Crochet Hen Amigurumi Pattern With Chunky Yarn

There is something deeply satisfying about crocheting a plump little hen. She sits on your shelf with her round belly, tiny wings tucked at her sides, and a look of complete contentment on her beak. Amigurumi — the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and creatures — has exploded in popularity over the last decade, and the humble hen has become one of its most beloved subjects. When you combine classic amigurumi techniques with chunky yarn, the result is a project that works up faster, feels wonderfully tactile, and produces a finished piece with beautiful stitch definition that beginners and experienced crocheters alike will love.

This pattern will walk you through every step of creating your own crochet hen amigurumi from start to finish. Whether you are looking for a fun weekend project, a handmade gift, a farmhouse-style home décor piece, or a safe stuffed toy for an older child, this chunky yarn hen is the perfect choice. The pattern uses basic amigurumi techniques, so even if you have never made a stuffed animal before, you will find the instructions clear and approachable.

Let’s get started.

Why Chunky Yarn Is Perfect for Amigurumi

Most traditional amigurumi patterns call for fingering or sport weight yarn with a small hook, producing tiny, intricate figures. Those patterns are beautiful, but they can be time-consuming and hard on the eyes. Chunky yarn offers a refreshing alternative.

With bulky weight yarn and a larger hook, your hen grows quickly — you can realistically finish the entire project in a single afternoon or evening. The larger stitches are easier to see and count, which reduces mistakes and makes the pattern much more beginner-friendly. The resulting fabric is thick, sturdy, and substantial in the hand, giving your finished hen a pleasing weight and structure.

Chunky yarn also means you need less stuffing to achieve a firm, round shape, because the yarn itself adds density. And from an aesthetic standpoint, chunky stitches on a small amigurumi figure give it a charming, almost sculptural quality — the individual stitches are visible and add texture that smaller yarn simply cannot replicate at this scale.

For this pattern, a size 5 (bulky) or size 6 (super bulky) yarn works beautifully. Good options include Lion Brand Pound of Love in bulky weight, Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky, or any similar smooth, round yarn that shows stitch definition clearly. Avoid yarn with a lot of texture or halo for your first attempt, as this makes it harder to see your stitches and insert the hook correctly.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather everything together so you can crochet without interruption.

Yarn: Approximately 100–150 yards of bulky (size 5) weight yarn in your main color (for the body, head, and wings). You will also need a small amount of yarn in a contrasting color for the comb and wattle — red is traditional, but orange, coral, or even a bright pink all look lovely. A few yards of yellow or orange for the beak completes the palette.

Hook: A 5.0mm or 5.5mm crochet hook. If your tension runs tight, go up half a size. The goal is a firm, dense fabric with no gaps that stuffing can push through.

Eyes: Two 12mm or 15mm safety eyes. Safety eyes have a post and washer that lock in place from the back of the fabric. Always use safety eyes rather than buttons for pieces that might be handled by young children, and even for decorative pieces, safety eyes look more polished and professional.

Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill, enough to fill the body and head firmly. A well-stuffed amigurumi holds its shape and looks much better than one that is underfilled.

Notions: Stitch markers, a yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends, scissors, and pins for positioning pieces before sewing.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle). This is the standard starting technique for amigurumi worked in the round, as it closes the center completely with no hole.

ch — chain

sl st — slip stitch

sc — single crochet

inc — increase: work two single crochets into the same stitch

dec — invisible decrease: insert hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert hook into the front loop only of the stitch after that, yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and pull through the two remaining loops. This creates a nearly invisible decrease.

BLO — back loop only

FLO — front loop only

st(s) — stitch(es)

All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you work.

Pattern Notes

Amigurumi pieces are worked in a continuous spiral, which means you do not join at the end of each round or turn your work. This creates a seamless, smooth fabric that is ideal for stuffed figures.

Count your stitches at the end of every single round. One missed increase or decrease throws off the entire shape. Getting into the habit of counting takes a moment but saves a great deal of frustration later.

Stuff the body as you go once you reach the decrease rounds. It is much easier to add fiberfill through the narrowing opening as you work than to try to stuff a nearly closed piece at the end.

Leave long tails (at least six inches) when you finish each piece so you have enough yarn to sew the components together securely.

The Pattern

Body

The body is crocheted from the bottom up, starting with a flat oval base and then building up the sides.

Round 1: Start with a MR, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull ring closed. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)

Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)

Round 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)

Rounds 8–14: Sc in each st around (7 rounds even, no increases or decreases). (42 sts)

Round 15: Sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)

Round 16: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)

At this point, begin stuffing the body firmly through the opening. Continue adding stuffing as you complete the remaining rounds.

Round 17: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 18: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 19: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)

Round 20: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in the end securely.

Head

The head is a simple sphere, slightly smaller than the body.

Round 1: MR, work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)

Rounds 6–9: Sc in each st around (4 rounds even). (30 sts)

Before you begin the decrease rounds for the head, this is the moment to insert and secure the safety eyes. Position them between rounds 6 and 7, spaced about 8 stitches apart. The spacing will look wider than you expect on the flat piece — that is correct. Once stuffed and three-dimensional, the eyes will look perfectly placed. Push the post of each eye through the fabric from the right side and attach the washer firmly on the inside. Once a safety eye washer is locked in place, it cannot be removed without destroying the fabric, so take a moment to double-check placement before snapping it in.

Round 10: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 11: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly now.

Round 12: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)

Round 13: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Close the opening the same way as the body, weaving the tail through the front loops and pulling tight.

Wings (Make Two)

The wings are simple flat ovals that give the hen her characteristic silhouette.

Round 1: MR, work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)

Rounds 4–6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Round 7: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)

Do not stuff the wings. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the wing with your fingers — the decreases will naturally curve the piece into a pleasing wing shape.

Comb

The comb sits on top of the head and is worked in your red (or contrasting) yarn.

Foundation chain: Ch 10.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, work the following along the chain: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc. Do not turn.

Working back along the other side of the foundation chain: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc.

Sl st to join into a rounded comb shape. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The comb does not need to be stuffed — the yarn thickness gives it enough body.

Wattle

The wattle is the small red piece that hangs beneath the beak.

Round 1: MR, work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff.

Beak

Work the beak in yellow or orange yarn.

Round 1: MR, work 4 sc into the ring. (4 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (8 sts)

Round 3: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff with a small pinch of fiberfill so the beak holds its shape.

Assembly

This is the most satisfying part of making amigurumi — watching all the separate pieces come together into a complete little creature. Use pins generously to position everything before committing to any sewing.

Attaching the head to the body: Position the head on top of the body with the eyes facing forward. The flat bottom of the head should sit flush against the top of the body. Pin in place. Using the long tail from the head and a yarn needle, sew the head to the body using a whip stitch, working around the entire perimeter. Make sure the seam is tight and no stuffing can escape. Weave in the ends inside the body.

Attaching the wings: Hold each wing against the side of the body to find the position you like. Typically the wings look best when their top edge aligns with about round 10 of the body. Pin both wings in place before sewing either one — this lets you check that they are symmetrical. Sew each wing down along its straight inner edge using a whip stitch. The curved edge of the wing should remain free and slightly lifted, which gives the hen a lifelike, dimensional look.

Attaching the beak: Position the beak on the front of the head, centered horizontally between the eyes and slightly below them — roughly between rounds 8 and 9. Pin and sew down using a whip stitch. Because the beak is small, take several passes around the edge to make sure it is very secure.

Attaching the wattle: The wattle hangs just below the beak. Pin it so its top edge overlaps slightly with the bottom of the beak, which creates a natural connection between the two. Sew down securely.

Attaching the comb: The comb sits on top of the head, running front to back along the center line of the head. Pin it in place with the tallest part of the comb (the double crochets) toward the back. Sew down along the base of the comb using small, tight stitches.

Once all pieces are attached, go back over every seam and tug gently to test for security. Weave in any remaining yarn ends, tucking them deep into the body through the seam so they are completely hidden.

Customization Ideas

One of the great joys of making amigurumi is how endlessly customizable each pattern becomes. Here are some ideas to make your hen uniquely yours.

Color: Traditional chickens come in white, red, black, buff (golden tan), and speckled patterns. Try a white body with a red comb for a classic look, or go bold with a deep charcoal body and bright yellow details. A variegated chunky yarn creates a beautifully mottled feather effect without any extra effort.

Size: Holding two strands of worsted weight yarn together while using a 5.5mm hook creates a similar gauge to bulky yarn, but gives you access to a wider range of colors. Alternatively, using a true super bulky weight with a 6.0mm or 6.5mm hook produces an even larger, more oversized hen that becomes a statement piece.

Embellishments: A small crocheted egg nestled beside your hen is a charming addition. Use the same technique as the head but stop after round 4 for a mini egg. Tuck it under one wing for extra whimsy.

Eyes: Embroidered eyes using black yarn give a more folk-art, handcrafted look if you prefer to avoid safety eyes entirely. Simply embroider two small circles or ovals using a satin stitch.

Tips for a Beautiful Finished Hen

The single most important factor in a great-looking amigurumi is tension. Your fabric should be firm enough that you cannot see any gaps or stuffing through the stitches. If your piece looks loose or you can see white stuffing peeking through, try going down half a hook size.

Stuff your pieces more firmly than you think necessary. Amigurumi looks best when stuffed to a tight, round firmness. Underfilled figures look sad and deflated. A well-stuffed hen has a satisfyingly plump belly and holds her shape over years of use.

Take your time on assembly. The sewing stage is what separates a polished, professional-looking amigurumi from one that looks slightly off. Even half an hour of careful positioning and pinning makes an enormous difference.

If you are giving your hen as a gift, consider adding a small card noting the yarn and materials used — especially helpful if the recipient has allergies or wants to make their own.

Caring for Your Amigurumi Hen

Most bulky acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle, cool cycle, which makes these hens practical as well as pretty. Always check the label on your specific yarn for washing instructions. If the yarn is wool or a wool blend, hand washing in cool water with a gentle wool wash is safest. Lay flat to dry to help the hen keep her shape. Safety eyes are completely washable, but very high heat in a dryer can damage or warp them, so air drying is always the safer option.

A Few Words About Amigurumi as a Craft

There is a reason that amigurumi has become one of the most widely practiced forms of crochet worldwide. The projects are small enough to be portable and completable, the techniques are accessible even to beginners, and the results are objects of genuine charm and personality. A crocheted hen amigurumi is not