How to Crochet a Snake Amigurumi: A Complete Beginner’s Guide

If you’ve been wanting to try amigurumi but felt a little intimidated by complex shapes, a snake is honestly one of the best projects you can start with. No legs to attach, no tiny ears to sew on, no complicated shaping — just a satisfying, continuous tube of crochet that slowly transforms into an adorable little reptile. By the end of this guide, you’ll have a squishy, customizable snake you can keep on your desk, give as a gift, or sell at a craft fair.

Let’s dive in from the very beginning. This tutorial assumes you know the absolute basics — how to hold a hook and yarn — but everything else will be explained along the way.

What Is Amigurumi?

Amigurumi (pronounced ah-mee-goo-ROO-mee) is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and figures. The word comes from the Japanese words “ami” (knitted or crocheted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). The style originated in Japan during the 1980s and became a global crafting phenomenon in the 2000s thanks to the internet.

What makes amigurumi distinct is that the pieces are worked in continuous rounds rather than rows, which gives them that smooth, seamless, three-dimensional look. They’re almost always stuffed with polyfill stuffing and finished with safety eyes to bring them to life. And while they look impressive, many amigurumi projects — including this snake — are surprisingly approachable for beginners.

Why a Snake Is the Perfect First Amigurumi

Most amigurumi animals require you to make multiple separate pieces — a body, a head, four legs, two ears, a tail — and then sew them all together. That assembly process can feel tricky when you’re new. A snake sidesteps almost all of that. The entire body is essentially one long tube, the head is a simple oval, and there are only a couple of small details to add at the end.

This means you get to focus entirely on learning the magic ring, crocheting in continuous rounds, increasing and decreasing — the four or five fundamental techniques that form the backbone of almost every amigurumi you’ll ever make. Once you finish your snake, you’ll have a solid foundation that makes every future project feel much less daunting.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather everything together so you’re not hunting for scissors mid-project.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (also labeled as “4 – Medium” on the skein) is ideal for beginners because it’s thick enough to work with easily but still produces a nicely sized finished toy. Pick a main color for the body and an optional contrasting color for the belly or stripes. You don’t need much — one skein of each color is more than enough.

Crochet Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm hook works well with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. You want a slightly tighter tension than you’d use for a blanket so the stuffing doesn’t show through the stitches.

Safety Eyes: 9mm or 12mm black safety eyes are standard for this size of snake. These have a washer that locks onto the back of the piece, making them very secure. However, if you’re making this for a child under three, skip the safety eyes entirely and embroider the eyes with black yarn instead.

Polyfill Stuffing: Standard polyester fiberfill stuffing is available at any craft store. You’ll use more than you think, so have a good handful ready before you start.

Yarn Needle: Also called a tapestry needle or darning needle. You’ll use this to weave in your yarn ends and sew any pieces together.

Stitch Markers: Optional but very helpful. A simple split-ring stitch marker (or even a small piece of contrasting yarn looped through) helps you keep track of where your rounds begin and end.

Scissors: For cutting yarn.

Wire Armature (Optional): If you want your snake to hold a pose — coiled, rearing up, or draped over something — you can insert a piece of aluminum craft wire before stuffing. This is completely optional and not recommended for toys meant for children.

Understanding the Basic Stitches

If you’re completely new, here’s a quick refresher on the stitches used in this pattern.

Slip Knot: The very first step of any crochet project. Make a loop with your yarn, pull a second loop through it, and place that loop on your hook.

Chain (ch): Yarn over, pull through the loop on your hook. Chains form the foundation of most crochet, though in amigurumi we often skip the foundation chain entirely and start with a magic ring.

Magic Ring (also called Magic Circle): This technique lets you start crocheting in the round with a tight, closed center — no hole in the middle of your work. Wrap the yarn around your fingers to form a loop, insert your hook, pull up a loop of working yarn, chain one, then work your first stitches into the ring. When you’re done, pull the tail end tight to close the center.

Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over again, pull through both loops. This is the workhorse stitch of amigurumi.

Increase (inc): Work two single crochets into the same stitch. This adds a stitch to your round and is how you make a shape wider.

Decrease (dec) / Invisible Decrease: Work a single crochet through the front loops of two consecutive stitches at once. This removes a stitch from your round and is how you close shapes up. The invisible decrease is preferred in amigurumi because it leaves a neater finish — just insert your hook through the front loop of the first stitch and the front loop of the second stitch, then complete the stitch as a normal single crochet.

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. Used to join rounds or finish off work.

The Pattern

This pattern creates a snake approximately 14–16 inches long, which is a great size for display or gifting. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated — meaning you do not join at the end of each round with a slip stitch. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round so you always know where you are.

Abbreviations

sc = single crochet, inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch), dec = invisible decrease, MR = magic ring, sl st = slip stitch, ch = chain, st = stitch, rnd = round

The Head

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)

Rnds 6–10: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — 5 rounds even

At the end of round 10, this is the point where you’ll insert your safety eyes. Place them between rounds 6 and 7, approximately 6 stitches apart. Push the post of each eye through the fabric and secure the washer on the inside. Once the washer is on, the eye cannot be removed, so take your time positioning them before locking them in.

Rnd 11: Sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)

Rnd 12: Sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point. Continue adding stuffing as you close up the piece — this is much easier than trying to stuff after the opening gets too small.

Rnd 13: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)

Rnd 14: Dec around. (6 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue directly into the body.

The Body

The body is where all your continuous-round practice really pays off. This section is worked in a simple tube, optionally with color changes for stripes or pattern.

Rnds 1–60: Sc in each st around. (6 sts per round)

Yes, sixty rounds of six single crochets each. It sounds like a lot, but each round is very quick at only 6 stitches, and you’ll find a rhythm fast. Put on a podcast, a show, or some music and enjoy the process. This is the meditative heart of the project.

If you want stripes, change your yarn color every 5 rounds. To change color cleanly: on the last stitch of the final round in your current color, complete the stitch until you have two loops remaining on the hook, then draw through your new color yarn to finish the stitch. Leave a tail to weave in later. Continue with the new color.

Add stuffing periodically as the tube grows. Don’t wait until the end — it becomes nearly impossible to stuff the bottom of a long tube if you leave it all for later. Every 15 rounds or so, push a small wad of stuffing down into the body.

The Tail

Rnd 61: Sc 4, dec. (5 sts)

Rnd 62: Sc 3, dec. (4 sts)

Rnds 63–68: Sc in each st around. (4 sts) — 6 rounds even

Rnd 69: Sc 2, dec. (3 sts)

Rnds 70–72: Sc in each st around. (3 sts)

Rnd 73: Sc 1, dec. (2 sts)

Rnd 74: Sc around. (2 sts)

Finish off by pulling the yarn tail through both remaining stitches to close the tip of the tail. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and weave it in securely.

The Tongue

Cut two 4-inch lengths of red or pink yarn. Hold them together, fold in half, and use your crochet hook to pull the folded end through the center front of the head at the snout, just below where the head begins to narrow. Pull the loose ends through the loop and tug gently to secure. Trim both ends to equal length and separate the strands slightly to give the forked tongue effect. A tiny dab of fabric glue can help the strands stay separated if you like.

Finishing and Assembly

Once your body is complete, take a moment to check for any gaps in the stuffing — the piece should feel firm and evenly filled without being so tight that the stitches pull apart. Weave in all yarn ends securely using your tapestry needle, running each tail through several stitches in different directions before trimming.

If you changed colors for stripes, you’ll have quite a few ends to weave in. Take your time with this step — loose ends that work their way out are the main thing that separates a polished-looking finished piece from a rough one.

Customization Ideas

One of the most enjoyable parts of amigurumi is making each piece your own. Here are some fun ways to personalize your snake.

Color: Bright greens and yellows are classic, but don’t feel constrained. Pastels, deep jewel tones, variegated yarn that stripes itself automatically — all look wonderful. You can even use two strands of different-colored yarns held together for a heathered effect.

Markings: Use surface slip stitches or embroidery to add diamond back patterns, spots, or racing stripes along the body. A simple backstitch with a contrasting color yarn threaded onto a yarn needle can create all kinds of markings.

Size: Want a tiny desk snake? Use fingering weight yarn with a 2.25mm hook. Want a giant floor snake? Use bulky yarn with a 6mm hook. The pattern scales beautifully in any weight.

Expression: Moving the safety eyes slightly higher or lower on the head changes the whole expression. Eyes placed high and close together look cute and dopey. Eyes placed lower and wider apart look a little more serious and realistic.

Accessories: A tiny crocheted crown, a little bow tie, a miniature party hat — snakes can wear accessories too, and tiny ones are a fun challenge once you’ve got the basics down.

Troubleshooting Common Beginner Mistakes

My stitches are too loose and the stuffing shows through. This usually means your hook is too large for your yarn, or your tension is naturally loose. Try going down one hook size. Amigurumi is worked tighter than typical crochet on purpose.

I lost count of my rounds. This happens to everyone. Start using a stitch marker religiously — put it in the first stitch of every new round without fail. A different colored piece of yarn works just as well as a store-bought marker.

My magic ring won’t close tightly. Make sure you’re pulling the correct tail (the yarn tail, not the working yarn). Pull slowly and firmly. If it still won’t close, try the magic ring technique again — it sometimes takes a few attempts to feel natural.

My decreases look bumpy or uneven. Switch to the invisible decrease if you haven’t already. Standard single crochet decreases leave a little bump on the right side of the fabric; the invisible decrease grabs only the front loops, leaving a much smoother surface.

The head looks lopsided. This is almost always a stuffing issue. Open it back up by carefully undoing a few stitches, adjust the stuffing so it fills all areas evenly, and re-close. A chopstick or pencil is helpful for poking stuffing into tight corners.

Caring for Your Finished Snake

Acrylic yarn — which is what most beginner crafters use — is machine washable, making it a great choice for toys. Turn the finished snake inside a mesh laundry bag and wash on a gentle cold cycle. Lay flat to dry or tumble dry on the lowest heat setting. Avoid high heat, which can cause acrylic fibers to melt or deform.

If you used natural fibers like cotton or wool, hand washing in cool water with a gentle soap is usually the safer bet. Press the water out gently and lay flat to dry.

Sharing Your Work

When you finish your snake, share it! Post a photo on Instagram or Pinterest with tags like #amigurumi, #crochetsnake, or #amigurumibeginners and you’ll quickly find a warm, encouraging community of makers who will genuinely celebrate your work. Crafting communities online are some of the most supportive spaces on the internet, and seeing other people’s versions of the same pattern is endlessly inspiring.

If you’re interested in selling your finished snakes, amigurumi are popular on Etsy, at local craft fairs, and at farmers markets. They make fantastic gifts for birthdays, baby showers, and the holidays.

What to Make Next

After your snake, the amigurumi world is wide open. You now know the magic ring, continuous rounds, increasing, decreasing, and color changing — which is genuinely most of what you need for the vast majority of patterns out there. A simple round ball leads naturally to a cat or teddy bear. A slightly elongated oval body with four stubby legs is a perfect frog or turtle. A cone shape with a face is a carrot or a gnome.

Browse Ravelry, Etsy, or Pinterest for “beginner amigurumi patterns” and you’ll find hundreds of free and paid options at every difficulty level. Many designers offer very detailed, photo-accompanied tutorials that are wonderful for continuing your education.

Final Thoughts

Crocheting a snake amigurumi is one of those projects that looks more impressive than it is to make — and that’s the best kind. A few evenings of relaxed crocheting and you have something genuinely lovely to show for it. The pattern is forgiving, the techniques are foundational, and the finished result is charming every single time.

Take your time with the magic ring at the start, keep that stitch marker moving, stuff as you go, and don’t stress over small imperfections. Handmade things are supposed to look handmade — that’s exactly what makes them special. Now grab your hook, pick your favorite color of yarn, and get started on your very first snake.