Crochet Plush Teddy Bear Amigurumi Free Pattern
There is something deeply satisfying about making a stuffed animal with your own hands. The moment you sew on the final button eye and fluff out the last little ear, you hold something that feels genuinely alive — soft, round, and full of personality. Amigurumi, the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed figures, has grown into one of the most beloved fiber arts communities in the world, and for good reason. The projects are portable, the materials are affordable, and the results are nothing short of magical.
This free pattern will walk you through every step of crocheting an adorable plush teddy bear from start to finish. Whether you are a beginner picking up a crochet hook for the first time or an experienced maker looking for a cozy afternoon project, this pattern is designed to be approachable, detailed, and enjoyable. By the end, you will have a sweet, round little bear that makes the perfect handmade gift, nursery decoration, or addition to your own collection.
Let’s get started.
What Is Amigurumi?
Amigurumi (編み包み) is a Japanese crafting technique that combines the words “ami” (knitted or crocheted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). The style is characterized by disproportionately large heads, small bodies, and simplified features that give each figure an endearing, cartoonish charm. Most amigurumi are worked in continuous rounds rather than flat rows, which creates a seamless, three-dimensional structure perfect for stuffed toys.
The teddy bear is one of the most classic amigurumi subjects, and it is easy to understand why. Bears are immediately recognizable, universally loved, and their round shapes translate beautifully into the curved forms that crochet naturally produces. This pattern leans into the plush aesthetic by using a slightly larger hook than the yarn label recommends, which opens up the stitches just enough to create a beautifully fluffy texture when the bear is stuffed firmly.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather everything on this list. Having your supplies organized before you start makes the process much smoother, especially when you are working in continuous rounds and need to keep track of your stitch count.
Yarn: Approximately 200 to 250 yards of bulky or super bulky weight yarn in your chosen bear color. A soft acrylic or acrylic-blend yarn works wonderfully for this project because it is easy to care for, comes in a wide range of colors, and holds its shape well after stuffing. Classic teddy bear shades include honey brown, caramel, warm cream, soft gray, and dusty rose, but feel free to choose any color that speaks to you. You will also need a small amount of a contrasting or complementary color for the muzzle and inner ears if you want a two-toned effect.
Crochet Hook: A size 5.5mm or 6mm hook works well with bulky yarn for this pattern. If you want an extra fluffy, textured look, go up half a size from what the yarn label suggests.
Polyester Fiberfill Stuffing: You will need enough to stuff the head, body, arms, and legs firmly. A firm stuffing gives the bear a satisfying roundness and helps it hold its shape over time.
Safety Eyes: Two black safety eyes in 12mm or 15mm size. These plastic eyes have a washer backing that locks them securely in place and are ideal for decorative display bears or toys for older children. If you are making this bear for a baby or very young child, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead for complete safety.
Yarn Needle: A blunt-tipped tapestry needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch Marker: A simple locking stitch marker or even a small piece of contrasting yarn to mark the beginning of each round.
Scissors
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here is a quick reference for every stitch and technique you will encounter.
MR – Magic ring (also called magic circle). This technique creates a closed, adjustable starting loop for working in the round with no hole at the center.
ch – Chain
sl st – Slip stitch
sc – Single crochet
inc – Increase (two single crochets worked into the same stitch)
dec – Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook through the front loops only of the next two stitches and work them together as one single crochet)
st(s) – Stitch(es)
BLO – Back loop only
FO – Fasten off
[x] x y – Repeat the instructions in brackets the stated number of times
Pattern Notes
All pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch — instead, use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round and simply continue crocheting in a spiral. This technique creates a seamless look that is one of the hallmarks of amigurumi construction.
The gauge for this pattern is approximately 12 stitches and 14 rows equaling 4 inches in single crochet with bulky yarn and a 5.5mm hook. Because gauge affects finished size, your bear may turn out slightly larger or smaller than the sample depending on your personal tension. The sample bear measures approximately 10 to 12 inches tall when complete. If you want a smaller bear, go down a hook size or use worsted weight yarn.
The Pattern
Head
Begin with your main bear color.
Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 4: [Sc 2, inc] x 6. (24 sts)
Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] x 6. (30 sts)
Round 6: [Sc 4, inc] x 6. (36 sts)
Round 7: [Sc 5, inc] x 6. (42 sts)
Round 8: [Sc 6, inc] x 6. (48 sts)
Rounds 9 through 14: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — Work these six rounds even without increasing or decreasing.
Now is the time to attach your safety eyes. Position them between rounds 11 and 12, approximately 10 to 12 stitches apart. Take your time here because the placement of the eyes defines the entire personality of your bear. Eyes set slightly farther apart create a sweet, innocent expression. Eyes set a little closer together feel a bit more alert and curious. Once you are happy with the placement, push the posts through the fabric and lock the washers firmly in place from the inside.
Round 15: [Sc 6, dec] x 6. (42 sts)
Round 16: [Sc 5, dec] x 6. (36 sts)
Round 17: [Sc 4, dec] x 6. (30 sts)
Round 18: [Sc 3, dec] x 6. (24 sts)
Now stuff the head firmly with fiberfill. Keep stuffing as you work the next rounds to maintain a nice round shape.
Round 19: [Sc 2, dec] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 20: [Sc 1, dec] x 6. (12 sts)
Round 21: Dec x 6. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and weave in the end securely.
Muzzle
The muzzle can be worked in the same color as the head or in a contrasting cream, tan, or pink shade.
Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the muzzle. Before attaching it to the head, use black yarn or embroidery floss to stitch a small nose and mouth onto the flat front surface of the muzzle. A simple Y-shape in satin stitch makes a charming little nose. Then pin the muzzle to the center front of the head, centered just below the eyes, and sew it in place with the long tail.
Ears (Make Two)
Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. If you want inner ears in a contrasting color, make two smaller flat circles by working Rounds 1 and 2 only, fasten off, and hand sew them onto the front of each larger ear circle before attaching the ears to the head.
Flatten each ear slightly and sew them to the top of the head, positioning them between rounds 3 and 5. The exact placement is up to your artistic instincts — ears set a little more to the sides give a classic teddy bear look, while ears placed more on top of the head feel rounder and more cartoon-like.
Body
Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 4: [Sc 2, inc] x 6. (24 sts)
Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] x 6. (30 sts)
Round 6: [Sc 4, inc] x 6. (36 sts)
Rounds 7 through 14: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Round 15: [Sc 4, dec] x 6. (30 sts)
Round 16: [Sc 3, dec] x 6. (24 sts)
Stuff the body firmly before continuing.
Round 17: [Sc 2, dec] x 6. (18 sts)
Round 18: [Sc 1, dec] x 6. (12 sts)
Round 19: Dec x 6. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close as you did for the head.
Arms (Make Two)
Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3 through 4: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 5: [Sc 1, dec] x 4. (8 sts)
Rounds 6 through 12: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)
Stuff the lower arm and paw lightly — you want the arm to be poseable and soft rather than stiff.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten the opening and sew the arm closed. Then sew each arm to the upper sides of the body, positioning them roughly at the level of rounds 6 to 8.
Legs (Make Two)
Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Rounds 4 through 6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Round 7: [Sc 1, dec] x 6. (12 sts)
Rounds 8 through 12: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Stuff firmly.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten and close the opening as with the arms. Sew the legs to the bottom of the body, positioning them so that the bear sits upright with a slight forward tilt.
Assembling Your Bear
Assembly is where everything comes together, and it is worth taking your time here. Pin each piece in place before sewing to make sure you are happy with the overall look and posture of your bear.
Attach the head to the body first. The neck opening on the head should be positioned centrally on top of the body. Use a long tail or a fresh length of yarn and a yarn needle to sew around the opening in small, even stitches, pulling the yarn firmly so the join is secure. The head should feel stable and not wobble.
Next, attach the arms. The tops of the arms should sit just below the widest part of the body. Sew through all layers several times for a secure attachment, then knot and weave in your end.
Finally, attach the legs. Sew them firmly to the lower sides of the body so that the bear sits in a natural, comfortable position.
Weave in any remaining yarn ends thoroughly. A properly woven end should not be visible from the outside and should not loosen over time.
Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas
Once your bear is assembled, there are so many ways to give it extra personality.
A tiny ribbon bow tied around the neck makes the bear feel immediately giftable. A miniature crochet scarf, a felt bow tie, or a small crocheted hat can transform your bear into a completely different character. If you are making this for a baby shower gift, pale lavender, mint green, or soft yellow yarn gives the bear a delicate, dreamy quality. For a more rustic, classic look, warm brown yarn with cream accents is timeless.
You can also experiment with the nose and mouth embroidery to change the bear’s expression. A straight horizontal line for the mouth makes the bear look calm and content. Angling the corners of the mouth slightly upward creates a gentle smile. You can even stitch tiny rosy cheek circles using pink yarn or embroidery floss for a sweet, flushed look.
Some makers like to add a small sachet of dried lavender inside the stuffing before closing the final piece — this gives the finished bear a lovely, subtle scent that is especially nice for a gift.
Caring for Your Finished Bear
Handmade crochet toys are surprisingly durable when made with quality materials and secure finishing techniques. To keep your bear looking its best, hand wash it gently in cool water with a mild detergent, reshape it while damp, and allow it to air dry completely before use. Avoid machine washing if your yarn is not labeled machine washable, as the agitation can distort the stitches and affect the shape.
If a safety eye ever becomes loose over time, reinforce it from the inside with a drop of fabric glue. If the stuffing compresses or shifts, you can sometimes refresh the shape by gently working the fiberfill back into place through a small opening in a seam, re-stuffing, and then stitching the seam closed again.
Tips for Beginner Amigurumi Makers
If this is your first amigurumi project, a few pieces of advice will make the experience much smoother. First, do not be discouraged if your tension is uneven at first — every crocheter’s hands find their rhythm at a different pace, and the texture of stuffed amigurumi is forgiving of small imperfections. Second, always use a stitch marker and count your stitches at the end of every round, especially during the increase and decrease sections. Missing a single stitch can throw off the shaping in the rounds that follow. Third, stuff as you go rather than waiting until the end — it is much easier to achieve the right firmness when you can feel and adjust the stuffing gradually rather than trying to pack it in through a small closing hole.
Finally, the single most important thing you can do to improve your finished result is to take care during assembly. A beautifully crocheted head and body can look awkward if the pieces are not aligned well, but even slightly imperfect pieces come together into something charming when they are assembled with patience and attention.
Why Handmade Gifts Matter
In a world full of mass-produced toys, a handmade amigurumi bear carries something that no factory can replicate: the time, care, and creativity of the person who made it
