Crochet Plush Raccoon Pattern | Cute Amigurumi Raccoon Free Crochet Tutorial
There is something undeniably charming about a raccoon. With their masked faces, striped tails, and curious little paws, raccoons are one of nature’s most whimsical creatures — and they translate beautifully into the world of amigurumi. If you have been looking for an adorable crochet project that is beginner-friendly but impressive enough to display or gift, this free crochet plush raccoon pattern is exactly what you need. Today I am walking you through every step of creating your very own stuffed raccoon, complete with detailed instructions, material lists, and tips for getting those precious facial details just right.
Whether you are a seasoned crocheter or someone who has just finished their first granny square, this tutorial is written with clarity in mind. Grab your hook and let’s make something magical together.
Why You Will Love This Amigurumi Raccoon Pattern
Amigurumi — the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and creatures — has taken the crafting world by storm, and for good reason. These little plushies are compact, expressive, and endlessly customizable. The raccoon is a particularly fun amigurumi subject because of its natural markings. The eye mask, the ringed tail, and the light and dark contrast in its fur give you a chance to work with multiple colors and create something that looks genuinely detailed without requiring advanced techniques.
This pattern uses basic stitches that most crocheters already know: magic ring, single crochet, increase, decrease, and slip stitch. You do not need to know any specialty stitches to complete this project. From start to finish, a dedicated crocheter can complete this raccoon in a single weekend, making it a wonderful last-minute gift option for baby showers, birthdays, or just because.
The finished raccoon stands approximately 7 to 8 inches tall when seated, making it perfectly sized for a shelf decoration, a child’s plushie, or a photography prop.
Materials You Will Need
Before diving into the pattern, gather everything on this list so your crafting session goes smoothly from start to finish.
Yarn: You will need worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in the following colors — medium gray, dark gray or charcoal, cream or off-white, and black. You do not need large quantities of any color except medium gray, which forms the majority of the body. A small skein or even leftover yarn from other projects will work well for the accent colors.
Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works best with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. You want your stitches to be tight enough that the stuffing does not show through, so size down if your gauge is loose.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill is the standard choice for amigurumi projects. Use enough to give your raccoon a plump, firm feel without distorting the shape.
Safety eyes: Two 12mm black safety eyes. If you are making this raccoon for a child under three, embroider the eyes instead using black yarn for safety.
Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and sewing pieces together.
Stitch markers: Optional but helpful, especially for marking the beginning of each round.
Scissors: Sharp scissors make clean cuts and help with yarn ends.
Pins: Useful for positioning the ears, arms, and tail before sewing them on permanently.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
MR — Magic ring
SC — Single crochet
INC — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
DEC — Decrease (invisible decrease, crocheting two stitches together)
SL ST — Slip stitch
CH — Chain
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
ST — Stitch
RND — Round
All rounds are worked in continuous spirals unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds unless specified.
Part One: The Head
The head is crocheted in medium gray yarn and forms the central, most visible part of your raccoon. Take your time here, as a well-shaped head sets the tone for the entire finished piece.
Round 1: Begin with a magic ring. SC 6 into the ring. Pull tight. (6 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: SC 1, INC repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: SC 2, INC repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: SC 3, INC repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: SC 4, INC repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 7: SC 5, INC repeat around. (42 sts)
Rounds 8 through 14: SC in each st around for 7 rounds. (42 sts)
Round 15: SC 5, DEC repeat around. (36 sts)
Before continuing to decrease, this is the right moment to insert your safety eyes and add the facial markings. Instructions for the eye mask are in the facial details section below. Add your safety eyes, attach the eye patches, and embroider the nose before the opening becomes too small to work comfortably inside.
Round 16: SC 4, DEC repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 17: SC 3, DEC repeat around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point. Continue stuffing as you close the remaining rounds.
Round 18: SC 2, DEC repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 19: SC 1, DEC repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 20: DEC around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Close the opening with your yarn needle and weave in the end.
Part Two: The Body
The body is also worked in medium gray and is slightly larger at the base, giving your raccoon a satisfying round, plush shape.
Round 1: MR, SC 6 into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: SC 1, INC repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: SC 2, INC repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: SC 3, INC repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: SC 4, INC repeat around. (36 sts)
Rounds 7 through 16: SC in each st around for 10 rounds. (36 sts)
Round 17: SC 4, DEC repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 18: SC 3, DEC repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 19: SC 2, DEC repeat around. (18 sts)
Stuff the body firmly before closing. You want the body to feel solid and hold its shape when you sit the raccoon upright.
Round 20: SC 1, DEC repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 21: DEC around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Close the opening and set the body aside.
Part Three: The Ears
Make two ears in medium gray. These are small and worked in flat rounds, then pinched slightly before sewing onto the head.
Round 1: MR, SC 6 into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: SC 1, INC repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4 and 5: SC in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. Flatten the ear slightly and use pins to position each ear near the top of the head before sewing them on securely. A raccoon’s ears sit relatively close together and toward the front-top of the head, which gives the finished plushie that characteristic alert, curious look.
For an extra touch, you can crochet a small inner ear piece in cream yarn using only Rounds 1 and 2 of the ear pattern, then sew it onto the gray ear piece before attaching the ear to the head.
Part Four: The Arms
Make two arms in medium gray yarn. These are worked in continuous rounds and left unstuffed or lightly stuffed so they remain soft and posable.
Round 1: MR, SC 5 into ring. (5 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (10 sts)
Rounds 3 through 10: SC in each st around for 8 rounds. (10 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff or leave empty. Flatten before sewing to the body at the upper sides, angled slightly downward so the arms look natural.
Part Five: The Legs and Feet
Make two legs in medium gray yarn. The feet are slightly wider at the base to give your raccoon stability when positioned in a seated pose.
Round 1: MR, SC 6 into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: SC in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 4: SC 1, DEC repeat around. (8 sts)
Rounds 5 through 10: SC in each st around for 6 rounds. (8 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff lightly. Sew the legs to the bottom front of the body so the raccoon sits upright easily.
Part Six: The Tail
The tail is the showpiece of any amigurumi raccoon, and the striped rings are what make this plushie immediately recognizable. You will alternate between medium gray and dark gray or charcoal for the stripes. Each color change is made at the beginning of a new round.
Round 1: With medium gray, MR, SC 6 into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: INC in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: SC 1, INC repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4 and 5: SC in each st around in medium gray. (18 sts)
Switch to dark gray.
Rounds 6 and 7: SC in each st around in dark gray. (18 sts)
Switch back to medium gray.
Rounds 8 and 9: SC in each st around. (18 sts)
Switch to dark gray.
Rounds 10 and 11: SC in each st around. (18 sts)
Switch to medium gray.
Rounds 12 and 13: SC in each st around. (18 sts)
Now begin decreasing to taper the tail.
Round 14: SC 1, DEC repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 15: DEC around. (6 sts)
Stuff the tail as you go, keeping it full but not overstuffed. Fasten off and close the tip. Sew the tail to the back lower section of the body. It can be positioned pointing upward, curling to one side, or laying flat — whatever pose appeals to you most.
Part Seven: Facial Details
This is arguably the most important step because the face is what gives your raccoon its personality and charm.
The Eye Mask: Cut two oval or teardrop-shaped pieces of black yarn for the eye patches, or crochet them separately. To crochet the eye patches, use black yarn and make a small flat oval: Chain 4, SC in second chain from hook, SC, INC in last chain, then work along the other side of the chain for a small oval shape. Alternatively, you can embroider the mask directly onto the head using black yarn and a yarn needle, drawing the mask shape around each eye. The patches should connect slightly in the middle, above the nose, to mimic a raccoon’s natural mask.
The Nose: Using black yarn and a yarn needle, embroider a small upside-down triangle for the nose at the center of the muzzle area. A few straight stitches arranged in a triangular pattern create a clean, simple nose that reads clearly from a distance.
The Muzzle: For a more dimensional look, crochet a small flat circle in cream or off-white yarn (MR, SC 6, INC in each st for 12 sts, then one round of SC 1, INC for 18 sts) and sew it onto the lower center of the face. This gives the raccoon that characteristic protruding snout look. Your safety eyes or embroidered eyes should sit just above this muzzle piece.
The Cheeks (Optional): A blush of pink embroidery thread or yarn on each cheek adds a sweet, kawaii-style touch. Just a few stitches in a circular pattern on either side of the muzzle is all you need.
Assembling Your Raccoon
Once all pieces are complete, the assembly is straightforward. Use your yarn needle and the long tails left on each piece.
Start by sewing the head to the body. Position the head centered on top of the body and pin it before sewing to ensure even placement. Sew all the way around the base of the head, securing it firmly to the top of the body.
Next, attach the ears to the top of the head. Pin them first to check placement — they should be roughly evenly spaced and tilted ever so slightly outward for a natural look. Sew securely using the long tails.
Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body. Position them at approximately the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions on the body, angled slightly downward. The arms should look relaxed and natural, not stiff.
Attach the legs to the lower front of the body. For a seated position, the legs should angle slightly forward and outward, giving your raccoon a stable base to sit on.
Finally, sew the tail to the lower back of the body. The tail can be angled to one side for a more dynamic look, or sewed straight out the back and allowed to rest on the surface beneath the raccoon.
Tips for the Best Results
Working with tight tension is the single most important thing you can do for amigurumi. Loose tension creates gaps that show the white fiberfill underneath, which significantly affects the finished look. If you find your tension is naturally loose, size down half a hook size.
When stuffing, add fiberfill gradually and check the shape of each piece as you go. It is much easier to add a little more stuffing at each decrease round than to try to push stuffing in after the opening has become too small.
For color changes, when switching between medium gray and dark gray on the tail, carry the unused yarn loosely along the inside of the work rather than cutting and reattaching each time. This reduces ends to weave in and keeps the interior tidy.
If your magic ring tends to loosen over time, go through the center hole once more with your yarn needle when weaving in the end and pull snug before securing the knot.
Take your time with the facial details. The face is what people see first and react to, and even small adjustments in eye placement can dramatically change the raccoon’s expression. Try a few placements with removable stitch markers or straight pins before committing.
Personalizing Your Raccoon
One of the most delightful things about amigurumi patterns is how easily they can be personalized. Consider dressing your raccoon with a tiny crocheted scarf or bow in your favorite color. You can also give your raccoon a small crocheted accessory — a miniature trash can lid is a funny and on-theme option for anyone who loves the raccoon’s reputation as a clever scavenger.
For a softer, plusher version, try using bulky weight yarn (Category 5 or 6) with a larger hook. Your finished raccoon will be noticeably bigger and have a chunkier, more huggable feel. Just be aware that your stitch counts may look slightly different with different yarn weights.
A chenille or velvet yarn in medium gray gives an incredibly soft, velvety finish that is absolutely beautiful but slightly more challenging to work with since the stitches are harder to see. If you are newer to crochet, stick with smooth worsted weight yarn for your first raccoon and experiment with specialty fibers once you are familiar with the pattern.
Sharing Your Finished Raccoon
If you make this pattern, I would absolutely love to see
