How to Crochet a Snake Amigurumi: A Complete Beginner’s Guide
If you’ve been scrolling through crafting communities online and stumbled upon those impossibly cute little crocheted snakes coiled up on people’s desks, you’re probably wondering how on earth they’re made. Good news: snake amigurumi are one of the most beginner-friendly projects you can tackle in the world of amigurumi, which is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and figures. Snakes are long and tubular, which means you won’t be wrestling with complex shaping, limb attachment, or tricky color changes for most of the project. If you can crochet a simple tube, you can crochet a snake.
This guide will walk you through everything — materials, stitches, pattern, assembly, and finishing touches — so that by the end, you’ll have a squishy, charming little reptile you made entirely by hand.
What Is Amigurumi?
Before we dive into the pattern, let’s talk briefly about amigurumi for those who are brand new to the concept. Amigurumi (pronounced ah-mee-goo-roo-mee) originated in Japan and refers to the craft of making small crocheted stuffed toys. The word itself combines the Japanese words for “knitted” and “stuffed doll.” These little figures are typically worked in continuous rounds rather than flat rows, which gives them their smooth, rounded appearance.
What makes amigurumi so appealing for beginners is that most projects use just one stitch — the single crochet — almost exclusively. Once you understand how to work in the round and increase or decrease to shape your piece, a whole world of tiny crocheted creatures opens up to you.
Materials You’ll Need
One of the best things about amigurumi is that it doesn’t require a huge investment to get started. Here’s what you’ll need for your snake:
Yarn: Choose a worsted weight yarn (also labeled as size 4) in whatever colors you like. Snakes can be solid-colored, striped, or even spotted depending on your creativity. A skein or partial skein will be plenty for a small snake. Cotton and acrylic yarn both work well, though acrylic tends to be more forgiving and easier for beginners.
Crochet Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn when crocheting amigurumi. You want to use a hook that is slightly smaller than what the yarn label recommends, because tighter stitches prevent the stuffing from showing through.
Polyester Fiberfill: This is your stuffing. A small bag from any craft store will last you through many projects.
Safety Eyes: These are plastic eyes with a washer that clips on the back to secure them. For a small snake, 9mm to 12mm safety eyes work beautifully. If you’re making this snake for a child under three years old, skip the safety eyes and embroider the eyes instead, since safety eyes are a choking hazard.
Yarn Needle: Also called a tapestry needle or darning needle. You’ll use this to weave in your ends and sew pieces together.
Stitch Marker: A small clip or even a piece of scrap yarn to mark the beginning of your rounds. This keeps you from losing your place.
Scissors
Optional: A small piece of red or pink felt or yarn for the tongue.
Stitches and Abbreviations You’ll Use
If you’re brand new to crochet, here’s a quick reference for the stitches and terms used in this pattern:
Magic Ring (MR): Also called a magic circle or adjustable ring. This is how most amigurumi pieces start. It lets you close up the beginning of your round tightly so there’s no hole in the center. There are great video tutorials available online if you’re learning this for the first time — it clicks quickly once you see it demonstrated.
Chain (ch): The most basic crochet stitch, used to start a project or create space.
Single Crochet (sc): The main stitch used in amigurumi. Insert your hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops.
Increase (inc): Two single crochets in the same stitch. This adds a stitch and makes your piece wider.
Decrease (dec): Crocheting two stitches together as one. This removes a stitch and makes your piece narrower. In amigurumi, the invisible decrease (also called the slip decrease or front-loop decrease) gives a neater result and is worth looking up if you haven’t used it before.
Slip Stitch (sl st): A stitch used to join rounds or move yarn across stitches without adding height.
BLO: Back Loop Only. Working through only the back loop of a stitch to create a ridge or a directional change.
Round (Rnd): One complete circle of stitches. In amigurumi, you work in a continuous spiral, meaning you don’t join and start a new round — you just keep going. This is where your stitch marker comes in.
Understanding the Pattern Format
Patterns are written in a shorthand that looks intimidating at first but becomes second nature very quickly. Here’s how to read the format used in this guide:
“sc 6” means single crochet six times (into six separate stitches).
“inc” means one increase (two single crochets into one stitch).
“(sc 2, inc) x 4” means repeat the sequence in the brackets four times.
The number in brackets at the end of a round — like [12] — tells you the total number of stitches you should have after completing that round. Always count your stitches at the end of each round to make sure you’re on track.
The Snake Amigurumi Pattern
This pattern creates a snake that measures roughly 12 to 14 inches long, depending on your tension and yarn weight. You can easily make it longer by adding more rounds to the body section.
Part One: The Head
Start with your main body color.
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, sc 6 into the ring. Pull the ring closed. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each stitch around. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) x 6. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) x 6. [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) x 6. [30]
Rnd 6–10: Sc in each stitch around (5 rounds of 30 stitches). [30]
At this point, stop and insert your safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8, spacing them about 8 to 10 stitches apart. Secure the washers on the inside. Now is also the time to attach your tongue if you’re using one — you can slip a small piece of red yarn through a stitch on the front of the head and tie it, trimming it into a forked shape once assembled, or you can cut a tiny forked piece of felt and sew it on at the end.
Rnd 11: (Sc 3, dec) x 6. [24]
Rnd 12: (Sc 2, dec) x 6. [18]
Begin stuffing the head firmly. Continue to add stuffing as you go; it’s easier to stuff in stages than to try to cram it all in at the end.
Rnd 13: (Sc 1, dec) x 6. [12]
Rnd 14: (Sc 1, dec) x 4. [8]
Don’t close off yet. Transition into the body.
Part Two: The Body
Continue from the 8 stitches you have at the end of the head. The body is a long tube that you’ll work in a continuous spiral, stuffing as you go.
Rnd 15–20: Sc in each stitch around. [8] (6 rounds)
Rnd 21: (Sc 1, inc) x 4. [12] — This slight increase helps the body look proportional coming out of the head.
Rnd 22–50: Sc in each stitch around. [12] (29 rounds)
You now have a nice long tube forming. Keep stuffing as you go — stuffing in small amounts every several rounds is much easier than waiting until the end. You want the body to be firm but not stretched to the point that the stitches pull apart.
Rnd 51: (Sc 2, dec) x 3. [9]
Rnd 52–60: Sc in each stitch around. [9] (9 rounds)
Rnd 61: (Sc 1, dec) x 3. [6]
Rnd 62–70: Sc in each stitch around. [6] (9 rounds) — The tail tapers here, giving your snake that lovely pointed end.
Rnd 71: Dec x 3. [3]
Slip stitch to close. Fasten off and leave a short tail. Use your yarn needle to pull the remaining stitches together to close the tip of the tail, then weave in the end.
Finishing Your Snake
Now that your snake is fully crocheted and stuffed, there are a few finishing steps that really bring the whole thing to life.
Weave in all ends using your yarn needle. Tuck them inside the body so they’re completely hidden.
Shape the tongue if you haven’t already. Cut a small piece of red or pink yarn about two inches long, fold it in half, and use your yarn needle to pull the folded loop through a stitch at the tip of the snout. Pass the two loose ends through the loop and pull gently to secure. Trim the ends to your desired length, then carefully cut a small notch between them to create the forked effect. Alternatively, cut a tiny forked shape from felt and stitch it in place.
Coil and pose your snake. One of the most satisfying parts of making a snake amigurumi is arranging it into a coil. Because the body is fully stuffed and flexible, you can curl it into a spiral or an S-shape and it will hold its position quite well. Some crafters add a few hidden stitches to hold the coil in place permanently — simply use your yarn needle and a short length of matching yarn to tack the coils together where they overlap.
Tips for Making Your Amigurumi Look Its Best
Keep your tension consistent. Tight, even stitches make for a much neater finished piece. If your stitches are loose and you can see the stuffing through the fabric, try a smaller hook size.
Always stuff firmly. Understuffed amigurumi look limp and sad. Don’t be shy with the fiberfill — you want the finished piece to feel solid and hold its shape.
Count your stitches at the end of every round. This sounds tedious, but catching a mistake early saves you from having to rip back (called “frogging” in the crochet world) several rounds of work.
Use a stitch marker religiously. Losing your place in a spiral is incredibly easy, especially when you’re new to working in the round. Moving your marker at the start of every round takes two seconds and saves enormous frustration.
Practice your magic ring before starting. If you’ve never done a magic ring before, practice it a few times on scrap yarn until it feels natural. Once you’ve got it, you’ll use it in nearly every amigurumi you ever make.
Don’t rush the head. The head is the most visible, expressive part of your snake. Take your time with shaping, placement of the eyes, and the tongue attachment. Small adjustments in eye spacing can completely change your snake’s personality.
Color Variations and Customization Ideas
Once you’ve got the basic pattern down, the real fun begins — customizing your snake to make it unique. Here are some ideas to inspire you:
Striped snake: Simply switch yarn colors every two to four rounds throughout the body. Cut and tie off each color as you go, or carry the unused yarn inside the body to avoid weaving in too many ends.
Spotted snake: Use surface slip stitches or embroidery to add spots after your snake is complete.
Rainbow snake: Change colors every few rounds using the full spectrum for a vibrant, playful look.
Realistic colorways: If you want a snake that looks more like a real species — think a corn snake’s orange and red patterning or the bold red, black, and yellow of a milk snake — do a quick image search for reference and plan your color changes accordingly.
Tiny hats and accessories: The amigurumi community is endlessly creative, and tiny crocheted hats, glasses, and bow ties are just a few of the accessories people make for their creatures. A small witch hat makes for an adorable Halloween snake; a tiny cowboy hat gives serious charm.
How to Care for Your Finished Snake
Amigurumi made with acrylic yarn are generally machine washable on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag, though it’s always a good idea to check the yarn label. Lay flat to dry rather than placing in a dryer, which can cause the fiberfill to clump. Cotton yarn amigurumi should also be washed gently and laid flat to dry.
If your snake accumulates dust over time — they do love sitting on shelves — you can refresh it with a light spray of fabric refresher or give it a quick hand wash.
Using Your Snake as a Gift or Display Piece
Snake amigurumi make wonderful gifts for reptile enthusiasts, nature lovers, and anyone who appreciates handmade things. They’re also popular as desk companions, photography props, and even fidget toys for people who like having something to hold while thinking. Because they’re small and lightweight, they tuck easily into gift bags or even envelopes with a padded mailer.
If you’re considering selling your finished snakes, always check the licensing terms on any pattern you’ve used, and note that handmade items generally command fair prices when you factor in the time and materials involved — don’t undersell your work.
You’ve Got This
Making your first snake amigurumi is genuinely one of the most satisfying beginner crochet experiences out there. The project teaches you all the fundamental skills — magic ring, working in the round, increasing, decreasing, stuffing, and finishing — without overwhelming you with complex construction. And at the end, you have something genuinely delightful to show for your time.
Once you’ve made one snake, you’ll find yourself wanting to make a whole family of them. Maybe a tiny garden snake next to a crocheted mushroom, or a large python coiled dramatically on your bookshelf. The pattern scales easily with different yarn weights and hook sizes — use bulky yarn for a chunky, huggable snake or fingering weight yarn for a delicate little miniature.
So grab your hook, pick out your favorite colors, and get started. Your first amigurumi snake is waiting to be brought to life — and it’s a lot easier than it looks.
