother surface than a standard sc2tog decrease. Third, stuff your pieces as you go rather than waiting until the end, especially for the head and body, since the openings get very small as you work the final decrease rounds.
Do not worry if your finished bear looks a little different from the photos you have seen online. Every handmade bear is unique, and the slight variations that come from your individual tension and style are part of what makes a handmade toy so special.
A Final Thought
Crocheting a teddy bear is one of those projects that feels genuinely rewarding from start to finish. There is something deeply satisfying about turning a skein of yarn into a soft, huggable creature that might become someone’s most beloved childhood companion. Whether this is your first crochet animal or your hundredth, we hope this pattern gives you everything you need to make a bear you are truly proud of.
If you make this pattern, we would love to see your finished bears. Share your photos on social media and tag your post so the crochet community can celebrate your work. Happy crocheting!
