Crochet Snake Pattern | Cute Amigurumi Snake Tutorial

There is something endlessly charming about an amigurumi snake. Unlike many plush animals that require carefully shaping ears, wings, or limbs, the snake invites you to focus entirely on texture, color, and personality. The result is a project that looks impressive but is actually one of the most beginner-friendly amigurumi designs you can make. Whether you are looking for a quirky gift, a fun desk companion, or a colorful toy for a child, this crochet snake pattern has you covered from head to tail.

In this tutorial, you will find everything you need to complete your own adorable amigurumi snake, including a full materials list, gauge information, stitch abbreviations, and a detailed row-by-row pattern. Along the way, you will pick up tips for shaping the head, creating a satisfying curled body, and adding the finishing touches that bring your snake to life.

Why You Will Love This Pattern

Amigurumi snakes are satisfying to make for a handful of reasons. First, the body is worked in a continuous spiral, which means no complicated seaming along the sides. Second, the snake’s elongated shape gives you a great excuse to experiment with color changes, stripes, or variegated yarn. Third, the finished toy is lightweight, durable, and easy to stuff firmly so it holds its playful coiled pose on a shelf.

This particular pattern is designed at an intermediate beginner level. If you have made a basic amigurumi ball or any small crocheted animal before, you are more than ready to tackle this snake. Total working time is roughly three to five hours, depending on how long you make the body. You can keep the snake short and chubby for a baby toy, or extend the body significantly for a dramatic shelf display piece.

Materials You Will Need

Before you pick up your hook, gather the following supplies. Having everything within reach before you start makes the process much smoother.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (category 4) works beautifully for this pattern and gives you a finished snake that is roughly 18 to 22 inches long when coiled. Any fiber works, but a smooth acrylic yarn photographs best and holds its shape well after stuffing. You will need approximately 100 to 150 yards of your main color and 20 to 40 yards each of any accent colors if you plan to add stripes.

Hook: A 3.5mm (E/4) crochet hook. Going down a hook size from what the yarn label recommends creates a tighter fabric that keeps your polyfill stuffing from showing through.

Safety eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes. Larger eyes give the snake a more cartoonish, endearing look. If you are making this toy for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead for safety.

Polyfill stuffing: Approximately one to two ounces of polyester fiberfill. Stuff the snake firmly so it holds its shape, but not so tightly that it distorts the stitches.

Stitch marker: A removable stitch marker or a small piece of contrasting yarn to mark the beginning of each round.

Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and sewing on any embellishments.

Red felt or red yarn: For the tongue. A forked felt tongue gives the snake instant personality.

Optional: Fabric glue or a small amount of wire pipe cleaner to help the tongue hold its forked shape.

Gauge

For this pattern, 14 single crochet stitches and 16 rows equal approximately 4 inches using worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook. Gauge is not critical for amigurumi as long as your fabric is tight enough that stuffing does not peek through. Do a quick test swatch and adjust your hook size if needed.

Stitch Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used:

MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochet in the same stitch)
dec — Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook into the front loop of the next stitch, then the front loop of the stitch after that, yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round

All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of each round. Move your stitch marker up as you go.

Special Techniques

Invisible Decrease: The invisible decrease (dec) produces a much cleaner finish than the traditional crochet two together method. To work it, insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then into the front loop only of the stitch after it. Yarn over, pull through both loops (you now have two loops on your hook), yarn over again, and pull through both remaining loops to complete the decrease. This technique prevents the little “v” bumps that standard decreases can leave on the surface of amigurumi.

Magic Ring: Start all circular pieces with a magic ring rather than a chain ring. Pull the tail snugly after the first round to close any gap in the center. A chain ring leaves a small hole that can let stuffing show through.

Color Changes: When switching yarn colors for stripes, make the color change on the last yarn-over of the stitch before the new color begins. Carry the unused color loosely inside the work for short color runs, or cut and rejoin for cleaner results over longer stretches.

Pattern: The Head

The head is slightly larger and more rounded than the body, giving your snake that distinctive, sweet amigurumi face.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)

Rounds 7 through 11: Sc in each st around. (36 sts) — 5 rounds even

Before continuing, this is the moment to attach your safety eyes. Position them between rounds 8 and 9, spacing them approximately 10 to 12 stitches apart. The exact placement will depend on your yarn weight and personal preference, so hold them in place and check from the front before committing. Once they look right, press the washers firmly onto the backs of the posts.

Round 12: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 13: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Begin stuffing the head now, filling it firmly to about three-quarters full. You will add a little more stuffing from the body side as you work the neck and body join.

Round 14: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 15: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)

Round 16: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)

Do not fasten off. Instead, continue directly into the body. This seamless transition gives a cleaner finish at the neck. If you feel the head needs a bit more stuffing before you narrow past the neck point, add it now while you still have access.

Pattern: The Body

The body is worked in a continuous tube. The beauty of a snake pattern is that you can make this section as long or as short as you like. The base pattern below gives you a body of approximately 18 inches before coiling. If you want a longer, more dramatic snake, simply add more rounds to any of the straight sections.

Round 17 (neck): [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 18: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 19: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Rounds 20 through 30: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — 11 rounds even

If you are adding stripes, this is the most natural place to introduce your accent color. A classic two-round stripe is simple and striking. Switch colors on the last yarn-over of the stitch before the new color begins, and change back every two rounds to create even bands down the body.

Round 31: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Rounds 32 through 38: Sc in each st around. (24 sts) — 7 rounds even

Round 39: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Rounds 40 through 46: Sc in each st around. (18 sts) — 7 rounds even

Keep stuffing the body as you go, adding polyfill every few inches. Stuff firmly but not to the point of stretching the stitches. The body should feel solid and hold its shape when you bend it, but it should not look lumpy or distorted.

Round 47: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)

Rounds 48 through 54: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — 7 rounds even

Round 55: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)

Rounds 56 through 62: Sc in each st around. (6 sts) — 7 rounds even

This tapered tail section is where the snake gets its satisfying pointed tip. Continue stuffing as you go, but use smaller pieces of polyfill in this narrowing section so it fills evenly without bunching.

Round 63: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 2 times. (4 sts)

Round 64: Sc in each st around. (4 sts)

Round 65: Dec 2 times. (2 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail of yarn. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and weave it through the remaining 2 stitches, pulling snugly to close the tip. Weave in the end securely.

Making the Tongue

The tongue is one of the quickest steps but makes the biggest difference in personality. Cut a small rectangle of red felt approximately 1.5 inches long and half an inch wide. Use small, sharp scissors to cut a V-shaped notch into one short end, creating the forked shape. Apply a tiny drop of fabric glue to the base of the cut if you want the fork to stay slightly open and not fold closed.

Alternatively, if you prefer to crochet the tongue, chain 8 with red yarn and slip stitch into the second chain from the hook and the next 2 chains. This gives you one fork. Rejoin yarn at the original split point and slip stitch along the remaining 3 chains for the second fork. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Use your yarn needle or a toothpick to tuck the base of the tongue up into the mouth area of the snake’s face. Sew it in place with a few whip stitches using red yarn, or secure it with a small dot of fabric glue. Position the tongue slightly below and between the eyes for the most expressive look.

Assembly and Finishing

With the head and body already worked in one continuous piece, your main assembly task is finishing touches. Check that all yarn ends are woven in securely — pull each end in two different directions with your needle to lock it in place and prevent unraveling over time.

Give the snake a gentle but firm overall squish to distribute the stuffing evenly. If any sections feel thin or lumpy, you can use your yarn needle to manipulate the stuffing through the stitches from the outside.

To give your snake its signature coiled pose, simply arrange the body in a spiral on a flat surface. Snakes styled this way tend to stay coiled naturally because the stuffed body is heavy enough to maintain the shape by gravity. If you want a more permanent pose — for a display piece or a very active child’s toy — you can run a pipe cleaner through the center of the body before closing it up, then bend it into the desired shape.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about this amigurumi snake pattern is how easy it is to make your own. Here are a few ideas to get you thinking.

Stripes and patterns: A classic corn snake-inspired look uses bands of orange, red, and black. A pastel rainbow snake looks magical in a nursery. You could also try a simple two-color checker pattern by switching colors every stitch in the body section, though this requires patience and many color changes.

Scale texture: Work the body rounds in BLO (back loop only) for a subtle ridged texture that mimics scales. This small change adds a lot of visual interest and takes no extra time.

Glasses and accessories: A tiny pair of crocheted glasses or a miniature bow tie made from ribbon can transform your snake into a quirky desk companion or a themed gift.

Size variations: Scale this pattern up dramatically using bulky yarn and a larger hook for a giant floor snake that doubles as a draft stopper. Scale it down with fingering weight yarn and a 2.0mm hook for a tiny keychain snake.

Different color bellies: Many real snakes have a lighter-colored underside. You can achieve this effect by crocheting a flat oval in a lighter color and sewing it along the bottom of the finished snake’s body.

Caring for Your Finished Snake

Crocheted amigurumi made with acrylic yarn are generally machine washable on a gentle cycle in cold water, placed inside a mesh laundry bag for protection. Tumble dry on low or lay flat to dry. Avoid high heat, which can cause acrylic yarn to pill or lose its softness over time.

If you used natural fiber yarn like cotton or wool, check the yarn label for specific care instructions. Hand washing in cool water with a gentle soap is usually the safest choice for these fibers.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

My head looks lumpy. This usually means the stuffing is uneven. Stuff in small amounts and smooth the polyfill through the stitches with your fingers as you go. Overstuffing causes lumps; understuffing causes the head to look flat or deflated.

The stitches on my body are uneven. This can happen when tension varies throughout a long project. Try to crochet at the same time of day when you are most relaxed. Taking breaks and setting the project down between sessions can actually help you maintain more consistent tension when you return.

My color changes look sloppy. Always make your color change on the very last yarn-over of the stitch before the new color. Carry the old yarn inside the work for just a few stitches before cutting it, and leave a tail of at least 4 inches to weave in securely.

The tail won’t stay pointed. Make sure you are stuffing all the way to the very tip of the tail before closing it off. A small, tightly rolled piece of polyfill pushed in with a pencil eraser works well for narrow sections.

A Few Parting Thoughts

Making an amigurumi snake is one of those projects that reminds you why crocheting is such a satisfying craft. It is repetitive enough to be meditative, but the gradual emergence of a personality — those bright eyes, that little tongue, the satisfying heft of a fully stuffed body — keeps the whole process feeling fresh and exciting from round one to the very last stitch.

This pattern is written to be a solid foundation, and it genuinely rewards experimentation. Change the colors, extend the body, add texture to the stitches, give your snake a name and a tiny hat. The more you make it your own, the more you will enjoy both the process and the finished piece sitting on your shelf or in the hands of someone you care about.

If you make this snake, share it! The crochet community is wonderfully encouraging, and seeing what colors and customizations other makers choose is one of the great joys of publishing a pattern. Tag your finished photos and leave a note about any modifications you made — your version might inspire the next person who finds this tutorial.

Happy crocheting, and may your tension be ever even.