Candy Stripe Snake Amigurumi – Colorful Snake Toy Free Pattern

If you’ve been searching for a fun, beginner-friendly amigurumi project that delivers big on color and charm, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. This Candy Stripe Snake Amigurumi pattern is everything a crochet lover could want — bright, whimsical, completely customizable, and surprisingly quick to work up. Whether you’re making it as a gift for a child, a quirky desk companion, or simply to satisfy that creative itch, this little snake is sure to bring a smile to anyone who sees it.

In this post, you’ll find the complete free pattern, a full materials list, helpful tips for beginners, and plenty of ideas for making this snake your own. Let’s get into it.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

There’s something undeniably satisfying about crocheting amigurumi. The projects are small enough to finish in a single sitting, yet detailed enough to feel genuinely rewarding. Snakes are a particularly wonderful choice for amigurumi beginners because they have a simple, elongated body shape with no complicated limb assembly required. You’re essentially crocheting a long tube, changing colors as you go, and adding a handful of cute details at the end.

The candy stripe design takes that simplicity and dresses it up beautifully. By alternating two or more bright colors in regular stripes, you get a toy that looks professionally made and visually striking, even if you’ve only been crocheting for a few months. The finished snake is soft, lightweight, and poseable enough to drape around a child’s shoulders or coil into a playful display piece.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather the following supplies. Most of these are things you likely already have in your craft stash.

Yarn: You’ll need worsted weight yarn (also labeled as #4 medium weight) in at least two colors. For a classic candy stripe look, choose high-contrast colors — think bright red and white, hot pink and yellow, turquoise and coral, or any combination that makes you happy. Plan for approximately 50–80 yards per color depending on how long you want your finished snake to be.

Hook: A 3.5 mm or 4.0 mm crochet hook works beautifully with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. A slightly smaller hook than recommended on your yarn label creates a tighter fabric that helps the stuffing stay inside and keeps the toy looking neat.

Stuffing: Polyfill stuffing, available at any craft store, is the standard choice for amigurumi. Use enough to fill the body firmly but not so much that the seams strain.

Safety eyes: Two 9 mm or 12 mm black safety eyes give the snake its personality. If you’re making this toy for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes instead with black yarn for safety.

Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and closing the tail of the snake.

Scissors: Any sharp pair will do.

Stitch markers: These are optional but incredibly helpful for marking the beginning of each round, especially for beginners.

Red felt or yarn (optional): For embroidering or cutting a forked tongue.

Gauge and Sizing

Gauge isn’t critical for amigurumi the way it is for wearables, but it’s worth checking if you want a specific finished size. With a 4.0 mm hook and worsted weight yarn, you should get approximately 16 stitches and 18 rows per 4 inches in single crochet.

At this gauge, the finished snake will measure approximately 18 to 22 inches long and about 2.5 inches in diameter at its widest point. Want a longer snake? Simply add more rounds of the stripe pattern before beginning the decreases. Want a thicker snake? Increase the starting magic ring count from 6 to 8 stitches and adjust your increases accordingly.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

If you’re new to crochet patterns, here’s a quick reference for the abbreviations used throughout.

MR = magic ring (also called a magic circle)
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (2 single crochet in the same stitch)
dec = invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next two stitches, yarn over, pull through both, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook)
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
BLO = back loop only
st = stitch
rnd = round

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (also called a spiral) unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless specifically instructed. Placing a stitch marker at the beginning of each round helps you keep track of where one round ends and the next begins.

The stripe pattern is created by changing colors every two rounds. To change colors cleanly, make your last stitch of a round in the current color until there are two loops on the hook, then draw through with the new color. Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the work rather than cutting it each time to save yourself a mountain of ends to weave in later.

The pattern is written for a finished snake of approximately 20 inches. Feel free to adjust the length during the body section.

The Free Pattern

Head

Begin with Color A.

Rnd 1: Start with a MR, sc 6 into ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)

Rnds 7–10: Sc in each st around. (36 sts, 4 rounds)

At this point, insert the safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8, approximately 6–8 stitches apart. If you’re embroidering the eyes, you’ll add them later.

Rnd 11: Sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)

Rnd 12: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly now, and continue adding stuffing as you work the body.

Rnd 13: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Switch to Color B on the last stitch of Rnd 14.

Body (Candy Stripe Section)

The body is worked in continuous rounds, alternating colors every 2 rounds to create the stripe effect. The number of stitches remains constant at 18 throughout the body section. Continue stuffing as you go — a little at a time works better than trying to stuff all at once at the end.

Rnds 15–16: With Color B, sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Switch to Color A.

Rnds 17–18: With Color A, sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Switch to Color B.

Continue alternating colors every 2 rounds (Color B for 2 rounds, Color A for 2 rounds) until the body reaches your desired length. For a 20-inch snake, repeat this stripe sequence approximately 12 to 14 times total (about 24–28 additional rounds).

If you want to add a third color, you can rotate through three colors every 2 rounds each — Color B, Color C, Color A — for a more vibrant rainbow effect.

Tail

Continue with whichever color you’re on when you reach the tail section.

Dec rnd 1: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)

Dec rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Dec rnd 3: Sc 2, dec repeat 3 times. (9 sts)

Dec rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (9 sts)

Dec rnd 5: Sc 1, dec repeat 3 times. (6 sts)

Make sure the tail is firmly stuffed before you close it up. Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn. Thread through a yarn needle, run the needle through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull gently to close, and weave in the end securely.

Tongue

The tongue is a simple embellishment that adds so much personality. You can make it from a small piece of red or pink yarn, or cut a tiny forked shape from stiff felt.

Yarn tongue method: Cut a piece of red yarn about 4 inches long. Fold it in half and pull the folded end through the tip of the snake’s head using your crochet hook or yarn needle. Thread both loose ends through a stitch just above, and tie a small overhand knot to secure. Trim the two ends unevenly to suggest a forked tongue.

Felt tongue method: Cut a narrow strip of red felt about 2 inches long and snip a V-shape into one end to create the fork. Use a small dab of fabric glue or a few hand stitches to attach the flat end just below the snake’s snout.

Tips for Getting Great Results

Consistent tension makes a huge difference in amigurumi. If your tension is too loose, stuffing will show through the gaps between stitches and the toy won’t look its best. Try crocheting a little more tightly than usual, or use a hook that’s one size smaller than your yarn label recommends.

Invisible decreases (also called sc2tog through the front loops) create a much smoother surface than standard decreases. Once you get the hang of the motion, you’ll never want to go back to regular decreases in amigurumi work.

Color changes at the same stitch every round will sometimes cause a slight diagonal shift in your stripes. This is totally normal in spiral crochet. If it bothers you, you can use a joining method — slip stitch to join at the end of each round and chain 1 to start the next — though this creates a small visible seam.

Carry your yarn up the inside of the work rather than cutting and reattaching. This saves you a tremendous amount of time and dramatically reduces the number of ends you have to weave in. Just make sure not to carry it too tightly or it will pucker your work.

Stuff as you go. Waiting until the end to stuff a long amigurumi body is genuinely difficult. Add stuffing every few inches as you work and you’ll have a much easier time getting an evenly firm result.

Color Combination Ideas

One of the best things about this pattern is how dramatically different it can look depending on your color choices. Here are some combinations to inspire you.

Classic Candy Stripe: Bright red and white, just like an old-fashioned candy cane. This is a fantastic choice for holiday gifting.

Tropical Parrot Snake: Alternating vibrant turquoise and sunny yellow for a snake that looks like it belongs in a rainforest.

Cotton Candy: Soft baby pink and lavender for a dreamy, pastel version that would be perfect in a nursery.

Rainbow Snake: Use six different colors and change every round instead of every two rounds for a snake that cycles through the whole rainbow from head to tail.

Halloween Snake: Deep purple and bright orange make for a festive autumn snake that works beautifully as seasonal décor.

Team Colors: Pick the colors of your favorite sports team and make a snake that doubles as the world’s most adorable fan accessory.

Earth Tones: Sandy tan and forest green create a more naturalistic snake that appeals to people who love realistic animal toys.

Sizing Variations

Once you understand the basic structure of this pattern, it’s very easy to scale it up or down.

Baby Snake (about 10 inches): Start with a MR of 4 stitches, increase to 16 stitches for the head, work the body for about 12–14 rounds total, and decrease back to close.

Giant Snake (36 inches or longer): Use bulky weight (#6) yarn with a 6.0 mm hook, start with a MR of 8 stitches, increase to 48 stitches for the head, and work the body section for as many rounds as your yarn supply allows.

Mini Keychain Snake: Use fingering weight (#1) yarn and a 1.75 mm hook. Keep the body very short — just 10 to 12 rounds — and attach a small split ring to the tail before closing.

Gifting and Display Ideas

Handmade toys carry a warmth that mass-produced items simply can’t match. This candy stripe snake makes a wonderful gift for so many occasions and people.

For children, it’s a soft, safe toy (with embroidered eyes) that’s the perfect size for little hands to carry around. It’s lightweight, machine washable if you use an acrylic yarn, and cheerful enough to brighten up even a grumpy afternoon.

For adults who love quirky décor, the snake looks fantastic coiled on a bookshelf, draped across a houseplant, or propped on a desk. A rainbow or candy-stripe version adds a pop of color to any room.

For craft fairs and markets, these snakes are popular sellers. Because the body is essentially a long tube of single crochet, you can work while watching television or listening to podcasts, making them genuinely efficient to produce in multiples.

You can also customize with a small gift tag noting the yarn used, care instructions, and a personal message — a finishing touch that elevates any handmade gift.

Caring for Your Finished Snake

Most worsted weight acrylic yarns are machine washable, which makes this toy wonderfully practical. Wash on a gentle cycle in cool water and lay flat to dry to help the snake keep its shape. If you’ve used natural fiber yarn like cotton or wool, hand washing in cool water and gently pressing out excess water before flat drying is the safest approach.

If the polyfill stuffing shifts after washing, give the snake a gentle squeeze and fluff to redistribute it before the toy dries completely.

A Few Words for Beginners

If this is your first or second amigurumi project, please don’t be intimidated by the length of the pattern. Read through the entire thing before you begin, gather all your materials, and take it one round at a time. The stripe color changes might feel a little awkward at first, but after the first two or three repeats, the rhythm becomes completely automatic.

The magic ring is the technique that most beginners find tricky. If you struggle with it, there are many wonderful video tutorials available, or you can substitute a simple chain-2 start: chain 2, work 6 single crochet into the second chain from the hook, and pull the tail gently to tighten. It’s not quite as clean as a magic ring but it works perfectly well.

Remember that your first attempt doesn’t need to be perfect. Amigurumi is wonderfully forgiving because the soft, rounded shapes and bright colors draw the eye away from any slight tension inconsistencies. Your snake will be charming and beloved no matter what.

Share Your Makes

If you crochet this Candy Stripe Snake Amigurumi, I would absolutely love to see how yours turns out! The color combinations people choose never fail to surprise and delight — every snake ends up with its own personality. Feel free to save this pattern, share it with crafty friends, and come back to it whenever you need a quick, satisfying project that delivers maximum color for minimum effort.

Happy crocheting!