Crochet Bear – Bax | Free Pattern | Chai Coffee Crochet

There is something undeniably magical about a handmade stuffed animal. Unlike a toy pulled from a store shelf, a crocheted bear carries the warmth of the hands that made it, the patience stitched into every row, and a kind of personality that seems to emerge all on its own by the time you fasten off the last piece. Bax is exactly that kind of bear. Sweet, sturdy, and just the right amount of chubby, Bax has become one of the most beloved free patterns from Chai Coffee Crochet — and for good reason. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a satisfying weekend project or a confident beginner ready to tackle your first amigurumi, this pattern is designed to be both approachable and rewarding.

In this post, you will find everything you need to make your very own Bax the crochet bear, including a full free pattern, tips on materials, advice on assembly, and plenty of guidance along the way. Grab your hook, settle in with your favorite warm drink, and let’s get started.

Who Is Bax?

Bax is a round, cuddly amigurumi bear with a soft, classic look. He has a plump body, rounded ears, a simple embroidered face, and the kind of expression that makes him look like he is perpetually content — which, honestly, is a mood we could all aspire to. His design is intentionally simple in silhouette but satisfying in detail. The magic of Bax is in how all the pieces come together: the slight roundness of his tummy, the way his ears sit just so on his head, the tiny nose that somehow gives him so much character.

Bax works beautifully in a wide range of yarns and colors. Classic bear browns and tans are always charming, but Bax also looks stunning in soft dusty pinks, warm creams, slate blues, sage greens, or even deep burgundy if you want a more dramatic look. He is endlessly customizable, which is part of why so many people have made multiple versions of him.

Materials You Will Need

Before diving into the pattern, let’s talk about what you will need to gather. One of the great joys of amigurumi is that these projects use relatively small amounts of yarn, meaning this is also a wonderful way to use up worsted or DK weight scraps from your stash.

Yarn: The recommended yarn weight for Bax is worsted weight (Category 4), though you can use DK weight (Category 3) for a slightly smaller bear. Almost any brand will work. Some favorites in the Chai Coffee Crochet community include Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, Paintbox Simply DK, Drops Safran, and Paintbox Simply Aran. You will primarily need one main color for the body, head, and limbs, and a small amount of a slightly darker or contrasting color for the muzzle if you choose to make it separate. You can also embroider the nose and muzzle area directly onto the head in a single color.

Hook: A 3.5mm hook is the standard recommendation for worsted weight yarn when working amigurumi. Going down a hook size from what the yarn band suggests gives you a tighter stitch tension, which keeps the stuffing from showing through and results in a firmer, more defined shape. If you are working with DK weight, a 3.0mm or 3.25mm hook is a good choice.

Other supplies:

• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Two 9mm or 12mm safety eyes (black works beautifully for a classic look, but brown or even blue can be lovely)
• Black embroidery floss or black yarn for the nose
• Yarn needle (also called a tapestry needle or darning needle)
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

If you are making Bax for a baby or a very young child, please skip the safety eyes and embroider both the eyes and nose entirely in black embroidery floss or yarn. This removes any small part that could be a choking hazard.

Skill Level and Techniques Used

Bax is considered a beginner-friendly to intermediate amigurumi pattern. You should be comfortable with the following techniques before starting:

Magic ring (also called magic circle): Almost every piece starts with a magic ring, which allows you to close the center of your circle completely without leaving a hole.

Single crochet (sc): The entire pattern is worked in single crochet. No fancy stitches, no complex clusters — just clean, even single crochets worked in the round.

Increases (inc): Working two single crochets into the same stitch to widen your circle.

Decreases (dec): The invisible decrease is strongly recommended here. This technique decreases by pulling through the front loops of two consecutive stitches before completing the stitch, which creates a much neater finish than a standard decrease.

Working in continuous rounds: Amigurumi is typically worked in a spiral rather than joined rounds, so your stitch marker is essential for tracking the beginning of each round.

Closing and joining pieces: You will sew the arms, legs, ears, and head onto the body using your yarn needle and the long yarn tails left when you fasten off.

Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used:

• MR – magic ring
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
• dec – invisible decrease
• sl st – slip stitch
• ch – chain
• FO – fasten off
• BLO – back loop only
• ( ) – work the instructions inside the parentheses into the same stitch
• [ ] x times – repeat the instructions inside the brackets the indicated number of times

The Pattern: Crochet Bear Bax

Head

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6 (18)
Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x 6 (24)
Round 5: [sc 3, inc] x 6 (30)
Round 6: [sc 4, inc] x 6 (36)
Round 7: [sc 5, inc] x 6 (42)
Round 8: [sc 6, inc] x 6 (48)
Rounds 9–16: sc in each st around (48) — 8 rounds even
Round 17: [sc 6, dec] x 6 (42)
Round 18: [sc 5, dec] x 6 (36)

This is the point where you will insert your safety eyes. Place them between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 10 to 12 stitches apart depending on your personal preference. Take your time here — eye placement has an enormous impact on the final expression of your bear. Moving them closer together gives a softer, more innocent look. Spreading them a little further apart creates a slightly more open, classic teddy bear face.

Round 19: [sc 4, dec] x 6 (30)
Round 20: [sc 3, dec] x 6 (24)

Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point. Continue stuffing as you close.

Round 21: [sc 2, dec] x 6 (18)
Round 22: [sc 1, dec] x 6 (12)
Round 23: dec x 6 (6)

FO, leaving a long tail. Thread onto your yarn needle and weave through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches to close the hole. Pull tight and weave in the end.

Muzzle (optional but recommended)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6 (18)
Round 4: sc in each st around (18)

FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly before sewing onto the face, or leave unstuffed for a flatter muzzle — both work nicely. Position it centered below and between the eyes, and sew it on neatly all the way around. Once attached, embroider your nose using black embroidery floss or yarn. A simple Y-shape or upside-down triangle creates an adorable nose. You can also add a small upturned mouth if you like.

Body

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6 (18)
Round 4: [sc 2, inc] x 6 (24)
Round 5: [sc 3, inc] x 6 (30)
Round 6: [sc 4, inc] x 6 (36)
Round 7: [sc 5, inc] x 6 (42)
Rounds 8–10: sc in each st around (42) — 3 rounds even
Round 11: [sc 5, dec] x 6 (36)
Rounds 12–14: sc in each st around (36) — 3 rounds even
Round 15: [sc 4, dec] x 6 (30)
Rounds 16–18: sc in each st around (30) — 3 rounds even
Round 19: [sc 3, dec] x 6 (24)
Round 20: sc in each st around (24)

Begin stuffing the body. Keep stuffing as you close.

Round 21: [sc 2, dec] x 6 (18)
Round 22: [sc 1, dec] x 6 (12)
Round 23: dec x 6 (6)

FO, leaving a long tail. Close as you did for the head.

Arms (make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6 (18)
Rounds 4–6: sc in each st around (18) — 3 rounds even
Round 7: [sc 1, dec] x 6 (12)
Rounds 8–14: sc in each st around (12) — 7 rounds even

Stuff lightly — you want the arms to be somewhat floppy and poseable rather than stiff. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the opening and sew closed before attaching to the body.

Legs (make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6 (18)
Rounds 4–6: sc in each st around (18) — 3 rounds even
Round 7: [sc 1, dec] x 6 (12)
Rounds 8–16: sc in each st around (12) — 9 rounds even

Stuff the foot area firmly and the leg portion lightly. FO, leaving a long tail. Flatten and sew closed.

Ears (make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12)
Round 3: [sc 1, inc] x 6 (18)
Round 4: sc in each st around (18)

FO, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten them and sew them onto the top of the head. Ear placement is another area that dramatically changes the look of your bear. Positioning the ears a little further back on the head gives a rounder, more babyish look. Closer to the top of the head creates a more classic teddy bear appearance. Have fun experimenting.

Assembly

Assembly is where Bax truly comes to life, and it is worth taking your time with this stage. A bear that is carefully assembled will look polished and professional. One that is rushed may have pieces that sag or sit unevenly.

Start by attaching the head to the body. Use the long tail from the head and a yarn needle to sew around the base of the head, working into stitches on both the head and the body. Go around twice to make the join really secure, especially if Bax will be played with by a child. The head should sit centered and upright.

Next, attach the legs to the bottom of the body, one on each side. Position them so that Bax can sit upright with a little forward lean — this is part of what gives amigurumi bears their characteristic seated pose. Sew through the flattened tops of the legs and into the body stitches, again going around at least twice.

Attach the arms on either side of the body, roughly at shoulder level. Sewing the arms on with a button-joint method (using a long needle threaded through both the arm and body) allows them to move, which adds a wonderful interactive quality to the finished toy. However, simple sewn-on arms work beautifully too.

Finally, position the ears on top of the head, fold them ever so slightly inward at the base, and sew them on securely.

Face Embroidery Tips

The face is the soul of your bear, and a little extra attention here makes a big difference. Use a length of black embroidery floss (about 60cm) and a fine needle to create the nose. An upside-down triangle of about 4–5 stitches wide and 3 stitches tall is a classic amigurumi nose shape. From the bottom point of the triangle, you can stitch downward and then split to create a small smile, or leave it as just the nose for a more neutral expression.

If you did not use a separate muzzle piece, draw the muzzle lightly on the face with a fabric marker to plan your placement before you begin stitching.

Customizing Bax

One of the most delightful aspects of making amigurumi is how much personality you can inject through small choices. Bax looks wonderful with a little bowtie sewn at his neck, made from a small crocheted rectangle gathered in the middle. A tiny crochet sweater or vest is another beautiful option if you want to go a step further. You can also give Bax contrasting color paws by switching yarn color partway through the arm or leg, or add inner ear details using a contrasting color sewn or crocheted onto the flat of the ear before attaching.

Some makers have added blush to Bax’s cheeks using a small amount of pink eye shadow or chalk pastel brushed on with a makeup brush. This creates an incredibly sweet, rosy effect that photographs beautifully.

Finishing and Care

Once Bax is fully assembled, weave in any remaining yarn tails carefully. Run your fingers over the seams to make sure everything is secure. If you notice any gaps in your stitching, use a yarn needle and a short length of matching yarn to close them.

For care, hand washing is recommended for all amigurumi. Use cool water and a gentle soap, squeeze gently (do not wring), and reshape while damp. Lay flat to dry. Avoid putting amigurumi in a machine dryer, as the heat can warp the shape and melt the safety eyes.

A Few Words on Gauge

Gauge matters in amigurumi more than people sometimes expect — not because the finished size needs to be exact, but because your tension determines how tight your fabric is. A looser tension means gaps between stitches through which the stuffing can peek, which takes away from the clean finish. If you find your stitches are quite open, try going down half a hook size. If your hands are cramping from working too tightly, go up a half size. There is no wrong answer as long as the fabric feels firm and even when held up to the light.

Pattern Notes and Final Thoughts

Bax has been made by so many members of the Chai Coffee Crochet community in so many beautiful color combinations that it is genuinely heartwarming to see how the same pattern can produce such varied and personal results. A dusty lavender Bax looks completely different from a warm honey-brown one, yet they are both unmistakably Bax — which says something beautiful about how a well-designed pattern holds its character across a wide range of interpretations.

If you make Bax, please share your finished bear. Tag your photos so the community can admire your work, ask questions, and celebrate your finished make together. Seeing your versions is one of the greatest joys of sharing a free pattern, and every single photo of a finished Bax is a small reminder of why we love this craft.

Happy crocheting. May your yarn never tangle, your tension stay even, and your finished Bax bring someone a great deal of joy — whether that someone