Crochet Bear With Overalls Amigurumi Free Pattern
There is something timeless about a handmade stuffed animal. Whether you are creating it for a baby shower gift, a birthday present for a little one, or simply because you love the craft, a crocheted amigurumi bear carries a warmth that no store-bought toy can replicate. This adorable crochet bear with overalls is one of those projects that looks impressive but is completely achievable even if you are still building your skills. The overalls give it a charming, rustic character that makes it stand out from the typical round amigurumi bear, and once you learn the basic construction, you will find yourself making an entire wardrobe of variations.
This free pattern walks you through every step, from the materials you will need to the finishing touches that bring your little bear to life. Whether you are a seasoned amigurumi maker or someone who just finished their first magic ring, this guide is written to be as clear and detailed as possible. Grab your hook, your favorite yarn, and let’s get started.
What You Will Need
Before you begin, gather all of your materials. Having everything on hand before you start will keep the process smooth and enjoyable.
Yarn: You will need two colors for this project. Choose a main color for the bear’s body, head, arms, legs, and ears, and a contrasting color for the overalls. Worsted weight yarn works beautifully for amigurumi bears because it creates a firm fabric that holds its shape well and is easy to stuff. Cotton or acrylic yarn both work, though acrylic is typically softer and easier to find in a wide range of colors. For the bear’s body, warm browns, tans, and creams are classic choices. For the overalls, denim blue, forest green, mustard yellow, and brick red all look charming.
Crochet Hook: A 3.5mm hook (size E/4 in US sizing) is ideal for worsted weight yarn when making amigurumi. You want to go down a size or two from what the yarn label recommends to create a tightly woven fabric that will hold the stuffing inside without it showing through the gaps.
Safety Eyes: You will need two 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes. These give your bear a polished, professional look. Always use safety eyes if the finished toy is for a child old enough to understand they are not food, but if you are making this bear for a very young baby, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead.
Polyfill Stuffing: Standard polyester fiberfill stuffing is perfect. Have more than you think you will need, because good, firm stuffing is what gives amigurumi bears their satisfying roundness.
Yarn Needle: You will use this to sew the pieces together, weave in ends, and embroider any details.
Stitch Markers: These are essential for keeping track of your rounds, especially when you are working in continuous rounds, which is the standard amigurumi method.
Scissors: A small, sharp pair.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic Ring
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook through the front loops of two consecutive stitches, then complete a single crochet)
st(s) — stitch(es)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
[x] x — repeat the instructions in brackets the number of times indicated
All rounds are worked in continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of rounds unless the pattern specifically instructs you to.
Pattern Instructions
The Head
Start with your main bear color.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6 sts)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)
Round 5: [sc 3, inc] x6 (30 sts)
Round 6: [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts)
Round 7: [sc 5, inc] x6 (42 sts)
Rounds 8–14: sc in each st around (42 sts) — 7 rounds
Round 15: [sc 5, dec] x6 (36 sts)
Round 16: [sc 4, dec] x6 (30 sts)
Now is the time to insert your safety eyes. Position them between rounds 10 and 11, with about 8 to 10 stitches of space between them. Once they are clicked into place, they cannot be removed without cutting, so take a moment to confirm the placement looks right before securing them.
Round 17: [sc 3, dec] x6 (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly. Continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds so the head stays round and full.
Round 18: [sc 2, dec] x6 (18 sts)
Round 19: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)
Round 20: dec x6 (6 sts)
Close the opening by sewing through the front loops of the remaining stitches. Fasten off and leave a long tail for attaching the head to the body later.
The Muzzle
The muzzle gives the bear its sweet, expressive face.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Rounds 4–5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the muzzle lightly — just enough to give it a gentle puffiness without making it look swollen. Center it below the eyes and sew it onto the head. Once it is attached, use black yarn to embroider a small nose at the top center and a simple smile below it. A classic Y-shape embroidery works well: one vertical stitch for the center of the nose and two diagonal stitches coming down from it to form the smile.
The Ears (Make 2)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Rounds 4–5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Fasten off and leave a long tail. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten them and sew them onto the top of the head, positioning them so they sit at roughly the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions if you imagine the head as a clock face. Sewing through both layers of the flattened ear creates a neat, flat appearance.
The Body
Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 2, inc] x6 (18 sts) — wait, let’s use the correct progression
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)
Round 5: [sc 3, inc] x6 (30 sts)
Round 6: [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts)
Rounds 7–14: sc in each st around (36 sts) — 8 rounds
Round 15: [sc 4, dec] x6 (30 sts)
Round 16: sc in each st around (30 sts)
Round 17: [sc 3, dec] x6 (24 sts)
Round 18: sc in each st around (24 sts)
Round 19: [sc 2, dec] x6 (18 sts)
Stuff the body firmly at this stage. The body should feel solid and hold its shape when squeezed.
Round 20: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)
Round 21: dec x6 (6 sts)
Close the opening. Fasten off and leave a long tail. Set the body aside.
The Arms (Make 2)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
Rounds 3–10: sc in each st around (12 sts) — 8 rounds
Round 11: [sc 1, dec] x4 (8 sts)
Stuff lightly. You want the arms to have a gentle squish to them but still be poseable enough to hang naturally at the bear’s sides.
Round 12: dec x4 (4 sts)
Close, fasten off, and leave a long tail for sewing.
The Legs (Make 2)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Rounds 4–6: sc in each st around (18 sts) — this forms the foot
Round 7: [sc 1, dec] x6 (12 sts)
Rounds 8–14: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Stuff the leg firmly. The legs need to be well-stuffed to support the body when the bear is sitting.
Round 15: dec x6 (6 sts)
Close, fasten off, and leave a long tail for sewing.
The Overalls
The overalls are what make this pattern truly special. They are worked as two separate leg tubes that join at the waist into a bib overall shape, which gives the bear an irresistible storybook quality.
Overall Legs (Make 2): Switch to your contrasting overall color.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6 sts)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18 sts)
Rounds 4–10: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Fasten off the first leg but do not cut the yarn on the second. You will use the second leg as your starting point to join both pieces together.
Joining the Legs:
Hold the first leg up to the hook of your working yarn on the second leg and sc 18 around the first leg, then sc 18 around the second leg. You now have a continuous round of 36 stitches. Place a stitch marker.
Rounds 1–6: sc in each st around (36 sts)
This forms the waist of the overalls.
Creating the Bib:
Row 1: sc 10, ch 1, turn
Rows 2–6: sc 10, ch 1, turn
Fasten off. This small rectangle is the front bib of the overalls. Make two small straps by chaining 15, fastening off, and weaving in the end. Sew one strap to each top corner of the bib, bring them up and over the bear’s shoulders, and attach them to the back of the waistband. Add a tiny button stitch or a small sewn button if you have one for an extra detail that will really make people smile.
Assembly
Assembling your amigurumi bear is the most satisfying part of the whole project. Take your time and use plenty of straight pins to position each piece before committing to sewing.
Begin by attaching the head to the body. Use the long tail from the head’s closing round and your yarn needle to sew through both pieces with a whipstitch, working all the way around the neck join. Pull the yarn tight as you go to keep the seam secure. The head should feel stable and not wobble once it is attached.
Next, position the legs at the base of the body. They should sit just forward of center on either side so that the bear appears to be seated in a natural, rounded posture. Sew them on firmly.
Then attach the arms to the upper sides of the body, just below where the neck meets the shoulders. If you angle them slightly downward and forward, the bear will look like it is reaching out for a hug.
Sew the ears onto the head if you have not already, then give the face one final check. If you want, you can use a small amount of pink or rosy yarn or fabric chalk to add a blush to the cheeks, just a tiny circular motion with a slightly fuzzy yarn or a dab of cosmetic blush for an endearing, rosy look.
Finally, slip the overalls onto the bear, adjust the straps over the shoulders, and attach them at the back.
Tips for a Beautiful Finished Bear
A few small adjustments can make a big difference in how polished your finished amigurumi looks.
Tension matters enormously in amigurumi. If your stitches are too loose, the stuffing will show through and the bear will look lumpy. If you find that your gauge is creating visible gaps, go down another hook size. The fabric should feel dense and firm when you hold it up to the light.
Always stuff as you go rather than waiting until the end. It is nearly impossible to get even, firm stuffing into a piece once the opening is very small. Stuff a little, crochet a little, and you will have a much better result.
When sewing pieces together, use the same yarn you used to crochet the pieces. This way, any imperfect stitches will blend right in rather than standing out as a different color or texture.
Weave in your ends very thoroughly. Amigurumi toys get handled more than almost any other crocheted object, and a loose end that works its way free can be a safety concern as well as an aesthetic one.
Sizing and Customization
The finished bear made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook will stand approximately 7 to 8 inches tall when assembled in a seated position. If you want a larger bear, try bulky weight yarn with a 5mm or 5.5mm hook, which will give you a bear that stands closer to 10 to 12 inches. For a miniature bear, fingering weight yarn with a 2mm hook creates a tiny, detailed version that makes an adorable keychain or ornament.
The overalls can be easily customized. Add a small pocket to the front bib with a few stitches of a third color. Embroider a small heart, flower, or initial onto the bib for a personalized touch. You can also skip the straps and make a simpler pair of shorts or a skirt instead if you want a different look.
Bear colors are endlessly fun to play with. A white bear in pale blue overalls feels wintery and elegant. A dark chocolate brown bear in red overalls has a classic holiday feel. A cream-colored bear in lavender overalls makes a lovely spring or Easter gift. Mix and match to suit the personality of whoever you are making it for.
Caring for Your Amigurumi Bear
Because most of the yarn used for this pattern is acrylic, the finished bear is typically machine washable on a gentle cycle in cold water. Place it inside a pillowcase or mesh laundry bag to protect it during washing. Reshape it while it is still damp and allow it to air dry completely before giving it to a child. Avoid putting it in a hot dryer, as this can cause the polyfill stuffing to clump and the yarn to lose its softness.
If you used cotton yarn, handwashing is recommended to preserve the shape and texture over time.
Sharing Your Make
Once your bear is finished, please share it! The amigurumi community is one of the most warm and encouraging corners of the crafting world. Tag your photos on Instagram and Pinterest with #amigurumibar and #crochetbear so other makers can find your work and celebrate it with you. If you run a craft blog or Etsy shop, bears made from free patterns can generally be sold as finished objects as long as you credit the pattern designer and do not reproduce the written pattern itself for resale.
Making a crochet bear with overalls is one of those projects that never gets old. Each one you make will have its own little personality, depending on the colors you choose, the expression you embroider, and the small variations that come naturally with handmade work. That is the magic of amigurumi — no two are ever exactly the same, and that is exactly the point. Happy crocheting
