Crochet Bat Amigurumi Free Pattern – Make This Cute Gray Bat

If you’re looking for a fun and beginner-friendly amigurumi project that works for Halloween décor, a gift for a bat lover, or simply a soft and squishable desk companion, this free crochet bat amigurumi pattern is exactly what you need. This little gray bat is worked mostly in the round with basic stitches, making it accessible even if you’re relatively new to amigurumi. The finished bat has a round, pudgy body, floppy wings, little pointed ears, and a sweet embroidered face that gives it maximum charm without maximum complexity.

By the end of this post, you’ll have everything you need — materials, abbreviations, gauge notes, and the full step-by-step pattern — to make your own adorable bat. Let’s dive in.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Bats often get a bad reputation, but honestly? In yarn form, they are absolutely irresistible. This amigurumi bat sits at about 5 to 6 inches tall when finished, which makes it the perfect size to display on a shelf, hang from a bookcase, tuck into a Halloween basket, or give as a handmade gift. It crochets up quickly — most people can finish it in an evening or a weekend — and because it uses only a small amount of yarn, it’s a great stash-busting project.

This pattern is also versatile. You can make it in classic gray for a realistic bat look, switch to black for something a little more spooky, or go wild with purple, teal, or even pink for a whimsical take. The construction is straightforward: the body is worked in continuous rounds, the wings are flat pieces sewn on at the end, and the ears are tiny little pieces that come together in just a few rows.

Whether you’re making a whole colony of bats to hang above your mantel or just one to sit on your desk all year round, this pattern delivers big on cuteness with a surprisingly manageable level of effort.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather your supplies. Here’s what you’ll need to make this crochet bat amigurumi.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in medium gray (approximately 50–75 yards for the body and ears), dark gray or charcoal for the wings (approximately 30–40 yards), and a small amount of black for the eyes or embroidery. You can substitute any colors you like. Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, Red Heart Soft, or Paintbox Simply DK work beautifully for this project.

Hook: Size 3.5mm (E/4) crochet hook. Using a hook slightly smaller than the yarn label suggests creates a tighter fabric that holds your stuffing in without gaps.

Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill, enough to stuff the body firmly.

Safety eyes: Two 9mm black safety eyes. If you’re making this bat for a child under three, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead of using safety eyes.

Yarn needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.

Stitch markers: Helpful for keeping track of the beginning of each round.

Scissors: A good sharp pair for clean cuts.

Optional: A tiny bit of pink yarn or embroidery floss for the nose, and white yarn if you’d like to add little embroidered fangs.

Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US crochet abbreviations.

MR — Magic ring

ch — Chain

sl st — Slip stitch

sc — Single crochet

inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)

dec — Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook through the front loops of the next two stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining loops)

BLO — Back loop only

FLO — Front loop only

st(s) — Stitch(es)

rnd — Round

rep — Repeat

[x] — Number of stitches at the end of the round

Gauge and Sizing

Gauge for amigurumi is flexible, but working to a tighter tension than usual is important so your stuffing doesn’t show through the gaps. With a 3.5mm hook and worsted weight yarn, you should get approximately 4.5 single crochets and 5 rounds per inch.

The finished bat measures approximately 5 to 6 inches tall from the bottom of the body to the tips of the ears, and about 9 to 10 inches wide from wingtip to wingtip once the wings are sewn on.

Pattern Notes

Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch or chain unless the pattern specifically tells you to. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.

When you decrease, use the invisible decrease method (working into the front loops only of the next two stitches) for a neater, less gap-prone finish. This makes a noticeable difference in how polished your amigurumi looks, especially around the closing at the top of the head.

The wings are worked flat and then sewn onto the sides of the body. Make sure to leave a long tail when you finish the wings so you have plenty of yarn to sew them in place securely.

Stuff the body firmly as you go — once you get past the halfway point of closing up the head, it becomes harder to add stuffing.

The Pattern

Body and Head

The body and head are worked as one continuous piece, starting at the bottom of the body and working up through the head.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tight to close. [6]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12]

Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. [18]

Round 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. [24]

Round 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. [30]

Round 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. [36]

Rounds 7–12: Sc in each st around (6 rounds even). [36]

Round 13: Sc 4, dec repeat around. [30]

Round 14: Sc 3, dec repeat around. [24]

At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, with about 6 to 8 stitches of space between them. If you’re embroidering the eyes, you can add them at the end. Begin stuffing the body firmly.

Round 15: Sc 2, dec repeat around. [18]

Round 16: Sc 1, dec repeat around. [12]

Continue stuffing. Make sure the body is firm but not so overstuffed that it distorts the shape.

Round 17: Dec repeat around. [6]

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by running the yarn through the front loops of all 6 remaining stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end securely.

Ears (Make Two)

Work in gray yarn, the same color as the body.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 4 sc into the ring. [4]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [8]

Round 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. [12]

Round 4: Sc in each st around. [12]

Round 5: Sc 1, dec repeat around. [8]

Do not stuff. Flatten the ear slightly and slip stitch the opening closed, or simply leave it and sew it flat onto the head. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew the ears onto the top of the head, positioning them about 4 to 5 stitches apart from each other. They should sit a little toward the back of the top of the head rather than right at the very crown, which gives the bat that characteristic alert, perky look. Sew them down securely, going through several stitches of both the ear and the head.

Wings (Make Two)

Switch to dark gray or charcoal yarn for the wings. These are worked flat and have a slightly irregular shape to mimic the draped, leathery look of real bat wings.

Foundation chain: Ch 16.

Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, sc 15 across. Ch 1, turn. [15]

Row 2: Dec, sc 11, dec. Ch 1, turn. [13]

Row 3: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. [13]

Row 4: Dec, sc 9, dec. Ch 1, turn. [11]

Row 5: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. [11]

Row 6: Dec, sc 7, dec. Ch 1, turn. [9]

Row 7: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. [9]

Row 8: Dec, sc 5, dec. Ch 1, turn. [7]

Row 9: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. [7]

Row 10: Dec, sc 3, dec. Ch 1, turn. [5]

Row 11: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. [5]

Row 12: Dec, sc 1, dec. Ch 1, turn. [3]

Row 13: Sc 3. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Now work a single crochet border around the entire wing for a cleaner edge. Starting at any corner, work sc evenly all the way around the wing, working 3 sc into each corner to help the edge lie flat. When you reach the beginning, slip stitch to join. Fasten off and weave in the starting end, leaving the long tail for sewing.

If you’d like wings with a little more texture and a scalloped edge — which looks fantastic and very batlike — work the border like this: sc 1, skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 and repeat around. This creates a scalloped, membrane-like edge that looks incredible on the finished bat.

Assembling Your Bat

This is where the magic happens and your flat pieces start looking like an actual bat.

Start by positioning the wings. Hold one wing against the side of the body, with the longest edge running vertically along the body from roughly round 4 at the bottom to round 11 near the top of the head. The wing should fan out to the side. Use pins or stitch markers to hold it in place before sewing.

Using the long yarn tail and your yarn needle, sew the wing to the body using a whipstitch along that long edge. Go through both the wing and the body stitches, pulling firmly but not so tight that you pucker the body. Work from the bottom of the wing to the top, making sure the wing is securely attached at multiple points. Repeat with the second wing on the other side.

Once both wings are sewn on, step back and look at your bat from the front. Adjust if needed — the wings should look symmetrical and should fan out naturally to either side of the body.

If you haven’t added the eyes yet and are embroidering them, now is the time. Use black yarn or embroidery floss to create two small circles or French knots between rounds 10 and 11, about 6 stitches apart. You can also add a small pink or red nose between the eyes, slightly lower, using a few satin stitches.

For the classic bat look, add small white embroidered fangs just below where you’d place the mouth. These are just two tiny straight stitches in a slight V shape and they make the entire bat look infinitely more adorable.

Tips for the Best Results

Tension is everything in amigurumi. If your stitches are too loose, the stuffing will show through and your finished bat won’t look as crisp. If you find this happening, try going down a hook size.

Don’t skip the magic ring — it makes a much cleaner, tighter start than a chain ring and is worth learning if you haven’t already. There are great video tutorials online if the concept is new to you.

When sewing on the wings, take your time. Rushing the assembly is the most common reason amigurumi pieces look uneven. Pinning first, stepping back to check symmetry, and sewing slowly will make a significant difference.

If you want your bat to hang rather than sit upright, attach a small loop of yarn or ribbon to the back between the wings before you finish assembling. This turns it into a great ornament or mobile piece.

Ways to Customize Your Bat

One of the most fun things about amigurumi is how much room there is to personalize. Here are a few ideas for making your bat truly your own.

You can use glow-in-the-dark yarn for a genuinely spooky Halloween version that glows when the lights go out. You can make a whole family of bats in graduating sizes by going up or down in yarn weight. A chunky yarn version would work up in a fraction of the time and produce a wonderfully oversized, huggable bat.

Adding a little bow between the ears — made from a scrap of ribbon or crocheted from a contrasting color — instantly transforms the bat into an unmistakably feminine character. A tiny top hat, crocheted and perched on the head, makes for a wonderfully dapper bat. These small details take just a few extra minutes but make the finished piece feel very intentional and special.

You can also change the face expression entirely. Moving the eyes closer together gives the bat a more intense look. Adding a wide crescent-mouth smile in the same color as the yarn gives a sleepy, contented expression. Embroidering tiny eyelashes adds an elegant feminine touch.

Finishing and Care

Weave in all remaining ends securely. For amigurumi, it’s worth weaving the ends in at least twice — once in one direction and once back the other way — to make sure nothing unravels.

This bat can be spot-cleaned with a damp cloth and a little mild soap. If you need to wash it fully, hand washing in cool water and air drying is safest. Avoid putting it in a dryer, as the heat can cause the yarn to pill, the safety eyes to loosen, and the stuffing to clump.

If you’re giving this bat as a gift to a child under three, please remember to embroider all features rather than using safety eyes or any small attachments, as these can pose a choking hazard.

Share Your Makes

If you make this crochet bat amigurumi, it would be wonderful to see your finished creation. Share a photo in a crochet community, tag your project online, or leave a comment on this post. Seeing how other makers put their own spin on a pattern — different colors, different expressions, little added accessories — is one of the most delightful parts of the crochet community.

Happy crocheting, and enjoy your adorable little bat!