Crochet Raccoon Pattern – Cute Woodland Amigurumi Raccoon

If you’ve been searching for the perfect crochet raccoon pattern, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. This adorable woodland amigurumi raccoon is one of those projects that manages to be both beginner-friendly and deeply satisfying to make. With its distinctive masked face, fluffy ringed tail, and impossibly cute expression, a crocheted raccoon makes a wonderful gift, nursery decoration, or addition to any handmade toy collection. In this post, you’ll find everything you need to bring your own little trash panda to life — from materials and gauge information to full stitch-by-stitch instructions and helpful tips along the way.

Whether you’re new to amigurumi or an experienced crocheter looking for a fun weekend project, this pattern is written in a clear, easy-to-follow format. Let’s get started.

What Is Amigurumi?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s take a moment for anyone who’s new to the craft. Amigurumi is the Japanese art of knitting or crocheting small stuffed animals and figures. The word combines the Japanese words “ami” (crocheted or knitted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). Amigurumi figures are typically worked in continuous rounds using a small hook and sport or DK weight yarn, which creates a tight fabric that holds its shape and keeps the stuffing from peeking through.

What makes amigurumi so appealing is the combination of simplicity and creativity. Most pieces are made up of basic shapes — spheres, cylinders, and ovals — that are assembled together. Once you master those core shapes, the possibilities are truly endless.

Materials You’ll Need

To make this crochet raccoon pattern, gather the following supplies before you begin.

Yarn:
You’ll need worsted weight or DK weight yarn in the following colors. Worsted weight gives a slightly larger finished raccoon (approximately 7–8 inches tall), while DK weight will produce a smaller, daintier version around 5–6 inches tall.

• Gray (main color, for the body, head, and limbs) — approximately 80–100 yards
• Dark gray or charcoal (for the eye mask, ear tips, and tail rings) — approximately 30–40 yards
• Cream or off-white (for the muzzle area and inner ears) — approximately 20–30 yards
• Black (for the nose and optional paw pads) — a small amount

Hook: Size 3.5mm (E/4) for DK weight, or 4.0mm (G/6) for worsted weight

Other supplies:

• Polyfill stuffing
• Two 10mm or 12mm safety eyes (black)
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends
• Scissors
• Optional: a small piece of black felt for the nose, wire armature if you want poseable limbs

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge isn’t critical in amigurumi the way it is in garment making, but you do want your stitches to be tight enough that the stuffing doesn’t show through. If you can see gaps in your fabric when you stretch it slightly, try going down a hook size.

Using worsted weight yarn and a 4.0mm hook, the finished raccoon will measure approximately 7 inches from the bottom of the body to the tops of the ears, and about 4 inches wide at the widest point. The tail adds another 3–4 inches.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern is written using standard US crochet terminology.

• MR — Magic ring
• ch — Chain
• sc — Single crochet
• inc — Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
• dec — Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook in front loop of first st, then front loop of next st, yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops)
• sl st — Slip stitch
• BLO — Back loop only
• FLO — Front loop only
• st(s) — Stitch(es)
• ( ) — Work the instructions inside the parentheses in the same stitch
• [ ] x — Repeat the instructions in brackets the number of times indicated

A Few Tips Before You Start

Amigurumi is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round so you always know where you are in the pattern. Move the marker up as you complete each round.

When changing colors, make the color change on the last yarn over of the stitch before the new color begins. This keeps your color transitions tidy and clean.

Don’t stuff pieces until the pattern tells you to, but do start adding stuffing to the head and body before the opening becomes too small to work with comfortably.

For the invisible decrease, always insert your hook under the front loops only. This technique significantly reduces the little bumps that can appear on the outside of your work, giving your raccoon a smooth, professional finish.

Pattern: The Head

Using gray yarn, start with a magic ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)

Round 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)

Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)

Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)

Round 5: [sc 3, inc] x6 (30 sts)

Round 6: [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts)

Round 7: [sc 5, inc] x6 (42 sts)

Rounds 8–15: sc around (42 sts) — 8 rounds even

Round 16: [sc 5, dec] x6 (36 sts)

Round 17: [sc 4, dec] x6 (30 sts)

Before continuing, attach your safety eyes. Position them between rounds 10 and 11, with about 10–12 stitches between them. This is also the time to sew on or embroider the eye mask. Instructions for the mask are in the color embellishment section below.

Round 18: [sc 3, dec] x6 (24 sts)

Round 19: [sc 2, dec] x6 (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly. You want it to feel plump and hold its shape without being so tight that it distorts.

Round 20: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)

Round 21: [dec] x6 (6 sts)

Close the opening with a slip stitch or by pulling the yarn through the remaining loops. Fasten off and weave in the end. Set aside.

Pattern: The Muzzle

Using cream or off-white yarn, make a magic ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)

Round 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)

Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)

Round 4: sc around (18 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the muzzle slightly and sew it to the front of the head, centered just below the safety eyes, between rounds 12 and 16. Embroider a small triangle nose in black yarn or attach a black felt nose at the top center of the muzzle.

Pattern: The Ears (Make 2)

Outer ear (gray):

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)

Round 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)

Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)

Round 4: sc around (18 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Inner ear (cream):

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)

Round 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)

Round 3: sc around (12 sts)

Fasten off. Place the inner ear on top of the outer ear and whip stitch around the edges to attach them together. Pinch the base of each ear slightly to give it shape and sew firmly to the top of the head, angled slightly outward, approximately 5–6 stitches apart.

Pattern: The Body

Using gray yarn, make a magic ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)

Round 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)

Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)

Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)

Round 5: [sc 3, inc] x6 (30 sts)

Round 6: [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts)

Rounds 7–16: sc around (36 sts) — 10 rounds even

Round 17: [sc 4, dec] x6 (30 sts)

Round 18: [sc 3, dec] x6 (24 sts)

Round 19: sc around (24 sts)

Begin stuffing the body firmly. Keep the bottom flat so your raccoon sits nicely.

Round 20: [sc 2, dec] x6 (18 sts)

Round 21: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)

Round 22: [dec] x6 (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew the body to the head, making sure everything is aligned and centered. Add more stuffing through the neck opening if needed before closing completely.

Pattern: The Arms (Make 2)

Using gray yarn, make a magic ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)

Round 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)

Round 3: sc around (12 sts)

Rounds 4–12: sc around (12 sts) — 9 rounds even

Lightly stuff the arms, or leave them unstuffed if you prefer them to drape naturally. Flatten the opening and sc across to close. Leave a long tail for sewing. Attach to the sides of the body, just below where the neck meets the body.

Pattern: The Legs (Make 2)

Using gray yarn, make a magic ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)

Round 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)

Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)

Rounds 4–6: sc around (18 sts)

Round 7: [sc 4, dec] x3 (15 sts)

Round 8: [sc 3, dec] x3 (12 sts)

Rounds 9–16: sc around (12 sts)

Stuff firmly. Flatten the opening and sc across to close. Sew to the bottom of the body, angled slightly forward and outward so the raccoon can sit up on its own.

Pattern: The Tail

The tail is worked in alternating stripes of gray and dark gray to create the classic raccoon ring pattern.

Using gray yarn, make a magic ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)

Round 2: [inc] x6 (12 sts)

Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)

Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)

Rounds 5–6: sc around in gray (24 sts)

Rounds 7–8: sc around in dark gray (24 sts)

Rounds 9–10: sc around in gray (24 sts)

Rounds 11–12: sc around in dark gray (24 sts)

Rounds 13–14: sc around in gray (24 sts)

Rounds 15–16: sc around in dark gray (24 sts)

Round 17: [sc 2, dec] x6 in gray (18 sts)

Round 18: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)

Stuff the tail moderately — you want it to have some volume but still be flexible enough to position attractively. You can curve it upward behind the body.

Round 19: [dec] x6 (6 sts)

Fasten off and close. Sew the tail to the back of the body at the base, curling it up and to one side for extra personality.

Adding the Eye Mask

The raccoon’s eye mask is what really brings the character to life. There are two ways to create it: surface embroidery directly on the head, or by crocheting separate mask pieces and sewing them on.

For embroidery, use dark gray or charcoal yarn and a yarn needle. Working around each safety eye, use small straight stitches radiating outward to create a rounded teardrop shape that extends from just above the eye to slightly below it and outward toward the sides of the head. Connect the two mask patches with a narrow bridge of stitches across the nose area. Take your time with this step — the mask is the focal point of your raccoon’s face, and a little patience here pays off beautifully.

For a crocheted mask, create two small flat ovals in charcoal yarn and sew them in place before attaching the safety eyes, then push the posts through the crocheted pieces when you attach the eyes to the head.

Finishing Touches and Assembly Order

Assembly order matters in amigurumi. A good sequence for this raccoon is to finish and stuff the head first, then attach the muzzle and embroider the mask. Next, complete and stuff the body and sew it to the head. Then attach the legs to the bottom of the body, the arms to the sides, and the tail to the back. Finally, sew the ears to the top of the head.

Before you consider your raccoon finished, go back and check every sewn join. Give each part a gentle tug to make sure it’s securely attached. Little ones especially can grab plush toys by their ears or tails, so those joins in particular should be reinforced with a few extra stitches.

Weave in all your ends carefully and trim them close to the body so nothing unravels over time.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own amigurumi is the freedom to personalize. Here are a few ways you can make this raccoon pattern uniquely yours.

You can give your raccoon a tiny crocheted scarf or bow tie in whatever color coordinates with your decor or gift recipient’s preferences. A small scarf worked in sc across about 60–70 chains, then fastened off and tied around the neck, takes less than 10 minutes and adds enormous charm.

For a more whimsical woodland look, try adding a tiny crocheted acorn or mushroom for the raccoon to hold. Work the arms with a small wire armature so you can pose them to actually hold the accessory.

If you’re making this raccoon for a baby gift, consider using organic cotton yarn in soft, natural tones. Replace the safety eyes with crocheted eyes — a circle of black yarn sewn flat — to make the toy completely safe for infants and toddlers. Crocheted eyes are also a wonderful opportunity for extra expression: you can sew on a pair of closed, sleepy eyes for a dreamy look, or wide open circles with a little white highlight stitch for an alert, curious expression.

You can also scale the pattern up or down simply by changing your yarn weight and hook size. Using super bulky yarn and a 6mm or 8mm hook creates an oversized, huggable raccoon that kids absolutely adore. Using fingering weight yarn and a 1.5mm hook produces a tiny, delicate version that works beautifully as a charm, bag tag, or ornament.

Caring for Your Crocheted Raccoon

If this raccoon is destined to be a children’s toy or gift, washability matters. Acrylic yarn is the practical choice here — it holds up well to repeated washing, retains its color, and is widely available. To wash an acrylic amigurumi, place it in a mesh laundry bag and wash on a gentle cycle in cold water, then reshape and air dry. Avoid the dryer, which can cause acrylic to pill or melt if temperatures get too high.

If you use wool or a wool blend, hand wash in cool water with a gentle soap, squeeze (don’t wring) out the excess water, and lay flat to dry.