Crochet Hen – Cute & Easy Chicken Amigurumi Pattern

If you’ve ever wanted to add a little farmyard charm to your crochet collection, a hen amigurumi is one of the most rewarding projects you can make. Whether you’re crafting for a baby shower gift, a decorative shelf piece, or simply because you love the idea of a fluffy little chicken sitting on your desk, this pattern is designed to be approachable, fun, and genuinely satisfying from start to finish. In this guide, you’ll find everything you need — materials, stitches, tips, and the full step-by-step pattern — to crochet your very own adorable chicken amigurumi.

Why You’ll Love This Crochet Hen Pattern

Amigurumi has taken the crafting world by storm for good reason. These small stuffed figures are endlessly customizable, relatively quick to make, and they make incredibly thoughtful handmade gifts. A chicken, with its round body, little wings, bright comb, and tiny beak, is one of those characters that translates beautifully into amigurumi form. The chubby silhouette, the cheerful colors, and the playful personality all come through effortlessly in yarn.

This particular pattern is written for beginners and intermediate crocheters alike. If you know how to work in the round, increase, decrease, and do a slip stitch join, you have everything you need to complete this project. The pattern uses simple, repetitive rounds that are easy to follow, and each section of the hen — the body, head, wings, comb, beak, and wattle — is worked separately and then assembled at the end.

One of the things that makes this pattern so appealing is its versatility. You can make a realistic red hen with amber and cream accents, a whimsical pastel version for a nursery, or a multicolored flock if you’re feeling ambitious. The possibilities are as wide as your yarn stash.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you start will make the process much smoother.

Yarn: You’ll need a small amount of worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in the following colors. The exact yardage is approximate since the hen is small, but plan for about 50–80 yards of your main color and smaller amounts of the accent colors.

• Main color (MC): rust, terracotta, white, golden yellow, or any color you like for the body
• Accent color 1 (A): red or bright coral for the comb and wattle
• Accent color 2 (B): orange or yellow for the beak
• Accent color 3 (C): a slightly lighter or darker shade of your MC for the wing detailing, or simply use MC

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works well with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. You want a slightly tighter gauge than usual so the stuffing doesn’t show through.

Other supplies:

• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Two 9mm or 12mm safety eyes (black works beautifully, or amber for a more realistic look)
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends and sewing pieces together
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

• MR – Magic ring
• ch – Chain
• sl st – Slip stitch
• sc – Single crochet
• inc – Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
• dec – Invisible decrease (insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then front loop of following stitch, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
• st(s) – Stitch(es)
• rnd(s) – Round(s)
• BLO – Back loop only
• FLO – Front loop only

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge is not critical for amigurumi, but working tightly is important. With a 4.0mm hook and worsted weight yarn, your finished hen should measure approximately 4.5 to 5 inches tall and about 4 inches wide. If you use a smaller hook or lighter yarn, your hen will be smaller and denser, which is perfect for a keepsake or ornament. If you prefer a larger hen, simply go up a hook size or use bulky yarn.

A Note on Working in the Round

Amigurumi pieces are typically worked in a continuous spiral rather than joined rounds. This means you don’t slip stitch at the end of each round unless the pattern specifically says so. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go. This small habit makes it much easier to count your stitches and keep your place.

The Pattern

Body

The body is the largest piece and worked from the bottom up.

Rnd 1: Start with MC. Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tight. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)

Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)

Rnds 8–14: Sc in each st around. (42 sts) — work 7 rounds even.

Rnd 15: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)

Rnd 16: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)

Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (30 sts)

Rnd 18: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)

At this point, insert the safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, about 8 to 10 stitches apart. The eyes sit near the top of the body since the head will be worked as a continuation rather than a separate attachment in some versions — but in this pattern, the head is separate, so we’ll place the eyes on the head instead. Leave the body open for now and set it aside.

Rnd 19: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnd 20: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)

Begin stuffing the body firmly at this point. Continue stuffing as you work the final rounds.

Rnd 21: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of the 6 remaining stitches and pulling tight.

Head

The head is worked separately and sewn to the top of the body.

Rnd 1: With MC, make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)

Rnds 6–11: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — work 6 rounds even.

Before closing the head, insert your safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9, approximately 7 stitches apart. This gives the hen a sweet, forward-facing expression. Secure the backing washers tightly on the inside.

Rnd 12: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)

Rnd 13: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnd 14: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)

Stuff the head firmly.

Rnd 15: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and close the hole as before. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

Wings (Make 2)

Rnd 1: With MC, make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnds 4–6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Rnd 7: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)

Do not stuff the wings. Flatten them and hold them together, then sc across the top through both layers to close (6 sts across). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Comb

The comb gives your hen her most distinctive look. It’s made as a series of small bobbles or a simple ridged strip.

Option A – Simple three-bump comb:

With yarn A (red), ch 2.

Row 1: Work 3 sc in the second ch from hook. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc, sc, inc. (5 sts) Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Shape the comb slightly by pulling the tail to scrunch it into a gentle curve before sewing.

Option B – Three separate bumps:

Make three small pieces: For each bump, make a magic ring, work 6 sc, slip stitch to join, fasten off. Arrange them in a row and sew together before attaching to the head.

Beak

With yarn B (orange or yellow), make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Work 4 sc into the ring.

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (8 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)

Do not stuff. Flatten and close with a few whip stitches. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.

Wattle

The wattle is the small red piece that hangs below the beak.

With yarn A (red), make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the ring.

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnds 3–4: Sc in each st around.

Rnd 5: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (8 sts)

Do not stuff. Fasten off with a long tail.

Tail Feathers (Optional but Recommended)

For a little extra personality, add a small tail cluster.

With MC (or an accent color), cut 6–8 lengths of yarn about 3 inches long. Using your hook, fold each piece in half and pull it through a stitch at the back of the body, then pull the ends through the loop to form a fringe knot. Trim and fluff the tail feathers to your liking. You can add multiple layers for extra volume.

Assembly

Assembly is where your hen truly comes to life, and it’s worth taking your time here. The placement of each piece dramatically affects the personality and expression of your finished chicken.

Start by sewing the head to the top of the body. The head should sit slightly forward on the body rather than perfectly centered — this gives the hen a natural, alert posture. Use the long yarn tail left on the head and a yarn needle to whipstitch the head securely to the body, going around the entire base of the head at least twice for durability. Weave in your ends.

Next, attach the beak. Place it at the center front of the head, between the safety eyes and slightly below them. The beak should point straight forward. Sew it down firmly, going through the flattened beak piece and into the head several times.

Attach the wattle just below the beak so that it hangs naturally. A few secure stitches at the top of the wattle piece are all you need.

Position the comb along the top center of the head. Sew it down along its base, taking care to keep it upright and slightly angled toward the front of the head. If you made the three-bump version, make sure all three bumps are visible from the front.

Attach the wings on either side of the body. Position them roughly in the upper third of the body, with the wider end of each wing pointing toward the front. The wings should angle slightly downward for the most natural look. Sew securely using the long tail, going around the base of each wing twice.

Finally, if you added tail feathers, use scissors to trim them to a uniform length and fluff them gently with your fingers or a bristle brush.

Customization Ideas

One of the most joyful parts of making amigurumi is putting your own stamp on it. Here are a few ways you can make this hen uniquely yours.

Color variations: A classic white hen with a bright red comb looks crisp and charming. A golden yellow hen with an orange beak resembles a fluffy Easter chick. Deep brown or black yarn creates a gorgeous heritage breed look. Try multicolored yarn for an unexpected, whimsical feel.

Make a whole flock: Once you’ve made one hen, it’s hard to stop. Vary the sizes by using different yarn weights, or add chicks by making the body and head much smaller using fingering weight yarn and a 2.5mm hook.

Add embroidery details: Use a contrasting yarn or embroidery floss to add subtle wing feather lines, freckles on the cheeks, or a decorative breast pattern.

Create a rooster: Extend the comb to a single dramatic upright piece, elongate the tail feathers significantly, and add long curved spur shapes near the feet. A quick change in proportions and embellishments transforms your hen into a rooster.

Seasonal versions: Dress your hen for holidays by adding a tiny crocheted Santa hat, a spring flower garland around the neck, or a little harvest basket near the feet for autumn décor.

Tips for a Beautiful Finished Hen

Stuffing firmly but not overstuffing is the most important technique tip for any amigurumi. You want the body to feel full and smooth without lumpy seams or fabric distortion. Add stuffing gradually as you decrease, packing it in with a pencil eraser or stuffing tool to reach corners evenly.

Always close your magic ring tightly. A loose center leaves an unsightly hole at the bottom of the body that no amount of weaving in will fully conceal. Pull the tail firmly, then weave it in a figure-eight pattern through the surrounding stitches before trimming.

When sewing pieces together, use the same yarn as the piece you’re attaching. Matching the color helps any imperfect stitches disappear naturally into the work.

Take photos as you go. Beyond being useful if you lose your place, photos of your work in progress are wonderful to share with other crafters and make a sweet record of the making process.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a different yarn weight? Absolutely. Sport or DK weight yarn with a correspondingly smaller hook will produce a more delicate, miniature hen. Bulky yarn will give you an oversized, huggable version. Just keep your tension tight enough that the stuffing isn’t visible.

Are safety eyes safe for small children? Safety eyes are designed to lock firmly in place, but for toys intended for children under three, it’s safer to embroider the eyes using black yarn instead. Simply make two small French knots or work a few straight stitches in a cross pattern using a blunt yarn needle.

How do I wash my finished hen? Hand washing in cool water with a gentle soap is the safest option. Reshape the hen while damp and allow it to air dry completely before display.

Can I sell items made from this pattern? You’re welcome to make and sell finished hens using this pattern in small quantities at craft fairs or online. Please don’t sell or redistribute the written pattern itself.

My hen keeps tipping over — what can I do? A small weight tucked inside the bottom of the body before stuffing helps with stability. A few dried beans or poly pellets in a small fabric pouch work perfectly and keep your hen upright.

Final Thoughts

A crochet